Fiberglass Roof Channel Maintenance - Is There A Better Method?

[4x4van]

Originally Posted by imnprsd

...just like Mantus Bond clear sealant failed after Winnebago put this stuff on my roof...

Just as a minor point of clarification; Winnebago did not put clear Manus Bond on your roof... They put silicone on your roof. Manus Bond is not made in clear.

As you've noted, those of us with white roofs have the advantage of being able to use the stronger sealant (Manus Bond or 3M 4200/5200) along with Eternabond (if desired), while you guys with painted roofs don't. I hope you can find an acceptable alternative.

[crah]

Seems the roof radius sealant on the 2020 Views have the same problem. Mine was all cracking within 6 months of ownership. I didn't know it was an ongoing issue. Has anyone used the titebond metal roof sealant? It comes in every color including clear but like all clear sealants, the clear doesn't do well in UV. I've used the titebond in building construction in Vegas with good success and longevity. I know it's made for metal but it bonds well to numerous surfaces. I'm not sure how well it will bond over the existing radius sealant. I bought a gray color that matches my full body paint and applying a bead over the existing sealant. I can't see it doing any harm as the existing sealant is already cracking within a year.

[JLUSoCal]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does come in clear, have some to put on my Vista front cap to roof seal.

[Phil-T]

Originally Posted by youracman

Phil- After I finished my EB tape install, I took several pics with my iphone thinking that even with white on white I would for sure at least see the black edge of the EB tape, amazed .... no contrast at all (maybe just a bad sun angle at the time.) I trashed the pics.

Jim HITek has some great pics of his EB tape install. He had it done in Mexico .... it took his guys about 1/10 as long as it took me, and it looks super good. Also, his installation has more "time on it" than mine; so I sent him a PM and asked him to post here.

Sorry about my pic fail.

I really believe if I had given the ProFlex several days (3 or 4?) to cure before I took off on my AZ trip it would not have failed. I just "think" even the minimal amount of "normal" racking on bumpy ol' highways was too much for the ProFlex after such a short cure time. I should add that I did, in fact, read in another forum where a guy had the same longitudinal cracking; I don't know what sealant he used or any other info though.

BTW-I didn't remove the "cracked" ProFlex from the channel on my rig; I just covered it up with 2" EB tape for "shade". My logic: I still have adhesive sealant which is well adhered to both sides of the channel and the filon is not gonna come out of there ..... especially with protection from the side winds offered by the EB tape. The mounting screws for that "J-rail/awing rail" are above the "water line" so I don't believe water is a concern ......... but I keep the coved ends of the EB tape sealed .... just in case. lol

Be safe, all.

So, you cover the channel that the roof goes into? Like eliminating the rain gutter?

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by crah

Has anyone used the titebond metal roof sealant? It comes in every color including clear but like all clear sealants, the clear doesn't do well in UV. I've used the titebond in building construction in Vegas with good success and longevity. I know it's made for metal but it bonds well to numerous surfaces. I'm not sure how well it will bond over the existing radius sealant.

Looking at the specs for Titebond I’d be concerned about it’s warning about using it with plastics... your roof is FRP. And using it over the silicone based sealant already on your roof. Not much other than silicone sticks to silicone.

[crah]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Looking at the specs for Titebond I’d be concerned about it’s warning about using it with plastics... your roof is FRP. And using it over the silicone based sealant already on your roof. Not much other than silicone sticks to silicone.

I read that part as well. But it refers to using the translucent color with polycarbonate (clear plastic). That clear plastic is sometimes used on roofs like a carwash. There is something about clear sealants/clear plastic that don't mix well for some reason. We use silicone type sealants in FRP all the time for waterproofing institutional showers. I've never used FRP on the exterior of a building though. I guess I could just try it. It can't be worse than the results I'm getting from the factory sealants within 1 year of purchase.

[youracman]

Originally Posted by Phil-T

So, you cover the channel that the roof goes into? Like eliminating the rain gutter?

I've added a sketch to the WBGO cross-sectional dwg and will attempt to post a pic that I scanned; hopefully it will enlarge if you click on it. You will note that there is very marginal contact area there at the bottom of the tape were it goes into the J-rail and i was concerned about that; I pressed the tape hard in that area with my putty knife and it has never come loose ......... heck of an adhesive (as we all know.)

Hope that helps.

I contacted Jim HiTek and ask him to post but he responded that he is not able to find his pics at this time...... if he runs across them, I am sure he will post. My rig is stored in an industrial area and there is enough dirt up there that it might provide some contrast and I could get a pic that would show the tape better than white on white on a bright sunny day (like the pics I took years ago,) No ladder around but perhaps later......

Best.......... and stay safe,all.

[Phil-T]

youracman, thanks - I got it. Thinking I'm going to give it a try.

[imnprsd]

In Oct-2020 I went to the The Reef RV Park at Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco) and asked Carlos and Pablo to clean the roof radius with 92% Rubbing Alcohol... remove the old glue and apply Geocel "ProFlex" Clear sealant to my roof. They did a great job for $200 after tip. (2-days and 8 man-hours of labor, including adding additional screw to my front cap over the driver's window.)

In May-2021 I returned to The Reef and asked Carlos to clean, tape, and brush on Flex Glue Clear right out of the can...and put it on top of the ProFlex sealant for UV protection.

Why? I'm tired of having to do regular roof maintenance to avoid my roofing getting blown off in the wind. That already happened to me 4 years ago and it cost $35,000. Fortunately, my insurance covered it, but only because I keep a "log book" of every repair and every service every preformed to my RV.

MORE INFORMATION

All hybrid and polyurethane sealants break down in 1-2 years when exposed to the sun; and since I'm always driving my roof gets a fair amount of sun.

The outcome of applying Flex Glue Clear (out of the can with a brush) over the ProFlex sealant turned out better than I expected. The Flex Glue Clear is very clear and when you tape and paint this stuff on it looks just like an OEM job after you are done.

So now I have the strength of the ProFlex sealant and the UV protection of the rubber Flex Glue Clear. Is this a better mouse trap? We shall see.

Ask me in 2 years and I will let you know.

What I can tell you is that a 40' RV flexes a lot when driving over ramps to gas stations and the like; and when leveling; and the sun will destroy all the roof sealants over time. This is been the case for 20 years +; so I am hopeful that adding a rubber layer on top of the roof sealant will work. TBD.

For more information on all the RV services you can get at The Reef RV Park in Rocky Point, Puerto Penasco, MX go to:

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ew-358003.html

[bigb]

Working on my roof presently and I will note one thing that may contribute to early failure of the Geocel applied after removing whatever the factory used. I noticed that on the inside edge of the aluminum channel there is a LOT of residue that is very difficult to remove. I used a small Scotch Brite Roloc wheel but it is only abrasive on one side so it cleans the fiberglass very well but not the inside of the aluminum channel. Last night I went over one side repeatedly using 3M adhesive remover, Lacquer thinner and a variety of tools and rags. The small hook helps scrape the little ledge that is in there and the miniature screwdriver helps to clean it out. The sawed off screwdriver fits all the way to the bottom of the channel and with a solvent soaked rag wrapped around it, cleans the channel very well. It is really impossible to get every last bit from the aluminum but hopefully I am getting it clean enough to provide a long lasting bond. Not sure what was used on my 2011 originally but it sure looks and feels like silicone and it did last nearly 10 years of outdoor storage. Once I finish re-painting the roof edges and apply the Geocel I will probably try the Flexible glue.
Finished painting one side today and it came out very nice (base coat/clear coat automotive paint shot with HVLP, no rattle cans), the photo doesn't do it justice as it is very shiny and reflects everything right now. You can see my ceiling rack for plywood, the ceiling strip light and at the bottom the reflection of my white pickup parked nearby. The last pic is a little better but the reflections are still bad.