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Old 06-24-2022, 07:44 AM   #1
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Angry View 24V 2018 Coleman Rooftop not working

I made a bad assumption that when I had the dealer do a multipoint preseason checkup that the Rooftop unit would have been included, wrong. First time I tried it this year, warm air came out and I got the inside to cool to 95F. I believe the coolant leaked out. My dealer says I can get in in two months. I wonder if I should replace it and with maybe a bit larger one. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.
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Old 06-25-2022, 03:37 PM   #2
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Not a real common thing for refriderant to leak. As far as I know they are made in two sizes 13,500 and 15,000. Is it a heat pump or does it have a heat strip?
Maybe you can get a HVAC guy to look at it and not have to wait for dealer.
Also can look for a mobile rv tech in your area.
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Old 06-26-2022, 08:16 AM   #3
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The refrigerant in A/C units on RV roofs are a sealed system. So, when a tube gets a leak it’s standard policy to replace the whole unit. And, there have been shortages of replacements for the past year which can mean big delays in getting the replacement A/C installed.

A few folks have found an A/C repairman that will agree to braze in a new refrigerant tap and to fix the leak but that seems pretty hit or miss.

As to installing a bigger unit, it might be possible… if there are any available.
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Old 06-27-2022, 03:34 AM   #4
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It is a heat pump and both of you had great advice. I did check on a replacement and they are on back order. May have a summer with no AC. Thanks again. Doug.
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Old 06-27-2022, 04:20 AM   #5
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Would you buy the same unit, Coleman Mach 10 Air Conditioner with Heat Pump, or is there a better unit out there?
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Old 06-27-2022, 05:55 AM   #6
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Would you buy the same unit, Coleman Mach 10 Air Conditioner with Heat Pump, or is there a better unit out there?
I would look for the A/C that makes less noise and the most BTU rating. Also availability would be important. No A/C is no go for me. Without actually knowing what is wrong and not jumping to conclusions about issue buying new
might not even be needed. Most A/C run for years without problems.
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Old 06-27-2022, 03:05 PM   #7
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Interesting coincidence:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f87/air-...es-585474.html
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Old 06-27-2022, 03:14 PM   #8
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I would look for the A/C that makes less noise and the most BTU rating. Also availability would be important. No A/C is no go for me. Without actually knowing what is wrong and not jumping to conclusions about issue buying new
might not even be needed. Most A/C run for years without problems.
Ah, but there is a "gotcha" there to be aware of. The A/C on your roof works with the Thermostat on your wall. And, not all brands of A/C units use the same wiring. In fact, most don't. This makes it difficult to change brands.

So, of the newer brands have figured this out and offer kits or mods to make their A/C unit work with other brand's wiring. But not all brands offer these kits.

So, keep this in mind if you find a newer, quieter, better and IN STOCK brand of A/C for your RV.
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Old 06-29-2022, 10:32 PM   #9
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The Coleman heat pump AC on our 2020 Navion went out this week. It is on the same thermostat with the furnace. Furnace starts and runs fine. The AC doesn't do anything--no cooling, no fan without the cooling on, no heat pump, not a sound. Checked the circuit breakers and none had been switched off.

Of course we were in southern MO, KY, TN, MS, and AL before it stopped working. And, due to the heat wave, we were running it 24 hours a day when we were camped in those states. So maybe we just overworked it! Or maybe we just got a bad unit?
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:12 AM   #10
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Try a small self evaporative unit if you can spare a circuit and find a way to vent it.
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Old 06-30-2022, 05:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougherzog View Post
I made a bad assumption that when I had the dealer do a multipoint preseason checkup that the Rooftop unit would have been included, wrong. First time I tried it this year, warm air came out and I got the inside to cool to 95F. I believe the coolant leaked out. My dealer says I can get in in two months. I wonder if I should replace it and with maybe a bit larger one. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.
First, is your compressor running? Have you tried a new start capacitor if it isn't?
I had a unit loose Freon. I saw where the leak was. I had a cracked pipe leading into the coil. It took some talking but I got a HVAC shop to come to the coach and fix the leak and recharge the unit. I don't recall what he charged but I do remember it was very reasonable. The big concern from the A/C folks was the safety of the roof. Once I convinced them it was safe to walk on they agreed to do the repair. I hope you can get yours fixed too. Happy trails.
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Old 06-30-2022, 06:14 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougherzog View Post
I made a bad assumption that when I had the dealer do a multipoint preseason checkup that the Rooftop unit would have been included, wrong. First time I tried it this year, warm air came out and I got the inside to cool to 95F. I believe the coolant leaked out. My dealer says I can get in in two months. I wonder if I should replace it and with maybe a bit larger one. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks.
I wouldn't be so hasty to assume the refrigerant is low/gone. Some roof side inspection can tattle on basic problems.
My suggestion is to remove all 120 volt power from the coach. Climb up on the roof with some basic tools. Remove the plastic cover from the Coleman unit. Inspect the refrigerant lines around the compressor and the condensor coil. Typically if there was a refrigerant leak, it would show sign of a small trace of oil which travels with the refrigerant.
If no signs there, then open the evaporator compartment and perform the same inspection.
If there is no evidence of a leak, I would inspect the electrical connections in the control box and at the compressor. I have seen a poor crimp on the compressor wire at the capacitor. The factory crimped onto the insulation resulting in a very poor connection. The bouncing around of road travel aggravated the termination on the capacitor. I cut off the crimp connector and installed a new one - back in business.


I just read on another forum earlier this week that an owner had no air and upon investigation they found mud dauber built a nest in the control box right at the compressor relay preventing the relay from moving.

If there is evidence of a leak, depending on the location it is possible it can be repaired and the system recharged with refrigerant.

Just do a little P.I. and you might have a solution that doesn't require a A/C replacement.

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Old 06-30-2022, 07:14 AM   #13
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we were running it 24 hours a day when we were camped in those states. So maybe we just overworked it! Or maybe we just got a bad unit?
They donít generally break from constant use. The thing to do is to get a RV tech or shop to check it out and see if itís a problem thatís relatively easy to fix problem like run/start capacitors or non-repairable compressor failure.

Weíve had two Coleman-Mach 8 A/C units go out and both have been around the two year mark.

Be aware there is a two year warranty on most rooftop A/C brands installed by Winnebago. So yours may be under warranty still. So get it checked out ASAP if your RV was first purchased less than 2-years ago.
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Old 06-30-2022, 11:26 AM   #14
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I would not assume anything in particular about your unit. There are many reasons why it might not be cooling and freon loss is probably the last one I would think. Any decent HVAC technician can check the unit out. It's the same as any other AC system.
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Old 06-30-2022, 01:59 PM   #15
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Don’t forget the thermostat. When my rooftop Coleman quit working recently, I tried a few things to diagnose the symptoms. The troubleshooting guides I used, said it could be the thermostat. I like to try the easier & cheaper things first, so I spent $200 on a new thermostat & the AC now works fine.
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Old 07-01-2022, 01:54 PM   #16
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I called Winnebago direct and they told me they now use GE 13.5 kBTU model ARC13AAC units, they do not use Coleman 15 kBTU model 45054-8792 units anymore for Views newer than mine (2018). And a new thermostat is needed for the GE unit. PS. I did check my unit and the fan, only works fine, and the electric cool compressor also works, but no cooling air. Plenty air comes out so I don't think filter cleaning is the issue. Seems like there just isn't and liquid in the tubes, but I don't see anything like cracks.
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Old 07-01-2022, 02:23 PM   #17
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What does "electric cool compressor" mean? Are you referring to the compressor?

The fan running doesn't mean anything other than the unit is truing to run and the fan motor and starting capacitor is good.

How can you tell the compressor is running?
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Old 07-02-2022, 05:20 AM   #18
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What does "electric cool compressor" mean? Are you referring to the compressor?

The fan running doesn't mean anything other than the unit is truing to run and the fan motor and starting capacitor is good.

How can you tell the compressor is running?
Electric "Cool" is the setting on the thermostat unit. I did measure the compressor current at 4.0 amps with a Running Load Amp rating of 11.6 amps. I did find an HVAC guy that is willing to try to check the fluid and maybe fine a leak. It is a sealed unit but he can braze the copper tube. I will keep you posted. Again, thanks for comments. I need them.
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Old 07-02-2022, 07:54 AM   #19
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Low amps definitely means a refrigerant leak. I have the same issue and I have been waiting for a warranty replacement. 22J

I found a cheap used one on eBay while waiting for replacement.
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Old 07-02-2022, 11:55 AM   #20
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Ok, understand. Low amps does indicate a freon loss, since there is low pressure to pump.
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