Micro Minnie Thread - Page 6

schleygo · 09-08-2018, 02:22 PM

Hello Everyone from TX,

First time camper buyer. Wife, toddler and I just bought a 2016 2106FBS bright red and we are excited. The person we bought it from gave us everything he had for the camper. WD hitch, sway bar, 30/50/110V hook ups, hoses, 1500watt power inverter, cleaning supplies, heck.....even the paper plates and cups in the trailer. I guess he was done with camping. He stated only thing he has replaced was a faulty water heater 2 months ago. His loss is our gain.

Question? One thing I noticed is the bright red gel coat is fading in multiple locations. You can see where old vinyl stickers used to be and also where water has dripped down fading the gel coat over the past 2 years. While watching YouTube vids, everyone touts how great the gel coat is on these on resisting UV rays. I was surprised to see how faded it already looked. Obviously, it wasn't a deal breaker and I was an auto detailer in my teens, so I will have to pull out the orbital buffer and get after it.

One more question and I will stop. Any routine maintenance for the roofs of Micros? The seller stated he has done 0 maintenance and has zero leaks. Fortunately, it was pouring rain when I looked at it, so I can confirm.

Thank you and I hope to learn a lot on here

old_engineer · 09-09-2018, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schleygo

Hello Everyone from TX,

First time camper buyer. Wife, toddler and I just bought a 2016 2106FBS bright red and we are excited. The person we bought it from gave us everything he had for the camper. WD hitch, sway bar, 30/50/110V hook ups, hoses, 1500watt power inverter, cleaning supplies, heck.....even the paper plates and cups in the trailer. I guess he was done with camping. He stated only thing he has replaced was a faulty water heater 2 months ago. His loss is our gain.

Question? One thing I noticed is the bright red gel coat is fading in multiple locations. You can see where old vinyl stickers used to be and also where water has dripped down fading the gel coat over the past 2 years. While watching YouTube vids, everyone touts how great the gel coat is on these on resisting UV rays. I was surprised to see how faded it already looked. Obviously, it wasn't a deal breaker and I was an auto detailer in my teens, so I will have to pull out the orbital buffer and get after it.

One more question and I will stop. Any routine maintenance for the roofs of Micros? The seller stated he has done 0 maintenance and has zero leaks. Fortunately, it was pouring rain when I looked at it, so I can confirm.

Thank you and I hope to learn a lot on here

Congratulations on the trailer. We have the 2106FBS and really like it.

I can't answer the gel coat question.

For roof maintenance waiting for leaks isn't maintenance. You should get up on the roof at lease twice a year to inspect the sealant for any cracks, bubbling or lifting. Look for any damage to the roof membrane as well. You should also check the sealant along the roof and gutter seams. Don't forget to inspect the slide roof and seals as well. A bit of buckling or looseness of the roof membrane is normal along the roof seams to allow for expansion. There are a lot of videos on the web that show how to inspect and service the roof.

According to what I was told by Winnebago they use Dicor self leveling sealant for the roof surfaces and Geocell 2300 for everything else. My gutter to roof uses the Geocell product.

I start with cleaning the roof well. I use a soft car brush and a mixture of Dawn dish soap. Just don't use anything too strong. For any additional cleaning use denatured alcohol on a rag. For small cracks where the sealant is still tightly attached to the roof and other material I just goop some new sealant over it. The same goes for small bubbles that you might have over screw heads. I cut out the bubble and add new sealant. For sealant detachment or large cracks I carefully use a plastic putty knife to remove all of the sealant, clean well with alcohol and apply new sealant. I've found loose sealant along the gutters usually just pulls off for the full length so I remove it all, clean and apply new sealant.

If I were to find any tears I would use Eternabond sealant tape to cover the tear for a permanent fix. Likewise if I have any problem areas like our old trailer had I would use Eternabond instead of resealing. All I did on it was trim the existing sealant to get a straight edge and fairly smooth surface along the roof molding and apply the tape. When I replace our bathroom vent with a Fantastic Fan I will probably use Eternabond tape as well even though it will make future replacement a bit harder.

You will also need to inspect the sealant on the exterior walls, trim, running lights, etc as these can dry out and allow water in. On the gel coat I use mineral spirits and a plastic putty knife to remove the old sealant then clean with denatured alcohol. I then reseal using Geocel RV Pro. It costs a bit more but sticks well and doesn't dry out quickly. I also used it instead of their 2300 product when I resealed my gutter to roof joint due to bubbling of the original sealant. Do not use silicone as it can never be removed fully and doesn't stick well to many of the materials use on the exterior of the trailer. Again there are videos on the internet for all of this as well.

schleygo · 09-09-2018, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_engineer

Congratulations on the trailer. We have the 2106FBS and really like it.

I can't answer the gel coat question.

For roof maintenance waiting for leaks isn't maintenance. You should get up on the roof at lease twice a year to inspect the sealant for any cracks, bubbling or lifting. Look for any damage to the roof membrane as well. You should also check the sealant along the roof and gutter seams. Don't forget to inspect the slide roof and seals as well. A bit of buckling or looseness of the roof membrane is normal along the roof seams to allow for expansion. There are a lot of videos on the web that show how to inspect and service the roof.

According to what I was told by Winnebago they use Dicor self leveling sealant for the roof surfaces and Geocell 2300 for everything else. My gutter to roof uses the Geocell product.

I start with cleaning the roof well. I use a soft car brush and a mixture of Dawn dish soap. Just don't use anything too strong. For any additional cleaning use denatured alcohol on a rag. For small cracks where the sealant is still tightly attached to the roof and other material I just goop some new sealant over it. The same goes for small bubbles that you might have over screw heads. I cut out the bubble and add new sealant. For sealant detachment or large cracks I carefully use a plastic putty knife to remove all of the sealant, clean well with alcohol and apply new sealant. I've found loose sealant along the gutters usually just pulls off for the full length so I remove it all, clean and apply new sealant.

If I were to find any tears I would use Eternabond sealant tape to cover the tear for a permanent fix. Likewise if I have any problem areas like our old trailer had I would use Eternabond instead of resealing. All I did on it was trim the existing sealant to get a straight edge and fairly smooth surface along the roof molding and apply the tape. When I replace our bathroom vent with a Fantastic Fan I will probably use Eternabond tape as well even though it will make future replacement a bit harder.

You will also need to inspect the sealant on the exterior walls, trim, running lights, etc as these can dry out and allow water in. On the gel coat I use mineral spirits and a plastic putty knife to remove the old sealant then clean with denatured alcohol. I then reseal using Geocel RV Pro. It costs a bit more but sticks well and doesn't dry out quickly. I also used it instead of their 2300 product when I resealed my gutter to roof joint due to bubbling of the original sealant. Do not use silicone as it can never be removed fully and doesn't stick well to many of the materials use on the exterior of the trailer. Again there are videos on the internet for all of this as well.

Thank you for all the great info Old_engineer. Both sealants were just ordered and my project next week.

I just can't believe the gel coat on a 2 yr old trailer looks so weathered already. I was disappointed since the interior on the Micros are so nice.

bricrum · 09-10-2018, 09:03 PM

Hello folks,

I have a Micro Minnie 2100BH and am having problems getting sound for the inside speakers when using the DVD player. The Jensen system we have has 3 zones - zone C is outside, zones A & B are inside. For the DVD player, zone C works just fine (the one we don't want sound on), but when Zone A and/or B is selected we can't get any sound. Any ideas on what I might be doing incorrectly?

Note that the inside speakers do produce sound when using the TV watching over the air stations, the issue appears to be just with the DVD player.

Thanks for any help you can offer!

dragontower · 09-12-2018, 12:28 AM

Just purchased this trailer a month ago through craigslist!
Haven't dewinterized the trailer yet to even discover if the water pump and water heater are working! Although for as new and little used as this trailer is, I am sure there are many hours of use left within!

Come the the last week or so of this month, Sept. 2018, I plan on doing just that and then taking a trip to https://goo.gl/maps/zBMvMsE36bw

Only question I have is, has anyone attempted to install solar panels to the aluminum frame roof of one of these yet?

I'm not asking about VHB tape, I'm sure it's great and all but I am looking to do something a little more permanent.
My panels are 190W each, and they are quite large in surface area.
I will have to remove the TV antenna to install a panel on the right side and I would have to raise the panel over the fridge vent on the left side.
The only space left for the size of panels that I have, I would have to come up with some type of elongated mounting set up for a panel to rest on the front of the trailer.
Although, a panel does just about fit between the mid and rear MaxxAir Vent Covers. I wonder if adjusting either or both would allow a panel to fit?
That would certainly alleviate having to come up with some type of extended support to mount a panel on the front.

Anyway, just wanted to chime in and see if anyone else has any experience that would help with my inexperience!

Happy to Learn!
Happy to Help!

Badlands Bob · 09-13-2018, 08:59 PM

You have aluminum wall framing but your roof may be wood trusses. You can remove the trim around your roof fan and see.

WannaWinnie · 09-15-2018, 04:40 PM

We went to Timberlake RV in Lynchburg VA. Very easy going dealership. No hassles. There were a couple of things i noticed while looking at the 2306BHS in person that i couldn't tell from photos.

- Dual Torsion Axles. Yes! Lippert stickers on them.
- Very sturdy rear bumper. I stepped on it on my way up to the roof
- Front storage compartments (under murphy bed) are really much bigger in person than they appear in the pictures.
- Saw the gaps between the screen windows and the frames. maybe they are not installed correctly as the one next to the couch/door was inserted into the frame, but the others seemed put on differently.
- Dinette was wide enough for two adults to sit next to each other comfortably.
- Big storage under each dinette seat and thick (maybe 3/4") plywood for each seat under surface. I like the idea of ordering another of the same door panel used next to the media player and adding it as a door to the dinette.
- Couch was really cushy and comfortable
- Bedside clothes compartments were bigger in person as well.
- The fresh water tank is mounted just in front of the axles where you'd want it. Then Grey, then black moving front to back.
- The mattress felt too firm, but is a regular mattress. Can add a foam topper to fix that.
- The cabinets were all bigger in person than in photos. Pantry below the TV goes all the way back to the sidewall.
- Plastic toilet (looked like a 300 series dometic), maybe there is enough clearance for the porcelain one later.
- Didn't care for the black finish appliances. Wish there was a Stainless option.
- TV did not appear to be on a swivel, but you can always change that.
- No AC vent in the top bunk. However, bunks have pretty good height, i think our two 9/11 yr olds would be able to sit up in them.
- BAL frame means it rides lower with lower center of gravity vs some other campers.

Cheers,
Mike

joeclorite · 10-21-2018, 09:39 PM

Quick Question;
I have a 2108 DS with the house 12V Battery (AC Delco). I spent my 1st trip last week without hookups and I only got about 1 1/2 days before the battery was dead. I charged it up with my idling Tow Vehicle for about an hour but the battery would only hold a charge for about 30 min.

I only used 3 LED lights, Radio, Gas Furnace and Gas Fridge.
Is this normal for a house battery?

TrailerDon · 10-21-2018, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeclorite

Quick Question;
I have a 2108 DS with the house 12V Battery (AC Delco). I spent my 1st trip last week without hookups and I only got about 1 1/2 days before the battery was dead. I charged it up with my idling Tow Vehicle for about an hour but the battery would only hold a charge for about 30 min.

I only used 3 LED lights, Radio, Gas Furnace and Gas Fridge.
Is this normal for a house battery?

I was advised by a friend of mine who has had a lot of experience with boats and trailers who advised by to opt for the two 6 volt battery setup over the standard 12 volt battery. As he explained to me that 12 volt batteries must not be run down to the point the battery is dead, if that happens there is a very good chance the battery will be ruined. The 6 volt battery on the other hand is not as likely to be damaged if they are severely drained, the 6 volt battery will also unually last longer than a 12volt battery before needing to be replaced.

Bigearl · 10-22-2018, 06:05 AM

Joe, 1 1/2 days seems right given the accessories you used. The big drain is from the furnace fan, so depending on how much of the time the furnace was on will really govern the drain on the battery. I have dual 12v batteries for this exact reason and from past experience, dry camping in cold temperatures, you need to recharge daily. I used two 40 watt solar panels which is OK if you have plenty of sunshine during the day.
Recharging with an idling tow vehicle for an hour will not generally get the battery charged as the amperage getting to the battery is limited by the charging circuitry. You may also have a problem battery, you need a deep cycle RV or marine battery and I would recommend dual batteries as the microminnie has space for them. I dry camped this past September for 3 days without a problem but the weather was warm enough that I did not use the furnace on this occasion so no need for the solar panels.
Hope this helps.

old_engineer · 10-22-2018, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeclorite

Quick Question;
I have a 2108 DS with the house 12V Battery (AC Delco). I spent my 1st trip last week without hookups and I only got about 1 1/2 days before the battery was dead. I charged it up with my idling Tow Vehicle for about an hour but the battery would only hold a charge for about 30 min.

I only used 3 LED lights, Radio, Gas Furnace and Gas Fridge.
Is this normal for a house battery?

As was stated an hour on your tow vehicle isn't long enough to charge it. Also if you tow with a 2015 or newer F150 the aux line is no longer intended to charge the trailer battery. It is only intended to maintain a charged battery and run low current things like the refrigerator control board. I believe this is also applicable to the F250 and F350 but don't know what year it was introduced to these models.

McTrailer · 10-29-2018, 08:27 AM

Bought a 2100bh and it’s great so far, except for being a lemon lol

Issues:
-brake light wiring was wired backwards
-slideout likes to go crooked
-the kitchen sink faucets were not secured
-the dometic havoc control unit was faulty
-some minor leaks at the storage doors
-entry screen door wasn’t square
-speakers are incredibly weak
-small tearing away from ceiling and wall trim at slide out

Other then that, the size is absolutely perfect, the frame is very stable, it has nearly every amenity you could ask for.

My dealer is absolutely useless. I’ve overheard their service guys complain about repair requests and off-hand state they would charge extra for parts in retaliation.

We get a lot of compliments on the Minnie

Photog100 · 11-03-2018, 02:27 PM

I'm sure that many would think I'm crazy to want to lower a 2108DS with the Off Road Package.
Here's my situation: I have access to a heated storage building with a 10 foot opening. I've narrowed my search for a trailer to the 2108DS. Many of the 2108DS's in my area have the Off Road Package which puts the height a little over 10 feet. My understanding is that the Off Road Package is comprised of 15 inch wheels and a spacer on the axle. I've also been told that the 2108DS frame has bolt holes for three ride heights and that all 2108DS's come from the factory at the highest ride height.

What would be the best way to lower the trailer 2-3 inches to get it in the storage building: remove the spacer or move down one bolt hole on the frame.

I would appreciate any help.

McTrailer · 11-03-2018, 04:15 PM

Can u access an unlifted one and measure it first?

Photog100 · 11-04-2018, 01:10 PM

2108DS without off-road package- 9'8"
2108DS with off-road package- 10'1"

jenilinsky · 11-05-2018, 09:11 PM

I have a 2017 1700BH and haven't used it much so far. Seems like there's so much to learn. I'm confused about what things in the trailer run on the battery? Thanks!

Scott · 11-06-2018, 06:36 PM

Helpful hints

GaryS · 11-06-2018, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jenilinsky

I have a 2017 1700BH and haven't used it much so far. Seems like there's so much to learn. I'm confused about what things in the trailer run on the battery? Thanks!

It's easier to name the things that don't run on the battery:

- Outlets
- Microwave
- TV
- Water heater (when not set to LP)
- Refrigerator (when not set to LP)

jenilinsky · 11-07-2018, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryS

It's easier to name the things that don't run on the battery:

- Outlets
- Microwave
- TV
- Water heater (when not set to LP)
- Refrigerator (when not set to LP)

This isn't helpful! What's left?

old_engineer · 11-07-2018, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jenilinsky

This isn't helpful! What's left?

All lighting, water pump, refrigerator & water heater control boards, furnace blower & controls, stove vent fan/light, USB charge ports, awning, power jack, etc. Basically anything that isn't an exclusively AC appliance will run off the 12V system.