Water pump replacement 2015 Aspect 30J

[Dbday]

Replaced burnt out Shureflo fresh water pump and working fine now except when i turn on tap at the washroom sink. The pump, rather than run steady while the tap is on, it surges.... off, on, off, on, off, on.......all the time the tap is open. Kitchen tap, shower, toilet and outside shower all run smoothly. There is also a distinct noise, like the ratteling of pipes, in the area of the hot water tank (sorry, no tank... hot water on demand)..... The hot water works fine at the sink and the shower and outside shower as well. I have scanned the plumbing diagrams for my coach (2015 Aspect 30J) and come away none the wiser...... also there is no diagram for the plumbing of "on demand" hot water plumbing. Any suggestions what I should be looking for/at?

[TravatoJohn]

DbDay, more than likely your strainer on the bathroom sink is clogged with debris from system. Remove the strainer and run the pump to see if that corrects the problem. Travato John

[Dbday]

this is the strainer in the tap itself. Felt for that but didn't try to remove it because it didn't seem to simply unscrew and come out....... will check again and report back. Thanks for the suggestion. Don

[creativepart]

Yes, on the end of the faucet. You may need to use pliers to unscrew it. But put a rag or cloth between the pliers and the strainer and don't squeeze too hard on the the pliers you can deform the round shape.

[Eagle5]

Hi Dbday,
If you still have surging after the strainer at the sink is cleaned-out, then you might consider this gadget:
Water Pump Variable Speed Controller for a 22M
Eagle5

[Dbday]

any attempts to remove screen have failed. It is flush with the tap and no place to grip and unscrew with pliers. tired rubber gloves hoping to just get a grip on the ring and unscrew it, maybe even with fingertips, but no luck. i then probed thru' the small holes in the "grill" or screen only to find that there is another screen inside of that. Wondering....is it necessary to have a screen at all? Does the screen act as a restrainer for pressure from the instant hot water supply. I know that I have a "hot water on demand" in my shop and found that unless it has an aerator restrainer on the end of the tap nozzle, the water will not heat up because it flows too fast. If it's not necessary, why not just eliminate the screen and let the water run freely? I appreciate the feed back so far and look forward to more ideas. Thanx Don

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Dbday

any attempts to remove screen have failed. It is flush with the tap and no place to grip and unscrew with pliers. tired rubber gloves hoping to just get a grip on the ring and unscrew it, maybe even with fingertips, but no luck. i then probed thru' the small holes in the "grill" or screen only to find that there is another screen inside of that. Wondering....is it necessary to have a screen at all? Does the screen act as a restrainer for pressure from the instant hot water supply. I know that I have a "hot water on demand" in my shop and found that unless it has an aerator restrainer on the end of the tap nozzle, the water will not heat up because it flows too fast. If it's not necessary, why not just eliminate the screen and let the water run freely? I appreciate the feed back so far and look forward to more ideas. Thanx Don

OK, can't remove. Next best is to find a small container that will fit so the strainer will be submerged in vinegar. Fix it so it will remain that way overnight. Next morning all mineral scale should be dissolved from the strainer/aerator.
If that fails, you may have to resort to removing the faucet and use compressed air to blow backwards through the strainer.
OTOH, you can remove the screen, the only difference will be the water is not aerated, and will splash much more.

One time we bought a new 5er and the faucets reduced to a trickle in a few days.
After much consternation, I spotted a clear plastic shaving in one of the strainers.
Apparently during assembly, someone drilled holes in the fresh water tank for plumbing and forgot to remove the shavings from the tank afterwards.

[Morich]

Before beating the removal too much if it is not a problem to bother flow, Imight try a bit different track. Save the hard stuff for later and only if needed???

There should be an adjustment on the pump which will change the cycle timing and "may" give a satisfactory run time.
My thinking may run along the line that there will be differences in hopw much flow each faucet will give, due to different design as well as different plumbing pathes.
So if one faucet seems to be the trouble point, it may not actually be that speciifc faucet, so trying to reset the pressur eon the pump may let you find some tiny change gets you a better performance on all faucets.

Did you get directions with the new pump that might point out the adjustment screw? Usually not hard to spto when looking at the pump as it is about the only little screw head that shows up and seems to not have any other use? But if the pump is installed and facing away from you, it sometimes is a trick to locate the small screw hidden on the back side!
Maybe worth trying to change the pressure settting as it determines how often the pump cycles. The cycle is then what you hear as the pump turns on/shuts off.

It may take some play or it may never resolve the problem but just a different idea to try?
Life seems better if we try all the solutions before quitting!

[Dbday]

First of all .... thnx to all who extended advise on my little dilema. Problem solved (sort of). The surge in flow was due to air leak between tank and pump. The pump was basically sucking air and water at the same time at the 90 degree elbow connector going into the pump. Solution: and small rubber washer and teflon plumber's tape. The bathroom tap still spits away (off and on) when I turn it on but I am convinced that it is dirt that is interrupting the flow. I have not given up on trying to get the screen and arriator out. The local RV dealer gave me an idea for removing it and if it works, I'll pass on the info. Once again..... thanks for your help

[Morich]

Can you pass along the build date for your speciifc RV? That should be on the label near the driver's side. With that info we can do a close look at what type faucet and strainer you have and possibly add some ideas to get it off.
The problem without the date is that there are several different builds for that year, model of RV and some do involve the plumbing.
I may have located the corrrect one as it shows a tankless water heater as option "1BT". Not getting confusion in "tankless" and "on demand" being used for the same thing?

Is this an option listed on the options sheet that you should have gotten with the RV?

If following several guesses on which exact Rv , this may be the faucet and strainer involved? Check before trusting!
Does this look like what you see?



If correct, so far, I might go with simply wrenching the strainer out as it appears to be a pretty standard one to replace fairly cheaply at the big box stores!
If not getting it out, I don't fight them too long to try to preserve the finish as my time is too important on 5-10 dollar items! It should just unscrew but have a way of not doing what they should!

[Dbday]

Originally Posted by Dbday

First of all .... thnx to all who extended advise on my little dilema. Problem solved (sort of). The surge in flow was due to air leak between tank and pump. The pump was basically sucking air and water at the same time at the 90 degree elbow connector going into the pump. Solution: and small rubber washer and teflon plumber's tape. The bathroom tap still spits away (off and on) when I turn it on but I am convinced that it is dirt that is interrupting the flow. I have not given up on trying to get the screen and arriator out. The local RV dealer gave me an idea for removing it and if it works, I'll pass on the info. Once again..... thanks for your help

Finally solved my plugged faucet problem and want to share my experience in the hopes that someone else may find this useful....... First off...thank you everyone for your input and suggestions. The faucet strainer was definately plugged (solid) as suggested. Replacing it was the problem and none of the suggestions worked. Here is the solution - underside of the faucet has a plastic cover that makes it impossible to grasp the strainer nozzle with a pair of pliers because it is recessed back up inside this cover. I found that with a small screwdriver, this cover could be pryed open wide enough to grip the strainer with pliers so that it can be unscrewed and replaced. I took three pictures that might better explain the process, however cannot find a way to download them here on the site. If anyone is interested.... would be happy to share. Thanks again everyone. Don

[Dbday]

Originally Posted by Morich

Can you pass along the build date for your speciifc RV? That should be on the label near the driver's side. With that info we can do a close look at what type faucet and strainer you have and possibly add some ideas to get it off.
The problem without the date is that there are several different builds for that year, model of RV and some do involve the plumbing.
I may have located the corrrect one as it shows a tankless water heater as option "1BT". Not getting confusion in "tankless" and "on demand" being used for the same thing?

Is this an option listed on the options sheet that you should have gotten with the RV?

If following several guesses on which exact Rv , this may be the faucet and strainer involved? Check before trusting!
Does this look like what you see?
Attachment 186959
Attachment 186960

If correct, so far, I might go with simply wrenching the strainer out as it appears to be a pretty standard one to replace fairly cheaply at the big box stores!
If not getting it out, I don't fight them too long to try to preserve the finish as my time is too important on 5-10 dollar items! It should just unscrew but have a way of not doing what they should!

to Morich..... yes, this is the faucet HOWEVER, the strainer is recessed up inside a plastic cover on the underside of the faucet and cannot be gripped with pliers.

[Morich]

YUP! The best laid plans have a way of going bad....
There are times when we need all the help we can find and getting a tiny little thing like a stopped up aerator out should not be such a trick!
There is a tool that might/could work on some faucets.
It is designed for getting broken metal pipe nipples out of fitting like those set back in a wall?
It is a gizmo that you can stick in the opening of a broken nipple and as you turn it counter clock, it works to grip the inner surface harder and harder as you turn.
If the open is the right size and you can get the tool up into it, then it can grip the stuck item hard enough to unscrew it!

Pipe nipple extractor set!

Life should not have to be that hard but small plumbing has a way of driving us insane!

[Ray,IN]

How did soaking the strainer in a small container of vinegar work out? No small container? pour some vinegar in a zip-lock bag.
But it will take overnight for the vinegar to dissolve hard water deposits.