Last week I got locked inside my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD. I had just filled up with diesel and after stepping inside and closing the door behind me... I could not get out again! ...The handle would not lift up far enough to unlock the door. And I assumed the Trimark 030-900 lock broke inside. ...Whatever the problem the handle was jammed!
However, with full fuel and plenty of water, I continued my trip, spent the night in my RV, and called Trimark in the next business day.
My point is that this lockout or lock-in problem can happen any time or anywhere, so I think we all need to take some precautions. For example:
* I was lucky, because I got locked INSIDE my coach vs. outside. This allowed me to use the set of "star bits" I keep inside my RV.
...And all I had to do was: Slide the screen door cover back, and then loosen the 3 star-bit-screws that bolt the inside Trimark cover plate to the outside Trimark cover plate.
...Then I was able to pull-up on the door handle to unlock the door. (Crisis over! ...Which was very good news to me, because I'm too old to scamper out the window!)
* Another good idea is to store your battery powered screw driver, with drill bits, inside your RV, because you may need it if loosening the star bolts does not work. But drilling out the lock either from the inside would be second choice, because you could just plug the hole after you are done and maybe you will not have to destroy the lock. Unlike drilling the lock from the outside.
I also contacted the folks at Trimark and they sent me their "lock drill out instructions" which I will share with you. (See attached.) Of course, I hope you don't need to use a drill to open your lock; and when faced with a lockout situation, I would suggest if you get someone to climb inside your RV window (if possible) to see if loosening those 3 inside star-screws will work to unlock your door?
HOW DOES THE TRIMARK 30-900 LOCK WORK?
* First you need to examine each half of the Trimark lock.
* You need to visualize how each half of the lock works with the other half when screwed together.
* And you need to know the door opens when the rod on the inside plate (half) pulls on the spring loaded latch you cannot see inside your door.
Consequently, you cannot separate the Trimark lock halves until you unscrew the 7/16" adjustment bolt, which is only accessible when the door is open!!!
* The outside Trimark plate has the key cam locks, and these can only be removed by a Trimark dealer or RV Shop that has the Trimark Master Key.
* The outside Trimark plate has a Pivot-Cam-Plate that rotates when you pull up on either the inside handle or outside paddle. And if look closely on this half of the Trimark Lock, the outside half, you will see a tiny tab on the cam-plate, which sometimes gets bent up. ...And when this happens your outside door paddle with just flap without engaging.
==> So part of your Trimark PM is to bend this tap back down so it comes in contact with the inside half of the Trimark plate assembly. (No big deal. Just uses some pliers.
* So the mechanics of the Trimark lock are based on a rotating pivot-cam-plate, that pulls on the door lock springs... to open the door.
You can test this out when your door is open. And at door strike-level you will see a thin, back cover plate that hides the 7/16" adjustment screw inside the door.
This is your Trimark adjustment nut and I will give you door adjustment instructions in another post. For now, just use a 1/4"drive, deep 7/16" socket, and pace it inside the door hole... lock the door latch... then release the spring-lock by pushing in on the socket! The latch will open, which simulates how the door is unlocked when you pull-up on the door handle or outside paddle, which PULLS on the door rod... which opens the door.
Summary: From the inside of the coach, if your lock is jammed like mine was, and you find the handle travel is too short to open the door, you just need to loosen those 3 star-screws on the inside Trimark plate, which will take the pressure off the cam-plate, and then you should be able to open the door.
WHAT CAUSED THE LOCK TO JAMM?
In my case, I have a keyless entry system, and the door actuator (plunger) broke off it's mount.
...But what caused the door actuator to break? It might be age, but I think it was probably a warn Trimark outer plate assembly, because I found that pivoting-cam-plate to be very loose.
==> Solution: I contacted Trimark and based on my Trimark 30-900 series lock, with a stamped Code #21396-44E I found on the inside plate rivet, I will order a new exterior handle (Part #36283-01) direct from Trimark for $125.72, plus shipping.
They tell me this lock assembly will come with two keys per key cylinder, and the gasket that needs to go on the back of this handle before it is installed, and the three self-tapping screws to install it.
Note: The part number for a new interior handle is #21396-02; and the cost of this item is $72.58, plus shipping.
Where can you get a door actuator if you have an Keyless Entry System? ...Right here on Amazon (2 for just $9):
Root Cause Summary:
I think the wobbly cam-plate on the outside half of the Trimark lock "side-loaded" the door actuator and that caused the plastic mounts on the door actuator to crack... and then the fallen door actuator, with it's 5" rod jammed the Trimark pivot-cam-plate, which prevented me from opening the door.