Chassis battery charging from Shore Power troubles

[CaptainTj]

First off, we have a 2005 Winnebagoe Journey 36G. My understanding is that this year came with no way to charge the batteries for the chassis from shore power. Our inverter / charger works great for the coach batteries but when I park, sometimes for several months it is always plugged in and I want to keep all batteries topped off.

I'm considering just installing a simple battery maintainer plugged into the RV 110 electrical system. My question here is, has anyone dealt with this problem already, how and what pros and cons did you find in the way you didi it?

Thanks in advance

[Winterbagoal]

Been doing it that way for years. No problems, except the cables from a battery maintainer might get in the way, depending on where the hot 110AC outlet is in relation to the hot 12V DC "always hot" outlet to the chassis battery. Mine isn't a problem in that respect.

[creativepart]

What most folks with mid-2000s WBGO motorhomes do is install a Trik-L-Start. In fact, it was so common that Winnebago used to supply installation instructions just for their motorhomes.

The Trik-L-Start and it's cousin the Amp-L-Start both are easily installed and they take a small amount of power from your house batteries to keep your chassis batteries fully charged.

Here's a thread about the install on irv2.com:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/tri...ll-458772.html

[imnprsd]

I prefer the KeyLine VSR. It's been doing a great job. No messy wires and for over 5 years it has been performing flawlessly! ($80)

On another charging subject: You will need a battery maintainer when you store your RV... assuming you have shore power. Or you can get by with solar if you have it and park outside... or you can just disconnect your positive battery cable when in storage.

Victron makes a battery charger and maintainer, and since I needed one of these, last year I went with Victron IP67 (17A, bluetooth enabled) charger, and I have been very happy with this configuration too, but I now see Victron has a new line of chargers, but you will need to evaluate which Victron is better in the sub-25A charging range. ($130-$175)

In storage I just run a extension cord inside the RV and plug the Victron into that. Then you set the charger to "storage" mode using the bluetooth.

And when I use the RV and have shore power, I just plug the Victron 17A into my bedroom wall socket. (You route the 12v wires under the dresser drawer and to the battery compartment.

Note: You really don't need a 100A charger. And I think the less demand you put on your Dimensions inverter-charger the better. So just turn this option off unless you need a rapid overnight charge. Further, when the Dimensions inverter-charger fails it is usually the charger section that goes. So by not using the charger side of the Dimensions unit, you should never need to replace the inverter. ...And the Dimension's quasi-sine inverter is very capable of powering a residential refrigerator.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TRRCZ75...ding=UTF8&th=1

[l1v3fr33ord1]

captainTj-

Welcome to winnieowners!

Second, you should add a signature to your user profile. It usually includes the year, make and model of your coach, but can include other information. A signature is appended to each post. To create/edit a signature, click on the "User CP" link in the orange bar at the top, then click on "Edit Signature."

Re: Charging the chassis batteries from the house charging source: As "creativepart" said, Winnebago started installing the Trik-L-Start in 2006 coaches. Below is the Winnebago Service Tip 2006-04 describing how to add one to a pre-2006 coach. These are simple devices, common and effective.

Information and ordering page for Trik-L-Start is here.
Information and ordering page for Amp-L-Start is here.

Pictures of installations are here and here.

[imnprsd]

...Yeah, but the owner's solenoids in this Journey are not that easy to get to.

On the other hand, if you are going to take about the metal cover to get to the solenoids, and these thing have never been changed, I would replace your old solenoids with new ones.

Now I know, some will disagree, but they won't be the ones suck in a parking lot or campsite at some point down the road. ...No telling when these things will fail, but after 10+ years, it's time to swap them out before they do.

So I would go with the Keyline VSR. Plus I think it's a more reliable device vs. the Trickle-L or it's bigger brother AMP-L. And it's easier to install and disconnect if you need to. ...Cheaper too!

[Morich]

Originally Posted by CaptainTj

First off, we have a 2005 Winnebagoe Journey 36G. My understanding is that this year came with no way to charge the batteries for the chassis from shore power. Our inverter / charger works great for the coach batteries but when I park, sometimes for several months it is always plugged in and I want to keep all batteries topped off.

I'm considering just installing a simple battery maintainer plugged into the RV 110 electrical system. My question here is, has anyone dealt with this problem already, how and what pros and cons did you find in the way you didi it?

Thanks in advance

Without keeping records, I might guess this is one of the most asked questions on the forum. What to do with the start batteries while stored?

From there, I feel it gets to be a very personal item of what you may want to do as you may already have something that works fine and want to use it. If you want to plug in the Rv and that keeps the coach batteries charged, it is a simple item for many to just plug a small charger into some 110 AC outlet in the rv or near and let it charge the start battery. No big deal as the two are separated when not running, etc. Two charging systems, keeping two sets of batteries charged.

But if the outlet and having a second charge system on hand and hooked up gets messy or hard to reach outlets, etc. The trik-l system can be added but that can also be a big headache if you follow the instructions and try to find and connect it to the solenoid. So some solenoids are way back hidden behind stuff and we need to look at why they say to put it there, if all we want to do is charge the start from the coach.

The trik-l has three wires, one to ground which we can find most anyplace there is metal, one to the coach battery positive and one to the start battery positive. One place to find both those positive leads is the solenoid, but it doesn't have to be connected at that end of the battery cables as it can work the same if we connect it to the other end of those cables where they come off the batteries!

If your solenoid is handy, connect it there but if not, look at connecting it on/nearer the batteries!

In my case, I can get to the batteries much easier as they are at the door under a flap, so that is where I put my Trik-L for easy install. Both my batteries have large fuse blocks right at the batteries which make a handy spot to tie the charge in and there is a ground bar down behind the batteries.
Yellow wire to coach, blue wire to start and black to ground is about as simple as it gets!

For those with sharp eyes, you may spot a couple extra wires on my batteries as I do like to watch them close while here at the house, so I have a small set of voltmeters tied on---- just so I don't have to go out but just read the voltage on both strings from my window inside the house!!!

[imnprsd]

Now I see... how the location of batteries and solenoids figure into your decision when it comes to hooking up an alternator charging system to your house batteries.

Since my Itasca Horizon (like the Journey) are diesels, we have our house batteries on a tray located above the engine batteries, which are also on a tray. To this is a "stacked" configuration that makes it very easy to install a Keyline VSR.

Just mount it to the side wall and run one #6-10 wire to the house battery, and a second wire to the engine battery, and you are done! And now both battery banks are connected thru positive side only.

This results in both banks being charged when the alternator is your energy source; and the KeyLine VSR is also working (automatically) when I use my Victron during storage or during camping with shore power.

==> If you install a Keyline VSR and remove your house batteries to get access, then I would also recommend you wire brush your 300A fuse and especially your ground bus bar that connects to frame. This is a very overlooked item that should be on your service list after 15 years! (I just did mine last summer.)

...But sure, I suppose if my batteries were under my front steps, which is not my situation, then I would go with a Amp-L or some other sort of battery isolator (VSR).

Here's what the OP and my batteries look like for those of you who might not know. And the last picture is so the OP can get a side view of his battery tray when the basement AC is pulled off the frame rails for service.

TIP for the new owners and old alike: Do a search on how to check the Basement AC Start & Run Capacitors. These are often forgotten about for 10+ years, so now is the time to check them if you want to get ahead of the game when it comes to AC service. (Replacing capacitors are not expensive and easy to do yourself.)

[Eagle5]

I just use these two items, plug into the house 120 VAC power, and the 12 VDC cigarette socket. Very simple and easy, and the total cost isn't too bad; at $48.49
Eagle5

1. Schumacher SP1297 3 Amp 12V Automatic Battery Charger Maintainer and Auto Desulfator Auto 12V Battery Detection For Cars, Motorcycles, Lawn Tractors, Power Sports, Marine Batteries $39.99
2. MOTOPOWER MP68996A 5FT 12V Cigarette Lighter Plug to SAE Quick Release Adapter Extension Charging Cable with Fuse and LED Light $8.50

The more you overtake the plumbing, the easier it is to stuff-up the drain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkJ3--2K7yo

[CaptainTj]

I see your pictures and am curious, do you not have the heat pump mounted right behind your batteries? How did you get that open access to the frame and engine along with back of the batteries?

[imnprsd]

You are right. I posted the picture of the open bay next to the battery tray, because I didn't have anything better to share. I borrowed it from FireUp. He has a 2004 Horizon 36G I think.

My 2004 Horizon 40A has a water heater and compartment underneath and then the Coleman-Mach 2-ton AC/heatpump.

Side note: In the above picture when you do have the Basement AC removed, notice the ECM side of the engine, lift pump, and CAPS pump. That's something us pre-2004 owners might need to remember in the event you need to replace one of these, because access to this area, including the starter solenoid area, is so hard to reach. ...And I bet no one thinks of this when your coach in for a major repair to your injector pump area. I didn't and I wish I knew this.

From a battery perspective, I just wanted to show the stackable battery trays.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by Eagle5

I just use these two items, plug into the house 120 VAC power, and the 12 VDC cigarette socket. Very simple and easy, and the total cost isn't too bad; at $48.49
Eagle5

1. Schumacher SP1297 3 Amp 12V Automatic Battery Charger Maintainer and Auto Desulfator Auto 12V Battery Detection For Cars, Motorcycles, Lawn Tractors, Power Sports, Marine Batteries $39.99
2. MOTOPOWER MP68996A 5FT 12V Cigarette Lighter Plug to SAE Quick Release Adapter Extension Charging Cable with Fuse and LED Light $8.50

The more you overtake the plumbing, the easier it is to stuff-up the drain.

Been using a similar method for years. No problems.

[HappiHenri]

CaptainTj -
Correct. For some reason the chassis battery was ignored. Even though my 2005 Adventurer came equipped with a small solar panel, it was hooked up to the house batteries only. But it was really way too small to do them much good, and besides I installed a much larger solar system to charge them up.

So I re-wired the small solar panel to my chassis battery to help keep it charged up. Works great - most of the time - until I hit a string of rainy days or end up parked under trees. So I got an inexpensive "smart" battery maintainer" which I can plug in when needed to keep the chassis battery charged.

Got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BobC]

The Trik-L-Start, Amp-l-Start, Keyline and similar units will also keep your starting battery charged via solar.

[Dennis Rhode]

I have been using the trio-L start on our 2005 36g for 5 years and love it. Works great.

[puttin]

Originally Posted by creativepart

What most folks with mid-2000s WBGO motorhomes do is install a Trik-L-Start. In fact, it was so common that Winnebago used to supply installation instructions just for their motorhomes.

The Trik-L-Start and it's cousin the Amp-L-Start both are easily installed and they take a small amount of power from your house batteries to keep your chassis batteries fully charged.

Here's a thread about the install on irv2.com:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/tri...ll-458772.html

This the way to go

[Jbcant]

Has anyone purchased a Trik-l-start module recently? They seem to be out of stock anywhere I search. With no date for restock.

[puttin]

Dumb question- Did you check their site? I didn't go through the whole ordering process because I already have one (been there for 10 years). LSL is the company. As somebody else said the AMP-L-Start is an upgrade so if you can get that one I'd do it!

[Morich]

In the meanwhile, if you want to keep the start battery charged but not used a separate charger, a strap from the positive of the coach to the positive of the start does very much the same---without the safety of the diode to keep both from running down at once.
I would want to add it at the correct times and remove it when using the RV.

[puttin]

Morich,


Yes, I did that before I got the Trckle-Start and it worked fine- good suggestion for the O.P.