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Old 11-25-2022, 06:42 PM   #1
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Winnebago Rusted Windshield

I have this problem on my 2008 ellipse. I’ve been an automotive engineer for thirty eight years and I know how important the window sill bond to glass. Why would the government dem it any less a safety issue to the motorhome industry?
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Old 11-26-2022, 10:18 PM   #2
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What is the design that the automotive industry uses where they don't have a rust problem? Zinc plating, stainless steel?

I've had my Winnie for 19 yrs with the original windshield. About 3 yrs ago a 1.5 ft crack shot up about about 3" from the bottom middle corner. Since it was right in-line with the windshield wiper and not in my vision I didn't have it replaced. I was told rust probably made it crack.

Then this summer a golf ball size rock from a gravel truck right in the middle of my line of vision triggered a new windshield . When the glass was removed the only rust in the entire frame was about 1.5 inches of rust under the crack.
The installer told me that what reduced the rust on my coach is the 3M molding I installed across the entire windshield just above the rubber seal. The 3M molding catches the drips from the dew and routes it around and to the back of the windshield. I added it to keep the glass a little cleaner looking and not show the drips. But now I realize it helps a lot to reduce the rust problem too.

Here's what I found on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Diver...33&sr=8-3&th=1
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Old 11-27-2022, 03:54 PM   #3
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Would love to see how that molding is installed, I have an 07 Journey and while I have not noticed any issues, they may wall be hidden.
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Old 11-27-2022, 05:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
Would love to see how that molding is installed, I have an 07 Journey and while I have not noticed any issues, they may wall be hidden.
It simply goes right above the rubber trim.
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Old 11-28-2022, 10:11 AM   #5
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Thanks for the picture and the suggestion, I have out that on my list of things to purchase.
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Old 11-28-2022, 11:23 AM   #6
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The key function of the moulding is to prevent water from getting underneath the rubber trim, which is just that, it's not a seal.

My 2002 isn't painted and is white so I achieved the same result with a strip of Eternabond tape that extends down, over the top edge of the trim. It's also available in black.
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Old 11-30-2022, 05:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reb1193 View Post
Why would the government dem it any less a safety issue to the motorhome industry?
Totally different safety standards ... Few other mfgers have a metal frame up front like a car and a Winnebago does, and windshields are not a part of the structural integrity as in cars and in a Winnebago. Most simply have a hole in the fiberglass, and the windshield is held in place by the rubber seal. That is why some brands have a problem w\windshields literally "popping out" of the frame.
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Old 12-01-2022, 11:26 AM   #8
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One more thing you need to remember and it has already been stated above by BobC the rubber above the windshield is not a seal. which means it is not a seal on the top and bottom. When you are driving down the road a 60 plus in the rain water is forced up under that rubber.
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Old 12-01-2022, 07:19 PM   #9
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I ran a finger bread of sealant all around the outside of the rubber shortly after my first repair shortly after expiration of the warranty. For the record, the reason for the damage I experienced was a leaking clearance lamp, allowing rain water to run down the inside of the roof cap onto the top of the metal frame. When I saw the rubber did not really seal the cavity, I sealed it from the outside.
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Old 12-02-2022, 11:01 AM   #10
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A cautionary tale:

My 2002 Suncruiser, which I bought in 2017 had the major $2k windshield frame replacement done several years before my purchase. After the first big rain, I noticed some drips inside my windshield and used Eternabond to seal the outside top edge of the rubber insert -- no more drips.

Fast-forward to 2019 ('20?): I experienced a broken passenger side windshield (mine is a split windshield). When the guys were replacing it, they showed me that both windshields were loose in the frames and could easily be pushed in and out around a large part of the perimeter. It was so bad that it's amazing they hadn't fallen out at some point. They noticed that whoever did the major repair didn't properly rust-proof the frame. That, and the rusting caused by the leak I discovered, caused a failure of the adhesive/sealant. Since the sealant had failed so extensively, they were able to remove the undamaged driver side windshield without damage.

Fortunately, the frame itself was OK except for some surface rust. They cleaned and rust-proofed the frame and installed both windshields, making sure that both were well-sealed. Total additional cost was $500 which I thought was very reasonable, especially since my comprehensive insurance has a $0 deductible. (The no-deductible policy came in handy again when I had a catalytic converter stolen a couple of months ago.) Had the driver's side windshield been damaged, it would have been another $500 or so, which I was willing to pay.

So far, no problems but I think I'll re-apply the Eternabond tape to make sure that future leaks are prevented. With all the flexing the frame goes through, you can't depend on the sealant.
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Old 12-08-2022, 08:34 AM   #11
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Added that rubber gutter above my split windshield in a '02 Journey DL about 6 years ago. The dripping on the dash though came from the running lights above. Added clear silicone for that.

Had a crack and when they pulled out the windows, didn't look half bad. Treated the rust and so far so good.
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Old 12-08-2022, 08:53 PM   #12
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How to apply the rubber?
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Old 12-09-2022, 06:07 AM   #13
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In my case, pulled a picnic table up under the windows to stand on then I cleaned above the windows with soapy water, rinsed, then with a clean rag, scrubbed it with alcohol.

Let dry, then applied the gutter one short section at a time as I pulled the tape cover, rollering as I went.
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Old 12-12-2022, 05:12 PM   #14
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I did a strip of 2" wide black gorilla tape 1/2 on the cap and 1/2 down the rubber trim. Its been in place 3 years, so far, so good, still holding strong. No more drips. You don't notice it from the ground.

This was after I had a leak and found it was the sealant between the cap and frame above the windshield was insufficient, cleaned, rust proofed, painted, re-sealed with polyurethane sealant and still had an issue. Tape across the top seems to be the best way to go. 2012 Journey 36m
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Old 12-12-2022, 06:28 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by erstanfo View Post
I did a strip of 2" wide black gorilla tape 1/2 on the cap and 1/2 down the rubber trim. Its been in place 3 years, so far, so good, still holding strong. No more drips. You don't notice it from the ground.

This was after I had a leak and found it was the sealant between the cap and frame above the windshield was insufficient, cleaned, rust proofed, painted, re-sealed with polyurethane sealant and still had an issue. Tape across the top seems to be the best way to go. 2012 Journey 36m
That's exactly what I did back in 1977 and it stopped the leaks. Unfortunately the damage that lead to having to remove the windshields had already been done. (see post #10).
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Old 12-13-2022, 11:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reb1193 View Post
I have this problem on my 2008 ellipse. I’ve been an automotive engineer for thirty eight years and I know how important the window sill bond to glass. Why would the government dem it any less a safety issue to the motorhome industry?

Winnebago class A windshields are/were bedded in, exactly like auto windshields. I don't know of any other MH mfgr. who does that.
Yes, due to the cab design (about 3x as large as auto and vans) and the fact most sit outside all the time, the seals dry out and leak.
This means it is very important owners regularly inspect for seal integrity and leakage.
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Old 12-14-2022, 12:38 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
Winnebago class A windshields are/were bedded in, exactly like auto windshields. I don't know of any other MH mfgr. who does that.
Yes, due to the cab design (about 3x as large as auto and vans) and the fact most sit outside all the time, the seals dry out and leak.
This means it is very important owners regularly inspect for seal integrity and leakage.
If it's such a good system, why do they have this problem that other motorhomes don't seem to have, at least to the same degree? The same goes for the fiberglass
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Old 12-23-2022, 10:16 AM   #18
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I didn't see the comment that it was better than anyone else, just different.
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Old 12-24-2022, 08:01 AM   #19
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That's exactly what I did back in 1977 and it stopped the leaks. Unfortunately the damage that lead to having to remove the windshields had already been done. (see post #10).
What was I thinking, 2017, not 1977. My 2002 and I aren't time travelers. Or are we??
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