Should we cover our motorhome

[willido]

What do you mean by “waxing” the roof? What material is your roof? What product do you use for the roof?

2019 MW 22R

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by willido

What do you mean by “waxing” the roof? What material is your roof? What product do you use for the roof?

2019 MW 22R

Not sure who this question was for?

But I use Meguiars Pur Boat & RV Wax #56

It is recommended by Winnebago & Crane Composite who makes the Fiberglass roof. Crane says you the gelcoat on the same maintenance process is same as roof to protect fiberglass.

My plan is too wax the sides twice a year, and wax the roof once a year.
Use RV Wash & Wax throughout the year on both. I always use RV Wash & Wax on roof first and then RV Wash & Wax on the sides.

I have new coach and it is under a tree. Little things are starting to fall in advance of the leaves. What the wind and rain don't blow off, I just rinse the roof with regular water hose about 5 minutes

[Liv4weekends]

I've used them, all price ranges, custom fit, etc., and found all to be a waste of money for many reasons. First, most are constructed of little more than compressed paper. I was always patching holes. Under best conditions, its a 2 person job with definite risks. Storms, wind, push stress points such as grommets and straps to deteriorate rapidly. I do not have access to rental covered storage within a reasonable distance which is why I tried covers. Even the top only covers are useless as the wind gets under and pops all attachments. Then, you have to go back up and awkwardly roll up for removal before leaving. I keep the coach clean, have shop inspect, and have tires, windshield wipers and mirrors covered. Wish I had back all the money I spent on covers. Even if Sunbrella covers are more sturdy, the possible danger of roof climbing is too much of a risk, for me.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by Liv4weekends

Storms, wind, push stress points such as grommets and straps to deteriorate rapidly.

I had a strap going across the front this summer. When I was removing the strap I noticed a portion of strap sitting on the ground, like it was cut. I assumed someone had cut it, but upon examination the sun had merely ruined it. It was very brittle. The straps under the trailer, not exposed to the sun were fine.

But that does show what the sun can do. Even for car paint the sun is far more damaging than winter weather.

[Rick 99037]

Humm, I wonder what it would cost to get it to Spokane WA.
I have a 29 ft class A. The book says it's 29' 8". But I understand it's important to measure to be sure.
We don't suffer extreme winds very often, and we don't get the kind of sun of FL.
My interest is in protection during the rain, then snow of winter.
And especially having a leaky vent or other such damage the inside ceiling.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Rick 99037

Humm, I wonder what it would cost to get it to Spokane WA.
I have a 29 ft class A. The book says it's 29' 8". But I understand it's important to measure to be sure.
We don't suffer extreme winds very often, and we don't get the kind of sun of FL.
My interest is in protection during the rain, then snow of winter.
And especially having a leaky vent or other such damage the inside ceiling.

I have never hear of rain hurting an RV? Humidity yes and you can get that without rain. Besides a cover will be worse for humidity

What is advantage of needing a cover for snow? Never heard of snow damage to RV that could have been avoided by cover?

If you have a leaky vent, it should be fixed before storage, but I would agree that if you want to ensure if you happen to spring a leaf in the roof, the cover will help.

I would love to see your pros and cons list and now and then your update after 1 year.

I have covers for my cars, but I only use when I think a hail storm is coming and not near a garage. I have fiberglass roof so I don't work about hail on the RV.

[dkoldman]

I got a question about where in my manual (2019 Sunstar 29VE) I saw where Winnebago is saying to avoid covers?; so I thought I would share.

Note: As stated above there are a number of other reasons why I choose to avoid RV covers in my situation, but every coach and situation may be different.

Simply put I favor simple washing with RV Wash & Wax, and regular treatment of Meguiars Pure Boat & RV Wax #56. I use the 303 Protectant on decals only.

Note #2 I been using boat covers and car covers for years; but for entirely different reasons. To put the covers on them; I do not need a 12 foot ladder and two people.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I got a question about where in my manual (2019 Sunstar 29VE) I saw where Winnebago is saying to avoid covers?; so I thought I would share..

Not familiar with the materials on that? What surfaces are painted? Or asked differently, is the material fiberglass?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

Not familiar with the materials on that? What surfaces are painted? Or asked differently, is the material fiberglass?

On my model the roof is fiberglass and I believe gel coat finish everywhere else? I know Crane Composites (roof mfg) states to wash & wax the roof exactly as specifications for the side walls or rest of the coach which they recommended Meguiars Boat & RV Pure Wax #56

I never thought it would be so difficult to understand mfg owner manuals / specifications let alone to actually follow them But you know what, I am trying

Weather permitting tonight; I may do a time trial on exactly how long it takes me to wash the roof & sides using nothing but RV Wash & Wax & a long pole brush. My thinking is that I can wash & wax my 29ft RV before the next guy can properly install a 29ft cover and properly remove the same.

Truth be told my RV is under a tree but so far so good. I have only had to rinse it off once for little things that fell off after a rain, but it only took me 5 minutes. I spent more time getting the ladder and the hose out

Note: I hand wax'd the roof two weeks ago

By interesting contrast, in the picture you may notice a 2017 Yamaha 242 Limited, The cover is actually a Yamaha OEM Part, but it's goal is to protect the inside more so the finish as all of the boat is not covered. We boaters call it a Mooring Cover when parked overnight on the lake. Point is try to order a RV cover from Winnebago . They don't sell them because they don't want the liability.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

On my model the roof is fiberglass and I believe gel coat finish everywhere else? .

I was asking because my trailer sides are fiberglass and the roof a membrane surface. Nothing I would consider "painted."

Although I would note that painted cars are frequently covered without damage. Not sure what the issue would be with a motorhome, although the surfaces are larger.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

I was asking because my trailer sides are fiberglass and the roof a membrane surface. Nothing I would consider "painted."

Although I would note that painted cars are frequently covered without damage. Not sure what the issue would be with a motorhome, although the surfaces are larger.

If you look at the right side of the picture I uploaded of page 11-2, it tells you what the risk is from Winnebago perspective. I refer to manual; so I am not paraphrasing for Winnebago It is very clear to me.

I have covers for all of my cars and motorcycles, but only for when I perceive a hail storm may be eminent, Halloween night etc.. I have zero concern about Sun or UV damage on my cars as I keep them all waxed and use leather conditioners on the inside. My covers when used; are usually only for a very short duration, NOT Storage.

But make no mistake, car covers ruin car paint finishes all the time. Not always; as there are exceptions, but some insurance companies will not cover damage created by a car cover.

IMO my preferred way to protect an RV in order

1. Indoor Storage (costly and not all that easy to get when you want) Reduced washing required, and wax at least 1 year
2. Covered Storage ( opened on the sides and well ventilated) Regular wash and wax at least 1 year
3. Under a large tree ( Regular wash, with additional rinse when leave start to fall in the Fall, and wax full coach at least twice a year.
4. Use a RV Cover ( Regular wash, and wax full coach at least once a year.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

If you look at the right side of the picture I uploaded of page 11-2, it tells you what the risk is from Winnebago perspective. I refer to manual; so I am not paraphrasing for Winnebago It is very clear to me.

My point was fiberglass is not a painted surface. The color is embedded in the fiberglass. That warning wouldn't apply.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Goodspike

My point was fiberglass is not a painted surface. The color is embedded in the fiberglass. That warning wouldn't apply.

Ahh I see I missed that

I called Winnebago to clarify. They said my model of 2019 29VE has a clearcoat and high gloss gel-coat finish that is over the fiberglass. They market the finish as having an automotive paint look for about $12,000 less in cost that you would not otherwise recover in resale value. They said it is in the manual the way it is because I should treat it as if it were Automotive finish. I am actually treating it BETTER than my automotive finishes as my RV cost more

It took me almost 2 years to buy an RV, and almost 18 months before I started to take Winnebago as a serious affordable option. I am so glad that we waited. I have been an owner 10 months and I love my Winnebago 29VE.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I called Winnebago to clarify. They said my model of 2019 29VE has a clearcoat and high gloss gel-coat finish that is over the fiberglass.

Interesting--I never knew that gel-coat meant that.

[Tireman9]

One thing to consider is the protection of both UV and Heat from direct sunlight. Tires need protection from both and no spray will protect from the sun's heat which can bake the life out of the tire structure due to increased temperature/ The rubber around the belts is critical to tire durability and the increase in temperature accelerated the aging of that rubber. Only a physical shield can keep the tires cooler and prevent damage to the rubber.
Also if you have any vinyl graphics on the RV the Sun can do a job on that material as seen on my RV

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

One thing to consider is the protection of both UV and Heat from direct sunlight. Tires need protection from both and no spray will protect from the sun's heat which can bake the life out of the tire structure due to increased temperature/ The rubber around the belts is critical to tire durability and the increase in temperature accelerated the aging of that rubber. Only a physical shield can keep the tires cooler and prevent damage to the rubber.
Also if you have any vinyl graphics on the RV the Sun can do a job on that material as seen on my RV

Agree on the tires and if I may add, that I would not leave my RV or boat stored in the exact same spot for months on end without driving it, or at least moving a few feet to rotate. That is true even if stored indoors.

In my case I use my RV year around and never in what most call storage mode. I may temporarily drain water and the tanks for freezes; but refill shortly after freeze. Where my RV is parked the tires do not get direct sunlight but for my boat it does and I have two sets of covers that I use for each tire including the spare.

For graphics I use 303 Protectant on my RV after each wash. The longest I had a boat was 14 years and the mooring cover it had did not cover graphics, but I have never had any graphics like what you show in the picture. The picture you show could actually be a fairly new RV if owner parked in the sun and it sat there for as little as 2 years without any type of protection. I am sure that same RV decals would be better off it had been covered, but what other damage it might have encountered if it was equally neglected with a cover on?

One way or the other some work is involved. A good washing and good waxing followed by treatment on the decals (2 hours month) is by far the preferred treatment even if stored indoors. Oh yes, to your point tire covers if store outside in direct sun.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

One thing to consider is the protection of both UV and Heat from direct sunlight. Tires need protection from both and no spray will protect from the sun's heat which can bake the life out of the tire structure due to increased temperature/ The rubber around the belts is critical to tire durability and the increase in temperature accelerated the aging of that rubber. Only a physical shield can keep the tires cooler and prevent damage to the rubber.
Also if you have any vinyl graphics on the RV the Sun can do a job on that material as seen on my RV

I just realized that your name is Tireman and you are in Akron, Ohio

1st thing that comes to my mind is Goodyear

May I ask you a question

But since tires are being discussed with covers, how long ( in years) would you say a brand new tire on a vehicle, boat or RV etc. that has been properly protected, but not used very much if at all should last before it is replaced regardless of tread-ware?

[Wyatt]

Originally Posted by 09 harley

The correct answer is cover it. I personally wouldn’t want to stand outside naked for a whole winter. Neither does your RV.

While you may die if you stayed outside all winter naked, your RV, won’t.

I considered it initially, and rebuked the idea, after considering the following:

We live in a windy area during the summer, and we’d certainly experience chafing.
We’d probably use the RV less of it were covered. No more spontaneous trips. We’ve been in 16 trips in the last year.
Didn’t want to add another level to the checklist for getting ready or coming home from a trip.
I don’t think the roof is designed to be walked on as much as would be required AND, I’m afraid of heights.
Both of our cars remain outside 24/7. The Bronco for 24 years, and the Mercedes for 15, with no appreciable wear from the elements.

Your call...to cover or not to cover...

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I just realized that your name is Tireman and you are in Akron, Ohio

1st thing that comes to my mind is Goodyear

May I ask you a question

But since tires are being discussed with covers, how long ( in years) would you say a brand new tire on a vehicle, boat or RV etc. that has been properly protected, but not used very much if at all should last before it is replaced regardless of tread-ware?

Easy question but complex answer.
Heat the major killer of tires. UV just does surface cosmetic damage and in 40 years as a tire design I can say I have never seen a tire "fail" because of UV damage. Heat however accelerates the aging of the rubber. The "rate" doubles with each increase of 18°F, so as I have posted in my Tire Blog
"Bottom line. It’s a combination of temperature (heat) and time that causes tires to fail. A tire that spends its life in Flagstaff, Ariz., could last twice as long as a tire that spent its life in Phoenix if all other operating conditions were identical.

As the owner of an RV you can significantly affect one factor and that is the heat generated internal to the tire. When you run fast or overloaded or under-inflated you are running hotter. This means you are speeding up the rate of "aging" of your tires and can expect to see a tire fail before it wears out."


You can also significantly lower the temperature during storage by shielding the tires from direct sunlight with either white covers or even a flat mesh as seen on some Class-A RVs

[Tireman9]

From my Blog
Why do tires fail?


Simple question but as with almost every question about tires, the answer is not a one liner. Stick with this post. It's not short but it really isn't technical and I'm sure every reader will understand the concepts.

When looking at why tires fail we need to first exclude the obvious damage caused by external objects i.e. pot holes, curbs, chunks of metal, glass or rock or other trash and junk on the road. Second we'll exclude broken valve bodies, leaky valve cores, valve gaskets, extension hoses, and cracked rims.

What's left will be a structural failure which would almost 100 percent of the time will be a detachment of different parts or components of a tire one from the other.

Most tires are made up of 20 to 30 different components such as different steels (belts and bead are not the same steel) textiles such as Nylon, Polyester, Rayon, Aramid. Then there are the various different rubber components such as Tread, Sidewall, Innerliner, Steel skim, Wedge, Flippers, Chaffer, base tread, Inserts, and other bits and pieces.


Each component is selected for different reasons and contributes both advantages and disadvantages to the total. Each component must "stick" to its neighbors both in the un-cured and cured state. The interface between two different components is weaker than the individual components but it must hold together through millions of cycles over a 200 degree temperature range.

All would be just fine if a tire were made completely of inorganic materials such as metals, stone or even ceramics. There are numerous formulas for the strength and fatigue limits for these inorganic materials.

The issue with organics (wood, rubber or other materials made from oil such as plastics) is that their strength has a "T" or time function. If you build a bridge of stone, you can calculate the maximum load it can sustain and as long as the structure isn’t changed due to external damage its strength will be the same the day it’s built and 50 years later. If I build a pressure vessel of steel and put 150 psi in it and it doesn’t fail I would have every expectation for it to continue to hold that pressure for decades, again excluding external damage.

However, if I build a pressure vessel of organic materials (a tire) it might hold 150 psi the first day or maybe the first few days but at some point it can fail. This principle is not something many engineers think of today because they don’t design bridges of wood but 100 or 150 years ago when wood was common they learned that a bridge that was strong enough to hold a railroad train to drive across, it could fail if the train parked on the bridge.

I educated some fellow tire engineers about this “T” function when I proved, through lab experiments that it was possible to fail a tire with high pressure above its stated max 18 days after it was initially inflated.

The other condition that affects and changes the “T” in the equation is temperature. Organics experience constant change (loss) in properties as the temperature increases. The rate of change (aging) doubles about every 20 degrees of increase in temperature, so it's not easy to calculate or predict the time it will take for an organic structure to fail unless you can control the temperature over time.

Bottom line. It’s a combination of temperature (heat) and time that causes tires to fail. A tire that spends its life in Flagstaff, Ariz., could last twice as long as a tire that spent its life in Phoenix if all other operating conditions were identical.

As the owner of an RV you can significantly affect one factor and that is the heat generated internal to the tire. When you run fast or overloaded or under-inflated you are running hotter. This means you are speeding up the rate of "aging" of your tires and can expect to see a tire fail before it wears out.