Micro Minnie Thread

[stoney1]

I just bought and installed the safety struts recommended above. They were an easy install but. I had to drill two smaller pilot holes per bolt first. Tomorrow I'll be attaching about 100# of bicycles /carriers and taking a 150 mile trip. I'll let you know of any problems

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by stoney1

I just bought and installed the safety struts recommended above. They were an easy install but. I had to drill two smaller pilot holes per bolt first. Tomorrow I'll be attaching about 100# of bicycles /carriers and taking a 150 mile trip. I'll let you know of any problems

Have a good trip Stoney. I have one suggestion. You may want to take a silver sharpie and draw witness lines along the backside of the two bumper tongues were they bolt to the trailer frame. See white arrows below. We carried an additional 75 lbs on our bumper the first year we had our Micro. Our bumper started to sag after that first year, this can be seen in the picture also. Our problem appeared to be where the bumper tongue is bolted to the frame, there isn't a lot of metal there. The bolt holes appeared to be starting to elongate letting the bumper sag, we didn't have any issues with the bumper welds.

[Blubugger]

From our earlier "tweets"...we had the exact problem: With added weight of 2 bikes and rack on the stock rear bumper. Over the road bouncing resulted in elongated upper bolt holes on the rear bracket causing the rear bumper to rotate away from the trailer.That was repaired [not under warranty].
It amazes me that with just an additional 1/2" or so MORE metal on that flange, all these problems could be eliminated resulting in many more happy campers. So we wish you luck on the solution and let us know how it works out.

[Robinc]

Saw your post. My wife and I are picking up a new 2019 1808fbs on friday, the one thing I like about the 2020 is the doors like you added, do you happen to know the part number or how to get those doors? I'm planning on adding them to our slide out bench.

Robin

[SonofBert]

Just bought my second 1706fb. 2020 1706fb, the last model year for these. Owned a used 2017 1706fb, sold it for $13.5k, and two years later I have another one for $5k more. I've often been told I have more money than sense, I guess that's an illustration of such. This 2020 is new off the lot and I couldn't get the dealer lower.

1706fb has a lot of nice features that you don't see in other 19' trailers, nice offgrid unit. This one has the factory lift and 235/75/15 tires, I measured 11" ground clearance at the axles and the drain hose, that's pretty good.

There's a lot of nice features in the 1706 to go along with ground clearance - huge fridge/freezer, two sinks, 3-burner stove and oven, furnace ducted into the bathroom, dual axles, huge passthru storage with big doors, big tanks, enclosed underbelly, room on the tongue for two LP tanks and two batteries, walkable roof. You don't get those features on other short offroadable trailers.

Compared to the 2017 (which I paid a shop $1100 to install lift blocks on the axles with 14" tires to get the ground clearance the 2020 has stock), the 2020 has much better locking for the passthru doors.

Better entrance door. The 2017 had a frosted glass window on the entrance door, didn't like that. 2020 has a sliding window on the curbside for the bed, much better for ventilation compared to the tiny tiltout on the 2017.

The dealer was unloading two 2021 1708fb's as i pulled away. I guess the 1708 is 2.5" longer and 300 lbs heavier, LED taillights, factory solar on the roof.

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by SonofBert

2020 has a sliding window on the curbside for the bed, much better for ventilation compared to the tiny tiltout on the 2017.

Except when it starts to rain.

[SonofBert]

Originally Posted by GaryS

Except when it starts to rain.

Yeah, with RV's there's tradeoffs from top to bottom, side to side, front to back. One thing works better in one situation, another better in another situation. Be it windows or the basic choice between Class A, Class B, Class C motorhomes, or trailers.

I'm a great example of going back and forth. Here I am back to owning a 1706fb after selling the same two years ago. Tried Class B VW Eurovan poptops. Great selfcontained hillclimber offroad, great MPG and handling onroad. But no toilet, no shower, no hot water.

Looked at this Roadtrek Class B https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/d/...110760930.html

Sweet selfcontained unit but 7100lbs dry and RWD. I'm not a fan of RWD offroad in a 7100lb van. It has a Positraction rear differential and decent ground clearance but it's not an offroad hillclimber at 7100lbs dry and RWD.

Always tradeoffs getting out and about.

[SonofBert]

Originally Posted by MainelyScott

Mine was doing the same thing, felt tight and didn't move easily. I sprayed it with WD-40 and worked it back and forth until it started to move. After getting it working I sprayed it with white lithium grease, its been fine ever since. Its also a good idea to spray the jacks once in a while too.

A good idea also is to put LocTite on the screws that hold the handles to the dump valves. Generally a good idea with trailers to put LocTite on every screw you can find.

[caladvoc8]

Having trouble finding any online information revealing hitch height of our 2019 2106DS TT with Explorer Pkg. We are unable to get access to our trailer at the moment because our storage facility to remain closed for a bit longer due to local pandemic rules. We need to purchase new ball mount unit for our newly acquired SUV tow vehicle and stumped as to drop/rise needed without crucial hitch height measurement of trailer. We need the distance in inches from ground to bottom edge of trailer hitch coupler when trailer is on level ground. Anybody possibly help us out?

[echomonkey]

Originally Posted by caladvoc8

Having trouble finding any online information revealing hitch height of our 2019 2106DS TT with Explorer Pkg. We are unable to get access to our trailer at the moment because our storage facility to remain closed for a bit longer due to local pandemic rules. We need to purchase new ball mount unit for our newly acquired SUV tow vehicle and stumped as to drop/rise needed without crucial hitch height measurement of trailer. We need the distance in inches from ground to bottom edge of trailer hitch coupler when trailer is on level ground. Anybody possibly help us out?

That sucks not being able to get your camper! I unfortunately do not have that number for you, but you need a lot more than just that number to install a weight distribution hitch, which seems like a good idea if your tow vehicle is anything smaller than a full size truck.

[caladvoc8]

Not looking to install weight distribution hitch. In fact, not recommended for our vehicle. Am looking to install anti-sway control. Regardless, for any ball mount need one that is compatible in height to our trailer's hitch height - distance from ground to lower edge of trailer coupler. I just need that height.

[stoney1]

Wish I could help. My 2106 is not easily accessible either.

[stoney1]

Be real careful with towing your 2106 with a SUV. You should only tow approximately 80% of your vehicles towing capacity. Even after complying with that rule of thumb my GMC Canyon towing my 2106 is pushed around quite a bit by wind and passing trucks.
Happy Trails.

[Blubugger]

Same model [2018 2106ds] and I did not have the tip over problem. But the Murphy bed is a booger to enter and exit [being of ancient age]...one must crawl into and out of bed via the bottom. And those 2 snap-straps tend to popoff once in a while. We were considering reversing the sleeping position [feet towards the front of the trailer. But alas, we got used to these inconveniences and typically sleep pretty well!

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by caladvoc8

Not looking to install weight distribution hitch. In fact, not recommended for our vehicle. Am looking to install anti-sway control..

Out of curiosity, what kind of vehicle would recommend against weight distribution--an F-350? I would think you'd need something rather large to not have it be beneficial with a trailer our size.

Given the measurements you needed I was assuming you were looking to buy an Andersen hitch, which is both a WDH and sway control without bars, and also greaseless at the ball! You could still get the sway control function without having much weight distribution, so you might want to check it out.

[caladvoc8]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Out of curiosity, what kind of vehicle would recommend against weight distribution--an F-350? I would think you'd need something rather large to not have it be beneficial with a trailer our size.

Given the measurements you needed I was assuming you were looking to buy an Andersen hitch, which is both a WDH and sway control without bars, and also greaseless at the ball! You could still get the sway control function without having much weight distribution, so you might want to check it out.

Audi Q7. Factory tow pkg including hitch, tow capacity 7700lbs, tongue weight capacity 700lbs. Shocked to learn after purchase, by reading fine print deep into owner's manual, that WDH verboten. Will be installing anti-sway device, but no weight distribution component.

Since my original post, I learned that the hitch height of my 2019 2106DS is 21"

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by caladvoc8

Audi Q7. Factory tow pkg including hitch, tow capacity 7700lbs, tongue weight capacity 700lbs. Shocked to learn after purchase, by reading fine print deep into owner's manual, that WDH verboten. Will be installing anti-sway device, but no weight distribution component.

Since my original post, I learned that the hitch height of my 2019 2106DS is 21"

Interesting. Does it have a hitch receiver or just some sort of ball setup?

I wonder if an aftermarket receiver would allow WDH? I could see that not all receivers would be designed for that stress.

[caladvoc8]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Interesting. Does it have a hitch receiver or just some sort of ball setup?

I wonder if an aftermarket receiver would allow WDH? I could see that not all receivers would be designed for that stress.

Factory tow pkg, including 2" hitch receiver. An aftermarket hitch receiver to replace the existing one would be possible option, but I don't know if the WDH limitation is a function of the hitch's limitations or of the vehicle's frame to which hitch is attached. The Audi manual simply says "the vehicle is not designed for [WDH] types of trailer hitches." Doesn't say what the design limitation is.

[SonofBert]

Originally Posted by caladvoc8

Factory tow pkg, including 2" hitch receiver. An aftermarket hitch receiver to replace the existing one would be possible option, but I don't know if the WDH limitation is a function of the hitch's limitations or of the vehicle's frame to which hitch is attached. The Audi manual simply says "the vehicle is not designed for [WDH] types of trailer hitches." Doesn't say what the design limitation is.

Probably the unibody. No frame to transfer stress to the front.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by SonofBert

Probably the unibody. No frame to transfer stress to the front.

That makes sense. I wonder if the Honda Ridgeline has a similar restriction.