85 Winnebago Elandan 35ft'er

[core]

Brian S. First of let me congratulate you on your purchase. Elandans are the kings of the roads even though I call mine a she I to am a first time coach owner and loving it even with the problems. Problems help me keep my thumb from being in the middle of my hand

Please post some pics of her when you can. At the moment I am trying to figure out a minor drip leak above the toilette from the roof. My whole roof was redone before my purchase but still a small drip from somewhere. I bought some silicone and a can of upholstery glue

Installing new running lights atm on the front and rear roof ends, the 5 lights thing. Just finished installing my satelite radio. BTW she ran wonderfully on a smaller trip of 350 miles to Barstow and back a few weeks ago. I feel like a king driving her on the road.

Did notice the plastic cover sitting above the oven exhast vent wanted to be a bird without wings and splashed down all over the freeway while driving. Im building a new vent in wood with a plastic paint layer over it. Better than these plastic covers

Anyways I have a lot of nice schematics some most posted in this thread already. If you need any pointers or help let me know.

PS: Installed a secondary main battery ontop of the main battery in the engine compartment. Helps for when she stands longer periods without start. Still working on the fuel tank selector valve though, it is driving me crazy what they did with her fuellines. Disconnected most and clamped a pensil in one, yes a pensil

GL on your Elandan, they rule!

/Mike

[cook elandan]

hey good to see another owner getting on board.
core--- was thinking about adding more battery power also but looking at their placement along side with the other coach batteries. thinking about making the slides longer forthe extra batteries.
starfire---also wanting to put in new floors but trying to see how far to install them...whole floor or just in dinning and seating area...
brian---glad to have any input that you have also...
---as for me--- still working on engine and trany rebuild... working to get more power and mpg...
core---did you track you mpg on your last trip...
thanks
darrin

[cook elandan]

hey guys, another question if you might know...the previous owner keep a good log of everything that they done to the coach... reading through it they replace the clutch fan about 10 times over the years...high revs the problem i think...looking to install electric fans...think that front of the radiator or behind radiator would be best??
thanks

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by cook elandan

hey guys, another question if you might know...the previous owner keep a good log of everything that they done to the coach... reading through it they replace the clutch fan about 10 times over the years...high revs the problem i think...looking to install electric fans...think that front of the radiator or behind radiator would be best??
thanks

Neither.........NO electric fan on the market will pull as much air as a well setup engine fan, Make sure it's a 7 blade fan.
Next is to check and make sure your fan is about 2 thirds of the way into the shroud.
Now if you really want to install electric fan/s make them pullers behind the rad....

Jim

[cook elandan]

jim, thanks for the reply, just trying to keep from replacing the clutch all the time...it is a 7 blade and in the shroud...if i do go with the electric fans will have two and highest cfm that can find.

[StarfireGuy]

Originally Posted by cook elandan

starfire---also wanting to put in new floors but trying to see how far to install them...whole floor or just in dinning and seating area...
darrin

Hey Darrin,

Here is my plan at the moment.

Driver/Passenger/Engine Cover = re-carpet (burbor probably)
Living area = Wood Laminate
Kitchen = Stone Laminate stone/slate tile look
Hallway = Same as above
Bathroom = Same as above
Bedroom = Wood Laminate

I might just do the wood laminate throughout. I am pretty sure the only carpet will be in the driving area only.

Chris

[cook elandan]

starfire---sound and sure will look nice on you floor plan..

[Brian S]

It was good to find you guys. I'm sure I will have a ton of questions once I get to the point of camping. I have no idea what the control panel does. Well maybe a little. I do have the manual for it though.

Mine pulled about 8-10 miles per gallon on the trip home from the seller. It hasn't been driven much since then. I bought an Edelbrock 1411 carburator and installed it. It is a 1407 calibrated 2% leaner for fuel economy. I'll check back and let you know if it helps. I tried changing the exhaust manifold bolts myself. The muffler shops didn't want to touch the bolts because they break. Did all the research about presoaking with PB Blaster. It is a bunch of bunk. I went out and bought an air compressor and impact wrench. Managed to get two bolts out myself but the rest were stuck good. Seems the previous owner had used anti sieze on the bolts and over time it turned into glue. NEVER use anti sieze on manifold bolts. Just put a bit of motor oil on them and loosen and re tourque them every couple of years. Anyway, I hired a couple of shade tree mechanics to come out and remove the heads to take them to the machine shop. They decided to give it a go removing the bolts instead. They heated them red hot with a propane torch. While they were red hot, they hammered a socket on them (I rounded the bolt heads). They cranked the compressor up to 120 psi and after a bit of banging the bolts came out in one piece. None broke.

The leak had been there so long it wore a grove in the exhaust manifold so I needed a new one. The old one would not seal up. So I decided to buy headers. No need for Thorleys. Any long tube header will do if you have a cutting torch. The stock exhaust manifold is very restrictive with those air injection tubes. I bought a set off ebay for $150 and paid another $350 to get them installed. The headers were for a 1970 to 1979 Camaro or Chevelle. I figured the Winnie has more room under the hood than a car so fitting wouldn't be a problem. They did have to notch the motor mounts for clearance, but you had to do that with the cars too. You need to know if you have square port or round port heads. Round ports are pretty rare and were prized by hot rodders for their low end torque. On my 1987 34', they put a round port engine in it. My buddy's 1985 30' has square port heads. Anyway, I am finally past that. Now I just need to get the melted wires fixed and do some heat shielding.

Brian

[core]

Brian S - I believe mine pulled about 7-8m / gallon though I was pressing her on the way back to 70 to try her out. She pulled past big rigs like they were standing still. Basically I played to see if anything would fail. With about 44k miles on it this engine still runs like new.

Cook - I have heard that a good fanshroud is better than a good fan most of the times. Check your radiator airflow periodically. See to it that the blades on the radiator is not clogged with junk and leaves preventing the airflow.

Starfire - Man Im jealous of you. Wish I had resources to replace the floors. Upgrading the floors from the carpet or just installing new floors I would think would make her look like any modern couch out there. Floors do a lot. You must post pics once your done, can't wait to see it.

Butterbean - Welcome to our little Elandan get together Always good to see new faces, hrm...names in here

/Mike

[JimElliott]

Originally Posted by cook elandan

jim, thanks for the reply, just trying to keep from replacing the clutch all the time...it is a 7 blade and in the shroud...if i do go with the electric fans will have two and highest cfm that can find.

Cook, Been thinking about your constant clutch fan replacements which can be a "PITA" to change out....
About 7 years ago I changed mine out with a super duty/heavy clutch from "Star auto parts" and last summer I felt it was going out.
As a test (non moving RV) the engine was run at various speeds 1000/2000 RPM with the dash air on and when the temp reached 210º (mechanical and electrical gauges) the fan would kick in and drop it down to 185º (perfect IMHO).
Also installed is a "Stewart 180º" thermostat which allows the engine to cruise down the "Super slab" at 62 MPH at and around 185º and pulls 190º on moderate hills......
I know it's kinda tuff to get the up to high temps during the cold winter months BUT by blocking your cooling system you can duit.

Jim

[Peter_Crowl]

Hi Guys,
Looks like I missed this thread.
I have an '84 Elandan '32.
I really like it - but then I've pretty much gutted it as the PO smoked - a lot- and nothing I did got the smell out. So it's getting new flooring, wall treatment, furniture, beds, so on, so forth...

I've done the same manifold job Brian has - but mine went a lot easier. She runs great. Emissions are very good - almost FI motor numbers.

My current dilemma are the stripes. They are one with the body. The only success I've had is with a rubber eraser wheel and that only removes the color layer, leaving a beige stripe base that the eraser wheel will not touch. Yikes!
Add to that I get about 2.5 to 3 feet of stripe removal per $12 wheel :~(

But I have to do something. The green stripe is in poor - faded - alligatored condition.

Anybody have a better idea?

Peter
in Denver

[Nick-B]

Hi Peter,

You missed the thread because it is 8 months old. Usually, it is best to start your own thread with your particular questions. You'll get better responses.

That said, those beige base stripes are (I suspect) the unfaded coach surface, not an actual stripe. Do not attempt to remove.

While the eraser wheel is a good way to remove old vinyl striping, some folks have used a heat gun and plastic scraper. If you try this be VERY careful you don't get the fiberglas surface too hot or you could scorch it.

[Peter_Crowl]

Originally Posted by Nick-B

Hi Peter,

You missed the thread because it is 8 months old. Usually, it is best to start your own thread with your particular questions. You'll get better responses.

That said, those beige base stripes are (I suspect) the unfaded coach surface, not an actual stripe. Do not attempt to remove.

While the eraser wheel is a good way to remove old vinyl striping, some folks have used a heat gun and plastic scraper. If you try this be VERY careful you don't get the fiberglas surface too hot or you could scorch it.

Yes - the thread had gone dormant. Mine was more of an "add me to the list" than anything.

I understand your point - but wonder how it is that the edge is so pronounced that you can catch your finger nail on it. If it was fade I'd expect it to be merely a color shift.

[StarfireGuy]

Originally Posted by Peter_Crowl

Hi Guys,
Looks like I missed this thread.
I have an '84 Elandan '32.
I really like it - but then I've pretty much gutted it as the PO smoked - a lot- and nothing I did got the smell out. So it's getting new flooring, wall treatment, furniture, beds, so on, so forth...

I've done the same manifold job Brian has - but mine went a lot easier. She runs great. Emissions are very good - almost FI motor numbers.

My current dilemma are the stripes. They are one with the body. The only success I've had is with a rubber eraser wheel and that only removes the color layer, leaving a beige stripe base that the eraser wheel will not touch. Yikes!
Add to that I get about 2.5 to 3 feet of stripe removal per $12 wheel :~(

But I have to do something. The green stripe is in poor - faded - alligatored condition.

Anybody have a better idea?

Peter
in Denver

Hey Peter,

Welcome to this thread <grin> Be careful with the rubber wheel, as it WILL go deeper than you might want and actually burn into the fiberglass.

Years ago I learned a trick-of-the-trade of using carburetor cleaner to soften the striping and the glue, then use a blade of some kind, I used a razor blade, and carefully remove the stripes. It's a somewhat messy process and the glue gels and balls up, but worked well for me.

Chris

[dgapilot]

Hi guys, Just wanted to chime in. I just got an 87 Windcruiser 37IQ. Same as the Elandan except with the Itasca label. Picked it up about 140 miles from home and so far threw the belts twice and blew the trans. Had to have it towed the last 20 miles or so. It's now sitting at a shop about 5 miles from home and at this point don't know what it's going to cost to get it running again. Hope I get to use it some day!

[Peter_Crowl]

Ouch!
That's a lot of trouble for just the ride home :~(
You didn't share what you paid - although I think it's good for all of us to know what we pay for these things to establish a basis ( I paid $5,500) - but unless the coach is in really good condition you may well be upside down.
I guess we all have to fall back on the fact that we aren't in it for the money :~)

Peter
in Denver

[StarfireGuy]

Originally Posted by dgapilot

Hi guys, Just wanted to chime in. I just got an 87 Windcruiser 37IQ. Same as the Elandan except with the Itasca label. Picked it up about 140 miles from home and so far threw the belts twice and blew the trans. Had to have it towed the last 20 miles or so. It's now sitting at a shop about 5 miles from home and at this point don't know what it's going to cost to get it running again. Hope I get to use it some day!

Welcome to this thread!

Sounds like your Windcruiser/Elandan adventure started early in your ownership !!! But, as many/most will tell you here, one of the cheapest costs of a used motorhome is the actual purchase price. More money can/will be spent in needed maintenance, upgrades, and replacing ALL the tires at one time <grin>.

So often motorhomes are NOT abused by their owners, but are NOT used ENOUGH by their owners. The mechanics/drivetrain might have few miles or few miles since maintenance was performed, but the inactivity by just sitting without being driven or even started at least, allows for belts, seals, gaskets, and even transmission bands to dry out and age prematurely.

Luckily, the engine parts are off-the-shelf for the most part, so prices are not any more than your standard truck parts at a parts store etc.

Assuming you replaced the old belts with new and not some that were of old stock already with the motorhome, you might have some pulley's that are not spinning properly about to seize, or possibly bent, either can cause belt breakage.

The transmission if original to the MH, is pretty much standard issue HD 1 ton Chevy/GMC or Ford truck. If it has failed, now is a great time to rebuild with some more up-to-date and/or stronger internal upgrades OR even instal a more modern transmission with overdrive, several have done that here in this forum.

As with anything, it's ALL about your budget, and how often and/or hard you plan to use it in the future. To upgrade with a $3000 + rebuilt transmission with all upgrades, so that you can get 1-4 mpg better and you only drive it 1000 miles a year, or go up a steep hill at 55 mph + instead of 45 mph and you only encounter that steep of an incline once a trip, is a cost factor you have to decide. If you are using it every week, weekend, or for several months each summer on vacation, it might be worth it, but for many, the 30 min. extra in time it might take going up a long steep grade, and/or having to stay in the right lane with your flashers on, like all the semi's, is worth the savings.

That being said, I am a horrible example of cost effective use of my money on vehicles. I like/love to upgrade with gadgets, and over-build. It's costly to me, but G R E A T for the next owner !!!!

[Peter_Crowl]

Back to the Future

Funny you should mention fuel consumption...I was just reading threads on the subject. Seems the popular wisdom is that aerodynamics - or the lack thereof - have a greater effect on consumption than pretty much anything else. Many people report spending a lot of money on Banks gear, overdrives and so forth only to find the result is net zero.

Aerodynamics are a much larger factor and considering that most motorhomes are flat bricks slamming into the wind there isn't a lot that can be done. We, however, are here because we have a rig that was designed with at least some thought given to wind resistance. Between that and driving technique we can hope to achieve the 9-10 Brian saw on his ride home. Considering that many people are fighting to do better than 6 or 7 that's a big deal.

Apparently it's possible to improve on that with a belly pan up front that deflects air away from under the chassis. Air gets caught up in the engine bay and has a measureable effect on mileage - or so they say. But real improvement comes from a mod to the rear- sort of adding a torpedo shape to the back end. Nasa research done for the trucking industry came up with this. I don't see myself turning the Elandan into the Wiener Mobile - but it is interesting.

What I find even more interesting is the evolution of the MH. They started out - with a few exceptions - as large flat walls driving against the wind. Some - Eyebrow Winnies for example - even had what appear to be wind catchers! Then in the 80's more thought was given to aerodynamics as with our Elandans. Now as I drive down the road and look at oncoming new rigs I see...large flat walls driving against the wind. Sure the mirrors are streamlined and the corners are rounded but the face is one big flat panel.

Here's a link to the NASA article - Aerodynamics Research Revolutionizes Truck Design

[dgapilot]

So far the shop hasn't gotten back to me with an estimate for the trans. I was over there last weekend, and was looking closer at the rig. So far my list of to-dos: Transmision, find out why the belts keep jumping (I think it's the AC compressor), front end work-there is about 3" slop in the steering wheel and it's off center when rolling down the road, new front air bags, New plugs, wires, distributor cap, vacuum hoses, new headliner, fix the generator, there is a plumbing leak at the galley sink, new radio antenna, clean up the mess of wiring under the dash (there used to be some type of engine monitor system), replace the volt meter, put new dash light bulbs in, pull the carpet and install new flooring, replace or repair the front right locker door, replace or repair the rear bumper cover, paint the exterior, make new curtains and buy new window blinds. That's the short list. Hope it doesn't get much longer. I actually was hoping to be able to use this thing before doing all the work! If I get a chance I'll get some pics this weekend and post them.

[Brian S]

Originally Posted by dgapilot

So far the shop hasn't gotten back to me with an estimate for the trans. I was over there last weekend, and was looking closer at the rig. So far my list of to-dos: Transmision, find out why the belts keep jumping (I think it's the AC compressor), front end work-there is about 3" slop in the steering wheel and it's off center when rolling down the road, new front air bags, New plugs, wires, distributor cap, vacuum hoses, new headliner, fix the generator, there is a plumbing leak at the galley sink, new radio antenna, clean up the mess of wiring under the dash (there used to be some type of engine monitor system), replace the volt meter, put new dash light bulbs in, pull the carpet and install new flooring, replace or repair the front right locker door, replace or repair the rear bumper cover, paint the exterior, make new curtains and buy new window blinds. That's the short list. Hope it doesn't get much longer. I actually was hoping to be able to use this thing before doing all the work! If I get a chance I'll get some pics this weekend and post them.

Welcom to the club. I bought my 87 Elandan thinking I would be able to camp soon. It has been a year and a half and the only place it has been is to the repair shop and back. I was damn lucky it made the 300 mile trip home after I bought it (no brakes). If you decide to go the header route, I instaled headers for a 70s Chevelle/Camaro. They required a small notch on the motor mounts but for $100 a set shipped, they beat the hell out of $1,200 Thorleys.