For all Intents and purposes

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by charlescho

Last year, I found wiring schematics for the 26M (for an entirely different issue). Can someone guide me again how to go about getting those schematics?

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...s-and-diagrams

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by charlescho

Here is what I troubleshooted so far:

Condition of RV while attempting to move slides out:
Ignition on, engine running, e-brake applied, coach is in perfect level condition, bunk lock-key activated

1. Checked 30amp self resetting fuses in batt compartment
2) checked fuses under the steering wheel
3) verified bunk lock-key was working
4) saw no fault codes on the slide control boxes
5) disconnected 12v switch for 30 seconds per the instruction manual to reset the slide control boxes
6) even drove the Winnie for a couple minutes hoping to re-jiggle what was upsetting her
7) checked all the Ford fuses in the engine compartment

So here is what I’m thinking currently..... it is odd the bunk and slide all aren’t working. That tells me there is a low chance that all 3 decided to fail at the same time. Also interesting that all 3 items require the e-brake to be engaged. So I’m thinking that the sensor that tells the slides/bunk that the brake is set has failed. In fact the slide control boxes have e-brake status inputs. So I’m guessing I need to look there, but I don’t know where that would be.

Last year, I found wiring schematics for the 26M (for an entirely different issue). Can someone guide me again how to go about getting those schematics?

That break indicator switch is usually associated close to the brake lever itself. I did asked if the RED break DASH light comes on when the break is engaged??? Also, I would exercise the break a few times.

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

That break indicator switch is usually associated close to the brake lever itself. I did asked if the RED break DASH light comes on when the break is engaged??? Also, I would exercise the break a few times.

The red brake light comes on the dash when the e-brake is applied. Also, the self leveling jacks work just fine, which is interlocked with the e-brake. So I’m guessing the ebrake switch is actually working fine.

My guess is that somewhere further down the line, the ebrake signal wire going to the slide out control board is broken? But then again, the slide out control boards do not indicate any faults.

Of course, this is the one trip that I did not pack a multimeter.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by charlescho

The red brake light comes on the dash when the e-brake is applied. Also, the self leveling jacks work just fine, which is interlocked with the e-brake. So I’m guessing the ebrake switch is actually working fine.

My guess is that somewhere further down the line, the ebrake signal wire going to the slide out control board is broken? But then again, the slide out control boards do not indicate any faults.

Of course, this is the one trip that I did not pack a multimeter.

I buy those cheap harbor freight meters and have them stashed everywhere. May even be one under my pillow.

If you feel comfortable removing the control panel, do that and look for a wire that may have came off. Check all the lug connections tugging on each one very lightly.

I'm assuming a lot here as maybe you have done that already and that there's lugs. Maybe block connections. Don't remember.

Haven't found yet where winnebago is storing their 26m diagrams. Apparently they moved them.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by charlescho

The red brake light comes on the dash when the e-brake is applied. Also, the self leveling jacks work just fine, which is interlocked with the e-brake. So I’m guessing the ebrake switch is actually working fine.

My guess is that somewhere further down the line, the ebrake signal wire going to the slide out control board is broken? But then again, the slide out control boards do not indicate any faults.

Of course, this is the one trip that I did not pack a multimeter.

How's Mr. Troubleshooter doing today?
BTW

Here is a link on the wiring:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File.../000043015.pdf

Found the link off of here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File..._v26m_wire.htm

[Twpinaz]

I had the same failure the second big trip out on our way to WDW. Parking brake set. The levelers worked fine, but bed and slide didn’t work. While traveling through Texas. Went to a Camping World in Houston and they took pity on us to troubleshoot and fix it that day. I know not a typical occurrence and was on a Memorial Day weekend. Troubleshot to the brake interlock was not working. They had to rerun the wiring to fix it. For slides and bunk to work it must recognize the brake is engaged. Fortunately we were in the first yr of warranty coverage.
Same trip blew out hydraulic line and had to listen to the ding ding of the leveler alarm for about 8 hrs of driving. Happened on a Sunday and middle of no where. Made it home and then had it repaired.
Hopefully you are able to trace it and it is only the fuse.

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

How's Mr. Troubleshooter doing today?
BTW

Here is a link on the wiring:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File.../000043015.pdf

Found the link off of here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File..._v26m_wire.htm

Thanks K9AEG and Creativepart for the link.

I found one more symptom today. I turned on the ignition and the steps did not retract.

There seems to be one common factor between the 2 slides, bunk bed, and steps not auto retrieving. They are not getting the signal that tells them the ignition is on.

So I guess that’s what needs addressing. Problem is.... how do I do that?? Any ideas?

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by Twpinaz

I had the same failure the second big trip out on our way to WDW. Parking brake set. The levelers worked fine, but bed and slide didn’t work. While traveling through Texas. Went to a Camping World in Houston and they took pity on us to troubleshoot and fix it that day. I know not a typical occurrence and was on a Memorial Day weekend. Troubleshot to the brake interlock was not working. They had to rerun the wiring to fix it. For slides and bunk to work it must recognize the brake is engaged. Fortunately we were in the first yr of warranty coverage.
Same trip blew out hydraulic line and had to listen to the ding ding of the leveler alarm for about 8 hrs of driving. Happened on a Sunday and middle of no where. Made it home and then had it repaired.
Hopefully you are able to trace it and it is only the fuse.

Whoa. You wouldn’t happen to know how they repaired it, would you?

[charlescho]

Bunk/slides/steps all work now!!!

I feel foolish letting you know what the fix was. I had a blown 10A fuse under the steering wheel. Location 38.

[Twpinaz]

Glad you discovered it was a blown fuse. Good to know if that problem arises again for any of us.
Not sure how CW fixed the problem, but remember them running wire behind the center console. Remember the tech quickly identifying the brake interlock using a multimeter.

[Twpinaz]

Has anyone modified the jack knife sofa by adding leg extension with plywood base to put a full size air mattress on it? Occasionally all my kids want to travel with us and spend a couple of nights and the jack Knife sofa is too small. I need a temporary solution for the occasional night or two. Don’t use the dinette as a bed as it is even smaller. Only one family member can handle the drop down bed due to the low ceiling/clearance.

[K9AEG]

Well, glad you found it and got it working again. Yep I overlooked many things in my life. Most of the time one has to realize it maybe just something Simple. Many times I go from step 1 to step 2 without looking close enough at step 1!

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Well, glad you found it and got it working again. Yep I overlooked many things in my life. Most of the time one has to realize it maybe just something Simple. Many times I go from step 1 to step 2 without looking close enough at step 1!

Spoke too soon. The blown fuse was not the problem, and actually another symptom.

On the drive back home, we dry camped at a Walmart and lowered the bunk successfully, and the slides were kept in. Steps worked fine also.

Next morning (today), we take off and my son notices that the step has not retracted.

The fuse had blown again!

After driving 10 hours, we made it home a couple of hours ago.

I put in another fuse, and it just pops right away now.

I grab one of my thousands of multimeters from my garage and dig around the battery bay. I notice a faint buzzing sound from below the steps. I'm now suspecting something wrong with the steps (wiring, or controller?). I disconnected the 3 power supply wires to the steps (ignition 12v, step power 12v, step board 12v). I put in another fuse and it pops again. I don't have time for a while to work on the problem. I'm back to "real life" so I'll look into it in a couple of months. In the meantime, I'd appreciate some suggestions or if anyone has had issues with a fuse that keeps popping that's related to the bunk/slides/and steps.

Thanks!

Edit:

Also, the house batteries are at 12.08V. Really strange because the alternator should've been charging that the whole 10 hour drive today. (I thought it was weird that the inverter beeped a few times during the drive.). So my sole assumption for now is the steps. I'm guessing a wire is pinched or something is stuck in the mechanism and drawing current? Not sure. Just something running through my head right now. Just throwing that out there for an FYI.

[K9AEG]

Originally Posted by charlescho

Spoke too soon. The blown fuse was not the problem, and actually another symptom.

On the drive back home, we dry camped at a Walmart and lowered the bunk successfully, and the slides were kept in. Steps worked fine also.

Next morning (today), we take off and my son notices that the step has not retracted.

The fuse had blown again!

After driving 10 hours, we made it home a couple of hours ago.

I put in another fuse, and it just pops right away now.

I grab one of my thousands of multimeters from my garage and dig around the battery bay. I notice a faint buzzing sound from below the steps. I'm now suspecting something wrong with the steps (wiring, or controller?). I disconnected the 3 power supply wires to the steps (ignition 12v, step power 12v, step board 12v). I put in another fuse and it pops again. I don't have time for a while to work on the problem. I'm back to "real life" so I'll look into it in a couple of months. In the meantime, I'd appreciate some suggestions or if anyone has had issues with a fuse that keeps popping that's related to the bunk/slides/and steps.

Thanks!

Edit:

Also, the house batteries are at 12.08V. Really strange because the alternator should've been charging that the whole 10 hour drive today. (I thought it was weird that the inverter beeped a few times during the drive.). So my sole assumption for now is the steps. I'm guessing a wire is pinched or something is stuck in the mechanism and drawing current? Not sure. Just something running through my head right now. Just throwing that out there for an FYI.

Thinking yes that fuse blew for a reason as most do. So yeah sm ohmmeter on the fuse circuit should tell you when you found the problem using Ohms Law and knowing you shouldn't be pulling 10 amps through that circuit if u want the 10 amp fuse to hold. So saying tha , ohms law states Resistance R=Voltage E /amps I then 12 volts/10 amps, would equal 1.2 ohms. So your circuit should maybe be somewhat less than 1.2 ohms maybe closer to 4 ohms under normal conditions. (Thinking properly engeneered circuit should be something like that, ) Hopefully you will find it soon.

[RedQueenBWG]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

I'm a little softy when it comes to new RV's. I've had RV's since one week after Columbus arrived!

So when you show me pictures it just makes my day as my heart is so softened by them.

Saying all that, 1st of all.... Good choice as I looked at the floor plan. I like an RV that "With" the slides in, it is still functionable, as our 26M's are. So I seen yep with the slides in on can still use the lavatory. BUT, you have not ONE but TWO lavatories. Whatever side you sleep on, you do not have to climb over the other!. This is the 1st class A GAS with 2 lavatories that I have seen.

2nd.. even thought I was trying to get our RV dealer to change out the "Residential" refrig before I bought it, (And they could not because they are a dealer for Winnie, and that would void the warrantee") I bought it as it was. I like and maybe have to say LOVE the residential refrig. With proper solar panels and batteries, it's not a dry-camping problem. I see yours is a real Samsung unit.... Great.

I think the new Ford V8 Godzilla engine is a winner. It's young yet, but fashioned after the V10. Hopefully it's as good.

Thanks for your updated future.... Enjoy your new rig, Blessings

Thank you for all the well wishes! We finally took delivery today. The punch list of things the dealer needed to do was long. We were as thorough as we could be. We ended up getting the sumos put on too. I haven’t driven her yet but I will soon! Lol and I gotta say, she’s so pretty inside, I’m just beside myself.

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by RedQueenBWG

Thank you for all the well wishes! We finally took delivery today. The punch list of things the dealer needed to do was long. We were as thorough as we could be. We ended up getting the sumos put on too. I haven’t driven her yet but I will soon! Lol and I gotta say, she’s so pretty inside, I’m just beside myself.

You bought a new rig, or the 31p in your signature line?

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by RedQueenBWG

Thank you for all the well wishes! We finally took delivery today.

Congrats on the new Fleetwood Bounder 35K.

When we were shopping in 2017 the 35K and an Open Road 34A were on my list along with the Adventurer I ended up buying.

I spent a lot of time reading on the Fleetwood forum on IRV2 getting caught up on current issues. Manly because it was my wife's favorite and it looked like the RV we were going to be getting.

Perhaps the issues from back then are long gone now - the one that stands out in my memory was issues with the Vacu-Flush toilet. It seemed everyone had problems with the pump and the "duckbill'.

Best of luck to you!

[charlescho]

Originally Posted by K9AEG

Thinking yes that fuse blew for a reason as most do. So yeah sm ohmmeter on the fuse circuit should tell you when you found the problem using Ohms Law and knowing you shouldn't be pulling 10 amps through that circuit if u want the 10 amp fuse to hold. So saying tha , ohms law states Resistance R=Voltage E /amps I then 12 volts/10 amps, would equal 1.2 ohms. So your circuit should maybe be somewhat less than 1.2 ohms maybe closer to 4 ohms under normal conditions. (Thinking properly engeneered circuit should be something like that, ) Hopefully you will find it soon.

I disconnected the step's power supply wires, but the fuse blew immediately after installing it. So now I guess I'm dealing with a short somewhere.

This is a long shot, but would anyone happen to have the wiring diagrams from Ford? FYI, my fuse #38 is blowing. My F53 is a 2018 model. Thanks!

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by charlescho

This is a long shot, but would anyone happen to have the wiring diagrams from Ford? FYI, my fuse #38 is blowing. My F53 is a 2018 model. Thanks!

Ford keeps those under lock and key. You'd need to find a mechanic that's a friend of yours I believe.

[K9AEG]

Nice hearing some chatter on this forum. I'm busy selling our Wisconsin house. Guessing it is now sold as of today. But you guys know the stuff that needs to be moved... In our case we are moving from central northern Wisconsin to Western Wisconsin. (At least in the summer months as winters are our camping grounds in Arizona). As of today, I guess our house is sold after only being on the market 6 days on the market! So basically we are now "full Time Rv's" as our new place in north western Wisconsin won't be ready till our return trip from Arizona in Spring...!!!

But that anyways, is what's happening here...