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Old 11-09-2020, 07:23 AM   #1
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2017 Navion Purchase

Hi All

Going from a Class A to purchasing a Navion 17 V. Wanted to see if there is anything specific to look for when inspecting a used unit especially the 2017V.

Any specific known issues?

Thanks so much
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Old 11-09-2020, 07:51 AM   #2
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- Water damage is the big one (to me). Inspect exterior roof sealants for cracks and/or missing, and check the ceilings and walls inside for signs of intrusion.
- Underside for excess or severe corrosion.
- Slide function, deploy/retract.
- Awning deploy/retract.
- Battery condition, chassis and coach, if all original.
- Tire wear, brake wear, fluid levels.
- Engine starts, runs smoothly at idle, accelerates smoothly on freeway, transmission shifts well, under normal and load scenarios.
- Try as many coach systems as possible, or have the vendor demonstrate them. Ask questions if there's something not clear or confusing.
- Service records?
- Same stuff you'd look at when buying any new vehicle, basically.
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:06 AM   #3
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Thanks so much...You have a similar unit. I will do all you suggest. Glad to hear there are no specific issues to the model that stand out. I have never had a lp fridge before..you are pleased with that as well? Have you done any mods? I was thinking of putting an ATS in and possibly some new batts with additional solar. I don't believe there is the roof access port that the new ones have. Have you drilled through roof for any additional wiring ie. antenna etc?
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:32 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Thanks so much...You have a similar unit. I will do all you suggest. Glad to hear there are no specific issues to the model that stand out. I have never had a lp fridge before..you are pleased with that as well? Have you done any mods? I was thinking of putting an ATS in and possibly some new batts with additional solar. I don't believe there is the roof access port that the new ones have. Have you drilled through roof for any additional wiring ie. antenna etc?
- My fridge is the DC only Norcold DC0061. No propane, which can be good or bad.
- I upgraded coach batteries to a pair of Relion RB100-LT lithiums, as I need some low temp capability on occasion.
- I added the Progressive Industries Charge Wizard Pendant to my factory PD9245 converter/charger to allow me to boost my rate of charge manually.
- I added a 3rd 100W panel - I think you should have a similar 3 port combiner up top, too. Have a look.
- I recently added the 12V to 5V DC to DC step down converter mod to my propane solenoid switch to reduce power consumption when using propane for other things. You might want to search for some videos on "how to" do it.
- I added a wireless home alarm system to cover the doors and windows, when we're not nearby. It uses GSM technology to alert us of breaches by phone.
- Added a Scan Gauge II with MB Sprinter specific X-Gauges to assist in monitoring chassis performance in real time. If you buy one directy from Linear Logic, ask them to program the Sprinter chassis X-Gauges for you. You can DIY it, but it's tedious, until you get the hang of it. There are a lot of extra X-Gauges (of variable usefulness) available for our chassis type.
- The usual smattering of convenience mods, like a shoe organizer on the inside bathroom door for odds and ends.
- Outside, I inverted the engine and diesel generator exhaust pipes clamps to increase their ground clearance.
- No suspension mods. Yet. Am still pondering Sumo Springs front and rear to mitigate curb roll.

That's all I can think of at the mo. Others may suggest other mods. Or, do a search on the net. There are many out there.
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Old 11-09-2020, 08:36 AM   #5
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Excellent,,,I will take a look at these once I take possession. I wonder if the fridge size is the same and can be installed without mod,,,,as well as the battery compartment if that is the same size? Or did you have to enlarge the battery compartment?
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Old 11-09-2020, 09:52 AM   #6
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Excellent,,,I will take a look at these once I take possession. I wonder if the fridge size is the same and can be installed without mod,,,,as well as the battery compartment if that is the same size? Or did you have to enlarge the battery compartment?
The battery tray under my side entrance steps was designed for 2 X NAPA 8240 GR24 FLA batteries, so yes, I had to use an angle grinder and grind off the two side flanges that kept them from moving from side to side. Took about 10 minutes including painting the bare metal with some rust inhibiting paint. I also added some underpads from Walmart. Those interlocking rubberized floor mats with the jigsaw puzzle edges. I cut a piece from one of them and placed it in the bottom of the tray before shoehorning in the GR31 Relions. It wasn't easy, but it's doable. It all fits, subject to some passing mild profanities.
My fridge is a 7cuft DC only vampire. The current draw when running can hit 6.5A. That's the bad part of no propane/absorption option, as I've had 3-way frodges before and they sip propane to stay cold. The good part is it doesn't need to be level to operate.
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Old 11-15-2020, 02:18 PM   #7
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The 2015-2018 Sprinter chassis version was used on 2016 to 2019 model year RV's from Winnebago. For specifics on the chassis look for the 2016 for the 2917 RV.


A 2017 Winnebago was manufactured in 2016 and so the house batteries are at least 4 years old as are the tires. Expected life of batteries and tires is 5 years and I would factor this into the purchase price.
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Old 11-15-2020, 03:25 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info. Here are two pics, one of wiring coming from awning. It has been chafed. Any insight on how this wire should be run!

The second pic is at the bottom of the entry door for the step switch...doesn’t look so good to me either.
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Old 11-16-2020, 07:46 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Hi All

Going from a Class A to purchasing a Navion 17 V. Wanted to see if there is anything specific to look for when inspecting a used unit especially the 2017V.

Any specific known issues?

Thanks so much
We just bought a low mileage 2016 Navion 24J. I'm guessing it is similar in lots of respects. No suspension mods yet. I like the way it drives.

I found these wiring diagrams useful for some questions.
Wiring Diagrams

Am in the process of adding the propane relay low voltage mod and also the Trik-L-Charge mod to fix two of the areas where the electrics need improvement.

All of our batteries needed replacement. They worked when I checked them at the dealer, but would not hold a charge. Apparently 4 year life is typical for inexpensive low end flooded cell OEM batts. If you replace the house batteries, be sure the new ones will fit. My battery box is simply too small to use anything larger than a pair of standard Group 24s it came with - and they are a shoe-horn fit. 1/4" larger in width or length is too large. Battery box mods are on the list before next battery upgrade. Sure wish the DPO had ordered the solar option. Not sure what to do about that. Don't want to drill the roof!

Note: one of the first symptoms of poor batteries is that the backup camera becomes irratic unless the batteries are freshly charged. The camera is sensitive to low voltage.

On this as well as other RVs we use the 3-way fridge. Cools well on propane; less well on 12 or 120 volt. I've seen a lot written recently about the importance of leveling, but haven't ever had a problem.

The sprinter hood support is oddly fragile. It only took one ham-fisted mechanic a few seconds to bend ours.

Check your wheels to see if they are they type with chrome wheel covers that can shift enough to abrade the valve stems. If so, there are many articles on easy fix. We got lucky there and have the alloy wheels.

Good luck,
Scotty
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Old 11-16-2020, 03:34 PM   #10
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With my last RV the propane fridge would shut off if it was not level from left to right facing the fridge. So I carried blocks of wood so I would raise the wheels to get within a couple of degrees of level.

Most of the lithium batteries that are 100 AH are the dimensions of a Group 27 AGM battery. Check the ones like Battle Born 100AH for their dimensions.

For solar there are VHB (very high bond) feet for the panels that work very well in sticking to a fiberglass coach roof. Then all you need is to attach a junction gland and make a single 1/2" diameter hole below it that goes into the cabinet where the charge controller is going to be installed. The most difficult part by far is running the heavier gauge cables from the charge controller to the battery compartment.

Even a portable 200W solar kit will be enough to recharge the batteries while parked at a spot.
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Old 11-16-2020, 10:05 PM   #11
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I haven't experienced the propane fridge shutting off. But this new one on our Navion is much newer and we haven't used it much. Is that a new feature? I do normally level the RV when we park.

Has anyone put a WeatherTech front floorliner in their Navion? What part number and how did it fit?
Scotty
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Old 11-18-2020, 10:03 PM   #12
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There is a roof penetration behind the front television for any new cable runs. Installed front and rear Sumo springs from etrailer.com and highly recommend that modificaton. Also bought Weathertech floormats from etrailer.com. Fit perfectly except center piece is long but can be tucked up. Also bought a 4 mm protective film to protect headlight modules. First buys: Surge protector and TPMS.
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Old 11-18-2020, 11:44 PM   #13
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We bought a 2017 View 24V too...

We bought our 2017 View 24V last October. (2016 MB chassis) Just in time to have knee surgery and then Covid hit. Have had a lot of time to think about upgrades.

Concerning the solar. It came with one 100A solar cell. There is a roof connector for two more solar panels. I haven't upgraded yet, but it would be easy if I wanted too.

Things that I have done so far:

Installed Trik-l-Start to keep the engine battery charged when I store the unit while plugged into shore power. If you don't add this, your engine battery will run down in a couple of weeks. You can unplug the power cable next to the accelerator pedal, but I got tired of doing that.

I replaced the house batteries with two Lifeline GPL-4CT batteries. They fit perfectly with no battery box mods. The hold down bracket does not reach. Some people find a way to extend it, but I thought that it crowded the side of the battery. I ended up using a ratchet strap to hold both batteries down.

I added "Borg dually valve" extended valve stems to the inner rear dually wheels. This allows you to easily check and air up the inner dually tires. The tire shop needs to know how to install these. The first time mine tried it, I had a slow leak. It's been fine since then. I have used these on two other RVs.

I also had the Riverpark radio die. River park replaced it for free, if I paid shipping. It worked for 6 months and just died one day. It was a pain to get it out of the dash, but it finally came out. Works great now.

The twin beds have tilt up feature for the head end of the bed. The previous owner damaged the bracket and I had to replace the mounting screws.

One problem the RV had when I bought it was on the cosmetic piece of plastic that joins the rear roof to the back vertical wall of the RV. This piece of plastic is about 1 ft tall and 5 feet wide. It has 6 or 7 mounting screws that screw in from the top. The screws must have been overtightened during the manufacturing process. There were several large cracks in the plastic. I did not notice the cracks until I got the RV home. The cracks are not a leak issue, they just look bad. I ended up buying a painted replacement part for $800 and had a local RV repair tech replace it for another $250.

I added Weathertech floormats up front.

Added SnapPads to the leveling jack feet. (Previous owner installed a BigFoot leveling system)

Added Covercraft seat covers to front seats.

Looking forward to getting a vaccine shot so that we can start travelling again.

Regards,

Jerry
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Old 11-19-2020, 08:09 AM   #14
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The Weathertech floormats came and they fit OK...not perfect, but good. I'm figuring as they relax and temperature cycle a few times they will lay down to fit better.

At first I thought the center Weathertech piece didn't fit at all - it seemed a few inches too long. But all it needed was for the after edge to be bent up to fit the back of of the walk-thru area. Then it fits fine and the slot for the parking brake is correct too.

Next thing to install is the Trik-L-charge. Had to return the Lifeline GPL-4CT batteries. Hated to do that, but fitting the required too many modifications required to the battery box, hold downs, and extensions on the cables. I may look at them again when warm weather allows for a more time consuming project.
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Old 11-19-2020, 08:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Hi All

Going from a Class A to purchasing a Navion 17 V. Wanted to see if there is anything specific to look for when inspecting a used unit especially the 2017V.

Any specific known issues?

Thanks so much
Welcome to the Winnie forum and hopefully congrats on your pending ownership of the Navion 24V.
To add what to look for:
-of course, on top of the roof is very important. Check not only the roof but all the other covers as well. For example, my bath exhaust fan cover developed a crack, small, but never-the-less a crack right at the back where the cover slopes down to the roof. Water could gather at that point and enter. For the time being I stuck a piece of FlexSeal tape over the crack until I decide which fan I want to upgrade to. If you have the large opening skylight, check it too. Obviously check the sealant joints at all the roof penetrations.
My rubber roof antennas recently broke (sun decay). I found these work as an excellent replacement. Just unscrew the rubber whip and pop on the new whip.
* I have yet to write-up my issues with my flex solar panels (Sunpower), but in brief; I had one of my 100-watt solar panels fail. I wanted a 1 for 1 replacement so I ordered a replacement from Zamp authroized reseller. When I removed the faulty Sunpower panel, I was shocked to discover numerous cracks in the fiberglass roof directly under the solar panel. These solar panels are adhered not only with the fasteners around the perimeter but also with a bonding caulk on the underside field of the panel. Point is, no one can really check their roof under these panels without releasing the panel from this bond. The process of releasing the adhesive is a fragile job in itself because you can damage the solar panel. I have photos of all the findings and plan to post this information in a separate post later. I mention it for you to scan the area of the roof and solar panels.

-once off the roof, I would crawl under and inspect the chassis. Many of these units are moved from the factory in the winter time which sprays the underside of the chassis with road salt. From my propane tank on back I had corrsosion setting in. I was able to "treat" most of the areas before it start rust scaling. My generator base plate was the worst and required some wire brushing before treatment. Also check that your spare tire is under there. Tire change tools should be in the passenger side floorboard.

You didn't mention the generator fuel type you have; diesel or LP. Either one, you want to make certain that it not only starts but can carry the load as well. Test using the air conditioner.

That for the most part are the concerning items to check. I have more tips on tweaks I made to our 24V that I will place in a separate post.

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Old 11-19-2020, 09:30 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Thanks for the info. Here are two pics, one of wiring coming from awning. It has been chafed. Any insight on how this wire should be run!

The second pic is at the bottom of the entry door for the step switch...doesn’t look so good to me either.
The wire for the awning is running behind the vertical wall support. Not easy to get to.
For my whip from the awning support to the support arm, I took a small flexible tube (irrigation tubing) and cut about 14 inch length of the tube, then sliced it the entire 14 inch length. I snapped it over the whip. I did wrap the wire whip with a layer of electrical tape prior to applying the tube. It seems to help better protect the whip. Sooner or later I may have to get to the wire that runs behind the vertical support. It is only a matter of time before that wire breaks from frequent bending.

On the door switch, that's easy. Just un-land the wires and crimp on an insulated fork or ring terminal.
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Old 11-19-2020, 09:41 AM   #17
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Has anyone put a WeatherTech front floorliner in their Navion? What part number and how did it fit?
Scotty
As others have stated, I purchased the WeatherTech front floor mat and the rear liner that I cut to fit. WIth Zoro promotion discounts, they had the best price going.

Note - I found that the WeatherTech mats have a tendency to slide on the OEM liner, my solution was to use the 3M removable adhesive strips.

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Old 11-19-2020, 09:57 AM   #18
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I was thinking of putting an ATS in.
This was one of the first upgrades I did. I went with the Progressive Dynamics PD5110010V 5100 Series.
I removed the 120 volt 30 amp plug and junction box and installed the Progressive Dynamics switch in that location. It was a bit snug working with the wiring, however, the tough plastic enclosure of the ATS is a bit better and safer to work with than the metal enclosures.
Since this location is the feed from both the shore cord and the generator, I installed my hardwire Progressive Industries EMS under the passenger side bed, right behind the load center; hence, my View electrical systems are protected from either power source.

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Old 11-19-2020, 11:00 AM   #19
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Thanks for many replies!

Great suggestions. I will be taking delivery next week.

Rubber antennas were broken and being replaced.
Diesel generator with 74 hours on it. Clean as a whistle and runs under load
No rust whatsoever on clamps, exhausts, propane tank,,,hard to believe.
Triklstart will be one of the first improvements.

Couple of thoughts and questions.

I am sure to have to replace the original batteries. Have see posts and videos of people grinding out the ears of the box and putting bigger batteries in. I would be fine to do that. What does it really gain me? With only a very few outlets on inverter...as long as it holds charge and is able to run minimal 12 volt fridge with propane, what else do I ask of them?

That leads me to another question. Has anyone with this vintage, replaced the inverter with larger and rerouted so that most all is on inverter? Then it would make more sense to have more solar and bigger and better batteries?

Another question- We plan on staying in kids driveways quite often. Sewer will be further away and I was planning on getting a portable macerator pump to send it all uphil,,,so to speak. These use alligator clamps to connect to battery posts. I was thinking of running wire to remote posts installed in the dump station area. What you think?

Anyone post the weathertech order # that fits well?

Thanks again. Look forward to sharing more pics once I get started.
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Old 11-19-2020, 11:57 AM   #20
bkg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyinWP View Post
Thanks for many replies!

Great suggestions. I will be taking delivery next week.

Rubber antennas were broken and being replaced.
Diesel generator with 74 hours on it. Clean as a whistle and runs under load
No rust whatsoever on clamps, exhausts, propane tank,,,hard to believe.
Triklstart will be one of the first improvements.

Couple of thoughts and questions.

I am sure to have to replace the original batteries. Have see posts and videos of people grinding out the ears of the box and putting bigger batteries in. I would be fine to do that. What does it really gain me? With only a very few outlets on inverter...as long as it holds charge and is able to run minimal 12 volt fridge with propane, what else do I ask of them?

That leads me to another question. Has anyone with this vintage, replaced the inverter with larger and rerouted so that most all is on inverter? Then it would make more sense to have more solar and bigger and better batteries?

Another question- We plan on staying in kids driveways quite often. Sewer will be further away and I was planning on getting a portable macerator pump to send it all uphil,,,so to speak. These use alligator clamps to connect to battery posts. I was thinking of running wire to remote posts installed in the dump station area. What you think?

Anyone post the weathertech order # that fits well?

Thanks again. Look forward to sharing more pics once I get started.

I posted the WeatherTech info. above but the actual number for grey is 462491.

On the diesel generator, check to see if the first maintenance service was done (25-hour service schedule, I believe).

On all questions regarding the battery - this is really dependent on your use. Based on your questions I assume you plan to use the Navion off-the-grid.
If this is not the case, then you need to evaluate how much will you be off-the-grid, and how much 120 volt will you need when not on shore power or on generator. As you stated, this forum is loaded with information from owners and various upgrade methods for coach batteries.
For me personally, I don't do that much boondocking or off-the-grid camping, however, there are those occasions. I recently completed a trip with 2 stops of 4 days each boondocking. Prior to this trip I changed my NAPA 12 volt coach batteries to 2) 6 volt GC batteries. I also installed the Victron BMV 712 to meter my battery use.
Most of my use in the coach is 12 volt, however, on that trip, we did need the occasional 120 volt - coffee maker, and some TV, but never ran my batteries down below 92% SOC. I was able to supplement my power needs for recharge and use of the microwave with some generator run time, but not much.
The point I am trying to make, don't go full throttle battery, solar, inverter upgrade if your type of use doesn't require it. For me, tt doesn't make sense to upgrade my 12 volt system to lithium. Would I like it, yeah, but I wouldn't reach much benefit from the expense. I did perfectly fine with the 6 volt change and the Victron BMV. My total cost for that was less than $500.00.

On your sewer inquiry, how far is this "uphill"? The macerator will move the effluent from the coach but it won't empty that uphill hose run. If it is 50 feet, that is 50 feet of effluent still in the discharge if the macerator is at the coach. If you move the macerator further away you still will have to deal with a decent amount of flushing just to get "sanitary" enough to disconnect your hose.
Your gray tank will fill the fastest and on the 24V, the gray water is drained via an on-board macerator pump. There is a combination fitting in the discharge of the 24V macerator. Mine has what would be called a clean-out plug. In concept, I could remove this plug and adapt with a separate ball valve for a gray water hose connection and thereby use the on-board macerator to pump-out my gray water using a 1/2 inch gray water hose.
Kinda hard to explain in narrative but if this is something you are interested in I can submit photos of the 24V macerator line for better illustration.

Bobby
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