Cracked low point drain valve 2021 Micro Minnie 2108DS

[RedRockEngr]

Our 2021 2108DS Micro Minnie just developed a leak which left the water pump cycling. I found the cold water low point drain valve body spraying out a small stream of water. I am reluctant to replace the cracked valve with the same stock plastic valve and I would like to know what recommendations others may have. These lines are 1/2" Pex.

[Eagle5]

Hi RedRockEngr,
Is it possible that the valve was damaged by freezing? If so, I would replace same-with-same. Are you using a blow-out method to winterize?
Eagle5

[powercat_ras]

I suggest you want to replace with the same specialty 90 degree low point drain valve, to maintain the integrity of the low point drain design and so you don't have to change the location of the hole that is already thru the floor.

Good news is that you can buy an exact replacement direct from Amazon.com and have it in a few days. You could get the tools to do the job to remove the existing pex crimp ring and crimp the fitting back onto the PEX yourself for fifty or sixty dollars if you don't already have them and still spend less than having a dealer do the job, and you would then have PEX tools and cinch clamps for the next time something happens. You can also buy a few 1/2" PEX fittings and a short piece of 1/2" tubing to carry as well to go along with the tools at any home center.

Low Point Drain - 90 degree - Amazon.com

[be happy]

I am going to go another way for you. It really depends on where the exit hole is as for as being accessible.

I would put coupler between old and new pex. Run the pex through the hole all ready there and then put a threaded fitting on the end of pex with a cap. Only draw back I see is getting alittle wet removing the cap.

[Marine359]

I replaced with the valve Paul recommended from Amazon. The old one didn't spring a leak, but would not snap close completely, so there was a slow drip that caused pump to cycle. Really hard to reach in under the sink to make the repair. Feeling around with screwdriver. Took me hours with lots of skinned elbows, and bruised forehead, then recharging headlamp. ARRGH. Not enjoyable work for an old guy.

[RedRockEngr]

Possible Eagle5, but since we were using it I just kept a heater running and the interior at about 45°F. That may have been too cool with outside temps in the low 20s given this is on the floor with outside temps only 2" or less away.

[Eagle5]

Hi RedRockEngr,
It does sound like freeze damage to me. Here is how I use a blow-out method. It is quick & easy.
Winterizing a 22M using the blow-out method
Thanks, Eagle5

[Marine359]

He was using the camper at when it froze, Eagle5. That’s quite possible given the location of the valve. This is why I leave all lower cabinet door open at night when we are camping in freezing weather, AND the camper is not winterized. The access to the spaces under the bathroom sink and fronting the hot water heater are not doors and not fun to remove when you want to open them. That’s why I removed the screws on the access luan panels and installed magnetic catches and drawer pulls. When it’s cold, I remove the luan hatches and lean them against the wall. The heating vent is close enough that it keeps that area warm with panels off. Then I use a 12v fan to blow hot air forward. This mod also allows you to use the under sink area for lightweight storage.

[Ray,IN]

Marine359 that is an excellent explanation of how to prevent freezing the plumbing!

[Morich]

What is the situation for space to work? I do not favor going with the PEX toos if space is limited but that is one time when I don't mind going for more expensive parts if it is something I can reach to use something like Sharkbite fittings.
The fitting for a tee may run $10-15 but I call that well spent, if it means I avoid buying the PEX tool and beating myself silly to get it in to work.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1%2F...vssid=uvpv-713
Lots of options but I might look at some form of the sharkbite for the tee and then go with Pvc valve to go down.

[RedRockEngr]

Field repair complete, thank you all for your excellent advice. I will get the tools, fittings, and valve when I get home to make the correct repair with the valve installed.

I'll be more diligent about winterizing when it's reasonable, I really like the non-chemical blow it out method.

I'll also be making my panels more easily removable to allow warmer air in sub-freezing weather.

Pete

Update: Morich, under the bathroom sink if I lay in front of the toilet I have room for 1 arm and my head, OR room for two arms. So it kind of see what you're doing OR get the job done right. My bath is identical to Marine359 and I'm working in the right bay there. The water heater is accessible in the left bay.

[Morich]

Yes, I had assumed the access to be tight and hard to get any tools in!
With that in mind, I totally move away from the handy looking sharkbite type as they are definite things that need both hands and good pressure to get the fitting pressed on.
Good for the right place where you can get two ( or more! ) arms hands and legs in!
If that is now a threaded, I'm guessing maybe screwing and angle stop on may be the most workable but still not a good place.
For matching/fitting the hole through the floor, there may be some value in going with and angle stop like we find behind bathroom stools as they use a smaller tube outlet. That may make it easier to slip the thinner tube down through the existing hople, even if not perfectly aligned.
Downside is that the draining WILL be slightly slower but if only done once/twice a year for storage, that may be a worthwhile compromise?

What I see as value is that we can often get the threaded fitting almost as tight as needed by hand and then a tool make only be needed for a little bit of added.
With the thin, far more flexible plastic drain through the floor, I could see putting the valve on, screwed tight and then slide the drainline up from underneath.
Drag that line far enough out to be able to fit the ferrule and nut on and then slide it back down. the thinner material may let you flex it enough to get it into the angle stop and screwed tight. This last may be easier as the wrench can then be laying on the floor where it is easier to keep it on and the "swing" of the wrench is in a handier direction!

But that is a whole lot of theory from a distance and may not be a true story!!!
Ugly things can show up in real life???

Maybe something like this for the smaller handle? the 1/4 turn is nice when we have a hard time reaching to drain?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCra...X-C1/202047053

[Marine359]

I was able to use a small blade screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the supply side of the valve. Once loose, I pried the valve loose from the floor using channel locks. Then lifted out the valve with the down pipe. I already had a clamp tool at home that I had used before. I did not try to re-use the down pipe. Just threw it away with the valve. Used some scrap pipe I had and clamped it on the down side of valve. Put a stainless clamp over the supply side pex line and reinserted valve into floor. The really hard part was positioning the clamping tool and getting enough leverage to secure the clamp. Takes two hands. So had to position first, then reach in with both hands to squeeze the tool. My tool barely fit in there. So if you’re gonna go this route, buy a clamping tool with short handles, or maybe one of those angle tools. Your neck and arms will get very sore. I suppose another option would be to disassemble the cabinet to gain easier access. Maybe it would have been easier to use braided hose and secure with hose clamps. Since I limit city water pressure to 40psi, that might have worked. But I was already too far in to change paddles.

[Morich]

If there is a floor in the cabinet above that is restricting the space, it may be amazing how easy it can be to tease that bottom layer out to open the whole area?

Just assuming this might be the case, one way to get tit started is to put something like a block of 2x under the cabinet base and then use a "Wonder bar" to pry the block up, pressing up on the cabinet floor above!
Those I have fought were only held together with a few staples, so prying out did little damage and then replacing , I just used a heavy duty staple gun.
Glue was first thought when going back but that makes any second trip much, much worse!

[Marine359]

That woulda made it so much easier.

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by Marine359

That woulda made it so much easier.

And probably could have lifted the sink off, then reached all the way through with the clamping tool. Hindsight is amazing.

[RedRockEngr]

You ALL have such great ideas!
I use those 1/4 turn valves throughout the house, but my experience with plumbing tells me that would be a "2 trip to the store" project converting from Pex. I'll stick with the stock solution.
Removing the shelf above sounds like working smarter - which I try to do, but rarely succeed at.

[Morich]

ARRGH! You caught me looking too quick! I thought I was seeing a fitting you added with some form of screw cap for stopper! Closer look, I see it has a PEX clamp!
Just proving that when it comes to small plumbing there is never an end to the new parts, I've never seen before!
If you have the tool to do one clamp, I would stick with it but look for more space to work??

[RedRockEngr]

All done, the hardest part of the final fix was making the final Pex crimp. The Shark Bite cap came off easily! I salvaged the core of the old valve in case I need a handle or o-rings.
To do the final crimp I needed 3 hands and better visibility! After about 4 tries I finally had the crimp tool lined up and just snug on the clamp. Then a lot of grunting finally got the crimp all the way.

[Marine359]

Originally Posted by RedRockEngr

All done, the hardest part of the final fix was making the final Pex crimp. The Shark Bite cap came off easily! I salvaged the core of the old valve in case I need a handle or o-rings.
To do the final crimp I needed 3 hands and better visibility! After about 4 tries I finally had the crimp tool lined up and just snug on the clamp. Then a lot of grunting finally got the crimp all the way.

Yeah, crimping the cinch clamp was really hard. I feel for you. Took me an hour just to do that part. But, I’m old and tire easily. What’s your excuse?