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Old 02-28-2024, 05:27 PM   #1
Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2023
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Dealing with low sewage pipes Micro Minnie 2106FBS

I'm trying to deal with what seems to be common problem with some Winnebago trailers. My 2017 model 2106FBS trailer has had it's sewage lines repaired twice due to our driving down dirt roads and hitting spots which broke the lines. They actually hang very low to the ground (which isn't clear from this attached picture, because the ground here actually drops off quite a lot in this location).

Some people have suggested putting a rubber coupling into each line so that if anything hits it, it would just pull off the sleeve and not break the pipes. I'm seriously thinking this would be a great idea!

In addition to the coupling idea, I'm thinking of cutting off the pipe at the place pointed to by the orange arrow in the picture, then putting a new mount on the end and reattaching my mounted termination valve. This would take the end of the pipe back to somewhat even with the main support structure under the trailer and then I could reattach it in a more sturdy way there.

Also, there's the possibility of pulling it up tight under the trailer support (due to a flexible coupling as mentioned above) and attaching it tighter to the underside of the the trailer, lowering it when in use.

(I thought about trying to reroute the lines to be closer to the wheels as some people have suggested in other posts, but this would be a lot of work. Maybe I can have someone look at doing this at some point, but right now I'm getting ready to go on a long trip across the country, so I'm looking for smaller efforts which may still help.)

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Old 02-28-2024, 09:50 PM   #2
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Location: South Bend, WA
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Hi raj,
Your ideas all sound interesting. Another thought would be to get a trailer lift kit and get the whole mess up a couple of inches.
Thanks, Eagle5
2019 Minnie Winnie 22M on an E-450 frame
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Old 02-28-2024, 11:00 PM   #3
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I talked to the best local RV service place in my area. They tell me that raising the trailer would involve welding new brackets to the bottom and would ultimately cost over $2k! I could easily see that, having looked at the way the axles are attached. They are torsion axles and are mounted directly to the under side of the trailer struts. No adjustment, as exists for some models, is possible.
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Old 03-02-2024, 05:42 PM   #4
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Hold-up! Asking an RV service center to install a spacer between axle bracket and trailer frame involves their legal dept.
Locate a welding shop and show them pictures of how your axles are presently mounted, and ask if they can put a 3" spacer between them and trailer frame that will withstand going off-road.
Shoot, I had a HDT & trailer repair shop in Chamberlain SD move the rear axle back 3" and install 4 new larger tires. The total bill was less than $2k.
Stay away from RV anything for this type work.

OTOH, it may be less money to re-route the waste plumbing
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA. "We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution." Abraham Lincoln
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Old 03-04-2024, 05:46 PM   #5
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Here's a link to my gallery showing my axle risers. There's also a drawing by bcborn who built his own risers using measurement off of my risers.

My risers are Lippert factory risers #LC270682, they have been discontinued. I purchased mine from etrailer a while ago.

Here is a link to bcborn's gallery showing the risers he built.

2016 Winnebago Micro Minnie 2106DS, 200Ah BB, 400w rooftop & 500w front cap solar
2020 Tundra SR5 DLCB TRD Off Road, 5.7L V8 w/6.5' bed & 38 gal. tank, 4.30 axle ratio
Blue Ox Sway Pro w/750# bars, wired RVS rear view camera, Renogy 20A DC/DC charger
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