2020 Micro Minnie 2106DS grey tank leaks

[Ethan]

Went on a trip this weekend and now our grey tank is leaking. Looks like it's above where the drain comes out next to the black tank. Unless I cut open the belly to find out where grey tank is leaking can't see where it's at. Anyone have knowledge of how to best approach this to find the cause of the leak. We have a 2020 2106DS bought new. Frustrating only two years old and now leaking underneath. Thanks and appreciate any input.

[Eagle5]

Hi Ethan,
Well, if the belly cover cannot be removed intact, then perhaps a Video Endoscope would allow you to minimize how much you need to cut open.
Eagle5

[Lv2Roam2]

Check on the Winnebago site for your plumbing drawings and check if there's any vents from the interior space near the tank drains into your sub-space. There also may be a removable panel close by on a wall, in a cabinet or closet that accesses parts of the tanks for inspection / repair. Sometimes a long arm and a mirror helps find loose fittings, cracks, etc. Note that these tanks have roof vents so check to ensure the vent cover is in place and the roof sealant is intact.

Appreciate that you're concerned about grey water leaking - with one of our trailers and a 5ver we were fooled into thinking grey water by the fresh water overflow. Of course - the FW tank was filled to the absolute max on our driveway before heading out for the weekend. By the time that water overflowed and sloshed throughout the underbody it sure looked pretty 'grey.'

If it is confirmed as grey water you may want to 'open' the belly so you can do a thorough cleaning - the smell can be worse than the black water.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Lv2Roam2

Check on the Winnebago site for your plumbing drawings and check if there's any vents from the interior space near the tank drains into your sub-space.

Unfortunately, Winnebago does not post any information on line for travel trailers. So this is not an option.

Many times contacting Winnebago Towables directly can, however, get them to email you such diagrams. It’s always worth a try.

[Morich]

The first problem with sorting water is to find which is leaking and "for sure" as it does run all around and come out at funny times and places to confuse us.
Just the tilt of the trailer can make is come out left side instead of right!
First thought for me is that it is not likely to be the tank itself, even if it is grey water as there are so many points along the drain lines which are far more likely point to leak.
Basic only one point on the tank to leak at the big drain connection, while every joint in the line is a potential leak!
So a test to see if it is more likely at the tank may help.
Fill the tank with clear water and add a bunch of food coloring like green, blue, red that shows up well. Add this water and color at a point as near the tank as you can to try to cut more of the various drain questions as possible.
Then wait and see if there is colored water coming out. A tank drain connection will continue to leak for a long time if it is a full tank and small leak!

But if it is actually a drain line leak at some point in the trailer, it may reguire much more slow steady testing.
By nature, the tank drain is low while the drain lines are high to drop into the tank near topside. So you can use that idea to find if it is the low or high points. But to sort WHICH line might be leaking -if you get to that point, you may have to do it over several days, testing each drain one at a time and working your way further out from the tank.
It is going to be a tough deal to sort without having good ideas of where the line run on trailers. One point that is a frequent flyer is the connection under the shower where there is limited space to fix and aparently not a good place to install it correctly! Check that it is not just a poorly installed drain in the shower base that makes you thing it is a line or tank leak!

[Ethan]

Richard I think I found where the leak is. Winterized the unit and pour RV anti freeze down shower drain. Then only less than a minute anti freeze was dripping thru the belly cover. No leaking until the shower drain was flushed. Seems only way to get to this is pull the belly cover off. Any direction on how this is done? Thanks for all the input.

[Morich]

No experience with the newer trailers but many showers have the floor raised a few inches above the main floor and access is best by taking a panel off, often at the front??
Maybe look at how much the shower floor is above the main floor and think if there is enough room to get in their. Often tight, very tight to get wrenches in and work.
But there is often a large "nut" screwed on the draing fitting and it can get loose orthen there is often an elbow to run the drain pipe to the side. One or both of those are frequent problems and tight to get to fix!
Or since I never quite know what to expect, you may be lucky enough to find you have a taller space to work and they have a trap right under the shower floor.

If you find it easy to get in and work, go buy a lottery ticket real quick!

[Ray,IN]

Older RV's used "P" traps in drain lines, some new RV's use a Hepvo valve to reduce the space underneath showers.
Nearly all drain connections are glued together, but the Hepvo valve has threaded attachments. If your RV has hand-tightened fitting, make sure those are tight before getting into the insulated belly.


BTW, if your RV does have a Hepvo valve, NEVER run anything through it, or you ruin the membrane seal.



As you can tell, I subscribe to the KISS principle. I do the free, easy stuff first.

[backtrack15]

You could buy a $30 endoscope to help sort this out. On the Micro Minnie, you can slip the endoscope over the frame rail and under the fabric covering (they are not attached to each other). This allows you to see what is going on without cutting the coroplast. Once you get a visual on it, you’ll be able to plan your repairs. You can also find many uses for the endoscope inside the trailer and at home.

You can get isometrics for the drain plumbing from Winnebago. You just have to call and ask for them.

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by Ethan

Richard I think I found where the leak is. Winterized the unit and pour RV anti freeze down shower drain. Then only less than a minute anti freeze was dripping thru the belly cover. No leaking until the shower drain was flushed. Seems only way to get to this is pull the belly cover off. Any direction on how this is done? Thanks for all the input.

Ethan, this PDF may help, sounds like you may be having a similar problem. I pulled this PDF from the files posted to the Winnebago Micro Minnie Owners Facebook Group.

Fred

[JoshBap]

Hi Fred,
Question for you, do you know the easiest way to remove that cabinet there? I’m having a leak as well and I also would like to know how you installed that fireplace u have in that cabinet? Is it just visual or provide heat as well? I checked the bran you have and it is out of stock. Any other brand you recommend? We mostly boondock and use solar. Not sure how much power that pulls, how you connected it, etc…thank u

[Fred 2106DS]

Hi Josh,

I don't know the best way to remove the cabinet. I have never had the need to remove it. I assume it is screwed to the floor and wall but I'm not home to check it out. I can take a look this weekend if you want me to.

As for the fireplace, its USB powered and is just for ambiance, it does not put off any heat. As for power consumption, it uses next to nothing.
Here's a link to a post I did, five years ago, with pictures of the install. The fireplace runs off a USB timer that you can see mounted on the side of the cabinet, in the next to last picture. I checked the link for the timer and it isn't available either. I don't have any recommendations for other fireplaces or timers. From what I remember when I was planning the install that was the only fireplace that fit the bill. As for the timer it has a 12V input and a USB 5V output. I powered it off the 12V input for the radio.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
Fred

[Fred 2106DS]

Here's a better picture of the timer.

[JoshBap]

Hi Fred,
I know in one of your posts you put some pics up of the water miser instal…Do you happen to have a total parts list, any issues I should know about, and some better pics of the connection to your fresh water fill hose please? I snap shotted the pics you posted but it’s hard to see exactly what parts you used. Looking at doing this as my next project.

Thank you,
Josh

[Fred 2106DS]

Originally Posted by JoshBap

Hi Fred,
I know in one of your posts you put some pics up of the water miser instal…Do you happen to have a total parts list, any issues I should know about, and some better pics of the connection to your fresh water fill hose please? I snap shotted the pics you posted but it’s hard to see exactly what parts you used. Looking at doing this as my next project.

Thank you,
Josh

Hi Josh,

I'll post the additional information and pictures in a day or two. I'm currently away from home.

Here's a link to my original post which lists the parts I used for the fresh water return connection. I had to modify the PVC Tee and Elbow which I will explain and provide additional pictures showing the modifications in my follow up post.

Thanks,
Fred

[JoshBap]

Ok thank you! So I snapped screenshots of the parts and the pics. I’m a very visual/hands on person. Hard to see in the pics exactly how it’s connected that’s all. And then from that clear flexible hose you have to the pex…that connection. I’d like to know how you “transferred over”? I’m assuming just a barbed 1/2” pex connection?
Thanks

[Fred 2106DS]

Hey Josh, I actually ended up having some free time this evening.

Here are the pictures that show how I built and installed the fresh water return connection.

The first picture is just the fresh water fill inlet with the OEM fill hose disconnected.

The second picture is a close up of the installed fresh water return connection. I used a 1 1/4" flexible PVC coupling to make the connection between the fresh water fill inlet and the fresh water return connection.

Pictures three and four show the fresh water return connection which is made up of an 1 1/4" barbed polypropylene tee fitting, a 1/2" PVC threaded elbow fitting and a 1/2 in. barb x 1/2 in. MIP threaded fitting.

I modified all three ends of the polypropylene tee. I shortened the top end by removing all the barb rings, this is where the PVC elbow will be installed. I sanded all the barbs down on one side of the tee, this is the side where the OEM 1 1/4" fill hose will reconnect. I shortened the other side of the tee by removing a couple barb rings, this is the side where the flexible PVC coupling will connect.

I glued the elbow into the top tee connection (make sure you glue it pointing the right direction). I had to sand down the outside of one of the legs of the elbow so it would fit inside the top tee connection.

I then installed the assembled fresh water return connection as shown in the second picture.

The return line transition shown in the fifth picture is a barbed 1/2" PEX connection.

The sixth picture shows the return line in the bottom of the bathroom cabinet where it makes a 90 degree turn and then follows the other water lines to the pump area under the kitchen sink where the return line transition connection is located.

This is the water miser unit I used in the shower.

Let me know if you have additional questions or need additional pictures.

Thanks,
Fred

[JoshBap]

Hey thank you SO MUCH!!! All very helpful!

Josh