No, I just verified today with clarity that it really is the breaker and the part that I would have bought off ebay would not fit although specs wise it is the exact same.
For the record every time I have tried Lichtsinn their parts seem excessively high, and then the shipping cost is outrageous. i.e. I once tried to order wood trim that was only $60, their cost, but the shipping was $300. They said it was odd shape (8ft long?). I needed two so it was $120parts + $600 shipping
Similar goes for an Aussie Grill, I found it online for 1/3 what they were charging. Having said that I love Lichtsinn RV and tried to buy my RV from them. I think they are a class act. Without their videos I never would have bought a Winnebago. I concluded that I am probably just too thrifty to be one of their customers? I am big enough to understand that Good Service cost money, so sometimes I just prefer to take the savings when I can and buy my way out of trouble when / if needed. i.e My dealer wanted $7,000 for extended warranty, it has been two years and I have been using $1,500 / year to buy little add that I like, i.e AGS EC-30 and vMax Tank AGM batteries.
Sometime one has to go with the one who can supply parts regardless of cost...sometimes
__________________
Wayne MSGT USMC (Ret) & Earlene (CinCHouse)
2015 Winnebago Tour 42QD - 2020 Lincoln Nautilus Reserve (TOAD)
(RVM-14) It is what it is, and then it is what you make of it.
Sometime one has to go with the one who can supply parts regardless of cost...sometimes
I agree when you have no choice. But in this case, today I just got the clarification / confirmation that the part is the apparent culprit. Oddly I may have saved $400 - $500 already just by diagnosing myself with the help of Winnebago, Power Gear, and today Mechanical Products. My workaround solution that bypasses the breaker is working; so I can use my steps right now exactly the way they were intended. I just have no overload protection.
I plan to just let it go for a while to see if it ever occurs again with the breaker not in the circuit. So far; 4 days and it has worked flawlessly.
When I get a round tuit; I may actually check the cost of the part from a couple of dealers including Lichtsinn RV, but as I stated earlier Winnebago may already be sending me the part? I was just going to buy a similar looking one off ebay as it was only $5; but I may just go with a simple 5 or 6 amp inline fuse instead.
Anybody want to guess at to how much it may cost to buy a $5 part from a Dealer? I paid $25 to Carefree Awning to get a .75 cent plastic plug that came off my endcap exposing the hex bolt. To their credit, they sent me two, but both replacements came off 2 months later
Update: I just went out to the garage and found 3 brand new automotive fuse holders. They came with my motorcycle battery tenders that I have collected over the years but never needed. I will cut one up and crimp connectors on both sides so I can connect to the 12vdc bus and the out put ER wire to the switch. I may get cute and run the wires.... both sides through the hole where the 6 amp push button breaker is. That way the fuseholder is on outside should I blow a fuse. I will put is a 5 amp fuse even though the the current breaker is for 6 amps
So I went ahead and completed my workaround fix today. I took the OEM 6 amp breaker completely out and wired in a new automotive fuse holder. I inserted a 5 amp fuse; so I now not only have protection, but fuse would blow before the OEM breaker would trip.
I will now just roll like this for awhile to ensure problem is 100% gone. For kicks I did call the RV Dealer I bought coach from, but they struggle to find the Winnebago part number. I will talk with Winnebago sooner than later; so I will inquire about the part number then.
If you noticed, I put the fuse on outside of the panel. I did so for two reasons. #1 So I don't forget that eventually I will get the right OEM breaker. #2 If Fuse does blow it will be easy to replace
If you have a Winnebago parts reference sheet and can tell me Winnebago P/N for 1600 - 069 - 060; I would be much obliged.
So I went ahead and completed my workaround fix today. I took the OEM 6 amp breaker completely out and wired in a new automotive fuse holder. I inserted a 5 amp fuse; so I now not only have protection, but fuse would blow before the OEM breaker would trip.
I will now just roll like this for awhile to ensure problem is 100% gone. For kicks I did call the RV Dealer I bought coach from, but they struggle to find the Winnebago part number. I will talk with Winnebago sooner than later; so I will inquire about the part number then.
If you noticed, I put the fuse on outside of the panel. I did so for two reasons. #1 So I don't forget that eventually I will get the right OEM breaker. #2 If Fuse does blow it will be easy to replace
If you have a Winnebago parts reference sheet and can tell me Winnebago P/N for 1600 - 069 - 060; I would be much obliged.
I checked the parts catalog for my 2011 37f that has 6amp CB's and the Winnie part # is
093654-01-000. Here is a picture of the breaker for reference.
__________________
2011 Adventurer 37F on a W24 2009 Workhorse
Okay, maybe time for simple hard head thinking?
Just to mention an option when things get too funky to mess with small stuff?
Since you have a "fix" done that lets you have some time, how about a look at what you are being told and think if they are actually correct?
What I see on all these pictures of breaker, whether your breaker or the one from E-bay makes them look exactly alike, except for the last few digits of the part number which varies with amperage! Check the layout of the five rivets and down to even the bump for the fifth rivet and I see them the same thing!
Do you have almost a 1/4 inch of space on each side and plenty in the back to allow for a tiny bit of difference in size?
They are close enough that even a super tight guy like me might want to throw five bucks into the bet and get one from E-bay to see if it fit!!!
Five bucks bet again 20+ shipping to get the "right" one based on parts that they may not have?
I'm okay with that as being better than we get at casinos and lots more fun if we never have to leave the house!!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
I checked with my selling dealer and they say it is $10.99 plus shipping but they can't tell you how the shipping will be
They have to order from Mechanical Products as they don't have but they confirmed that Mechanical Products can ship in 48 hours.
I have also reached out to Lichtsinn RV per Wayne's suggestion to see what they say. But they had 30 minute wait for new parts, so I hung up and sent them an email, I get emails from their parts department all the time, so I will see how the email request for price quote works.
Okay, maybe time for simple hard head thinking?
Just to mention an option when things get too funky to mess with small stuff?
Since you have a "fix" done that lets you have some time, how about a look at what you are being told and think if they are actually correct?
What I see on all these pictures of breaker, whether your breaker or the one from E-bay makes them look exactly alike, except for the last few digits of the part number which varies with amperage! Check the layout of the five rivets and down to even the bump for the fifth rivet and I see them the same thing!
Do you have almost a 1/4 inch of space on each side and plenty in the back to allow for a tiny bit of difference in size?
They are close enough that even a super tight guy like me might want to throw five bucks into the bet and get one from E-bay to see if it fit!!!
Five bucks bet again 20+ shipping to get the "right" one based on parts that they may not have?
I'm okay with that as being better than we get at casinos and lots more fun if we never have to leave the house!!
I bet you are right. The one I am looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/120386127635 is the same size as I was able to measure on my OEM because it is out of RV now. Both have the exact same specifications. The only difference I can see is the number 6 on the reset button. The ebay breaker will have the number 6 rotated 90 degrees
But argument could be made that when you open the compartment door and look at the breakers maybe they all should be rotated 90 degrees as it would actually be in standard reading position As it is now you have to stick you head all the way inside of compartment and turn your head 90 degrees to read the 6 amp number in standard position.
I like your thinking and I may order the ebay part yet. I am in rush because as you say it all works fine now. There is always the risk that even with a new breaker it may start to randomly retract again
I don't mind paying twice as much or maybe even 3 times as much, but if they gonna charge 400 - 600% markup, I am that little mini mouse that may stand up and fight back.
This way you get thirty chances to replace the sticker----after it falls off!
So I like the sticker idea, thinking I can go with a new #6 every year and this will take the RV out 30 years... but not surprisingly for my luck; I go to order the stickers and they are out of stock
I think the orientation of the #6 was done specifically for Winnebago by Mechanical Products; thus the special part number that is not readily available.
I am going to give 3 Winnebago Dealers a fair chance at being at least semi, half way, partially reasonable
If not; I will buy the the sideways #6 amp lettering breaker for $5 and call it a day. But I feel better know it is working now and I have the 5 amp fuse inline. At least I know nothing funky is going on drawing current
I will have to look at later but wanted to make note that as of 7:30 AM they were retracted and the switch was still in off position. Nothing happened for it to retract and the breaker is no longer in the coach.
I reset it; and will watch further, but there really may be something else happening.
It had been extended for a couple of days without issue. I am gonna hang on to my overpriced 6 amp breaker just in case
So I get up this morning and the steps had retracted. Nothing changed overnight. Not connected to shorepower nor generator.
So I take voltmeter and get 12.79vdc on the bus and 12.79 on the ER wire coming out of the 6 amp breaker. All looks good.
So I go unlock the door and of course steps come out. I take a reading on the ER contact at the switch input and get a reading of 12.71 vdc So I shut door and the steps extend.
Did you mean extend or did they actually retract?
Really confused now as to what made the steps retract overnight, and why did it not extend when 12vdc was returned? I can guess that the latter may be because the Kwikie controller may not tell it to extend until it see another door open action so it knows not to retract.
There is nothing on inside the coach, it is as if it were ins storage all powered down.
Just because, it seems you have run a full circle and came back to the same, I went back to look for anything we might not have checked carefully enough and came across this post that made me wonder if it might have been some sort of clue or did it just not say what you meant, so wanted to double check what it is doing????
What I find is the step is very determined to extend any time the door is open and I have to fool the door switch with a magnet to keep the step from flying out, whether the key is , switch is off or whatever else I do! It seems they are SO concerned about us falling out that the step will override anything we tell it like turning the switch off as long as the door switch magnet sees the door not there as it is open.
Pain for me as my batteries are under the steps and I have a hard time reaching them with the steps out and the steps come out almost ALL the time, if I don't hold a magnet on the switch to keep the reed switch inside from moving as I open the door!
As a devil's advocate, is that what you are expecting of the steps ,whether the step switch is on or off?
Maybe we are not getting enough info on the switch controller's little mind and it is actually doing what it should but the reed switch is hanging up at times?? What brings this around is that I have used a magnet at times to keep the steps in with the door open and then when I removed the magnet and wanted the steps to work normal again, the switch seemed to be "hung" until I rapped it with a screwdriver!
Maybe give it some thought about it not being a voltage problem but something simple like the reed switch at the door hanging, either showing closed or open to mess with the operation and then after some time, beginning to move correctly?
Only going that way as it seems to be not the breaker!!! So what IS it!!! The problem may be that we are not getting enough info on how the "brains" in the controller does it's thinking....
A little thing like the switch giving it bad info gets you "garbage in , garbage out" like in computer world things?
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
So I get up this morning and the steps had retracted. Nothing changed overnight. Not connected to shorepower nor generator.
So I take voltmeter and get 12.79vdc on the bus and 12.79 on the ER wire coming out of the 6 amp breaker. All looks good.
So I go unlock the door and of course steps come out. I take a reading on the ER contact at the switch input and get a reading of 12.71 vdc So I shut door and the steps extend. Did you mean extend or did they actually retract?
Really confused now as to what made the steps retract overnight, and why did it not extend when 12vdc was returned? I can guess that the latter may be because the Kwikie controller may not tell it to extend until it see another door open action so it knows not to retract.
There is nothing on inside the coach, it is as if it were ins storage all powered down.
I see why it reads confusing, I was trying to say the door stayed extended, meaning that it was working. At the time I was just learning that the switch when turned OFF closes the circuit sending 12vdc to the controller so the would stay extended unless one of the safety features (ignition) retracted the steps. I was also making the assumption that the reason it had retracted overnight was due to some momentary loss of 12vdc. I have since proved that given a momentary loss of 12v, it will retract and will NOT extend again just by the return of 12vdc alone, you must trigger by opening and closing the door again
Just because, it seems you have run a full circle and came back to the same, I went back to look for anything we might not have checked carefully enough and came across this post that made me wonder if it might have been some sort of clue or did it just not say what you meant, so wanted to double check what it is doing????
What I find is the step is very determined to extend any time the door is open and I have to fool the door switch with a magnet to keep the step from flying out, whether the key is , switch is off or whatever else I do! It seems they are SO concerned about us falling out that the step will override anything we tell it like turning the switch off as long as the door switch magnet sees the door not there as it is open.
Pain for me as my batteries are under the steps and I have a hard time reaching them with the steps out and the steps come out almost ALL the time, if I don't hold a magnet on the switch to keep the reed switch inside from moving as I open the door!
As a devil's advocate, is that what you are expecting of the steps ,whether the step switch is on or off?
I read that post, it was a little confusing to me but I assumed that poster was trying to do just the opposite of what I was seeking?
I think that poster had a beef that his door was always extended when he wanted to access the batteries under steps; and he had no way to make it go back in?
My coach does exactly what he describes and I like it, I actually step up on the steps when accessing my battery compartment as they are extended 100% of the time, because the door is opened. My steps will be out 100% of the time if the door is opened regardless of the switch position On/off which makes sense to me.
I think that poster used a magnet to trick the controller that his door was closed so it would retract so he could stand on the ground and work on his battery, that is not what I was trying to do nor my problem.
My problem is...
When you exit your coach, you have the option to have steps extended or retracted. My RV is always at home and I use it regularly. By turning my Step Automatic Mode Switch to OFF, when I close the door the steps will stay extended. It is nice for going in and out of coach as there is less wear and tear on motor and darin on chassis battery. However in my situation a few weeks ago, I could have the switch OFF and when I closed the door it would immediately retract. At that time I could NOT make it stay extended no matter what I did short of leaving the door open, even if I close the screen only the steps would retract
After taking the switch out and doing various tests with the wires, the problem slightly changed. With Switch OFF the steps would stay out, but over some some random period of time the steps retracted by themself usually 4 - 8 hours
I then bypassed the breaker and it went 4 days working perfectly I then took the breaker out the coach and added a 5 amp automotive fuse inline and it went 2 days working perfectly until this morning.
It happened a 2nd time today so I am really baffled.
Maybe we are not getting enough info on the switch controller's little mind and it is actually doing what it should but the reed switch is hanging up at times?? What brings this around is that I have used a magnet at times to keep the steps in with the door open and then when I removed the magnet and wanted the steps to work normal again, the switch seemed to be "hung" until I rapped it with a screwdriver!
Maybe give it some thought about it not being a voltage problem but something simple like the reed switch at the door hanging, either showing closed or open to mess with the operation and then after some time, beginning to move correctly?
Only going that way as it seems to be not the breaker!!! So what IS it!!! The problem may be that we are not getting enough info on how the "brains" in the controller does it's thinking....
A little thing like the switch giving it bad info gets you "garbage in , garbage out" like in computer world things?
I agree that it may not be a voltage problem, but remember the problem did change. Originally it would retract immediately. When I spoke with Power Gear they had me check input voltage to the controller the ES wire from Winnebago. At the time the voltage was fluctuating between 4 and 7 vdc. That is why it stopped staying extended. That problem seem to have randomly got fixed because it started to always stay extended (even with the breakere); but then would randomly self close 4 - 8 hours later? Maybe the magnet or reed switch is doing something over time? The other thing that I am thinking is maybe something is telling the controller that my ignition is on? Turning the key will certainly make it retract, but the key is not turned. And why would it go 2 days before the false signal?
The only way I know to find out for sure if I was able to but a voltmeter that recorded the voltage real time 24/7 and then look at graph to see if there were any voltage fluctuations? I have new AGM batteries so it is hard to believe it is issue with batteries, but if voltage were to momentarily drop on the 12vdc buss it would make the condition occur.
This the steps had retracted again after going most of all day yesterday staying extended.
But this morning is actually worse as it has now returned to the original failure of 2 weeks ago when I first noticed the issue. The steps will no longer stay extended. THe switch is off but as soon as door is closed the steps retract.
Remember, there is no Shore Power.
So I check voltage on the fuse from 12vdc buss and I get 12.59vdc
I would need to pull it back part to check the voltage at the switch and the lead to the step's controller. I am completely back in full circle to the original problem. I may have to call Power Gear again and start all over.
Unless I have two issues (which I may) there may not be an issue with the 6 amp breaker?
I might begin to lean toward a problem with the door switch giving the wrong info as it is a pretty small and "delicate" movement inside the ones, I have torn down on different mechanical stuff. Not always the same but maybe easier to get to than tearing the motor out again?
Yes, I was trying to trick the steps into staying "IN" by putting the magnet on the switch as it is triggered by the metal of the screen door. What I was finding was that there were times when using the magnet seemed to do something inside the switch which then made it stick and the steps would not move until I whacked the door switch, making me think there was something which the magnet pulled too hard and made it stick.
How difficult would it be to tie the leads of the door switch together, making it think there was no door movement? That temporary jumper across the switch might let you know that the switch is no doing something weird like the wires shorting out on the frame ,etc.????
I think both our step normally work the same and when they are out, the step on/ off switch is what I think of as one to keep the step out when camped or stored. We do normally leave it turned off when here at home, but when wanting them in and the door open, I have to trick it!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Current Problem (which was the original issue noted two weeks ago)
The steps will NOT stay extended no matter what I do. They should stay extended when switch is off and Ignition not on.
New Info
I pulled the 4 pin connector to the controler to check the voltage to the motor on wire ES. I only got 7.4vdc, it is suppose to be 12 vdc.
The controller needs to read 12 vdc from wire ES to know to stay extended when ignition is off. Since the voltage on ES wire is low now, it will not stay extended.
I checked the voltage on on the bus / fuse and got 12.56 vdc. That means I lost 5 vdc some the outbound fuse wire ER, to the switch's outbound wire ES.
I am now considering to going back to my one of my 1st test which was to connect the switch directly to the battery. I had did this before and it worked fine. However at the time I had no overload protection.
I am beginning to think there is something going on with the ER wire from breaker/fuse to Switch with voltage?
I might begin to lean toward a problem with the door switch giving the wrong info as it is a pretty small and "delicate" movement inside the ones, I have torn down on different mechanical stuff. Not always the same but maybe easier to get to than tearing the motor out again?
Yes, I was trying to trick the steps into staying "IN" by putting the magnet on the switch as it is triggered by the metal of the screen door. What I was finding was that there were times when using the magnet seemed to do something inside the switch which then made it stick and the steps would not move until I whacked the door switch, making me think there was something which the magnet pulled too hard and made it stick.
How difficult would it be to tie the leads of the door switch together, making it think there was no door movement? That temporary jumper across the switch might let you know that the switch is no doing something weird like the wires shorting out on the frame ,etc.????
I think both our step normally work the same and when they are out, the step on/ off switch is what I think of as one to keep the step out when camped or stored. We do normally leave it turned off when here at home, but when wanting them in and the door open, I have to trick it!
Yes our steps work the exact same way. The door switch works fine and every aspect about my steps work like it is suppose to. See my new update #2 post, the problem is my system is failing to supply the 12vdc needed to the controller so the controller knows I want it to stay extended. At the moment it is only sending 7.4vdc to the controller. If I can get that issue resolved (again) there may be another issue looming to make the 12vdc randomly drop causing the steps to retract on it's on as you state something funky with the switch or even controller?
First thing for me to admit is that I have never seen or checked on any drawing to see what makes the steps and controller work, so much can be a guess!
But then I wonder if it is true that 12volt full time is needed to make the step stay out???
One reason for me to have questions on that is the trouble I had getting them to stay IN when I want to work on the batteries. If I am changing batteries and have the coach and start batteries disconnected, the steps always stayed out and in my way----if remembered correctly.
Does the controller need 12VDC full time to keep the step in one location, in or out? That would mean a full time drain on battery when we store it and might explain why so many have trouble keeping the battery charged, if the step is a full time drain besides just the light being on??
I would go out and test by pulling the negative cables off batteries to see what happens but I am very relieved to say the Rv has just been picked up by a new owner---after several months of playing games with a dealer who turned out to be less than honest!
AND this time the money actually shows up in our bank rather than a promise that there is some kind of funky paperwork holdup!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
As it is now you have to stick you head all the way inside of compartment and turn your head 90 degrees to read the 6 amp number in standard position.
Linear Mode
