Locked Inside (Or Out) Of Your RV? * Trimark 30-900 Lock * How Do These Things Work?
Last week I got locked inside my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD. I had just filled up with diesel and after stepping inside and closing the door behind me... I could not get out again! ...The handle would not lift up far enough to unlock the door. And I assumed the Trimark 030-900 lock broke inside. ...Whatever the problem the handle was jammed!
However, with full fuel and plenty of water, I continued my trip, spent the night in my RV, and called Trimark in the next business day.
My point is that this lockout or lock-in problem can happen any time or anywhere, so I think we all need to take some precautions. For example:
* I was lucky, because I got locked INSIDE my coach vs. outside. This allowed me to use the set of "star bits" I keep inside my RV.
...And all I had to do was: Slide the screen door cover back, and then loosen the 3 star-bit-screws that bolt the inside Trimark cover plate to the outside Trimark cover plate.
...Then I was able to pull-up on the door handle to unlock the door. (Crisis over! ...Which was very good news to me, because I'm too old to scamper out the window!)
* Another good idea is to store your battery powered screw driver, with drill bits, inside your RV, because you may need it if loosening the star bolts does not work. But drilling out the lock either from the inside would be second choice, because you could just plug the hole after you are done and maybe you will not have to destroy the lock. Unlike drilling the lock from the outside.
I also contacted the folks at Trimark and they sent me their "lock drill out instructions" which I will share with you. (See attached.) Of course, I hope you don't need to use a drill to open your lock; and when faced with a lockout situation, I would suggest if you get someone to climb inside your RV window (if possible) to see if loosening those 3 inside star-screws will work to unlock your door?
HOW DOES THE TRIMARK 30-900 LOCK WORK?
* First you need to examine each half of the Trimark lock.
* You need to visualize how each half of the lock works with the other half when screwed together.
* And you need to know the door opens when the rod on the inside plate (half) pulls on the spring loaded latch you cannot see inside your door.
Consequently, you cannot separate the Trimark lock halves until you unscrew the 7/16" adjustment bolt, which is only accessible when the door is open!!!
* The outside Trimark plate has the key cam locks, and these can only be removed by a Trimark dealer or RV Shop that has the Trimark Master Key.
* The outside Trimark plate has a Pivot-Cam-Plate that rotates when you pull up on either the inside handle or outside paddle. And if look closely on this half of the Trimark Lock, the outside half, you will see a tiny tab on the cam-plate, which sometimes gets bent up. ...And when this happens your outside door paddle with just flap without engaging.
==> So part of your Trimark PM is to bend this tap back down so it comes in contact with the inside half of the Trimark plate assembly. (No big deal. Just uses some pliers.
* So the mechanics of the Trimark lock are based on a rotating pivot-cam-plate, that pulls on the door lock springs... to open the door.
You can test this out when your door is open. And at door strike-level you will see a thin, back cover plate that hides the 7/16" adjustment screw inside the door.
This is your Trimark adjustment nut and I will give you door adjustment instructions in another post. For now, just use a 1/4"drive, deep 7/16" socket, and pace it inside the door hole... lock the door latch... then release the spring-lock by pushing in on the socket! The latch will open, which simulates how the door is unlocked when you pull-up on the door handle or outside paddle, which PULLS on the door rod... which opens the door.
Summary: From the inside of the coach, if your lock is jammed like mine was, and you find the handle travel is too short to open the door, you just need to loosen those 3 star-screws on the inside Trimark plate, which will take the pressure off the cam-plate, and then you should be able to open the door.
WHAT CAUSED THE LOCK TO JAMM?
In my case, I have a keyless entry system, and the door actuator (plunger) broke off it's mount.
...But what caused the door actuator to break? It might be age, but I think it was probably a warn Trimark outer plate assembly, because I found that pivoting-cam-plate to be very loose.
==> Solution: I contacted Trimark and based on my Trimark 30-900 series lock, with a stamped Code #21396-44E I found on the inside plate rivet, I will order a new exterior handle (Part #36283-01) direct from Trimark for $125.72, plus shipping.
They tell me this lock assembly will come with two keys per key cylinder, and the gasket that needs to go on the back of this handle before it is installed, and the three self-tapping screws to install it.
Note: The part number for a new interior handle is #21396-02; and the cost of this item is $72.58, plus shipping.
Where can you get a door actuator if you have an Keyless Entry System? ...Right here on Amazon (2 for just $9):
Root Cause Summary: I think the wobbly cam-plate on the outside half of the Trimark lock "side-loaded" the door actuator and that caused the plastic mounts on the door actuator to crack... and then the fallen door actuator, with it's 5" rod jammed the Trimark pivot-cam-plate, which prevented me from opening the door.
I thought I was the only one, thanks for the info. I was standing outside my rig with keys in hand with entry door open while i worked on something outside. I partially closed door it latched and would not let me open with paddle on outside. I had keys in hand, tried locking and unlocking no luck, i pushed door closed completely and that was it,,, no way in now. I went inside my sticks and bricks and googled and thought how do i get back into my rig? around 3am I got an idea, emergency exit window has hinges remove screws lift window out of frame enter unit, unlock all is good....well the 6 star screws on the emergency window are designed to go in and not to be removed every one of theme sheared off. I gained entry, opened the door from inside, disassembled lock repaired paddle. I then drilled new holes in hinge for Emergency window and installed new hardware with sealant. I don't know what I would have done if on the road and without tools. Everyone needs to have an emergency plan to gain entry or to exit your rig.
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Tony & Connie 03 Itasca Sunova 27'
Colorado Springs CO
I gave up on that part of the lock mechanism and disabled the red latch part. Use the deadbolt and associated key. Why in the world did they make that double lock mechanism anyways?
Rideordie: I really like that I was able to help you get your door open. However, I have several questions and I was not able to follow your tips on how you drilled new holes in hinge for Emergency window and installed new hardware with sealant. If possible, can you send a few pictures. I have never needed to break-in thru an emergency window, but thanks your post, I now know I can consider it.
QUESTIONS
* Why was your lock not working?
* When locked out... meaning you are on the outside of the coach... and when you try to open the lock:
A) Was the black handle flopping back-and-forth and not engaging? Or...
B) Was your black paddle not moving and was acting like it is locked by the cam-lock, but you know the cam-lock is not the problem?
To repeat what I said in previous posts, the "A-Solution" is to first ask your wife to try opening the door. ...Seriously, sometimes another persons touch will work; and when you get your door open you can follow the adjustment on the tab and the 7/16" nut.
Note: I also found that temperature is a factor when that black paddle is flapping. I.e., I found when I got locked out in the cold.... by the afternoon, when temperatures moved from 40-60F... the "tab" inside the door paddle made contact with the unlocking mechanism and I was able to open the door.
==> Anyway, anytime you have a flopping black paddle this usually means you need to get your door open... disassemble the lock halves... and then bend that tinny "tab" down just a bit.... and then...
===> you adjust your "spring-lock plunger" by removing the door edge peek-hole-cover, and then follow the adjustment procedure on how many turns you put on the 7/16" nut.
In fact, everyone need to do this adjustment every 5-7 years as a preventative maintenance step so you don't get locked out.
Note: If adjustment of the outer-black-paddle is the problem, I think you can always open the door from the inside.
The "B-Solution": If your are locked-in and or if your are locked out and the black paddle is stiff and will not move at all...
==> then your problem is that spring-adjusting-rod is not moving to actuate the spring loaded hook that catches the striker.
* In my case this occurred because my plastic Keyless Door Entry System plunger was broken off it's mount and was jamming the adjusting rod. (See procedure to fix this in previous posts.
* And yes I do keep a drill and star bits, with misc tools inside.
You should too. However, with just these few flaws, I think this 30-900 Trimark lock is a good design. What Winnebago and Trimark have not done is explain to owners they need to adjust their door every 5-7 years as part of a Preventative Maintenance Schedule.
Once you adjust your Trimark 30-900 you will be good to go for another 5-10+ years.
Sorry i have not been on the site for awhile, i just got your question. So first of all I was locked on the outside with my keys in my hand, the black paddle was flapping it would not engage and it just felt loose no resistance or binding at all. I believe when i partially closed the door the U-shaped latch assembly got out of sync some how. I was home so i had access to the tools that i needed to remove the emergency window. I will take photos and upload pics tomorrow. Sorry for the delay and not clearly describing the issue and the fix.
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Tony & Connie 03 Itasca Sunova 27'
Colorado Springs CO
Apparently, the stock locks are prone to failure. The best idea, IMHO, is to install an RVlock system, that is keyless.
The original RV locks on your doors are all keyed alike, to a specific brand, so that the sales people can easily get in and out of the rigs with only one key on the lot.
The deadbolt is the only entry key that this unique to your rig.
So why not put on an RV lock system that’s keyless, amd keyed, unique to your coach. That way you have a fob and/or keypad and multiple ways of entry and they don’t have the issues with accidentally locking or breaking down as the standard locks do.
I gave up on that part of the lock mechanism and disabled the red latch part. Use the deadbolt and associated key. Why in the world did they make that double lock mechanism anyways?
Reading a lot on this subject - so OK the part of the lock that has all the issues is the round head key which is "SALESMAN KEY". Well heaven forbid RV dealers have to manage keys like car dealers do! Big PIA lock system when it's not working correctly.
pic #1 locking mechanism that i think was out of sync when door partially closed
pic #2 locking bar that engages lock mechanism and flips mechanism to lock position.
pic #3 outside emergency window after i drilled new holes, sealed & re-installed hinges
pic #4 emergency window latches, after i removed exterior screws on hinges i pulled up on frame to remove entire window. i need to install security screws and paint everything black. I hope this clears the mud.
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Tony & Connie 03 Itasca Sunova 27'
Colorado Springs CO
Apparently, the stock locks are prone to failure. The best idea, IMHO, is to install an RVlock system, that is keyless.
The original RV locks on your doors are all keyed alike, to a specific brand, so that the sales people can easily get in and out of the rigs with only one key on the lot.
The deadbolt is the only entry key that this unique to your rig.
So why not put on an RV lock system that’s keyless, amd keyed, unique to your coach. That way you have a fob and/or keypad and multiple ways of entry and they don’t have the issues with accidentally locking or breaking down as the standard locks do.
Unfortunately RVLock does not have a replacement for the Trimark 30-900! They claim they will have one by the end of the year, but I guess they didn't make it.
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Len and Linda
2019 Adventurer 35F
Retired Navy SWO and Navy Wife
Personally, I think the Trimark 030-900 is a very good lock. There are very few problems with these locks, and if you perform adjustments every 5-10 years you will have no problems at all.
Remember, in my case, my Trimark 030-900 lock got jammed because my Keyless Entry System (KES) plunger cracked and then it interfered with the action of the adjustment rod. So it was not the lock itself that failed.
EVERYONE who owns this lock needs to adjust it. Then you are good to go for another 5-10 years! The adjustment is easy to do and anyone with 1/4" drive, 7/16" thin-walled, deep-socket can do it.
I guess I'm a little slow mornings before my coffee, but what gives here ... the OP has a motorhome RV with only one door???
Of course am missing something here. Naturally, I for one would never buy a motorhome with only one access door - ours has three access doors plus the escape window.
(BTW, I think I have the same type of lock in one of my motorhome's access doors and have had to adjust and lubricate it to keep it operating smoothly. That lock is a bit complex inside.)
I guess I'm a little slow mornings before my coffee, but what gives here ... the OP has a motorhome RV with only one door???
Of course am missing something here. Naturally, I for one would never buy a motorhome with only one access door - ours has three access doors plus the escape window.
(BTW, I think I have the same type of lock in one of my motorhome's access doors and have had to adjust and lubricate it to keep it operating smoothly. That lock is a bit complex inside.)
It is quite standard for a Class-A to only have a single access door. For emergency egress, we have the driver/passenger windows, rear bedroom window, and the mid-entry door.
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-- I must be the last optimist on the planet
2018 Winnebago Intent 31P
Roadmaster anti-sway bar Front/Rear, Safe-T-Plus, SumoSprings-Front/Rear
Now that I have picked up my RV from storage and have made repairs to my Keyless Entry System (KES) plunger, I can make a few additional comments:
* This plungers have a motor and gears inside. And the KES system applies voltage in one direction to move the plunger forward; and voltage in the other direction to move the plunger backward. This locks and unlocks your Trimark lock.
* The plunger gear motor gets weak over 10+ years and since it's connected to the Trimark bottom locking cam... this is why the door may lock behind you when you slam or just close the door. I.e., the plunger is too weak to hold the locking cam into position, and it falls down due to gravity, which locks the door.
* If you find you door is mysteriously locking by it self -- and your paddle-handle does not engage sometimes to open the door -- and it just flaps in the wind -- then you need to adjust the locking bolt on the edge of the door using a 7/16" (think walled) deep socket and 1/4" drive ratchet. (See instructions above.)
* If you find you door is mysteriously locks it self -- and your your paddle-handle will not budge, which is what happened to me in this thread, and you have a KES that is no longer locking or unlocking the door -- then maybe your plunger mounting screws are lose or more likely the plunger housing is cracked and you need to replace it?
* The Trimark 30-900 lock is easy to understand once you separate the halves, and to do this you need a "Star Bit" to unscrew the lock inside plate. Then unscrew the 7/16" nut on the end of the door, and now your locking mechanisms will be in plain sight.
Here's the link on Amazon:
Zone Tech 2-Pack Universal High Power Door Lock Actuator
Note: The Trimark 30-900 bottom lock cam needs the plunger motor and gears to hold the locking cam in place. Without such a connection via that rod you see in the picture below then the cam would just flop around.
My RV came with a KES system and as I explained the plunger for the KES holds this cam in the open or locked position. However, I suppose, if your RV does not have a KES, then maybe you will find a spring in place of the KES plunger?
All I can tell you is that the plunger plastic mounting part cracked; and then the screw fell off and the plunger jammed that 4" rod against the door frame... freezing the Trimark lock in place... and I could not open the door until I separated the locking halves using that "Star Bit."
Note: My old plunger was made by Hamser. They call it a "Door Actuator" and the part number is #30-AC02. And I found the Zone Tech plunger to be the same form fit and function.
So this was another $400 repair I did myself for $10 and now I have an extra Zone Tech plunger if one of my cargo door actuators decides to quit working.
Below are the door adjustment instructions everyone should follow if the find their Trimark Door Paddle is getting somewhat loose or the throw is rather long, because you don't want to get locked out when you can avoid this by tightening that locking nut on the edge of your door... and then I applied some silicon glue to keep it from vibrating lose in the future. (See last picture.)
Should your KES system by SCS-Frigette not work anymore, and 99% do not, you can replace it with information contained in this thread for less than $50:
I see this thread has been raised from the dead and since it's awake again, I'll add my 0.02 cents.
My Trimark lock is the manual type but it's subject to having the lower lock spring get weak and sometimes not stay unlocked when needed. It is sort of self locking at times. Especially if the door is slammed. So what I do is put two ponytail elastic bands on the lock handle up over and round the door handle inside. The elastic is just strong enough to prevent the above issue and weak enough to still allow locking the door when needed. I also have the dead bolt above that lock but that's never presented a problem.
But since it's still possible to be locked out, I also leave the small window next to the door that's for the passenger, unlocked. Then I also leave the forward basement compartment unlocked most of the time. So if it happens that I'm locked out, I drag the 3 step ladder out of the compartment, pry open the small window, reach inside and work on unlatching the door. Works every time so far. And I carry a spare set of keys in the car.
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'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.
Twice locked out. . .first time the state park rangers came to the rescue and did a rescue through a roof air vent using two long tubes to unlatch the dining room window. . .then I crawled through. After that long episode. . .and it was very long on how to do it.. ..I keep one window unlocked when out of vehicle. Luckily I did. . When I arrived home the new door lock was stuck ( mechanic said it might need adjustment. . Huh!) and I went in the window.
Had the same happen to me last time camping. Stuck inside the mh while ata a gas station. Called for help me while waiting took faceplate cover off and found broken piece in the door. Somehow I mcgievered it using a flat tip screwdriver was able to disengage the dead bolt by manipulating the lock. Removed it and tied door close until able to locate a replacement lock locally (was out of state just trying to replace it so I could get home). Did I mention it was a mother and daughter solo trip. Needless to say my lock was only 3 yrs old when it suddenly failed. Agree with Wyatt if they make a RV Lock for you then replace the trimark. It was very Stressful to be locked in your rv with your child. Never again do,I want to experience that or god forbide my special needs son is locked in by himself while we are boondocking or camping. I think the trimark locks are seriously flawed in their design to fail with no warning.
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