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Old 09-05-2020, 10:39 AM   #1
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Inverter NOT working - URG

I just purchased a View (2017) and now my inverter would turn on. I called Xantrax and he had me detach the inside panel and connect it directly to the inverter to see if it would turn on. It did not. I checked the voltage and I am getting 2.6V - seems very low. My batteries are fully charged. The little reset button on the side of the inverter has no resistance (meaning when I push on it, it doesn't seem to do anything).

Any ideas?
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:02 AM   #2
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You're batteries are completely charged - but supplying 2.6v?

If that's correct then those two things cannot be true at the same time.

2.6v doesn't seem very low... it's indicative of a totally dead battery.

Since it's a pre-owned MH there is no telling what the PO did with batteries and charging and maintenance.

A great many times we hear from folks that swear their batteries are fully charged because they have a gauge inside the RV showing batteries with 13 to 14v of charge and they think that means the batteries are fully charged. Of course, the RV is plugged in to shore power and all they are seeing is the charger voltage.

What did Xantrax support say about the low voltage situation?
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:08 AM   #3
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I called them yesterday and got the instructions and called them this morning and they are closed - probably won't get them until Tuesday.

If I unplug from shore power how long do I need to wait to recheck the charge on the battery?
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:17 AM   #4
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When I said 2.6v - that is the reading I get off the inverter using a voltage meter. When I use the voltage meter on the house batteries, I get 13.4v. Does that make sense? Clearly I am not a electrician or mechanic lol.
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
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If I unplug from shore power how long do I need to wait to recheck the charge on the battery?
More than an hour - and you need to not use any 12v appliance, as well. Also, the same goes for the RV engine not running for an hour and no generator running either.

Charging will always show the voltage of the charge. And, when you unplug there will be a Surface Charge showing that will slowly drain away.

This is why the battery meter inside an RV is practically worthless for gauging battery state of charge.

One other option would be to drive the RV to an auto parts store and have the battery load tested. But if you do, you probably do not want the battery they would naturally want to sell you.
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:20 AM   #6
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I don't think it matters how long you wait if you unplug from shore power to test them, if they're only putting out 2.6V.
If your batteries are flooded, carefully pull one or two of the caps and check if there's visible water in the cells between the plates. Wear eye protection when you do this. If you have a source of distilled water, and the cell water levels are low, you could try topping them up, and see if that helps, but if they've been dry for a while, it might be too late.
If they're sealed, get a multimeter and check them after disabling the coach battery enable/disable (salesman switch).
If they still show 2.6V state of charge, they're probably toast, as creativepart suggested.
The battery charge meters are only good for telling you your converter/charger is working.
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:27 AM   #7
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I misspoke. The 2.6v is the reading i get when I connect the voltage meter to the inverter.
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:54 AM   #8
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If that reading was from the cables connecting the batteries to the Inverter... then that would be the voltage of the batteries. But perhaps you picked up a voltage from somewhere else on the inverter that isn't battery voltage?

Do what Winterbagoal suggested. That's a decent place to start.

You may not have realized it when you bought an RV - but now you are an electrical engineer, a waste processing engineer, a refrigeration expert and a hydraulic systems supervisor as well as a trip planner, driver, and chief cook.
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Old 09-05-2020, 12:02 PM   #9
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Friend, you've answered you own question. Take a meter and (if you don't have one you really need one). measure the voltage and then disconnect the shore power. The shore power voltage will be the charging power and after you disconnect it will be the actual battery voltage. If after it's been charging for a time (depending on your charger) if the battery isn't over 12 volts it's time to have them checked out but will probably need to replaced. If you hace one of these things you should have a meter, battery charger and know ohms law. Look it up on youtube. It is why if you read the voltage od a 1.5 volt flashlight battery with a meter and it doesn't read more than 1.5 it won't last. No load and wont last. if your car battery e=reeads 12V you'll be lucky if it starts.
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Old 09-05-2020, 12:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
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You may not have realized it when you bought an RV - but now you are an electrical engineer, a waste processing engineer, a refrigeration expert and a hydraulic systems supervisor as well as a trip planner, driver, and chief cook.
Truer words were never typed. I've said you need to be a good troubleshooter to own an RV.
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Old 09-05-2020, 12:41 PM   #11
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So funny - I guess I need to update my resume.
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Old 09-05-2020, 01:09 PM   #12
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After sitting for a few hours with not connection to power, my house batteries are measuring 12.7v. I have a portable inverter and I connected it to the house batteries and it also measure 12.7v and I was able to charge my phone. But now I am not getting anything to the inverter. Damn! Could be the inverter is dead....or the batteries are weak. Doesn't sound like I can fix it today..
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Old 09-05-2020, 02:20 PM   #13
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12.7v for a resting battery is fully charged. You've got something else going on. Either the Inverter has an issue or the wiring to it is not in working order.
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Old 09-09-2020, 07:22 PM   #14
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Sherri, I didn't see it mention anywhere, did your reset the GFCI on the receptacle on the front of the inverter?
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Old 09-10-2020, 04:03 AM   #15
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I did reset the GCFI. I have ordered a fuse CNn150. It looked burnt up so maybe that is the issue. Fingers crossed.
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Old 09-10-2020, 11:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherri View Post
When I said 2.6v - that is the reading I get off the inverter using a voltage meter. When I use the voltage meter on the house batteries, I get 13.4v. Does that make sense? Clearly I am not a electrician or mechanic lol.
Just a thought. Are you trying to read AC or DC in the inverter? If AC don't forget to select AC in the meter. Make certain you have a good and clean connection with the test leads.

If your inverter proves to be the problem I suggest a Magnum pure sine ware inverter as a replacement.
https://www.donrowe.com/ These folks have good prices and great customer support.
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:07 PM   #17
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Thumbs up Fixed

I wanted to let you know this fix to my inverter issue (in case it helps others). The CNN150 fuse between the two house batteries was blown. Replaced the fuse and all is good.

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Old 09-19-2020, 11:34 PM   #18
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Sherri: I'm curious: How big is your inverter (1000W or 1500W?)and how many Amp-Hours is your battery bank? I'm asking because a 150A fuse seems small to me; and if it's too small you may blow another fuse.

What do you think caused your 150A fuse to blow?
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