Does Fridg run off of inverter

Sglynn55 · 04-05-2022, 10:34 AM

Your help with this inverter / fridge question is appreciated.

I have a 2016 SunStar N27. It has an inverter, but I can't tell what appliances will run off the inverter. I'd like to run the fridge off the inverter while driving. That way, driving will keep the batteries charged and I won't need propane on to keep the fridge running. I've tried it, but I can't tell if it works. When I push the various settings on the inverter, it shows voltage is fine, but it shows zero (0) amps, so like nothing is running off of it. I do think the TV will run off of it, but is that it? And I've noticed there is a CGFI plug in cargo that seems to be part of the inverter circuit. Its fine.

Does anyone know what appliances will run thru the inverter?
Does anyone know if the fridge will run thru inverter while driving?
Does anyone know how to verify it is working?

PS I've read the manual, but ??? Can't tell.

thanks

**macnut** · 04-05-2022, 11:06 AM

Others will have a better technical answer, but typically for that year (I have a 2017), if you have a 1000w inverter, it is only connected to the TV and a few outlets. Since you don’t have a residential frig, it would not be connected to the inverter.

**creativepart** · 04-05-2022, 01:24 PM

You haven't specifically said - but let's ask some questions:

Is your inverter powerful enough to provide 110v for the fridge? What size inverter do you have?

And lastly, how big is your battery bank? Will the alternator be capable of charging up the batteries while the inverter is drawing a lot of power from your battery bank?

You should assume that with an RV Fridge the inverter was never intended to power the fridge and that currently the fridge is not on an inverter powered receptacle.

What is powered by your inverter will be related to how big your inverter is. If you have less than 2000w of inverter power then the only things likely to be on your inverter circuits are at most: a plug in the kitchen, a plug in the bathroom, a plug in the bedroom and a few plugs around your TV/Entertainment area.

Sglynn55 · 04-05-2022, 01:53 PM

Thanks, your statement is consistent with what I'm seeing. thanks I think you are right.

Sglynn55 · 04-05-2022, 02:05 PM

The N27 has:
2 house batteries
120V and Propane Fridge (2-way) RV Fridge
Only 1,000 Watt inverter. So 8 amps and I think the fridge only sucks about 3+ amps.
But per your note, it seems only TV and plugs are connected.

I was hoping it was just user error to get the fridge running off the inverter but sounds like its not wired in.

Thanks for the help

tderonne · 04-05-2022, 04:03 PM

Wiring diagram shows that the inverter does not power the refrigerator.

Snippet of what is powered is attached.

Upinsmoke · 04-12-2022, 02:26 AM

I'm all for using the electrical diagrams, and they are usually correct, but I just turned on the inverter and went around with a simple, plug-in electrical tester and either you have juice, or you don't. Then you know for sure.

burt6274 · 05-03-2022, 06:23 AM

We have a 2018 Vista 29VE and I've been over this exercise, so a little more info.

The RV fridge is NOT connected to the Inverter. While the AC current draw is only about 3 amps the draw from the Inverter when running the fridge is about 30 amps DC.

That's typically why they don't set it up to run the typical RV fridge off the Inverter. It would drain the batteries very quickly.

We were having issues with the generator so was looking at a backup plan to run the fridge off the Inverter while driving down the highway. I had the fuel pump replaced on the generator and it seems to be working much better, but will only know when we hit the road again.

The key is to verify that your Alternator can provide enough power with the Inverter pulling 30 amps while running the fridge. And remembering to turn off the fridge while you have the engine off.

What I did was added a second single outlet in the fridge compartment above where the current 120V outlet is located. It was pretty easy to fish the wire for the second outliet. I added wire loom over the wire as was done at the factor for the other power lines. I then added a junction box and tied the Inverter output power in so that we can plug the fridge into the new Inverter outlet and then have the option of running off the inverter. But if the inverter fails I can change back to the original 120V outlet and run off shore power or generator.

That said, this is a short term solution as we are going to upgrade to an Amish 120V residential conversion. That keeps the current fridge box but changes out the cooling unit. This draws significantly less power than the heating element in the RV fridge and reduces the strain on the Inverter, house batteries and alternator. Plus a number of other benefits.

A long winded way of saying that it is possible to configure to run the RV fridge off the Inverter, even the 1000 watt one that is typically installed in this class of MH.

**creativepart** · 05-03-2022, 07:46 AM

Burt6274, why the 120v version of the Amish cooling unit and not the 12v? With the 12v you would run the fridge off the alternator/batteries with no inverter losses.

burt6274 · 05-03-2022, 08:48 AM

It's a toss up.. We don't do much in the way of boon docking.. Just stopping overnight once in a while, so not really trying to run off batteries for extended periods.

The 120V is a bit peppier, according to JC refrigeration.

Also the 120V is basically plug and play, especially now that I have the added Inverter outlet.

With the 12V version I would likely need to run a heavier gauge 12V line to the fridge. That was an extra cost. If the voltage drop with the existing 12V supply line was too much the Compressor will run erratically, or totally shut down to protect itself.

Since the fridge is in the full length slide it seemed like it would be more trouble than it is worth to run that line, having to make sure that it wouldn't run on something as the slide goes in and out. The 120V Inverter line is all contained within the slide so that wasn't an issue.

But I did go back and forth between the 12V and 120V versions. If you are paranoid about both the generator and Inverter failing at the same time, the 12V version would get around that but that scenario isn't likely to happen often.

So for us the small amount of loss running the Inverter didn't seem like it would be an issue. If we were planning on extended boon docking that would be a different situation.