Hood Latch issue

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Journey39n

I know this subject has been tossed around for years, I commented too, many years ago. It just isn't complicated. Occasionally the factory did not do proper surface prep before gluing metal brackets onto fiberglass panels. Too many times, on too many RV's apparently.

8-9 years ago, on my 2010 Journey, I took the loose, and near loose brackets off the inside hood, and rear engine grill, did the proper surface prep, and glued the brackets back into place. Most I used JB Weld epoxy, the rear engine grill I used a super construction adhesive (with dots of JB Weld to hold the grill in place while the adhesive cured over three days)

All brackets and the grill have stayed in place over the years of driving around the country, across some bumpy roads paved and gravel.

There are many valid solutions, regluing, bolts, fiberglass, etc. Most only taking an hour or two to complete. All will work if proper procedures are followed. The Winnebago design could be improved, but isn't necessarily faulty, but the surface prep and quality control were really lacking!

Just an old guy's opinion of course.

Well said sir. I still don't know how I have owned a Winnebago RV for 3 1/2 years and had never heard of this issue. But thanks to this forum it only took me 1 day to get up to speed. I was able to put that knowledge to work for me and my circumstances. Now that I know what I know, I would have did this proactively remedied when it was brand new. In many ways I got lucky to find a very good Mobile Technician. Most would not be able to fabricate parts onsite; and if they did; it would have been at huge costs.

[dkoldman]

While the focus has been on the hood latches, I thought I would share what I did on the inside of the hood to ensure the stop support brackets, and the arm assembly bracket never get loose to come off.

I cleaned all areas with a paint thinner, light sanding, and applied JB Weld Original ($20) in generous amounts to join new surrounding fiberglass, metals and existing epoxy.

Eventually; I intend to have new steel supports made for Driver side even though I may not need. But if I do and for $620 total out of pocket; I will have a complete mechanically sound solution with peace of mind.

[dkoldman]

The Mobile Tech Repair guy came back this morning to do the other side. See new pictures of the driver side. Before the steel mechanical support was installed, when raising and lowering the hood, you could see the right support arm that is part of the driver side hood bracket assembly pushing the hood bracket assembly 1/2" in and out. Not that you raise the hood that often, but I believe that in time, it would have eventually sheared itself (like a knife) off the inside Plexus epoxy used.

As it is, now that both sides have mechanical supports, I don't foresee this issue ever resurfacing on this coach. I have peace of mind.

FWIW, the mechanic was marveled at how well the JB Weld Original worked over and around the plexus epoxy on the fiberglass hood and stop back plates etc. He only charged $250 today, so all total this permanent fix cost me $570.

[sundog964]

Fixed mine yesterday. Turns out that the epoxy separated from the metal, not the fiberglass. So I reepoxied both sides, and drilled 2 holes per bracket. Stainless carriage bolts actually look good, and they are very tight now.

I did notice that the bumpers weren’t snug on the hood when latched. And the latch twists, and then moves in to secure the hood. My supposition is that being loose like that the vibrations amplified the forces on the brackets and caused the failures. So check and make sure your hood is snug against the stoppers when closed and locked.

[Jim_HiTek]

Originally Posted by sundog964

Fixed mine yesterday. Turns out that the epoxy separated from the metal, not the fiberglass. So I reepoxied both sides, and drilled 2 holes per bracket. Stainless carriage bolts actually look good, and they are very tight now.

I did notice that the bumpers weren’t snug on the hood when latched. And the latch twists, and then moves in to secure the hood. My supposition is that being loose like that the vibrations amplified the forces on the brackets and caused the failures. So check and make sure your hood is snug against the stoppers when closed and locked.

I would advise 'snug' using lock bolts with the carriage bolts rather then 'very tight'. To avoid stress cracks when driving/parking/etc..

To any lurkers, it's now been six years since I installed (ad free article) SS 6-32 flathead hardware to hold the brackets to the fiberglass at the front and rear of my Journey and still, NO cracks in the fiberglass, no rust, no problems at all. At a cost of around 2 hours leisurely work, and $3 in parts.

[sundog964]

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

I would advise 'snug' using lock bolts with the carriage bolts rather then 'very tight'. To avoid stress cracks when driving/parking/etc..

To any lurkers, it's now been six years since I installed (ad free article) SS 6-32 flathead hardware to hold the brackets to the fiberglass at the front and rear of my Journey and still, NO cracks in the fiberglass, no rust, no problems at all. At a cost of around 2 hours leisurely work, and $3 in parts.

Thanks, I meant the brackets seemed tight. No slop in the bracket. But I’ll make sure the bolts aren’t too tight.