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Old 05-04-2023, 10:13 AM   #1
unclescratch
 
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eliminating daytime running lights

Any way to turn off the daytime running lights? I think they're great for motorcycles, but motorhomes are not easy to 'not see'. Anyone does this?

And as an aside, this search engine, even for 'just this forum' sucks. You never really get a focused search, just all kinds of threads. Yech !!!
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Old 05-04-2023, 03:55 PM   #2
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Don't know of a way to disable them...maybe look for a fuse labeled DRL? But my question would be... Why? I mean, yes, it is harder to "not see" a MH vs a motorcycle, but what are you gaining by disabling them?
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Old 05-04-2023, 04:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclescratch View Post

And as an aside, this search engine, even for 'just this forum' sucks. You never really get a focused search, just all kinds of threads. Yech !!!
Lots of forum search engines are like that. Better to just put your query into Google and add the forum name to the string.
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Old 05-04-2023, 07:51 PM   #4
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Lots of forum search engines are like that. Better to just put your query into Google and add the forum name to the string.

That is exactly what the Google search box at the top of this page does unless winnieowners.com is de-selected.
As to the DRL question; there is a DRL module in the headlamp wiring. The drawback is, if the DRL was a federal requirement when the MH was built, disabling it can possibly lead to legal issues if involved in a crash.
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:23 PM   #5
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This is the drawing for that section:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_141334.pdf

Seems this might be what is needed? Your choice from there!

Click the snip to see better!

Click image for larger version

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Old 05-05-2023, 08:14 PM   #6
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Looks like this is for the Ford chassis. Mine is the GM Workhorse. But I will dig into those wiring diagrams. Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2023, 08:28 PM   #7
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But...why? What do you gain by disabling DRL?

Sorry, I just don't get it
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Old 05-06-2023, 04:20 PM   #8
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My thoughts on doing away with DRL is that as long as the lights are 'on', they are consuming their useful life. I don't know what the bulbs cost, but I would hate to be without them when they were really needed. So why waste them? On my MH, DRL seems like a waste to me.
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Old 05-07-2023, 07:41 AM   #9
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I normally drive with my headlights on for safety reasons, also in most states if your windshield wipers are on, you are required to have your headlights on. Many newer cars with automatic headlights have the programing built into their computers to turn the headlights on when the wipers are on. Not sure if this functionality has made its way into the brains of our RV's, but DRL serve the same function.
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Old 05-07-2023, 08:36 AM   #10
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My 2010 Dodge truck has a setting to turn lights on when wipers are on, and that's been enabled since I bought it new. My two cars and my wife's 2012 cr-v have auto headlights, and my wife sewed some weighted "bags" of dark cloth that we toss over the light sensor when it's raining or in poor visibility situations. The switch stays on Auto but now it's "dark" and the lights come on.

The truck doesn't have DRL but all the cars do, and all use H4/9003 duel filament bulbs. DRL operates by applying a lower voltage to the high-beam filament. No idea how DRL operates on the Vista, but now I want to find out.
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Old 05-07-2023, 08:48 AM   #11
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If you drive on a lot of 2 lanes you would definitely want daytime headlights, oncoming traffic tends to be more careful of passing and allows more distance when they see those headlights. I drive the narrow two lanes in Mexico often and wouldn't be without them. Yes they do burn out more often but I keep spares in the glove box.
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Old 05-07-2023, 12:30 PM   #12
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I had to look it up to satisfy my own curiosity, and from my 2014 Ford chassis manual:

Quote:
The system switches the low beam headlamps on at a reduced intensity in daylight conditions
I remain highly skeptical that this reduces the bulb life in any significant way.
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Old 05-07-2023, 02:27 PM   #13
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not sure if this correlates or not, but in the theatrical lighting world it is the on and off that destroys filament type lamps. Most dimming systems applied a low voltage to lamps not being used so that when they did come on they were not shocked and burnt out less often. You could see that they were glowing, but not enough to project any substantial beam of light
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Old 05-07-2023, 03:39 PM   #14
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not sure if this correlates or not, but in the theatrical lighting world it is the on and off that destroys filament type lamps. Most dimming systems applied a low voltage to lamps not being used so that when they did come on they were not shocked and burnt out less often. You could see that they were glowing, but not enough to project any substantial beam of light
I agree with this idea on what burns the filiment. I'm of the opinion that the filiment rarely actually burns out but breaks. Same result as the bulb is no good but the WHY changes?

I feel there is what we have called "thermal shock" involved. That is what happens when a cold filiment suddenly gets heated enough to glow. The metal expands. compresses each cycle and at some point that tiny movement break the super thin wire of the filiment.

Part of my reasoning is how very few times I get a bulb going out while it is on compared to how many times they flash and go out when I turn them on!
I think we may be killing them by flexing them every time, rather than the filiment actually getting burned away!

But I don't have lab to study those small points!
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Old 05-07-2023, 07:57 PM   #15
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I agree with this idea on what burns the filiment. I'm of the opinion that the filiment rarely actually burns out but breaks. Same result as the bulb is no good but the WHY changes?

I feel there is what we have called "thermal shock" involved. That is what happens when a cold filiment suddenly gets heated enough to glow. The metal expands. compresses each cycle and at some point that tiny movement break the super thin wire of the filiment.

Part of my reasoning is how very few times I get a bulb going out while it is on compared to how many times they flash and go out when I turn them on!
I think we may be killing them by flexing them every time, rather than the filiment actually getting burned away!

But I don't have lab to study those small points!



I am not a filament expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express Last Night!!!!
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Old 05-08-2023, 05:17 PM   #16
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Morich, do you have a link to this diagram for a Workhorse W22 chassis? Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2023, 05:47 PM   #17
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I am not a filament expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express Last Night!!!!
I may have torn down too many fish tank heaters and found they had broken at the rivet holding the coil!
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Old 05-08-2023, 06:01 PM   #18
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Morich, do you have a link to this diagram for a Workhorse W22 chassis? Thanks.
Not directly seeing it, so there are times when we can go back or forward a year and find hints of what we may need.

In this case going to the 2002 year gets some info that indicates they used DRL on some GM and FORD as well as others. Maybe a bit of help on colors that might still have been used in 2003?
That's going pretty far out on guessing but best I'm finding, so check carefully before trusting!!
It also gives me nothing for location, so you may be working blind?

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_121694.pdf

I do see a fuse as well as a relay, so you might be able to spot one or the other for the quicker idea of pulling one of those?/
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Old 05-08-2023, 07:10 PM   #19
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not sure if this correlates or not, but in the theatrical lighting world it is the on and off that destroys filament type lamps. Most dimming systems applied a low voltage to lamps not being used so that when they did come on they were not shocked and burnt out less often. You could see that they were glowing, but not enough to project any substantial beam of light
This is true of incandescent lamps and although a halogen is an enhanced version of an incandescent lamp, operating it at a low enough voltage to where it cools the filament enough to stop the halogen cycle causes the lamp to function as an ordinary incandescent which can shorten the life of the filament because the evaporated tungsten no longer returns to the filament and instead accumulates on the glass an the filament gradually burns away and weakens.
Bringing an incandescent or a halogen up gradually however, as opposed to a sudden full power on, will extend the life of both.
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Old 05-08-2023, 07:50 PM   #20
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Those lights may save someone else's life and/or avoid an entire family from having to deal with the potential life long effect of an unexpected tragedy. I am astonished on your rationale for the why, but I can respect you wanting to do what you want on your coach. I think of the poor souls that perished in Illinois due to unsuspected dust storms, I would rather know running lights are always on. I suspect a replacement bulbs would cost the same as 1 gallon of gas.

When I first started reading, I thought your concern was when you manually turn lights on and then turn the engine off, the lights stay on and do not beep or warn you I guess they assume it is night and you can see the lights; but I have turned the lights on during the day as habit, stop and get out; but because lights don't turn off automatically or provide an a warning alarm / chime I am at risk of draining my chassis battery.
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