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Old 01-14-2024, 01:31 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jan 2024
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2022 Micro Minnie FLX 2108TB heated underbelly

Getting ready to go through a few days where the temp will be in the teens.

I read quite a few places that the FLX heater ducts into the underbelly. However, I had an error code (W 27 H) on the control panel indicating warm air outlet blockage.

I removed the duct panel under the fridge and there is only about an inch of ducting running to the outlet on the panel and that is it. I do not see how any of the heat could possibly get into the underbelly.

I removed the panel under the sink and put a thermometer into a hole that has some wires and the hose for the black tank flush and it reads 36deg and it is currently 33deg outside. I do have the heater running. So I am very skeptical and now worried I didn't do enough to prepare.

Taking advice of others I have heated water hose, running tank heaters, fresh tank reading 1/3. I had planned on letting the kitchen tap drip and was advised to leave grey tank open. I have full hook-ups.

I have read others spending even longer in lower temps taking very little prep with the heated hose with no issues but they also mentioned the underbelly was heated.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-14-2024, 06:49 PM   #2
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Location: Asheville, NC
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We have boondocked in our 2108ds with ambients in the 20s dropping to single digits at night. The furnace is very good, but you need plenty of battery amphrs to run the furnace fan, and to run the fridge, and heating mats. Low temps like that will go thru about 1/2 tank of propane per day. So, after a couple of days, we moved to full hookups, so we could run a ceramic heater. We did not connect our hose at all. We just pumped water from the fresh tank. Not enough heat reaches underbelly, so we kept heating mats on all night and part-time in the day. We saw about 3 amps draw for the two of them, plus another 1.5 amps for our battery heating mat. We also left lower cabinet doors open at all times, and used a couple of 12v usb fans to circulate heat toward plumbing.

With hookups, it’s not a problem. Boondocking requires some generator runs to keep 200ah of LFP running.

Condensation becomes a problem. We didn’t have reflectix for windows, which would have helped a lot. Using the ceramic heater cut down on furnace cycling, and thus produced less condensation. Strongly advise getting reflectix if you’re going to be doing this for a long time. I suspect you won’t need a battery heating mat because the FLX battery mounted under bed, right? If it’s in the pass thru, it needs heating.
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Old 01-14-2024, 07:15 PM   #3
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Thank you so much for the reply. The battery is under the bed but I have the Twin Bed model so but the pass thru is like a U shape. So like I can open a door under the bed and see the battery but also the pass thru door on on side and if I open the door under the other bed I can see the other door and if I went outside and I can look through the pass through.

I know I sound so confusing. Probably not the most efficient design for sure.
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