Splendide Washer Dead After Power Issue

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 01:21 PM

Last Week at 2am on a Thursday morning we were woken up by a loud pop and noticed no power inside the coach. Smelled burning plastic. I bolted out of bed and checked for a fire inside the coach, nothing. Next went outside and opened the power bay where the Power Switch is located....smoke coming out. I quickly threw all the breakers on the power pole off and disconnected the power cord from the RV to the pole. After first light, I opened up the Power Switch cover and saw what had happened. Burned it up! I have pictures to add later to this post later.

After getting quotes from a mobile service, it eventually cost us $855 to get that Power Switch replaced. The MacDill AFB Famcamp Office sent out an electrician to check the power pole as I was unable to remove my 50 Amp Surge protector from the plug on the power pole. The electrician pulled the pole apart and checked for a possible surge and could not find any evidence that there was a power surge. The 50 Amp Surge Protector was still indicating it was operating and there were no wiring issues detected (all LED lights were green on the protector).

So, after going through all of this and getting back on to 50 Amp service, I discovered the Washer inside was dead (dryer still works). I checked the breakers under the bed and all appears to be OK.

Does the dead washer have anything to do with the Power Switch burning up or is this just a coincidence? We were not using the washer at the time we experienced the total power failure.

I have pulled the wiring diagrams for my coach, and it appears the washer and dryer are on separate circuits to the "EMS" (I guess that is the breaker box under my bed?).

So, I am not sure what happened to the washer.

powercat_ras · 09-15-2023, 02:25 PM

I assume by "power switch" you are probally talking about a basement mounted unit called "Automatic Transfer Switch". It's possible that one side of your circuits in the RV might have seen as much 240 volts when they should normally see 120 volts for that short amount of time before you were able to threw the circuit breakers and disconnected the power cord, after you heard the loud pop. This could have damaged the Energy Management System (EMS) or the washer. The EMS is separate from the box with the circuit breakers and is in series with the cables from the circuit breaker box to the loads the EMS can enable/disable.

You might try plugging the washer into a different electrical outlet using a extension cord and see if it works. That might isolate if its the EMS or the washer having the problem.

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 02:59 PM

Yes, "Automatic Transfer Switch". Is the EMS under the bed?

I will try your suggestion and run the power plug from the washer to another plug. I guess that means somehow pulling the washer out of the cabinet. Not sure how to do it, but will look into it.

powercat_ras · 09-15-2023, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armullis59

Yes, "Automatic Transfer Switch". Is the EMS under the bed?

I will try your suggestion and run the power plug from the washer to another plug. I guess that means somehow pulling the washer out of the cabinet. Not sure how to do it, but will look into it.

If it turns out the washer is OK when plugged in elsewhere ...

I pulled up the breaker box drawing for your RV and right inside the breaker box is a switching control module that the Energy Management System controller (a panel mounted on the wall of your RV somewhere at about eye level) uses to sense if things are being used, and that it sends signals to to connect or disconnect the hot water heater from AC power based on the kind of power source you are using when washer and/or dryer are being used. Its replacable IF the part is still being made and can be found, or someone qualified could run the power for the washer straight off the breaker. In that case the EMS could not sense that the washer is drawing power and do its energy management thing when on 30 amp or generator running to prevent overloads.

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 03:25 PM

Ok, that panel is on the wall with the generator controls and the slide controls. I will look at it when I get back to the coach. Thanks.

powercat_ras · 09-15-2023, 03:29 PM

It would be the module inside the breaker box that would have the internal section that the washer power goes thru that might be bad, the panel on the wall just decides if your RV is on 50, 30, or generator power and decides accordingly if the electric hot water heater needs to be off to prevent overload when other appliances like the washer or dryer are running.

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 03:57 PM

OK, I will dive into this when I can. Your help does narrow my focus! I will let you know what I find later. Thanks!

powercat_ras · 09-15-2023, 05:02 PM

FYI ...

Load Center / ATS Diagram for 2016 Adventurer 37F

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 05:19 PM

Just for documentation purposes, here is a link to the mounting brackets for the washer feet.

http://splendide.com/downloads/MK01_Installation.pdf

This will tell someone how to pull the washer out for maintenance.

powercat_ras · 09-15-2023, 05:28 PM

Also ... the washer is on its own dedicated circuit breaker in the power center, be sure to check that it is not tripped and needing to be turned back to ON before you start doing all the work to get to the power cord on the back of it. Good luck.

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 05:28 PM

Yup. Looked at this one too. Thanks again!

armullis59 · 09-15-2023, 05:30 PM

Checked and rechecked it! I will check it one more time too! Always measure twice, and cut once....

Ray,IN · 09-15-2023, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armullis59

Last Week at 2am on a Thursday morning we were woken up by a loud pop and noticed no power inside the coach. Smelled burning plastic. I bolted out of bed and checked for a fire inside the coach, nothing. Next went outside and opened the power bay where the Power Switch is located....smoke coming out. I quickly threw all the breakers on the power pole off and disconnected the power cord from the RV to the pole. After first light, I opened up the Power Switch cover and saw what had happened. Burned it up! I have pictures to add later to this post later.

After getting quotes from a mobile service, it eventually cost us $855 to get that Power Switch replaced. The MacDill AFB Famcamp Office sent out an electrician to check the power pole as I was unable to remove my 50 Amp Surge protector from the plug on the power pole. The electrician pulled the pole apart and checked for a possible surge and could not find any evidence that there was a power surge. The 50 Amp Surge Protector was still indicating it was operating and there were no wiring issues detected (all LED lights were green on the protector).

So, after going through all of this and getting back on to 50 Amp service, I discovered the Washer inside was dead (dryer still works). I checked the breakers under the bed and all appears to be OK.

Does the dead washer have anything to do with the Power Switch burning up or is this just a coincidence? We were not using the washer at the time we experienced the total power failure.

I have pulled the wiring diagrams for my coach, and it appears the washer and dryer are on separate circuits to the "EMS" (I guess that is the breaker box under my bed?).

So, I am not sure what happened to the washer.

The Splendide factory-reset is to unplug the machine for at least 20 min.,. later plug it and see if it runs.
This pdf tells how to test the machine functions for proper operation:
http://splendide.com/service/TRAINMAN_TechTips.pdf
Then this: Fixing a Splendide that won't work

armullis59 · 09-16-2023, 06:57 AM

jerichorick · 09-22-2023, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armullis59

My suggestion is three fold. 1/ shut the washer breaker off all the way to make certain it is not tripped. Turn it back on and see if that makes a difference.
2/ Shut off the main breaker to reset the EMS. Now try the washer.
3/ Move the wire from the washer breaker to the dryer breaker. If the washer works on this try replace the washer breaker set.
Does the Monitor Panel show the washer in the shed mode?
Rick

armullis59 · 09-22-2023, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

My suggestion is three fold. 1/ shut the washer breaker off all the way to make certain it is not tripped. Turn it back on and see if that makes a difference.
2/ Shut off the main breaker to reset the EMS. Now try the washer.
3/ Move the wire from the washer breaker to the dryer breaker. If the washer works on this try replace the washer breaker set.
Does the Monitor Panel show the washer in the shed mode?
Rick

1. Already tried that
2. Question: Main breaker at the panel under the bed or outside on the power pole?
3. Moving the wire might happen to test your theory. The EMS Panel on the wall says both the Washer and Dryer circuits are "ON".

Ray,IN · 09-22-2023, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armullis59

WOW! It's a good thing it was a metal box or it might have burned down your RV, and you.

armullis59 · 09-22-2023, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

WOW! It's a good thing it was a metal box or it might have burned down your RV, and you.

Yes!

armullis59 · 09-22-2023, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

I assume by "power switch" you are probally talking about a basement mounted unit called "Automatic Transfer Switch". It's possible that one side of your circuits in the RV might have seen as much 240 volts when they should normally see 120 volts for that short amount of time before you were able to threw the circuit breakers and disconnected the power cord, after you heard the loud pop. This could have damaged the Energy Management System (EMS) or the washer. The EMS is separate from the box with the circuit breakers and is in series with the cables from the circuit breaker box to the loads the EMS can enable/disable.

You might try plugging the washer into a different electrical outlet using a extension cord and see if it works. That might isolate if its the EMS or the washer having the problem.

The Washer is wedged under the shelf that holds the Dryer. To get the Washer out to gain access to the plug, it looks like the dryer has to come out first, then remove the shelf. Alot of work just to get to a plug! Not sure I am ready for it.

Morich · 09-22-2023, 12:47 PM

Sometimes we read instructions and it is good to take it slow and do it exactly right! But sometimes a little more looking/thinking will show easier ways to go and this seems to be one where I would not go to the trouble of removing so much to get to the plug of the washer!

Thinking what the plug does can lead to what looks like a better way than moving it out? I t just lead you to KNOW you have to move it but I like to avoid jumping that far if it can be avoided!!!

Taking that plug out of the wall cuts off any power going to the washer as well as any ground, correct?
So is it easier to get to the wires feeding that plug and open them? It is not the 20-30 feet of wire between the feed and the outlet where the washer is plugged that they want removed but the power and ground to the washer, so look for the easier spot to remove those and it will be proof enough!

I am assuming the burned item is the power shedding? And you will be wanting to take that out? I would go there, since you have to open it there to replace things and while it is out, the power and ground are disconnected, so I would not look at disconnecting the power cord at the washer if it is not reset by opening the chain here, it is not likely to reset by opening it closer to the washer!

If you have a meter handy and want to test further, look for continuity on the wires going from this point toward the washer when the washer s off and then changing when you move the switches to start the washer! They should read open and then close as you move the switches as if starting the washer!

THEN, IF necessary, you will know if you need to take the washer out!