Need to replace blower in basement AC in 2000 Ultimate Freedom 40

[sailmckee]

Does anyone in the group have any experience with removing the Coleman basement AC unit in order to replace the squirrel cage fan? In other reading i believe that the metal fan is coming undone where it is pressed on the end of the motor shaft. I have found the two large bolts, one on each side, that seem to allow the unit to drop a couple of inches in order to slide out the front. I have disconnected the electrical service to the unit and am trying to disconnect the output duct but am having major difficulty getting the screws on the top of the duct flange out. Maybe this step is not necessary? I would appreciate any guidance you might offer.

[creativepart]

Here's a YouTube video on a guy that removed his basement A/C in his 2003 Adventurer. He plans on replacing it with a 12v "mini-split" style system. But the video shows the removal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylhBT67JqdM

[rgvtexan]

Download this file, it has helped many!

https://www.irv2.com/forums/download...do=file&id=435

[be happy]

A couple years back I had to replace a fan bushing, which required the units removal.

Watch the videos and read all the infomation provided, I could not find the link I used.

Anyway the hardest part for me was unscrewing the duct work from the unit. To little space and bad tool selection. Someone posted about the AC and removed the bottom part of the coach fiberglass rear. That made it so easy to remove the duct work.

There are four bolts that hold the unit up. Once you lower the frame the AC will slide out. Make sure you have some type of table to hold the AC while out of the frame. I used 5gal buckets and plywood. Once out its a fairly up front process. You might as well change out all the capacitor while unit is out.

Good Luck

[Ray,IN]

I rebuilt my 6535 this past June. Do you know if the indoor fan or outdoor fan is coming apart? I rented a hydraulic cart to support the unit when removing it from the MH, sure made things easy.
Duner has an excellent how-to guide with pictures,
The unit weighs approx. 200#, so unless you buy/rent an hydraulic cart it requires 2 men to remove from the MH.
There are 2 brackets the keep the unit in place. First the chilled air duct must be removed from the stern end of the unit though. The return air duct is simply held in place by those retaining brackets-no screws..

Duner has included the replacement plastic squirrel cage fan part# in his write-up.
You need to buy 1½ X 3/4" sticky-back foam tape for reinstalling the unit, I think I bought a 10' roll and had some left-over.
You'll need to buy a roll of 3/8"x1/4" sticky back foam tape to place on the chilled air/ exhaust divider under the lid; the old will tear and fall apart when the lid is removed.
Once you back out those 2 " bolts until the support bracket rests on the framework, the unit must be tilted down so it will slide out. There will be 2 styrofoam insulation boards on top of the unit, take care not to break them.
From this point Duners instructions are very complete.


Jim HyTek on irv2.com also has a write-up with pictures. Jim removed the bottom half of his rear cap to make access easier, but it is not required.
Both Duner and Jim HyTek replaced the fan shaft bushings with bearings, but the local electrical motor rebuild shop said the bushings last longer than bearings in this application. Just fill the oil caps with 3 in 1 oil.
RVP 6535 Service Manual
RV{ 6535 parts list



While you have the lid off the unit, consider lengthening the ODFM-outdoor fan motor capacitor leads to move that cap into the electrical box with the other 5 caps; otherwise if that ODFM cap fails you must remove the unit from the MH again.
I drilled a hole near the top of the divider for the wires. I used a short piece of gas line hose through the hole to protect the wires from getting cut by the sheet metal. I used a zip-tie to hold the gas line firmly in the sheet metal hole then ran the extended leads through into the electrical box.