Atwood Water Heater

[1oldbanker]

We have a 2007 Itasca Sunrise with a 10 gallon Atwood water heater that no longer will heat with electric. Additionally, it will not light either with propane although I can hear the it trying to light. It is a combination gas/electric heater with electronic ignition. I assume that it needs a replacement heating element but can't find any information on the internet that helps to describe the location and and instructions as to how to replace the heating element. Hate to go to a dealer without some basic knowledge and still hope that it is something a novice can replace.

Any help would sure be appreciated.

[DancinCampers]

Can you post your model number? Atwood has changed their circuitry, combining the safety devices to control both gas and electric side.

On the older model, the 110V goes from your breaker panel, thru wall switch, thru small switch on back of heater, thru tstat, thru ECO, then to element.

There is a metal box on back on heater which covers the element, tstat and ECO. On the side of the cover is a small on/off switch. On mine, this switch burned out, I took it out of circuit. There is a small hole in the metal cover, over the ECO. The ECO is resetable, by inserting a pencil eraser end and resetting the small white button.

Hopefully you have easy access to the back of heater. I had to remove mine in order to fix.

The element, if bad, is similar to home unit. Hardest part is gaining access.

[1oldbanker]

Thanks for your response. The model number is GCH10A-4E. I have crawled under the MH and there is no easy way to get to anything without removing first the cover and then whatever is behind it. Looks like a project that awaits me. Due to age, size and bad back, may have to hire someone to do it.

[AFChap]

Bad heating element would not affect LP operation, so IF the element is bad there is still another problem with the LP side -- not at all impossible but I wouldn't just jump in and replace the element w/o making sure it is part of the problem. The only problems we've had with ours in 7 yrs and many miles of fulltiming has been bad thermal cut-off (many times), dirty connection on thermal cut-off, flashback melted wiring due to a spider web in the burner tube, and leaky tank. I have known several who had to re-set the ECO.

[Tom-NC]

Hi,

Sorry to hear about your problem however I wouldn't jump to change the element just yet until you make a few more tests.

What strikes me odd is that both went out at the same time which leads me to try to find out what is common to both functions. I would maybe check the 12v function as I'm sure 12VDC is required for both phases of operation. I would also make sure that none of the 110V breakers are popped.

Last thing I would do is call Winnebago in Forest City and ask them to help solve the problem. They have been very good helping me with variouys problems. Telephone 1-800-537-1885 and make sure you have your coach serial number handy.

Good luck and I hope you will post what the problem was.

[desertvince]

Just had a mobile RV repairman out to fix my water heater. The electric was still working but LP would not light. First thing he did was start making sure all the wires were connected...one was loose. LP kicked in immediately. Min. service call...$45. Hey, we all know they are expensive toys!

[FDchief]

As others have said, the LP function has nothing to do with the 110V operation. You will have a circuit breaker that is accessible at the rear of the WH. This is notorious for popping due to the heat generated by the Winnebago motoraid heating system. Mine did it twice when new, then no more. The WH has always worked great for me other than the popping of the circuit breaker. Don't forget to flush it annually.

[DancinCampers]

I believe you have a newer model, one which does away with 120V remote switch. You need to check the schematic. The new models use a 12v relay to activate 120V element. Also, both LP and A/C use one set of tstat/ECO, mounted on front of unit.

The gas valve is wired directly to PC board, thru ECO. The tstat and thermal cut-off are not wired to either gas valve or A/C element, but rather from PC board and back to PC board.

Check and see if the ECO has a reset button between the contacts.

[Triker56]

Manual 10 gal Atwood in PDF with trouble shooting.

[bobmac]

The common elements to your problem (LP & 110heater) are the circuit board and the 12volt wiring. 110V gets to the element through a relay controled by the circiuit board as does gas to the burner. Check your 12 v wiring for continuity carefully as well as the 12v fuse(s) for the HWH controls. If you are not successful, you could have a board problem.


Bob

[bachler]

The 110 has a hookup on the rear of the tank I had to replace the Knife blades on mine It is a little on the chinsie side , but what can one say;; That is on the 110 side . The gas/propane is a different matter . Were it mine I would make sure it's shut off then take a small tooth brush or a SS kitchen brush and clean the little flat plates on the end of the nozzle; They are quite Simple. They only get confused by people trying to repair the Wrong thing.. Life is good;

[1oldbanker]

Thanks to all that replied along with their suggestions. Bobmac hit the nail on the head with his analysis. After contacting a local RV technician, he came and the first thing he checked was the circuit board and determined that it was faulty. He ordered one and had it within a couple days and installed it in 10 minutes and everything worked. Because the circuit board was on the front of the heater, labor cost was minimal. With two visits that required him driving about 80 miles, the total cost of the part, tax, overnight delivery and labor was $471.00. The new circuit board was quite pricey but what is one to do. Now all is well in this household and hope that our annual visit to Florida for the winter has no more unpleasant surprises.

1oldbanker