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Old 10-07-2022, 09:42 PM   #1
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Water in Accumulator...

If your water pressure accumulator's got water leaking at the air valve will it not allow the water system to draw in city water? Thanks
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Old 10-07-2022, 11:16 PM   #2
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Hi JForbey,
Your City Water connection has no need for an accumulator; only your built-in water pump. It sounds like you have a valve setting issue of some sort. Could you tell us about your RV? Motorhome or trailer model and year of manufacture?
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Old 10-07-2022, 11:35 PM   #3
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I've got a 1998 Winnebago. The city water is hooked up with good pressure but to have house pressure the water pump must be on-the check valve is on. I've had to resort to filling the water tank to have inside water. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-08-2022, 07:25 AM   #4
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Could you tell us what Winnebago you have? Even 24 years ago they made dozens of models.

Running your water pump with your city water connection can cause a problem with your pump’s check valve. But none of this or an added accumulator should be stopping your city water flow.

But also water should not come out of the air valve of the accumulator. That would indicate a ruptured bladder inside the accumulator. That would mean the accumulator is not working. Which is an unrelated issue. None of what you mentioned seems related to your problem.

A guess for your city water problem might be the diverter valve behind the city water inlet or maybe the check valve behind the inlet.
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Old 10-08-2022, 08:29 AM   #5
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This is the list of Winnebago RV for the motorhome group and will give you an idea of why we need to know which year, make and model of RV you have as each will have different partsand built in different ways.
With the correct info on what you have, folks will be able to tell what you may have and give much more correct info.

https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
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Old 10-08-2022, 03:13 PM   #6
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Accumulator tanks are built with 2 totally separate sections; the wet half contains water the compressed air section only contains approx. 20psi air pressure.
If water is coming out of the valve stem air fitting, the rubber bladder is ruptured; tank must be replaced.


BTW, when an accumulator tank is installed in an RV, the water inlet must be on the bottom, otherwise there is no way to winterize the tank.


As to water flow; when the diverter valve is set to city water, the pump and tank are taken out of the plumbing system.
Check your wet bay fresh water valve settings.
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Old 10-08-2022, 03:37 PM   #7
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I've got a 1998 Winnebago Adventurer. Got good water pressure and check valve is open. Now if I need on board pressure I've been filling the tank with city water and using the pump. The diaphragm is broken so I don't know what kind of stress that puts on the pump...thanks
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Old 10-08-2022, 03:41 PM   #8
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Hi JForbey,
Should you need to remove your leaking accumulator, you can either replace it with a new one, or plumb it out of your system. As for me, I installed a water pump controller which adjusts the speed of the water pump to keep a steady 32 PSI at the tap. No need for an accumulator with the IRVWPC:
Water Pump Variable Speed Controller
I really like the thing, and I highly recommend it.
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Old 10-08-2022, 04:33 PM   #9
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I agree, with the invention of variable speed RV water pumps, an accumulator tank is unneeded, unless not having to listen to the pump run is the goal.
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Old 10-11-2022, 04:26 PM   #10
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My motorhome is a 1998 Winnebago Adventurer. I have good water pressure and put a pressure regulator on. From the manual I read about the accumulator having 20psi air. When I pressed in the needle valve water spurted out so I guess the diaphragm is broken. But in order to get pressure I have to have pump on...which drains the on board tank. Turning on the city water there is no pressure in system. I have to keep filling tank if I want pressure.
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Old 10-11-2022, 08:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
This is the list of Winnebago RV for the motorhome group and will give you an idea of why we need to know which year, make and model of RV you have as each will have different partsand built in different ways.
With the correct info on what you have, folks will be able to tell what you may have and give much more correct info.

https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm
Did you look at this list and try to sort out what RV you have?
With that info we can begin to look at how it might be plumbed and what might cause your problem!!

Right now there have been ten posts and much of it has been wasted as you have not tried to help!
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Old 10-12-2022, 05:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morich View Post
Did you look at this list and try to sort out what RV you have?
With that info we can begin to look at how it might be plumbed and what might cause your problem!!

Right now there have been ten posts and much of it has been wasted as you have not tried to help!
I looked at the list and found it to be a 1998 Winnebago Adventurer WCG35WP. I thought all you needed was the year, make and model. Thank you
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Old 10-13-2022, 09:40 AM   #13
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No problem other than it does slow getting the right answers! We're good on that..

So with looking at the drawings , I think I can see the most likely problem and it is an area that does give trouble at times. Plastic parts that can get brittle as they get older?

This is what should happen when you are using the pump and water from the tank. A line comes to the water pump and there is a check valve (one way valve?) that lets water pass through to the rest of the lines in the RV as the green line. There is a second small spring type check valve at the water hose connection. You may see it if you look directly in the hole? It keeps water from going out when no hose connected.

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When things are right and we turn off the pump and want to use pressure water, it should go in, fill the pipe to the pump and that check valve but the check valve keeps it from going that direction, so it goes up and in the RV.

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But if the water pump check valve fails and doesn't close, the water comes in but rather than going UP, it is easier for it to stay low and go through the pump (backwards?) and start to fill the tank!

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That's what I see and "think" is wrong but it all needs checking. I think a lot of things that need testing before I believe them!

So some questions?
When you are connected to pressure, can you hear or feel water running in the hose when all the faucets are closed? If so and it's not coming up at the faucets or leaking out on the ground or floors, it's going into the tank!

If you can't tell if water is running, a way to test is to drain the tank first, leave the drain valve open and THEN turn on the hose to see if water starts coming out the drain again.

If this turns out to be true, the fix may not be tooo hard or expensive as parts are pretty cheap and can be found online.
The drawings show it as a Shurflow pump, but pumps are prone to getting changed over the years, so do look at the label on the pump you have and match parts for what you have, not what the drawings from 25 years back show!
Trust what you find, not what I say!!

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On the fix, either replace the pump or cheaper and not hard is to replace just the rubber/plastic parts like the check valve. Personal choice and depends on how you want to work it, but I might replace ALL the rubber parts while I had it out as they do get funky if they are the 25 year old parts! I try not to do that sort of thing too often if it only saves a few dollars??
None of the rebuild is tricky or hard but there are often videos online of folks doing whatever brand and model of pump you find.
New pumps can be a good option, too and about all you need to match is the same size hose connections and the gallons per minutes rating. The check valve is built as part of the pump.

Hope that fits and gets you going again!
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