10 gal. Atwood not working 2008 Adventurer 38'

[empty_nest]

My hot water heater will not work on either propane nor electric. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[Eagle5]

Hi empty_nest,
This twelve years old thread seems to hold a few good things to check upon, including a link to a PDF file with troubleshooting:
Atwood Water Heater
Eagle5

[creativepart]

If it's not working on gas or electric then check the Thermal cutoff diode.

You can easily test it. I posted a photo below and circled the cutoff diode. you'll see there is a brown wired attached to the end of the cutoff. The other end of the cutoff is attached to a tab on the WH body.

You can easily bypass the cutoff and you'll know immediately if that's the issue.

Just pull the cutoff in it's plastic tube off of the tab on the WH and remove the brown wire clip on the end of the cutoff.

That brown wire's clip is made to fit the tab on the WH body where the cutoff was attached. So just slip the brown wire to the tab on the WH body.

You have now bypassed the thermal cutoff. Try the WH on Propane and you'll know right away if that diode had blown. It's like a fuse only works on heat and once it "blows" it blocks power to the circuit board.

You can run your WH with the diode bypassed but it's a safety item and you should replace it. They are available everywhere RV parts are sold and on Amazon.

Here's the photo:

[creativepart]

All this assumes you know how to access your WH on an Adventurer. Most are located behind a body panel with only an exhaust vent and and lower intake vent visible.

Under the bottom edge of the body panel is a couple of screws that secure the body panel over the actual WH. Remove those screws and the body panel is hinged at the top and will lift up to reveal the door to the water heater.

[tim myers]

Also if the thermal cut out has blown there is a reason. This thermister serves the same purpose as a rollout flame sensor on your residential furnace. They are in the circuit to interrupt gas flow if the flame has rolled out of the combustion tube.

[creativepart]

It can also be a dripping pressure regulator. The regulator is located directly above the Thermal Cutoff diode. Drips on the cutoff can trigger a shutdown.

My thermal cutoff blew regularly. I went through 4 of them and always carry a spare. The reason was never determined. But each thermal cutoff replacement you buy comes with a coil of extra brown lead wire. I used it to move my cutoff about 3" to the right and have never blown another diode since.

But you are right Tim, if you are bypassing the cutoff you should only use the WH on electric and not on Propane until that device is replaced.

[tim myers]

My issue was that there wasn't adequate combustion air entering the WH. While running with the door closed I could hear the burner surging, with the door open it was smooth as silk.Mine has the splitter device that allows fresh air in one side and exhaust air out the other side, and that was just not working as it should. I ended up cutting an opening and installing a screen that allowed more fresh air into the WH.

[empty_nest]

Thanks for all the good advise. Turns out the thermostats were bad. We're back in business 'cause cold showers suck!