Sealant and awning patch? 2018 Sunstar 29VE

[edju]

I've got a 2018 Sunstar 29VE. Two questions...

The front cap to the roof has a lap sealant. I think it's silicon based from what I've been able to read. It has a few small cracks. Can I cover those cracks with Nuco or Hengs 311 without having to remove all the old stuff? I can clean it well, but will new sealant adhere well enough?

I also have a few small tears in the awning near the attached roof channel. I wanted to just apply some patch tape to prevent them from getting worse. Is that okay and if so what is the best tape to use? Other ideas?

Thanks as always for your help and comments. I've got a lot of good info from this forum.
Ed

[creativepart]

There is a "Sealant Guide" for your Sunstar - but you are on the right track. You should be able to apply silicone sealant right on top of the existing sealant. And Nuco/Hengs 311 is an appropriate sealant.

Here's a link to the guide:

https://winnebago.com/Files/Files/Wi.../000181968.pdf

You'll see that it's Sealant A and the part number is: 342414-01-CHT. If you feed that part number into Google it's Nuco 311 Self-Leveling Black Silicone Sealant.

If the cracks aren't deep you can ignore them.

As to the awning - I don't think there is a specific tape recommended. I've always used Camco awning repair tape. But it's not all that special:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Awning-.../dp/B005SB6Q2W

[Morich]

When looking at the sealant chart and directions, is there a small point being missed?

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Morich

When looking at the sealant chart and directions, is there a small point being missed?

Yes, there is. I wonder why??? Well, anyway, that answers the first question with authority. Now, we know.

[Morich]

Working with aquariums which are often sealed with silicone, I found that new will not stick to old.

Some object to using silicone because they don't want the future of having to remove it to reseal. Lots more chemistry than I've ever wanted to try to remember as it's easier to just not do it!

For reseals on RV, I now go to an oscillating tool to speed the major job of removing the old. It speeds that part to almost easy? Then when all is off that I can see, I go back and scrub it really well with something like rubbing alcohol and make sure it is totally clean and dry.
A Google search for new silicone over old will get lots of more indepth info than I have.
Much depends on the quality of the source but many start with "no" while others go way deep into the chemistry.

My mind tends to balk at lots of the indepth discussions!

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by Morich

Working with aquariums which are often sealed with silicone, I found that new will not stick to old.

Some object to using silicone because they don't want the future of having to remove it to reseal. Lots more chemistry than I've ever wanted to try to remember as it's easier to just not do it!

For reseals on RV, I now go to an oscillating tool to speed the major job of removing the old. It speeds that part to almost easy? Then when all is off that I can see, I go back and scrub it really well with something like rubbing alcohol and make sure it is totally clean and dry.
A Google search for new silicone over old will get lots of more indepth info than I have.
Much depends on the quality of the source but many start with "no" while others go way deep into the chemistry.

My mind tends to balk at lots of the indepth discussions!

I barely passed Chemistry... I was a Biology Major From what I recall and gather there are different silicone formulations and structures. They don't play well together. I am currently using Henry 212 for most of my joint sealing. It is what Winnebago claims I should be using. I prefer Proflex. Cleaning the old crap off effectively is a challenge. Anyone who uses Silicone as a sealant should be tarred and feathered. Due to its incompatibility with just about everything.

Aaron

[Ray,IN]

The cheap silicone sealants are exactly that, cheap. The best silicone sealant to use is a neutral-cure silicone sealant. Without going into details it seals better and longer, plus doesn't have that vinegar smell of the cheap stuff.
Once you have the old sealant removed, clean away the residue with Re-Mov : https://dynastybath.com/product/re-m...esive-remover/
Personally I prefer the newer sealants that do not contain silicone.
reL front cap to roof seal. Most of these joints have a huge gap, I used ordinary backer rod to wedge in the gap to prevent the new sealant from pushing under the front cap and consuming half-a tube of sealant.