Minnie 2529RG travel trailer - Page 12

No1Hunter · 10-07-2022, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IOS 3

Hi - Here is a picture of how ours is placed. We have a June 2022 build. Thx.

Looks like they didn't place yours according to the drawing either. Notice it is over and more forward than mine. I can hear it now:

Hey Joe, here is the solar panel. Can't you mount it while you are up there"

"Sure. Where does it go Fred?"

"Ah, just stick it anywhere! Just make sure the shiny side is facing up."

IOS 3 · 10-13-2022, 05:24 PM

FYI - I pulled the upper and lower mounting brackets on our 12V fridge in the 2529RG. Was chasing another issue but discovered the threaded feet at the front of the fridge weren't touching the ground. As a result the fridge was "hanging" from the upper retaining bracket. Additionally, the lower hinge for the main compartment door on the fridge needs the foot to be in contact with the floor or the hinge assembly will flex. Simple fix but annoying. Again, this is just an FYI.

Marine359 · 10-13-2022, 05:49 PM

My fridge fell out completely. This is because Winnebago threw the 12v fridge into the same cabinet surround they used for the absorption fidget. The only thing really holding the fridge in the cabinet was two small tapping screws into the top of the fridge through the top bracket. Those screws work themselves loose with vibration and shock. Of course, They claim no responsibility, and will tell you they install the 12v fridge to Dometic spec, but there’s just too much unsupported open space between the back of the fridge and the sidewall. My solution was to install braces on the sidewall, so the fridge is supported in the rear, yet still gets air circulation. Winnebago agreed to pay for my cost of materials for the fix. Screwed multiple metal tapping screws through top bracket into fridge. A couple of 1x1s across the back wrapped with insulating foam keeps the fridge from falling back and breaking the bracket bond.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-13-2022, 05:55 PM

Thanks, suggest everyone check. I noticed our refrigerator had deformed the bracket on the bottom face. I was not sure why. We are going to reverse the refer door swing, so I thought I would figure out the problem and straighten the bracket when I change the door swing. We're in the shop for some warranty work, so the refer will be on the top of the list when we pick up the trailer. Remembering, more every day, why we always bought used!

Marine359 · 10-13-2022, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwoFrom93449

Thanks, suggest everyone check. I noticed our refrigerator had deformed the bracket on the bottom face. I was not sure why. We are going to reverse the refer door swing, so I thought I would figure out the problem and straighten the bracket when I change the door swing. We're in the shop for some warranty work, so the refer will be on the top of the list when we pick up the trailer. Remembering, more every day, why we always bought used!

The bottom bracket is deforming because the weight of the fridge is shifting forward. Shortly, the top bracket screws will fail. Suggest removing fridge from cabinet surround and installing a secure fix. It doesn’t take much time. The only owners who find out about this problem are those that boondock using FS roads, or terrible road surfaces on local interstates and state roads.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-13-2022, 06:36 PM

The rough roads would probably include us, our trip back from AR to CA was over some very rugged roads.

No1Hunter · 10-13-2022, 07:01 PM

Heading down to the dealership today to get some warranty items taken care of before the warranty expires. Probably won't see her again for a couple of months.

IOS 3 · 10-13-2022, 07:23 PM

Marine 359 - I did something similar on the sides using pipe wrap as you did. Once I leveled the fridge and put the weight on the feet in the front (just needed to unscrew them a bit) and the foot-bar in the rear, I was able to get the fridge to sit properly in the cabinet opening. Then the upper and lower brackets were no longer under stress. It did require me to redrill the upper and lower brackets into the cabinet face as the alignment was completely different once the stress was relieved. Now the brackets are just preventing movement when towing rather than bearing the weight of the fridge.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-13-2022, 09:19 PM

We are trying to get some warranty issues addressed at a non-WB facility (because the WB dealers near us have a terrible reputation for service). I have documented the issues to WB Customer Service with pictures, firm doing work sent an estimate, and discussed issue with WB Rep by phone and email. I thought we were ready to get the work going, but today I was told that our case had been referred to "WB Management" for review!?!? Has anyone else experienced this?

Marine359 · 10-14-2022, 10:56 AM

Yes, exactly what happened to me. Two weeks later they emailed me to say that the fridge falling out was not covered by warranty. Maybe you’ll have better luck. But it’s a fairly easy fix, so if you have to DYI it, takes a couple of hours, and you’ll need a helper to pull the fridge.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-14-2022, 05:14 PM

Did you change the swing on your refer door?

Marine359 · 10-14-2022, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwoFrom93449

Did you change the swing on your refer door?

No I did not change the door swing. Hinge remained on the right. Leveled the fridge with plastic shims. But the important part is that the rear of the fridge now contacts the foam protected cross-members, so there’s no wiggle room when you screw the brackets back in.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-14-2022, 05:41 PM

Sorry, did not notice that your trailer isn't a 2529RG with the refer right up against the door frame.

TwoFrom93449 · 10-19-2022, 12:39 PM

Anyone moved the spare under the trailer?

TwoFrom93449 · 11-01-2022, 05:36 PM

Anyone using the black King antenna on the roof of the 2529RG? From what I can find online, it appears to be either a HDTV antenna or a wireless antenna. Not sure we will ever buy the additional King gear to make it functional, so thinking about a slight modification to route our satelite cable in through the antenna. I hate to do anything to the roof that might void the warranty.

mrlichty · 11-25-2022, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrlichty

Hello all,
So continuing on the drama of the trailer length and weight.

The trailer is listed as 28'7 but is actually 29'6 - no doubt about that.

We had quite a time between General RV and Winnebago to finally get it weighed. They had the trailer there for 5 weeks for repairs and although I asked both them and Winnebago about getting it weighed from the day I dropped it off they didn't do it. General RV said they were too busy. I picked up the trailer then later ended up driving the trailer back and meeting with the Winnebago rep in person.
So the official weigh in was finally done and the trailer is tagged and on my title as being 5968 but it is 6460 lbs 492 lbs over the dry weight. That is over 8% more than they have it listed as.
The biggest negative is that when looking at my towing capacity which is 7660 that leaves me only 1200 lbs.

My final update on this - Today we have closure on this situation. Per agreement - Consumer is free to state that Consumer reached an agreement with Winnebago that resolved any issues between them.

Thank you to everyone who gave opinions on this issue as well as all the information given for my questions about solar. Your knowledge was greatly appreciated and I will use it moving forward as we continue our camping and travel plans.

TwoFrom93449 · 11-25-2022, 09:06 PM

Congratulations Mark! Please post interesting units from your new search!

TwoFrom93449 · 11-25-2022, 09:13 PM

Our bath grey water valve doesn't close. I guess it must be cable operated?? I am thinking about adding a gate valve on the run below the belly liner before it turns to the exit. May do the same for the black tank. Are the stock valves part of the tanks? Would like to eliminate them.

IOS 3 · 11-26-2022, 07:28 AM

Yes, all 3 valves on the 2529RG are cable operated. The valves are not part of the tank. They are located on the drainpipe after it exits the tank. If you want to cut the valve out, you will need to replace with a union, and it will require opening the underbelly liner. Your other option is to leave the valves open and add valves downstream as you suggest. Others have done that. That moves your valves outside "freeze protection" from the enclosed underbelly. Depending on where you live that may not matter.

Others have opened the underbelly and discovered the cable was routed poorly. If your problem is friction in the cable itself, then lubrication and better routing may solve your problem. It also helps (I've read) to reinforce the cable along its route (attach guides in a few places) to prevent it from fighting you when operating it. Think bicycle brake cable or shift cable....

Lastly, if you are leaving your gray tank valves open when hooked up, you may be getting sediment in the gap the blade needs to slide into when closed. This will prevent the valve from sealing properly. This, apparently, is a common problem. I have not experienced it, but my valves are closed at all times unless dumping the tanks. So, I have no first-hand experience.

Good luck and let us know what you do. Pictures where practical!! Thanks!!

TwoFrom93449 · 01-09-2023, 09:14 PM

I decided to test the GFI Breaker (we've always had GFI plugs) using the button on our plug tester. Shut the circuit down as I expected, but how do you reset? I expected the breaker labeled GFI to be flipped, but it wasn't. That breaker looks just like the other 15 amp breakers, is that right? Checked Owners Manual, worthless again. Did my test blow the breaker?? Where would we be without this forum?!?!