Help please in diagnosing my 2006 adventurer with a workhorse chassis. Here is my problem. I have the HWH 325 Auto leveling system that controls 4 jacks and 3 rooms. The rooms work but the 4 jacks will not come down. The fluid level is ok. The pump seems to come on when it is supposed to but the jacks do not move any.
Are the inline fuses I do not know about. Where do I start diagnosing this?
You need a Shuttle Valve and you can easily order one from HWH in Moscow, IA or Stawart's at 800-826-6227 or you can email AZpete (Paul M) at [email protected]; and since Paul is a great help to all of us I would order through him.
After you remove your old shuttle valve... shake it and let us know if you hear a faint rattle inside? ...My failed shuttle had this characteristic, and someone told me this confirms you have a bad shuttle, but I can't say this a sure bet. I would need some other people to confirm this and to explain why these shuttle valves fail.
My coach had 114, 000 mile on it too. How many miles are on your RV when your shuttle valve failed?
And if you have not changed your HWH tank reservoir in the last 10 years, then maybe now is the time to do it. Just order this $22 pump off Amazon and tap into the 12V supply to the HWH solenoid and you can quickly change the fluid without making a mess!
Thanks Imnsprd, (Love the name) for the help. I am hoping it will fix my problem. I plan to order the shuttle valve asap. I have also found a lot of info on the series of leveling system on the HWH school website.. It helped me see how the whole works together to lift my coach.
Bruce1949: How many miles on your RV when you shuttle valve failed? ...And good luck fixing your problem.
Note: The hydraulic fluid in the HWH reservoir does not wear out, because there is no heat associated with it like there is with automatic transmissions.
However, moisture and rust do concern me after 15 years of service. So I think it is a good idea to replace your HWY hydraulic fluid with Dexron III, but you have to look for the TES395 spec or just put-in the "cheap stuff" and make sure it does not say "High Mileage" Dexron ATF.
And for us owners with a side radiator and Fan Clutch... that has a big reservoir which also provides hydraulic fluid to the power steering system, you might want to use that Scavenge Pump above and replenish it.
Note: My HWH reservoir took 7.5 Qts and my big reservoir tank in the engine bay took 8 qts, but buy 10 just to be sure you have enough.
The shuttle valve was the problem. It did rattle and make a noise when shaken.
The slides seem faster and the jacks works as expected.
The mileage on the camper is 58,000. I thought about exchanging the fluid as you suggested until i read a bulletin from Winnagego that talked about bleeding lines, draining jacks, and care replacing the new fulid to get all the air out. That sounded above my pay grade.
Any thoughts about just pulling the reservoir down to alomest empty and just replace that?
Thanks agaiin for your help. You got me ready to go again soon.
1) Before you check your fluid you are supposed to find out what combination of slides are supposed to be extended. In my case, my 2004 Horizon 40AD has 3 slides but I'm only supposed to check the fluid level when the short, passenger slide is out. * Your RV model will likely have a different slideout configuration than the one below.
==> If you can't find the configuration for your model, don't worry about it. I idea is to fill the reservoir unit it is about 1" from the top. So use your dip stick to estimate this or you can use a toothpick. ...Me, I prefer to have the fluid level at 3/4" from the top. And you should re-check this fluid level after using your slides three or 4 times.
2a) With the slide out per #1 above, then you check the level with the cap screwed down.
2b) Now let's say you find your level at the bottom of the dip stick. This indicates you are a 1/2 quart low.
3) Now retract the slideout... and use the scavenge pump to remove all the fluid you can get out of the tank. ...But put it in 1-gallon or quart jugs so you know how much you removed.
4) Now replace the fluid with new Dexron III fluid... the cheap stuff you can find, but make sure the fluid you buy is not the "high mileage" additive type.
Notes:
* There is no need to "bleed" the HWH lines. They use self-equalizing cylinders and return fluid to the tank when you retract the slideouts.
* Don't overtighten the plastic dip stick cap! Just finger tight then use a pair of channel lock to snug it down... just the littlest bit more... so it does not vibrate loose. Overtightening it will crack the plastic!
* My reservoir took 7.5 quarts. ...And it is getting harder to find "straight" Dexron III, because all the auto shops are marketing this stuff with leak repair additives in it.
* I found Camping World carries HWH Hydraulic fluid by the quart or you can order Dexron TES395 spec fluid on Amazon for pretty cheap. (TES295 is the Dexron spec for your Allison Transmission.)
* The only reason to replace this stuff is to get the crud out of the tank that may exist and to remove the fluid which may have moisture in it.
* I saw one video by an smart owner who used a 10-micron fuel funnel you can buy at Walmart to filter out the bad stuff and he just reused his old fluid after he did a repair, but I think it's worth $30 to change it if the fluid has never been changed in 8-10 years.
* Since you are change HWH and/or Dexron III fluids, you might also scavenge out the fluid in the power steering reservoir by the engine. This is also the reservoir for us Fan Clutch owners with a side radiator, and when my system took 10 quarts. So if you are replacing both the HWH and the power steering reservoir fluids you may want to buy 18 quarts of this tuff or just get the 5 gallon tub or better still may may sell a 2.5 gallon jug.
I had a 2003 Adventurer with the same problem. It turned out to be the fuse. By your pump motor there are two 20 amp fuses, these are for the slide rooms. And, there is a 40 amp fuse, this feeds the leveling jacks. In my case the fuse holder had actually overheated and burned inside. I replaced the fuse holder and the fuse - the problem never occurred again....
__________________ Need To Get Out More....
2003 Winnebago M38G Adventurer on Workhorse Chassis
Check that your leveling solenoids are working OK. They have tendency to burn out if left on too long while retracting. I lost several before learning this - when you click the "Store" mode it supplies power to all leveling solenoids to enable the springs to pull the pistons back in. But if left on for more than 15 min. the solenoids will overheat and burn out - so then no jacks!
__________________
Rick & Barb
2005 Winnebago Adventurer 37b
Full Timers
The other day I talked to a CS person at HWH who really know his stuff; and here are few takeaways we all need to know:
* My coach has 3 slides, and you are supposed to check the fluid level with the passenger slide extended.
==> This put fluid back IN the tank.
* The recommend fluid level is about 1" from the top, with the cap screwed down, but there is enough extra tank volume to check the fluid level WITHOUT screwing the dip-stick down and filling it to the top mark... but no further, with your passenger slide extended, or you fluid will overflow on top of the reservoir. (Which is not harmful, but does cause a mess.)
* The difference in the dip-stick bottom mark to the top mark is 1/2 quart.
* When you press the Jack-Retract-Button the control board signals each solenoid to dump pressure. Then the force of the big springs returns the jack to the stowed position and fluid is returned to the tank.
* There is no need to bleed the HWH pump. However, if you replace a hydraulic line it is recommend you fill the line with fluid before you screw it down tight.
* It's a good idea to to clean the two pump motor screws (5" long) every 10 years to make sure they make a good ground; and adding an additional ground wire is not a bad idea. This ensures the pump has a good ground.
* When you slides work normal, but your jacks will not go down, this indicates a bad shuttle valve or your 3000-PSI switch is not making a good ground. However, 9-times, out of 10, your shuttle valve needs replacing.
* If you hear something when you shake your old shuttle valve, that's a sign it's bad; and the only fix is to replace it with a new one. However, the best evidence comes when you replace the old shuttle valve with a new one and your jacks begin to work again!
1) Before you check your fluid you are supposed to find out what combination of slides are supposed to be extended. In my case, my 2004 Horizon 40AD has 3 slides but I'm only supposed to check the fluid level when the short, passenger slide is out. * Your RV model will likely have a different slideout configuration than the one below.
==> If you can't find the configuration for your model, don't worry about it. I idea is to fill the reservoir unit it is about 1" from the top. So use your dip stick to estimate this or you can use a toothpick. ...Me, I prefer to have the fluid level at 3/4" from the top. And you should re-check this fluid level after using your slides three or 4 times.
2a) With the slide out per #1 above, then you check the level with the cap screwed down.
2b) Now let's say you find your level at the bottom of the dip stick. This indicates you are a 1/2 quart low.
3) Now retract the slideout... and use the scavenge pump to remove all the fluid you can get out of the tank. ...But put it in 1-gallon or quart jugs so you know how much you removed.
4) Now replace the fluid with new Dexron III fluid... the cheap stuff you can find, but make sure the fluid you buy is not the "high mileage" additive type.
Notes:
* There is no need to "bleed" the HWH lines. They use self-equalizing cylinders and return fluid to the tank when you retract the slideouts.
* Don't overtighten the plastic dip stick cap! Just finger tight then use a pair of channel lock to snug it down... just the littlest bit more... so it does not vibrate loose. Overtightening it will crack the plastic!
* My reservoir took 7.5 quarts. ...And it is getting harder to find "straight" Dexron III, because all the auto shops are marketing this stuff with leak repair additives in it.
* I found Camping World carries HWH Hydraulic fluid by the quart or you can order Dexron TES395 spec fluid on Amazon for pretty cheap. (TES295 is the Dexron spec for your Allison Transmission.)
* The only reason to replace this stuff is to get the crud out of the tank that may exist and to remove the fluid which may have moisture in it.
* I saw one video by an smart owner who used a 10-micron fuel funnel you can buy at Walmart to filter out the bad stuff and he just reused his old fluid after he did a repair, but I think it's worth $30 to change it if the fluid has never been changed in 8-10 years.
* Since you are change HWH and/or Dexron III fluids, you might also scavenge out the fluid in the power steering reservoir by the engine. This is also the reservoir for us Fan Clutch owners with a side radiator, and when my system took 10 quarts. So if you are replacing both the HWH and the power steering reservoir fluids you may want to buy 18 quarts of this tuff or just get the 5 gallon tub or better still may may sell a 2.5 gallon jug.
Good luck.
The power steering/hyd fan reservoir DOES NOT take ATF mine requires AW36 hydraulic oil. Later models require a heavier grade, AW46 I think..
__________________ 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
HWH jack trouble
Linear Mode
