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Old 09-21-2011, 01:58 PM   #61
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I think I'll get it running and use it some before putting headers on. Here in MD they do a tail pipe sniffer test for polution, and I'm worried about passing that with the smog pumps disconnected. I''d like to put Historic plates on and not have to worry about that, but as the rules are now, motorhomes don't qualify for Historic. I have a petition in to change that, along with letters to all my state representitives, but even if it should go thru, it won't be this year!
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:45 AM   #62
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I think I'll get it running and use it some before putting headers on. Here in MD they do a tail pipe sniffer test for polution, and I'm worried about passing that with the smog pumps disconnected. I''d like to put Historic plates on and not have to worry about that, but as the rules are now, motorhomes don't qualify for Historic. I have a petition in to change that, along with letters to all my state representitives, but even if it should go thru, it won't be this year!
I am luckey here in Mississippi. They don't test. I have all the smog stuff removed and installed a new Edelbrock carburator that is dialed a bit lean. The additional power is amazing. I can cruse at 55 and just barely touch the throttle. Those smog pumps block about 30% of your exhaust opening and rob a bunch of power. I expect to get 10 to 12 mpg when I get her on the open road.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:45 AM   #63
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I am luckey here in Mississippi. They don't test. I have all the smog stuff removed and installed a new Edelbrock carburator that is dialed a bit lean. The additional power is amazing. I can cruse at 55 and just barely touch the throttle. Those smog pumps block about 30% of your exhaust opening and rob a bunch of power. I expect to get 10 to 12 mpg when I get her on the open road.
Smog pumps only dump in fresh air into the exhaust manifolds period......

Which Edelbrock carb is now installed (Number and size)?

Jim
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:43 AM   #64
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In so many states, anything using a 1 ton chassis, or larger, or with a certain GVWR are exempt from emission testing. Worth looking into.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #65
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That's the short list. Hope it doesn't get much longer.

*snort* *choke**

Harumph. Yes, we wish you the best of luck with your list.

Hope it doesn't turn out like my list (I say as I type this from the repair facility in TX which we spent the last 2 nights. West RV in Livingston- nice place to camp & great guys here)

In all seriousness, I don't think many of us knew what we could be letting ourselves in for with that first vintage RV purchase, but it usually works out pretty darn well.

Or maybe not the first one, but the second one anyway
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:41 AM   #66
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Smog pumps only dump in fresh air into the exhaust manifolds period......

Which Edelbrock carb is now installed (Number and size)?

Jim
I put in a 1411, 750cmf. It is dialed 2% leaner than the 1407. Luckily we had an old guy around the corner who still knew how to tune carburators. When you buy one, be sure to get the tuning kit. Running too lean can burn valves and too rich wasts gas. I also got rid of the stock air cleaner and bought the big Eldebrock air cleaner that is suposed to be the same as not having one at all.

You are right that smog pumps only dump freash air into the exaust but the tubes that deliver the fresh air block 30 to 40% of the exhaust port. Removing them really opens up the engine and gives a big hp increase.
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Old 09-23-2011, 08:39 AM   #67
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Electrical question

Hi guys,
Things are moving along on the Elandan. After 6 weeks I almost have the bedroom/bath finshed

So - here's my problem though...
I don't get 12 volt feed to my lights or fans when my converter is shut off.
I'm parked in my driveway while doing this work. I'm plugged in. I shut off the converter at the main breaker in the coach at night so as not to over charge the batteries.

You'd think when the converter is off that the batteries would feed the system and allow my lights and fan to continue working...but that's not the case.

I know I'm getting 12 volt feed in this condition because I came out the other day and my heater cycling as the temps had dropped below 50 overnight. So it's getting 12 whilst the rest of the coach isn't.

Makes no sense. Thought I'd ask the clan if this is a congenital problem or am I doing something wrong.

Peter
in Denver
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:50 AM   #68
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Your furnace may be wired directly to the batteries.

I suspect your power distribution is such that AC shore/gennie or DC battery power feeds to the converter as part of the power distribution panel. If your converter is off, the circuit isn't complete, even if power from the batteries is available.
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:25 PM   #69
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Your furnace may be wired directly to the batteries.

I suspect your power distribution is such that AC shore/gennie or DC battery power feeds to the converter as part of the power distribution panel. If your converter is off, the circuit isn't complete, even if power from the batteries is available.
Following that I did a test - With the converter on I unplugged the 110 AC feed. Didn't change the situation. Still no 12 volt feed to the lights etc. .

I find nothing in the manual that addresses this situation. It just makes no sense.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:34 AM   #70
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So... converter on; hooked up to shore power; 12 volt circuits work---correct?

converter on or off; unplugged from shore power; no 12 volt circuits work---correct?

Have you tested the house batteries for charge? Sounds as though your batteries may be DOA.

Your converter could passing a charge through them while the AC is connected, but when AC is off, the batteries themselves can't maintain a charge to power the 12 v circuits.

FYI, the old style converters run a continuous charge to the batteries; if left plugged in and not carefully watched, they will eventually boil the batteries dry and unhappy RV owner gets to buy new batteries.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #71
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Shore power on - converter on - 12 volt circuits work - Yes

converter on or off; unplugged from shore power; no 12 volt circuits work---correct?

Partially correct - the furnace runs. Blower cycles - had enough battery to do that half the night based on the overnight ambient temperature.

In addition, I don't get 12 to the fans and lights immediately after turning off shore power. Even if the batteries were on their last legs I should get something in the first minute.

I guess I'll have to investigate more when I move the project into the front cabin. I plan to replace the converter with a PD 4045 or equivalent.

As an aside, the stock converter/charger is a two stage unit, providing boost charge as well as maintenance charge based on the battery bank's needs. Not bad for 1982 :~)
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Old 11-09-2011, 02:48 PM   #72
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I brought my 1985 Elandan a year ago. Flew over 1000 miles to get it. Made it 2 miles and the Transmission went out. Took it to a shop and flew home. Flew back out two weeks later and picked it up. Drove it home. The hold time I was driving it back I was thinking of the great time I was going to have remodeling it. Well my wife wouldn't let me keep it in the yard, So I keep it at a storage center. I could have brought a new unit for the money I've put in it. It has never been on a trip that it hasn't broke down. But, I still love it. You keep thinking, only another few hundred dollars and it will be perfect.
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:13 PM   #73
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Jerry,
I've had a similar experiance with my Windcruiser. The tranny blew on the way home after picking it up. Unfortunatly I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel at home, so the Windcruiser is just sitting next to the house until I can get the tranny out.

Since you are in MD, have you seen my posts about getting Historic plates for older motorhomes in MD? If we're lucky, it may pass the assembly next session. Contact your state assembly person and ask them to support the initiative.

David
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Old 11-09-2011, 06:15 PM   #74
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Peter,
Sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. Once it heats up a little it starts conducting and allows the electrons to flow.

David
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Old 11-10-2011, 07:34 AM   #75
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Peter,
Sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere. Once it heats up a little it starts conducting and allows the electrons to flow.

David
Possibly - grounds are always a god place to start - but all my light circuits work ok.

Jerry - Every time I'm in there working on the interior I keep preparing myself for having done all that work and loosing the motor 10 minutes later - but I keep on because I like the darn thing.

Go figure
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