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Old 10-30-2023, 04:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farco View Post
Part # ?
The number on the jack was AP40305
The part number for the springs is R3847
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Old 10-30-2023, 04:28 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Sierradave View Post
I have HWH hyd jacks. I was frustrated with slow-moving retracting jacks. My quick fix was spraying my jack rams (pistons) with food-grade silicone dry lube. I know HWH says don't add sprays or lubes to the rams. But I've been doing this for years with no issues - and it works. The long fix may be replacing the retraction springs. Years of use and over-tension may weaken them. Also, I use 4" blocks under my jacks (even on flat ground). It reduces spring fatigue. And yes to YT - I learned a lot of fixes and how-to's with YT.
It only makes sense to lessen the distance the jacks have to travel. I use the stackable leveling blocks to take up as much of the distance as possible.
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Old 10-30-2023, 04:54 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by jefflbi View Post
I've only owned the RV for 2 yrs and just this past summer started using it. I have never cleaned the cylinders, but I have sprayed them with WD40. It literally took 5 minutes for the one rear jack to retract. The RV only had 50k miles on it when I bought it. I will check under the steps for the reservoir. From another post I got the information that low fluid could cause a slow retracting jack. I want to check the easy fixes first!!

Thanks!
This might help in understanding your jacks: https://hwhcorp.com/ml44725.pdf

I suggest washing them clean with a mild solution of Dawn. Sometimes dirt rings build up on the cylinders. Make certain they are gone.
As others have suggested. You may need new springs. Replacing them is not a big job.
Rick
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Old 10-30-2023, 05:13 AM   #24
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This might help in understanding your jacks: https://hwhcorp.com/ml44725.pdf

I suggest washing them clean with a mild solution of Dawn. Sometimes dirt rings build up on the cylinders. Make certain they are gone.
As others have suggested. You may need new springs. Replacing them is not a big job.
Rick
I have replacement springs ordered, and I found a helpful video on youtube.
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Old 10-31-2023, 02:23 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jefflbi View Post
It only makes sense to lessen the distance the jacks have to travel. I use the stackable leveling blocks to take up as much of the distance as possible.

On the other hand, my HWH leveling system is a 1999 year with the original springs and still functions like new. I never use something under the jack feet to lessen stroke, just a "placemat" to prevent the feet from sinking is soft ground.
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Old 10-31-2023, 04:33 PM   #26
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Ok guys, this was an all day job for me due to several setbacks, but it's done! All springs are replaced. I watched several videos for the process, some guys used shims or something to keep the springs extended when they retracted the levelers and that's how I started doing the back, but then I saw a video of a guy that just a piece of string and 2 screws to make a make shift block n tackle and he was able to stretch that spring with ease and attach it. For the rears I used the shim method to get most of the springs off, and the space was cramped as well, but for the front springs, I was able to do the block n tackle method for removal and installation. The front springs went way faster!!!

But now I have another problem........... After doing the last spring on the rear levelers the levelers would no longer extend, which is the main reason I used the block n tackle method on the front springs. I have no idea why the levelers won't extend. It makes a noise but nothing happens. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the slides in and check the fluid level. I'm hoping it's just an easy fix. Maybe I have to drive the RV for awhile to get things back in sync.............
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Old 10-31-2023, 04:58 PM   #27
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Sorry to hear that!
Nothing worse than fixing something with new parts then have it not work.
I can’t imagine the springs are that much stronger keeping it from extending.
Hope you solve the problem!
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Old 11-01-2023, 12:20 PM   #28
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Latest update......... I found the reservoir......... why is there no access from above?? Like a removeable cover on one of the steps??? There was no oil on the dip stick. I wound up dumping a whole quart in and I believe there is finally something on the bottom of the dip stick. I'm going test out the jacks. Fingers crossed........

I'm definitely getting a crash course in RV DIY!!!!
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Old 11-01-2023, 01:36 PM   #29
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Latest update......... I found the reservoir......... why is there no access from above?? Like a removeable cover on one of the steps??? There was no oil on the dip stick. I wound up dumping a whole quart in and I believe there is finally something on the bottom of the dip stick. I'm going test out the jacks. Fingers crossed........

I'm definitely getting a crash course in RV DIY!!!!

The two middle steps should both be hinged at the rear and there should be a 1/2" hut under the step holding the step down, if my Journey wasn't in storage I would take a picture for you.
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Old 11-01-2023, 01:39 PM   #30
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check out this video starting at 3:30


this video is regarding a power gear system, but the HWH reservoir is in the same location and the step raises just as shown. What this video does not show is removing the nut that holds the step down, is is under the lip of the step and you will need a 1/2" deep well socket to remove the nut.
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Old 11-01-2023, 05:23 PM   #31
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If the fluid is discolored/contaminated, now is a good time to suck the oil from the reservoir and replace with new.



With the fluid level within 1 inch of the top of the reservoir, extend the jacks then store them. Re-check fluid level and refill as necessary. Repeat until the fluid level remains constant with jacks and slides retracted.
This purges air from the system.
And_ no, the springs will not affect extending them.
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Old 11-01-2023, 05:51 PM   #32
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I found the stock black plastic dipstick made it near impossible to determine the level of fluid in the tank, I made a longer dipstick from a wooden down and put notches in it. It is long enough that I can't drop it in the tank, and gives me a solid clue as to the fluid levels.



Something else you need to watch on these is o-rings that go bad. They are on the top of the pump housing and I keep a few on hand just in-case one were to start leaking. I also know some people that keep a spare shuttle valve on hand, again, just in case. All in all it is a reliable system, but messy when it brakes, which thankfully isn't that often.
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Old 11-01-2023, 07:08 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
If the fluid is discolored/contaminated, now is a good time to suck the oil from the reservoir and replace with new.



With the fluid level within 1 inch of the top of the reservoir, extend the jacks then store them. Re-check fluid level and refill as necessary. Repeat until the fluid level remains constant with jacks and slides retracted.
This purges air from the system.
And_ no, the springs will not affect extending them.
I really couldn't tell if the fluid was discolored because I couldn't see it on the dipstick. All I had on hand is the Dextron automatic transmission fluid which the manual said was an ok substitute if you didn't have HWH fluid, and since I'm leaving on my next trip early Friday morning, the Dextron will have to do, but I will order fluid from HWH. And thanks for the tip on extending everything then, retracting and checking the fluid level. I was looking for the procedure to purge the air from the line............
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Old 11-01-2023, 07:10 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
I found the stock black plastic dipstick made it near impossible to determine the level of fluid in the tank, I made a longer dipstick from a wooden down and put notches in it. It is long enough that I can't drop it in the tank, and gives me a solid clue as to the fluid levels.



Something else you need to watch on these is o-rings that go bad. They are on the top of the pump housing and I keep a few on hand just in-case one were to start leaking. I also know some people that keep a spare shuttle valve on hand, again, just in case. All in all it is a reliable system, but messy when it brakes, which thankfully isn't that often.
Thanks for the tip on making a wooden dipstick!!! I have a set of different size o-rings in storage. I'm gonna have to dig them out and put them in a compartment.......
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Old 11-02-2023, 04:18 PM   #35
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Jeff there is no need to buy HWH fluid, it and Dextron III is nearly the same thing or HWH would not recommend using Dextron ATF.
I think the only difference is HWH fluid is clear, Dextron is red and will stain anything not metal.
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Old 11-02-2023, 04:21 PM   #36
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Jeff there is no need to buy HWH fluid, it and Dextron III is nearly the same thing or HWH would not recommend using Dextron ATF.
I think the only difference is HWH fluid is clear, Dextron is red and will stain anything not metal.
And that is exactly what I bought! I also confirmed with a mechanic friend that Dextron III replaced Dextron II and there is no difference........

All that said, now I have another issue with the system, which I made a new thread about. If you have any advice on that it would be much appreciated, as I am leaving on a trip early tomorrow morning............ ugh.........
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