2018 Vista WFE31BE. The black tank valve is stuck open. (I've temporarily solved the nasty-surprise problem with a gate valve on the combined drain.) I can't figure out how to reach (or even see) the valve. I attached the plumbing schematics, and pics of the water bay. I can see the pipe as it leaves the top of the bay, but when I go under the rig, I don't see any pipes.
Good question. I hate those cable operated valves. They are prone to problems. It's likely to be a cable anchor that makes the otter sheath ridged so the bowden cable can move without the whole cable moving.
Can you open the black tank valve all the way with that handle? It looks like it's only open a little bit. I was asking because it seems you could put a simple direct pull gate valve in between those two pipe collars with the handle pointing out to the left. Or even somewhere else on that black tank plumbing.
To do that you'd have to be able to fully open the cable valve and then remove the cable.
I had a problem like this once on a Arctic Fox TT. They mounted the valve back underneath to protect it from cold temps. But the cable started getting loose and the bottom of the TT would have to be opened to get at it. So, we just put in a new gate valve near the dump connector and cut off the cable valve's cable.
It wasn't protected from freezing temps after that, but at least it worked. And since we live in South Texas that was more important than freeze protection.
__________________
2017 Winnebago Adventurer 37F
2016 Lincoln MKX Toad
The valve is definitely open. I tried to close it, and I thought it was closed. I got a nasty surprise.
(There's actually a clear section on the back side of the gate I put at the end of the drain pipe. Looks nasty.)
I need to figure out how to get to the valve so I can replace it. Maybe I can flush it out next time I'm hooked up and that will loosen whatever is clogging it.
I just went out and pulled it out and pushed it back in a few times. Feels like I'm getting a valve movement (pun intended). So maybe I loosened it up. I won't know until I take it somewhere to hookup.
On one of the series for that year it looks like this but do sort for your specific RV before trusting too far! On this one, I would think it goes in and then gets clamped to turn back and pull the valve from the reverse direction and that seems like asking for things to get loose or jammed???
Gotta love playing with those video games but some of us more "seasoned folks" may have to call for help!!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Ok, sometimes the links are hung up , etc. but seems to be working now.
The main point is that there are two builds of your RV year, make and model and they can differ, depending on the 7th number of your serial number being 1 or 2. That's where you will need to check to see that you are looking at the correct one.
No use looking at the drawing for a bike if you are fixing a trike??
But once you get to the correct Rv and drill down to plumbing and drain, you can turn it all around and see how far back or forward the valve as well as how high up in the RV, below the floor but how much, how far left/right, etc. so that you can then look at what it takes to get to that spot.
The drain and valves have to be below floor level in most cases as water won't run up hill too well and you can bet the pipe from the valve to the outlet has to also run downhill, so that should give you some idea of the up/down height to find it. Then the question how far forward/back and left/ right.
Since your Rv seems to have it in an inside area, I would really bet on needing to remove some of the weatherproofing (plastic?) in that area.
An alternate plan might also get some info without committing to any damage like cutting.
I would expect the area behind that metal shield in the wet bay to be open to stick an arm up there but not enought for a head to look.
So how about a light held up and use a camera to make a video of the area where you might get the camera in but not bigger things? Maybe you find it still requires cutting if it is too far inside to reach or you might get lucky and be able to take that metal sheild off to repair if close enough to reach???
Fixing things is easy. Finding the cause of the problem is the hard part!
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Today, I upgraded the front sway bar to a Roadmaster. So I spent a lot of time under the Winnie, although mostly from the front. In any case, I still don't see a way to access the damn valve.
Maybe I'll try taking that top metal piece off, and sticking a camera inside. That won't help me replace the valve though.
Today, I upgraded the front sway bar to a Roadmaster. So I spent a lot of time under the Winnie, although mostly from the front. In any case, I still don't see a way to access the damn valve.
Maybe I'll try taking that top metal piece off, and sticking a camera inside. That won't help me replace the valve though.
Know what you mean but there are some things to think on how to get there and it may help. Many of these valves are about the lowest thing on the RV as the lines do run downhill and thye have to start out lower than the bottom of the stool, so they are always under the floor. Since we don't want to tear out whatevr floor covering we have, it is usually better to try to spot near the right place and then if we have to, we may have to look at cutting the plastic and insulation to get to it.
Any chance your RV has enough slack in that plastic to push it up and kind of "feel" for the pipe? Or is it too thick and full of insulation, etc.?
Maybe a good time for one of the cameras that connect to cell phones to get a look for snaking it in?
Not nice at times but maybe a start?
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
Tony, you might try calling Winnebago support for advice on how to access that broken gate valve. I've had really good success calling them. If you get a good service rep, they will tell you exactly what you need to know. If they are too busy or not that good, they will tell you to take it to a dealer. To reach up in there it may be that you need to be as skinny as Barney Fife and have arms as long as Tacko Fall of the NBA. His wingspan is over 8ft.
__________________ The things you own control your life.
2021 Winnebago Vista 35U towing a 2022 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk 2010 Cadillac SRX 2003 Itasca Sunova 30B
Begin a daily soaking on the cable at at the handle with PB Blaster. I can't hurt anything and might get the wire moving in the sheath.
__________________ 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
Don't know if this means anything other than to let you know I have a 2016 Vista 31BE with the same exact issue. Had the same unpleasant surprise occur and solved it the same way you did. Can't for the life of me figure out how to access the actual black tank valve either. Will be following this thread.
I have a 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be with the same damn problem. I can't figure out where the actual valve is. But, I''m adding on a valve to at least stop the surprise black tank spillage. Very stupid design. They do many things good, but there is a list of very stupid engineering (non DYI) designs.....wish there was a Winnebago post mortem with customers annually.....
I will try to search for it and at least lubricate the cable where I have access....
I have a 2016 Winnebago Vista 31be with the same damn problem. I can't figure out where the actual valve is. But, I''m adding on a valve to at least stop the surprise black tank spillage. Very stupid design. They do many things good, but there is a list of very stupid engineering (non DYI) designs.....wish there was a Winnebago post mortem with customers annually.....
I will try to search for it and at least lubricate the cable where I have access....
I see there are three different builds of that year, make ,model but only the early has the cable running back and folding back toward the valve, so can we "assume" that you have the ealerly model with serial WFE31BE (Serial Number begins with 10E36U2) ??
That's the bad news as you do have the more trouble prone setup. The good news? They did find the item was trouble and redesigned things on the two later models! No help to you but good for later buyers???
Later build
Early build
I've drawn in what seems to be the routing of the cable and what I read here seems to indicate the problem is often that the attachments along the cable route seem to get loose.
Works much the same as the controls on mowers? If you have worked with adjusting the cables like on self-propelled mowers, A tiny change in the mounting of the wire cable combo, can make a big differences in how far the inner wire actually moves at the end.
If the attachments get loose, the coiled wire outer part can shift instead of the inner wire moving, if that makes sense? The outside wire moves instead of moving the valve!
That "may" mean you need to get to the wire route more than the actual valve??
But this is pure guesswork and theory, not actual hands on! Just what I have read here! Is mower experience meaningful??
__________________
Richard
Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
I currently DO NOT have one!
I see there are three different builds of that year, make ,model but only the early has the cable running back and folding back toward the valve, so can we "assume" that you have the ealerly model with serial WFE31BE (Serial Number begins with 10E36U2) ??
That's the bad news as you do have the more trouble prone setup. The good news? They did find the item was trouble and redesigned things on the two later models! No help to you but good for later buyers???
I've drawn in what seems to be the routing of the cable and what I read here seems to indicate the problem is often that the attachments along the cable route seem to get loose.
Works much the same as the controls on mowers? If you have worked with adjusting the cables like on self-propelled mowers, A tiny change in the mounting of the wire cable combo, can make a big differences in how far the inner wire actually moves at the end.
If the attachments get loose, the coiled wire outer part can shift instead of the inner wire moving, if that makes sense? The outside wire moves instead of moving the valve!
That "may" mean you need to get to the wire route more than the actual valve??
But this is pure guesswork and theory, not actual hands on! Just what I have read here! Is mower experience meaningful??
Thanks. Sorry for the delay. Just came back from a trip. Adding the additional valve at the combined output is a great safety approach. Going to have to get under the rig and see what I can find....
I have a 2021 31B Vista with the same problem. I have a post in the plumbing section. My black tank valve leaks and I put a valve on the outlet to catch the leak. I did find a possible access panel in the rear wheel well. It looks like the motorhome would have to be put on a jack and the rear passenger tires removed to get to it. I have been waiting on someone to respond that has had the valve replaced buy a dealer or a service bulletin from Winnebago concerning the problem. Sorry I can't offer anything other than "me too."
__________________
Ray & Denise Bates
2021 Vista 31B
2018 Jeep Wrangler
I have a 2021 31B Vista with the same problem. I have a post in the plumbing section. My black tank valve leaks and I put a valve on the outlet to catch the leak. I did find a possible access panel in the rear wheel well. It looks like the motorhome would have to be put on a jack and the rear passenger tires removed to get to it. I have been waiting on someone to respond that has had the valve replaced buy a dealer or a service bulletin from Winnebago concerning the problem. Sorry I can't offer anything other than "me too."
Hi Ray; I checked underneath and the cable DOES NOT route underneath the body. I am thinking of pulling the panel where the valve handle pulls are and looking also under the kitchen sink area....really should not have to guess where the cable runs ...should be clearly called out in the drawings.....:-)
Same thing happened to me.
Had to do what you did with the additional valve.
First thing to do is go dump the tank.
If you can, reach under the panel following the cable to the valve. The cable sheath most likely slipped out of the clamp on the valve.
I still have to reclamp my cable.
I was lucky as I could reach the valve and physically close it. If you can even see the valve, maybe a long stick could push it closed.
Linear Mode
