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Old 09-14-2021, 06:40 AM   #1
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Jacks stuck, Low Voltage

Help! 2018 Vista 29VE
We needed to go buy new house batteries because our generator wouldn't start but the jacks wouldn't retract, low voltage message.
So we tried to install them ourselves. A nut doesnt fit quite right, AND we noticed that the fuse mounted on the wall of the battery compartment, one of two, was damaged, now, after struggling with the nut, the plastic housing is broken off.
That leaves the hot wires dangling around, sparking.
So we need to drive the Vista 29VE to Transwest, our only dealer but I cannot get the jacks up. With the new batteries the generator started right up but the jacks still say Low Voltage.
How do we make the jacks come up? We can't even have it towed with jacks down.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:44 AM   #2
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Have you tried getting a jump from another vehicle using jumper cables? Electrical tape comes in handy for insulating dangling wires. Use a whole roll, if you have to.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:06 AM   #3
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Did you have the engine running on the motorhome when you tried to raise the jacks? That always helps things like using the jacks, the slides, and starting the generator. Also look for a loose or corroded wire connection to the hydraulic pump motor for the jacks.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:17 AM   #4
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We don't need a jump, the chassis battery works well. At the moment I'm running the engine for an hour hoping it will stop the Low Voltage signal and get the jacks up. It must be something wrong with lack of voltage in the chassis battery.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:19 AM   #5
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Yes Yes and Yes.
I also tried the trick of ignition on, not running engine, and running engine, release emergency brake, hoping to trigger an automatic jack retraction.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:21 AM   #6
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But maybe hooking jumper cable to the chassis battery would boost it enough to get the jacks up.
We can try to jump start it off the Jeep Wrangler, wee also have a new Rav 4 hybrid and not at all sure we can jump off that. Foreign territory.
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Old 09-14-2021, 08:24 AM   #7
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Using the Off Switch on the house batteries, will that prevent sparking if we have to drive it to the dealership with the dangling connectors? After the sparks yesterday I'm sure we blew that dangling fuse with the broken box. I'm just terrified of batteries in general, lol. Hubby managed to put the new ones in but ended up with a loose connection, a stuck nut and a broken fuse box.
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Old 09-14-2021, 09:58 AM   #8
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Some details to get better answers?
It sounds like there may be some simple reasons for the jacks not working and it may be due to the fuse holder broken but some questions first?
I did a snip of the battery box, click it to get a better view but then which big fuse holder is broken? I numbered them 1,2,3 for ease of getting the right one ID'd.

Reason for asking is there may be a problem with the battery supply to the battery cutoff switch and that means the cutoff may not actually be working when you push it!

When you use the cutoff, do the inside lights, etc. go out, showing the switch is really working. If you flip the switch off/on /off the lights should do the same if it is working.

If there is a problem with getting power to the jacks, I would first check where the break may be! That fuse is usually a BIG one like 150 amp or more, so if it blew, lots of things stop working! So kind of do a quick survey of what works or doesn't as a way to cut down on the places to look for problems with the jacks. If you find the fuse is actually broken, it will be okay to do a temporary connection from one side of the broken fuse to the other side, long enough to let the jacks come up. Something like connecting a jumper cable from one side of the fuse to the other side is safe enough for short term getting the jacks to work.
Not something to leave in place and use though as those fuses are what keep the whole RV from catching fire if you have a wreck and the big cables get mashed! Setting in the yard, you are safe enough to do it!

When/if you do need to tow the RV before repairs on the fuse, disconnecting the NEGATIVE (-) cable is the normal way to cut the hazards of sparks, etc when we work on things, as that removes the path for any voltage to do anything else.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:18 AM   #9
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Thanks Morich,
I spoke to our local dealer, made an appt for October and he gave us the main Winnebago # which we called.
They emailed me with a diagram of where the 200 amp fuse is for the jacks.
He didnt offer to send us a replacement though. Like what now?
We did disconnect all the house battery cables. Thanks for the info there. I didnt know what those fuses were for. Wrecks. Makes sense.

Tempted to just let the danged thing rot in the driveway and take a vacation.
I also have an old truck camper threatening to tear off a jack and pitch itself head first into the gravel ATM.

Going to call the dealer and order a fuse. Now I need a handyman to do it.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:34 AM   #10
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In the battery box it is #2 broken and a screw shorted out and melted onto the connector. That will have to be dealt with at the dealership.
Meanwhile the jack fuse is behind the passenger tire, "Littelfuse MEGA 200A"
Maybe if I find one, and advertise on Facebook for a handyman, lol.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:37 AM   #11
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I found one on Amazon. Maybe I can also find the little plastic fuse and box for the #2 spot in the battery box.
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Old 09-14-2021, 10:50 AM   #12
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I also found other Littelfuses on Amazon AND the fuse boxes, which broke. I cant determine the amperage on the #2 too difficult to read, even photo. I didnt know what they were called to even describe to the tech, so you helped.
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Old 09-14-2021, 12:09 PM   #13
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Okay, with that info there may be some help as looking at the drawing and finding #2 fuse, I also see some info if we follow the arrow up and to the left where there is an option bubble 401?
That is the info on parts number for holder and fuse and it does show the fuse as 150AMP. So if those get hard to find, it is likely that one might go to a parts shop with the info of it being 150 amp and if they don't have that exact same holder, sometimes it is worthwhile to get a different holder to mount and a 150 amp fuse to match that holder?

Disclaimer:
I've never actually had to replace one of those fuses and never the holder but it is likely other things use the same type fuse but maybe a different mounting, etc. just as long as you stick with the 150 amp capacity, it works the same. I think the Littlefuse is more a trade name/ brand as they also make tiny little fuses like 5 amp.

I found a Littlefuse that they call a "Mega " fuse at this link:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...se/lighting---
electrical/fuses/fuses/da78d762ece6/littelfuse-150-amp-mega-fuse/lit0/meg150bp

Maybe a local auto parts store? Drag the broken parts in and see how much help they might give? I sometimes send my wife as she gets lots more help than me!!!
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Old 09-15-2021, 05:29 AM   #14
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Thank you. 150 A, I just cannot read the fuse even with camera magnified. The two house batteries may be different from coach, can't tell.

The odd thing is having disabled vehicles in my driveway that can't be even towed, that I'm supposed to fix myself? Last month the shift cable broke on our truck, in Park, narrow driveway. Small town dealership sent mechanics to the house.
Never dreamed the RV could be disabled somewhere that no one will fix but us. This fuse would be a catastrophe out boondocking, wher we don't even have internet.
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Old 09-15-2021, 07:17 AM   #15
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To get it moving by getting the jacks up, I would certainly look at putting a temporary jumper across the broken fuse to see if that does get the jacks up. Just a piece of wire under the nuts on the broken fuse holder might be good enough to pass current long enough to see the jacks come up?
Then if it works and you want to drive it to a shop, Things like rags or cardboard are okay to tape or wrap around any loose ends so they don't touch other metal. One of the things we learn in power school is to lay covers of cardboard or heavy fabric over the other items when we work on hot cables. At low voltages like batteries, the current won't pass through very much of any insulation but the thing to watch is how a sharp edge may penetrate and go THROUGH.
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:23 AM   #16
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Assuming that his Jacks are hydraulic and have return springs, he could loosen the connections at the pump and slowly bleed off the hydraulic pressure. It would probably be messy but would get the jacks up. Wrapping a rag around the connection and wearing safety glasses would be a good idea. Obviously, the system would need to be refilled and blead at the shop.
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Old 09-15-2021, 08:55 AM   #17
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Please excuse me if I’m missing the point, I’ve read the OPs initial post a couple of times.

The jacks are powered by the chassis battery on most of Winnebago’s gas class A motorhomes, not the house batteries.

I know now there is a serious issue with the house batteries that needs solved. But the low voltage on the jacks control panel would indicate that the chassis battery is the issue. I know the OP said it starts the RV and he’s run the motor to add charge to the chassis battery, but perhaps replacing the chassis battery even temporarily if necessary would get the jacks up?

One other thing, instead of guessing and waiting and being stuck until Transwest can get you in, you might find a good independent mobile RV tech to come to your home and get this fixed in days rather than months.

A Google search shows a few in Grand Junction that look capable.
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Old 09-15-2021, 09:36 AM   #18
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Jumper!
The one thing I didn't think of til today is Mobile RV Techs!
LOL, my last birthday has ruined my brain.
We might need a new chassis battery too as this is 3 years old in a dry climate, neglected and maybe doesn't even have enough water.
Thanks so much.
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Old 09-15-2021, 09:38 AM   #19
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So that is the emergency solution for jacks, no one mentioned that. I doubt we will need it since it finally occured to me to find a Mobile RV Tech, lol.
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Old 09-15-2021, 09:44 AM   #20
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Fully agree, there seems to be two different problems to deal with and the broken fuse holder may be the simple one of the two.
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