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Old 01-09-2023, 09:49 PM   #241
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It's not the breaker, switched with another 15 amp and it's fine. What I see online as a GFI Breaker is not what I have, no reset button. I think WB just have me a regular 15 amp breaker. I hope the GFI test didn't screw something else up. I can't get the GFI circuit to come back to life with the swapped breaker either.
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Old 01-09-2023, 10:08 PM   #242
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I decided to test the GFI Breaker (we've always had GFI plugs) using the button on our plug tester. Shut the circuit down as I expected, but how do you reset? I expected the breaker labeled GFI to be flipped, but it wasn't. That breaker looks just like the other 15 amp breakers, is that right? Checked Owners Manual, worthless again. Did my test blow the breaker?? Where would we be without this forum?!?!
I don't have a GFI breaker in my power center. I believe that breaker powers the GFI outlets, which are all on the same circuit.
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Old 01-09-2023, 11:35 PM   #243
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How is the GFI function provided with just a regular breaker? A GFI Breaker online has a reset button. Any idea what problem I caused by hitting the GFI Test on my plug tester?
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Old 01-10-2023, 04:55 AM   #244
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The first outlet in that circuit is probably a GFCI outlet which would then protect all the outlets in that circuit. The GFCI outlet in that circuit will have a test and reset button on its face. It should look similar to this outlet.
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Old 01-10-2023, 07:07 AM   #245
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I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. If you tripped the GFI, you should be able to reset it at the plug itself - the one that has the GFI breaker integrated into the plug. Is that not letting you reset it?
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Old 01-10-2023, 07:31 AM   #246
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Sorry, my fault! Finally looked real close at the bathroom plug, and it is a GFI. The black plugs are tough for my old eyes! When I started looking it said often a GFI Breaker will be used to allow regular plugs. Thought this might have been a WB money saver. I know about only the first plug needing to be GFI, and had looked at outdoor, bath, and kitchen plugs just missed seeing the one in bath.
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Old 01-13-2023, 01:29 PM   #247
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I don’t think it’s a money saver. It’s a good idea to have a gfci where water and electricity might meet. That would be the bathroom, and entryway
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Old 01-14-2023, 09:24 AM   #248
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I don’t think it’s a money saver. It’s a good idea to have a gfci where water and electricity might meet. That would be the bathroom, and entryway
More than a good idea… it’s required by electrical code.
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Old 01-14-2023, 10:52 PM   #249
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We are thinking about adding a tv in the bedroom. Could someone that has that option please post a picture where the bracket is mounted, and possibly who supplied the bracket.
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Old 01-15-2023, 05:34 PM   #250
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As for tv mounting brackets, Winnebago has their own metal shop and they pride themselves in building… make that overbuilding… custom metal brackets. Because, why buy an off the shelf Part when you can design and build and stock one in-house?

Once you find the blocking in the wall, assuming it’s a stock location that has built in bracing, you just need to buy a standard VESA TV mount to go with your TV.

My RV has a huge metal plate holding the bedroom TV. Removing the TV was unnecessarily difficult. I left the plate installed but put VESA mount on the plate to hang the TV from. Now I can remove the TV without difficulty.

I bring all of this up to encourage you to not be too concerned about the mount, but do be concerned about finding real blocking in the wall, if there is any. Most walls are hollow except for places the factory knows will be used to hang things like TVs, etc.

There are lots of TV mounts, for smaller bedroom TV a small mount like this works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics.../dp/B09JWS2NVJ
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Old 01-15-2023, 10:36 PM   #251
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Would like to see how WB handled the bracket or fixed mounting for the BR TV. The trim board that hides the BR sliding door track is about 4" tall and about 3" in front of the wall where the tv bracket would hang.
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Old 03-24-2023, 11:07 AM   #252
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Getting wire from front storage compartment to battery box??

I am adding a Renogy electric monitor, and would like to put it in the storage compartment next to the solar controller. I would appreciate information on getting a wire from the storage compartment under the floor and out to the battery box, where the shunt will be located. Would it be possible to fish the wire through the space between the plastic diamond plate on the front and the storage compartment wall panel?
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Old 03-24-2023, 11:22 AM   #253
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I am adding a Renogy electric monitor, and would like to put it in the storage compartment next to the solar controller. I would appreciate information on getting a wire from the storage compartment under the floor and out to the battery box, where the shunt will be located. Would it be possible to fish the wire through the space between the plastic diamond plate on the front and the storage compartment wall panel?
You should be able to shove a couple of wires down the loom that goes to the battery disconnect switch. Then run the wires under the floor up to the battery compartment.
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Old 03-24-2023, 11:32 AM   #254
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That would be a good location for the battery monitor also. I'll take that switch off and give it a try. Thank you!!
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Old 03-24-2023, 12:01 PM   #255
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What type of "Renogy electric monitor" are you adding?
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Old 03-24-2023, 12:05 PM   #256
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Isn't this a lovely mess behind the converter/power center!!
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Old 03-24-2023, 01:48 PM   #257
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Before you cut or drill into the floor. Know where your heat duct goes.
Mine I have a heat duct in the rear of the trailer, and one in the front of the trailer. The duct traveled the center line of the trailer. Don’t make the mistake I did in drilling into this. I’m sure since my heater is on the side of the trailer there is a duct coming from the side as well.
If you’re under the trailer, you have the corrugated plastic. Above that is pretty much nothing except maybe hoses, wires you need to be mindful of.
However, I ran my battery monitor from my storage under the bed, to the wall with the stock monitoring for the trailer.
For me, I. Was able to use a hole I drilled to go under the floor, back to an opening WB made to bring the electric in behind that wall.
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Old 03-24-2023, 03:04 PM   #258
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Our underbelly is off now and being replace under warranty (was cut by tech at dealer before we purchased trying to solve noisy slide, that was a lubrication issue!), so that is why I want to get the wire run. I need to take some better pictures before they replace the underbelly so I can remember what is in that space. Took some pics with my phone, but they are terrible. Tough given the low light and limited space. Did you have to take underbelly off to do your wire? I am having them put our new underbelly on in three pieces so it will not be such a huge chore to get to the area below the floor.
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Old 03-24-2023, 03:37 PM   #259
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Our underbelly is off now and being replace under warranty (was cut by tech at dealer before we purchased trying to solve noisy slide, that was a lubrication issue!), so that is why I want to get the wire run. I need to take some better pictures before they replace the underbelly so I can remember what is in that space. Took some pics with my phone, but they are terrible. Tough given the low light and limited space. Did you have to take underbelly off to do your wire? I am having them put our new underbelly on in three pieces so it will not be such a huge chore to get to the area below the floor.
No, it would be a pain the rear to drop the under belly to get certain things done.
I cut three sided drop access’s, so that it drops down against the wind if driving forward. (Call me reckless.)
Then I tape up the three sides using this tape, has held them close fine for the past year

Huber ZIP System Flashing Tape |... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVQDY5M...p_mob_ap_share

I have several cut in areas where I have done work. Next job is replacing front gray tank dump release
Since I bent the pull rod. That requires larger access.

But, those panels allow me to see where I need to get to for other jobs which require my attention. Just keep tape on hand during trips just in case.
Eventually, I want to use the tape to seal up the edges of the underbelly, to decrease cold air coming in to trailer when it’s cold and windy.
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Old 03-24-2023, 03:47 PM   #260
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Just get a wire pull, if you don’t want to make multiple access panels to assist you in basically throwing the wire to the next one.

However, the black material you’ll see just under the floor, is an insulating foil. Very thin, push up on it to see if there feels to be anything possibly important there. There is a gap above that as well. You can use that tape on that as well.

Plan your drill holes carefully, but find the access holes already there first so you can see where you don’t have to do anything.
Where your fuse panel is is a good start as there is big hole there already to see what I mean. All the wire come in through there to the fuse panel.
You will more than likely have one under your shower where the water lines come in.
I have an outdoor cook area, where water and propane come in, that’s what I used to get behind and into my entry wall.
Open any and all access panels inside the RV to see what’s there before you start cutting and drilling
Remove bottom drawers as well. You’ll find em.

All this can be done laying on a creeper
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