RV 2 Way Main Water Pump Switch?

[dkoldman]

After 4 years and in the middle of my current trip in Colorado, I have decided that I can no longer take being in the bathroom and realizing that I failed to turn on the water pump I can get by as some water will still come through sink, toilet, but sometimes I make the same mistake 2 or 3 times. The Water Pump Switch is in the hallway on the main wall, but I don't want to go back outside frim bathroom to hallway if water pump is not on.

So what I would like:
A switch with red LED that allows me to turn on the Main Water Pump while in the Bathroom. I would like to leave my existing Water Pump switch as it in the hallway and on my electrical panel. If successful, I should see a red light in the hall and in the bathroom with red LED lit if water pump is on, and both dark if it is off.

The wall in Bathroom that the new switch would go on is about 4 feet from the existing switch so I thing running wires would be easy with just a new cutout in the wall maybe above the light switch in bathroom?

Questions
Is this possible wiring wise?
Are there ideas on the type of switch I would need? This is one that I am thinking, but it may or may not work? It would at least help to show what I am thinking. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[No1Hunter]

I'm with ya. I wonder why there isn't a switch in bathroom, especially since the switch in my TT is block off from the bathroom if the slide is in (while traveling). I would have to go in the kitchen door, turn on the switch, go in the bedroom door to use the bathroom, then back out to the kitchen door to turn the switch off. I won't travel with the witch on.

So, as a temporary measurer, I have a 1/2 gallon of water under the sink. For emergency purposes, you know.

FYI - your link doesn't work.

[dkoldman]

I am glad I am not alone, and hope someone has a solution or switch that can work with the OEM switch and wiring but just allow you to turn pump on while in the bathroom.

Here is the full URL to the switch I was considering. https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-S...cx_mr_hp_atf_m

WBGO 12VDC Body Wiring diagram is very limited. My new switch would only be about 4 feet from the Hall Panel Assembly.

My workaround is a 52oz water jug. It is good for up to 4 flushes, I would never need more than two so it works, but I really would like a switch if it possible and affordable.

[Ray,IN]

You'll need a latching relay, both switches will attach to it. Then you can hook up as many pump switches as desired. My MH has 3 pump switches and that one latching relay

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

You'll need a latching relay, both switches will attach to it. Then you can hook up as many pump switches as desired. My MH has 3 pump switches and that one latching relay

Thanks, I am trying to understand how that latching works.

Not sure I follow what is meant by the Water Pump Pressure Switch?

Does this solution mean I will have to get rid of my existing water pump switch and indicator? If so; it may force me to make a mod of WBGO OEM Control Panel that the switch is on.

To keep it simple, I am only looking to add one new switch in the bathroom. It is not clear if I have to buy 2 new switches and this controller? And if so, what happens to my existing switch?

I assume the controller would go behind the wall and behind the WBGO OEM Control Panel that has various switches ( genny / water - indicators etc.)

[No1Hunter]

Not sure I follow what is meant by the Water Pump Pressure Switch?

Don't worry about that, it is built into your pump. It is what turns on your pump on when you turn on a faucet.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by No1Hunter

Don't worry about that, it is built into your pump. It is what turns on your pump on when you turn on a faucet.

Ahhhh thus why they call it a Pressure Switch

So I still need to learn about the other questions to follow this option better.

I also wonder if this latching relay is going to have a constant drain on my house batteries? It seemed as if it said it applies 2.5volts when switch is Off?

I now have two beefs with WBGO bathroom designs. A switch in the bathroom should be standard. My other beef is that they should plumb the bathroom sink to be optionally diverted to Black or Gray tank by user.

[Eagle5]

Hi dkoldman,
There is another option which you might wish to consider. I leave my water pump on all the time whether I am parked or underway. This is because I have an Intelligent Water Pump Controller which will automatically shut-off the pump should I run-out of water:
Water Pump Variable Speed Controller for a 22M
It provides a very nice steady-state shower and reduces the pump noise too.
Thanks, Eagle5
P.S. I do shut-off my water heater when underway. I did burn-out an ignition sensor wire because of the wind causing the flame to lap at the wire.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

This diagram, taken from a different make of coach, shows how to wire up two switches to a water pump without using a latching controller. If I had three locations for switches, I'd use a latching controller.

[No1Hunter]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

This diagram, taken from a different make of coach, shows how to wire up two switches to a water pump without using a latching controller. If I had three locations for switches, I'd use a latching controller.

Now to find the 3-way switches. They are not simply on-off or on-off-on switches, as two legs have to be the "traveler" legs.

I might just put a switch in the bathroom between the panel switch and the pump. Basically moving the switch function to the bathroom, or if I can get power there, just add another circuit to the pump.

[Morich]

Some of the small points are what will make/break the idea on whether it is worthwhile or not.
Two ways to consider and which might be less problems. One is the latching relay. That would require adding a relay that latches in the last positon you move it to as a way to avoid using power full time.
Tricky sounding but easy enough to understand as it has a coil to move the contacts open or closed but then there is a gizmo which holds them in that position. Some use a magnet. The relay the coach battery switch moves is this type.
We push the switch, the switch moves the relay and it stays there, even when we let loose of the momentary switch. Looking at the switch, we can usually feel the difference in the way it moves to make contact but then "bounces" back to a center off position?

To use this, one would need to put a latching relay somewhere, maybe close to the pump, and let it control the power to the pump with the existing switches plus one more to control the relay.
This has the downside of not having LED indicators on the existing switches? The switches would also have to be changed out.

A second way might be to add another switch and replace/ rewire the existing. One big question is how many switches you currently have. Adding one less complex than adding two?
The LED indicator is one that adds a bit more to the question, so how much do you value that ?

This second idea is somewhat like the house switches you may have. Think of the switches where we may have three entries to a room and the lights are controlled by a switch at three different locations. Not "hard" as such but it does take and extra wire at each switch to allow all switches to turn the circuit on or off without resetting the first one. In a house that is great and I have several here where we enter the hall, turn the light on and then turn it off as we get to the other end or go into a different room.
Not hard but I do have to stop and study the diagram on the box every time as it is not something I do often enough to commit to memory! Saving point is that the new one comes with a diagram on the box!

How many existing switches and how many to wind up with and how difficult to get another wire to the existing will be some big factors?
The best, easiest to use would be three switches , all able to turn it on/off from any location and all having LED indicators.
The downside is that is also the harder to do!


An "in between" setup might be to add a simple switch in the bath and not use the indicators but also give up some flexible use?
When in the bath and water doesn't flow when you turn on the faucet, etc., flip a switch there, when done flip it off? That gives you control but doesn't change the other points in the RV?

Details, details?? So what's your thinking?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Eagle5

Hi dkoldman,
There is another option which you might wish to consider. I leave my water pump on all the time whether I am parked or underway. This is because I have an Intelligent Water Pump Controller which will automatically shut-off the pump should I run-out of water:
Water Pump Variable Speed Controller for a 22M
It provides a very nice steady-state shower and reduces the pump noise too.
Thanks, Eagle5
P.S. I do shut-off my water heater when underway. I did burn-out an ignition sensor wire because of the wind causing the flame to lap at the wire.

Thanks. Let me add a little more context.

In the big picture this is really an issue for me when underway. I really could leave the pump on the entire trip and not have a problem. But this is about me thinking I would like to turn it off; if for no other reason habit. But more important, the question of why not have a switch in the bathroom to turn it on/off if you wanted to?

With that said and while I may not have a Intelligent Water Pump Controller?, my Shurflo Pump is intelligent enough to turn itself on/off as long as I have 55 psi pressure of water, so the pump is truly never just running anyway.

We can't hear our water pump unless we are outside in the wet bay doing doing something. Can't imagine water pump noise, but toilet flush can be loud at night

With all of the above said, we have made it 4 years with no issues, but if I was SVP of Product Winnebago today, I would start adding a water pump switch to all bathrooms as a 2nd switch in addition to hallway. I would also have drain plumbing plumbed with a valve so RV Owner could divert bath sink water to Black or Gray tank as option to help balance and manage waste tanks.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

This diagram, taken from a different make of coach, shows how to wire up two switches to a water pump without using a latching controller. If I had three locations for switches, I'd use a latching controller.

If I replaced the Wet Bay Switch in your drawing to be the new bathroom Switch, the drawing on paper would be exactly what I need. But will it work in my application?

For starters, I am not sure, or I do not know if the 12v + is wired to my ShurFlo pump 1st, or if it comes from the current switch? I couldn't make out anything from WBGO 12vdc body drawing.

I would have very little to no use for a switch in Wet bay, even if I got a latching relay to have as many switches possible. I only want or need two switches. The Main Hallway as #1 and the Bathroom as #2. Losing indicator lights if the pump is powered on is none starter, I would rather leave it as is.

Thanks for drawing as it may simply be all I need? Especially if I can keep my existing switch in tack and only buy one new switch. See above link to the switch I was thinking to buy for Bathroom.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by No1Hunter

Now to find the 3-way switches. They are not simply on-off or on-off-on switches, as two legs have to be the "traveler" legs.

I might just put a switch in the bathroom between the panel switch and the pump. Basically moving the switch function to the bathroom, or if I can get power there, just add another circuit to the pump.

I think you are saying the drawing above will not work, because both switches would have to be ON in order for pump to have power? Please clarify, I am not an electrician, but I did wire my own 50 amp pedestal to my house to get 50/30/20 amp services. I have used 4 years now effortless.

In my case, I don't want the switch moved to the Bathroom. Where WBGO put the switch makes sense. If I have to keep just one, it is fine where it is. I am just saying can I add a 2nd switch as option in bathroom without a major change in the design.

Can you tell me more about how you might just add another circuit to the pump? That sounds simple and something that I may understand better... I have plenty of power behind that Wall Panel in the Hallway. If you are saying I can run new red wire wire from the switch I provided a link to above that would be in the bathroom direct to pump or in my case direct to the 12v+ output side of existing switch, this could be easy peasy? Both switches would only be 4 ft apart.

[Morich]

Making all those choices is likely to be a high dollar job, as there are so many differerent views of what all of us want. Adding a bath switch, while it only costs four dollars for the parts, may cost a hundred dollars by the time it gets through all the changes to manuals , training , etc, etc that companies go through? Just think how much time it takes to change the great little interactive drawings I love so much? Is it worth it or is the price what people want?
They have to pay twenty different folks to make those decisions. The CEO gets the big bucks because they act like they know all that stuff, even if they barely know where the front door is to the office!

I often default back to what is less work! That put me into just wanting to turn the water on while not having to get up, if you know what I mean?
We had pumps that were noisy and not something we wanted kicking on in the middle of the night, so adding a simple switch to cover me when I forgot before I went in, was the easy way. I went, turned on to pump and flush but turned off before going back to bed!
Our pump and wet bay were directly below the bathroom cabinet so a small push button drilled into the cabinet side was easy and dropping wire down to the pump was as easy as it gets. The noise still woke everybody within a hundred yards but I avoided running around in my skivvies when we had folks sleeping in the front!
I'm sure the teenage girls liked that idea---even if they never knew!

[Morich]

Reading your last post after posting, I see a point you might get more info to help with the thinking. If you can get the wire labels off the pump wires, then go to the "decoder" chart, that will tell you where the wire comes from and goes to.


https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

As you mention, you might need to pick the power from a different spot to go to the new switch and on to the pump?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Some of the small points are what will make/break the idea on whether it is worthwhile or not.
Two ways to consider and which might be less problems. One is the latching relay. That would require adding a relay that latches in the last positon you move it to as a way to avoid using power full time.
Tricky sounding but easy enough to understand as it has a coil to move the contacts open or closed but then there is a gizmo which holds them in that position. Some use a magnet. The relay the coach battery switch moves is this type.
We push the switch, the switch moves the relay and it stays there, even when we let loose of the momentary switch. Looking at the switch, we can usually feel the difference in the way it moves to make contact but then "bounces" back to a center off position?

To use this, one would need to put a latching relay somewhere, maybe close to the pump, and let it control the power to the pump with the existing switches plus one more to control the relay.
This has the downside of not having LED indicators on the existing switches? The switches would also have to be changed out.

A second way might be to add another switch and replace/ rewire the existing. I want to at least try this 1st if possible. Latching Relay may work, but I would like as simple as possible with less cost as possible.

One big question is how many switches you currently have. I have one switch with separate Red Indicator in main hallway on standard WBGO Control Panel assembly. that has Adding one less complex than adding two? I only want to add one Switch in Bathroom, about 4 ft from existing OEM switch on Wall panel.
The LED indicator is one that adds a bit more to the question, so how much do you value that ? LED is critical. To not have LED, or lose LED Indicator is Showstopper. I have to be able walk by and see that it is On/Off.

This second idea is somewhat like the house switches you may have. Think of the switches where we may have three entries to a room and the lights are controlled by a switch at three different locations. Not "hard" as such but it does take and extra wire at each switch to allow all switches to turn the circuit on or off without resetting the first one. In a house that is great and I have several here where we enter the hall, turn the light on and then turn it off as we get to the other end or go into a different room.
Not hard but I do have to stop and study the diagram on the box every time as it is not something I do often enough to commit to memory! Saving point is that the new one comes with a diagram on the box!

How many existing switches and how many to wind up with and how difficult to get another wire to the existing will be some big factors? One existing switch and One new switch 4ft away is the goal.

The best, easiest to use would be three switches , all able to turn it on/off from any location and all having LED indicators.
The downside is that is also the harder to do! I don't follow why all seem to assume I will need 3 switches or why having 3 switches is better than have just 2 switches? But for me, today, I have one switch able to turn it on/off with LED indicator, I would like to add a 2nd one that do the same thing 4 ft away


An "in between" setup might be to add a simple switch in the bath and not use the indicators but also give up some flexible use?
When in the bath and water doesn't flow when you turn on the faucet, etc., flip a switch there, when done flip it off? That gives you control but doesn't change the other points in the RV? This option does not provide sufficient benefit to pursue. To be honest this is purely a nice to have and it is really only for toilet use in the event the power may have been left off. See my workaround solution at the top of the thread. I have water for up to 4 flushes so I can live. But my point is can I add a simple switch in the bath to turn the4 pump on/off just like the one in the hallway without major change.

Details, details?? So what's your thinking?

See above comments.
I am attaching picture of current switch.
I would love to leave that switch and indicator intact. I would like to add a switch similar to link provided above that glows red when On in the bath room that will turn on pump and light up both LEDs

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Morich

Reading your last post after posting, I see a point you might get more info to help with the thinking. If you can get the wire labels off the pump wires, then go to the "decoder" chart, that will tell you where the wire comes from and goes to.
Attachment 187228

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

As you mention, you might need to pick the power from a different spot to go to the new switch and on to the pump?

JS / 12 YEL TONITOR PANEL WATER PUMP SWITCH WATER PUMP

and

JY / 12 WHT WATER PUMP OR WATER PUMP CONTROL GROUND

So it seems like the power is coming from the switch?

Why can't I use the same 12v+ power source for existing switch on the wall and split it to go to a new switch in the bathroom and then wire the new switch in the bathroom to output side of existing switch? Seems like in that scenario if any switch was activated it would provide 12v+ to boith switches?

[creativepart]

Humm, my Adventure has 4-water pump switches - main control cabinet in the hallway, both bathrooms and in the basement wet bay. I never gave it any thought. Hows does that work? Do I have a relay I'm not aware of?

Also, even with all the switches we keep our water pump on all the time when using the motorhome. Otherwise we don't have any ice in the ice maker.

[Morich]

Okay, that clears a lot. most of us may have jumped to three in thinking you already had two! Should not assume!!

Little thinking going on but this idea?

With the wire ID we get this idea of what they are currently doing. Harder than them giving us a drawing but we make do!

Click for better view!


The pump has to have a full path for power to come in and go to ground!
If JY is from pump to ground, JS has to bring power from some point on the monitor panel to the pump, through it to ground to make it run. That power is controlled when monitor panel switch is turned on.
Does it have an existing LED or would it need to be changed to get LED?

But if we have the first switch with and LED connected inside that only lights when the power is on, then we add a second switch that does the same with the same LED setup and getting power from either the same point on monitor panel as existing or even a new point "somewhere", we get the same things happening and light both LED!

See how this would light the new LED and also put power on the existing LED?

Pretty simple if wires can be fed in but with the downside that they would not control each switch from the other! If turned on in the bath, it would tell it was on at both switches but have to be turned off at that bath switch.

Not a true setup like we might want in a house but how far what problems does that make in your situation?

In a hoouse this would not work if we had two switches like at stairs. We would not want to turn th elight on at the top and have to go back up there to turn it off and come down in the dark.

So how does this look like it would work in your rV for distance and function?

If awkward enough, the next step up would be changing out the existing switch, adding more wires between it and the new switch to allow turning on/off from either switch like in home wiring.
Not necessarily out of reason but somewhat more complex and maybe more to do it?

So what's the thinking on this? Cut a corner here or cut your throat if the good wife is not happy?