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Old 09-04-2015, 04:27 AM   #181
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Changes you have made to your Meridian or Journey??

Finally reinforced the front generator door to its frame with a bead of 3M #5200, 700psi Marine Adhesive along the frame anywhere it contacts the fiberglass door. It won't come loose again..

Also installed Stainless rivets between the rear engine access cover and its frame to prevent it from breaking loose.
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Old 09-04-2015, 07:35 AM   #182
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Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
* REBUILT the 2 switch plate in the bath that I have always hated. One switch controls the light, the other opens the vent and turns on the fan. You have to reach up and turn off the fan to leave the cover open. Doesn't work for short folk (not me). New switch panel looks exactly like the OEM except it has 3 switches: Light, Fan, Cover and labeled appropriately. Should have been this way from the factory.
I assume you had to run a pair of wires from the vent down to the new switch? I've never liked how the switches work. I think I like your solution, not sure if I could fish the wires in mine...
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:33 AM   #183
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Changes you have made to your Meridian or Journey??

I ran one wire down to feed the fan through the new switch. The cool thing is if you leave this switch On, the vent operates as it always did. close the lid and the fan shuts off since the plunger switch on the lid is the ground return for the fan and it was untouched. Finding 12v was interesting though. Sure glad Winnebago publishes all of the drawings for the coach. I found what i needed in a giant loom in the wall.
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:35 PM   #184
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Originally Posted by SCVJeff View Post
Finally reinforced the front generator door to its frame with a bead of 3M #5200, 700psi Marine Adhesive along the frame anywhere it contacts the fiberglass door. It won't come loose again..

Also installed Stainless rivets between the rear engine access cover and its frame to prevent it from breaking loose.
Attachment 105761Attachment 105762Attachment 105763
Why the factory is not doing this I just don't know. You did a nice job and your pictures are great.
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Old 09-06-2015, 06:51 AM   #185
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Hi Dennis, I'm very interested in specifics on the Toad Charge and the REK and would appreciate the details.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:32 AM   #186
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Tom,
The Toad Charge keeps your battery topped off so it does not drain as you are pulling the tow down the road. I took the hot wire from the six way cord coming into the toad. Here is their website: TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer

Here is the article I did on the REK. I love it:
What is a REK-206 Kit?
I quickly learned it was the answer to an item that I have pondered for a very long time. When I used to own a gas Winnebago Suncruiser (in 2005), my motorhome was all over the road. I tried all kinds of things but the only thing that really worked was a sway bar. Now, with the bigger and heavier diesel I have often wondered why there was not a sway bar for the diesel. I was always told, there is too much force and weight to control. But, now there is a solution: The REK-206 KIT from Source Engineering, Inc. It is a Ride Enhancement Kit (RIK) for your Freightliner Chassis. This kit has been engineered from the ground up to control all the motions of your motorhome. This kit is designed specifically for FREIGHTLINER XC Chassis with an I-beam front axle for years 2003 through 2015. The up/down and back/forth swings are all controlled by each part of the kit. You get multiple ride improvement from each component. They work in concert with each other for a ride that can only be described as “riding on glass.” No more wobble, Walmart shake, porpoising, side to side swings, jarring, being pushed by truck wind, or “bangs” when crossing bridges, etc.
The Source Engineering, Inc (www.chass-rv.com) ride enhancement kit (REK-206 KIT) includes four primary components:

1. Four specialized air control valves for your air bags
2. Two front custom built very large Bilstein shocks
3. Two rear custom built Bilstien shocks
4. A new to the industry “sway bar” for a diesel
With these four components all working together, you will have an unbelievable ride. To understand the different components and how the shocks have been significantly upgraded go to:

The bottom line is this: If you have had your fill of the swaying, bumping, rocking, or whatever you want to call it; then you need the Ride Enhancement Kit (REK-206) from Source Engineering, Inc. Give them a call at 541-343-0293.
I love my new ride and would recommend it to anyone without any hesitation. You will be very satisfied with the improved ride. Even my wife said the ride is improved; it rides tighter, smoother, and no longer feels like it wallows around like a boat. In short, it is awesome. Call or email me if you have any questions.
Oh, I should mention I had the kit installed at JOSAM Truck Frame and Alignment in Orlando, Florida. They did a great job and were extremely helpful. They treated each customer as gold and made sure you were pleased with their work. I would not hesitate to recommend them. People from all over the state were there because of their excellent reputation.
No, I am not an owner or investor in any of these companies. Just an extremely pleased customer, and I want you to know about a good product.
Dennis Graham
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:38 PM   #187
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Screen door

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Does anyone else find the screen material in the entry door annoying when traveling? My wife doesn't care for it because it "dulls" the view of the countryside, and I don't like it because it darkens the view when looking to the right for traffic, etc. Our previous Journey had an aftermarket solution that allowed for the screen to retract. This 36M door is made differently.

Today, after removing the factory screening, I built a prototype screen frame that will fit into the screen door frame recess. The only problem is the upper hinge protrudes so I had to modify a section of the frame which involved notching and riveting an aluminum offset at the hinge. I'm not yet sure if this is going to be the final design. Next step is to figure out how to hold it in place in a quick and easy manner. I'm leaning towards rare earth magnets.

I'll post pics when I finish. Right now, the coach is back in the Bat Cave for a week or so.

cheers,
Joopy

Did you ever do this.? Can you post photos and let us know how you did it. My wife hates that screen setup
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Old 02-13-2016, 10:42 PM   #188
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Screen Door

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That door handle secure is interesting but the bungee is working fine and is easy to store. Thanks for the suggestion in any case.

I agree with the screen in the door. I find it a distraction though DW is not concerned. She is not the driver. I plan on going to HD or Lowes and getting some screen parts.

I am now talking from an idea without feet, so this may be wrong as I sit typing. My idea is to build the screen frame to fit inside the track of the old screen. I thing there are "toggle" type fasteners in the fastener drawer section of Hardware. I have seen small plastic types that I think will do the trick.

Proof of my idea will be in the finding of all I am imagining and making it work. The hinge area mentioned by the other poster is a concern. Pictures to follow when I get to the project.

My wife hates the screen door set up in our 2013 Merdian 34B. Can you post some pictures of what you did and tell us more about how you did it
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Old 02-14-2016, 12:52 PM   #189
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Did you ever do this.? Can you post photos and let us know how you did it. My wife hates that screen setup
Yes, I did complete this project and it worked great . Unfortunately, I did this on our previous coach (36M) and we've since bought another coach. I didn't take photos but I'll try to explain what I did.

First, pulled the existing screen and rubber retainer and disposed. Then, went to Lowes and purchased dark colored window screen frame and four (4) corner fittings. Also purchased enough dark colored screen material and new screen retainer gasket. You'll need the screening tool as well. Build the frame large enough to fit the existing recessed opening on the OUTSIDE of the screen door.

Now, you'll have two door hinge bolts that will be in the way of the new frame setting flush with the door. What I did was cut out about 4 or 5 inches of frame at the bolt section. I manufactured an offset (think shape of drawer pull) from a piece of aluminum flat stock the same width as the new frame and 1/8" thick. I used rivets to fasten the offset to the new frame.

Fastening - I bought six (6) rare earth magnets with holes to fasten with a small screw. I screwed two to the top of the door frame and one to the bottom of the door frame. Then I installed the remaining three magnets to the new frame at the appropriate locations. You need to keep in mind the polarity of the magnets when aligning them.

Installing and removing the screen is very simple. Such a relief to have a clear view while driving. I stored the screen on the back wall of the bedroom closet when not in use. I installed two small swivel latches on the wall to hold away from the clothing and against the back closet wall.

Hope that helps you. It's really not a tough job, just a little time consuming. Worth the effort

PS - the new coach has a different screen door frame and I'll have to get time to figure out a different approach, but I plan to do the same.

cheers,
Joopy
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:54 PM   #190
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We finally were able to dump the horrible narrow table that came with our 40U and replaced it with this nice 36" double drop leaf free standing table! Here are before and after pics.Attachment 94492

Attachment 94493
What do you do with it when you travel?
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Old 02-14-2016, 01:56 PM   #191
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Originally Posted by Jupiter View Post
Yes, I did complete this project and it worked great . Unfortunately, I did this on our previous coach (36M) and we've since bought another coach. I didn't take photos but I'll try to explain what I did.

First, pulled the existing screen and rubber retainer and disposed. Then, went to Lowes and purchased dark colored window screen frame and four (4) corner fittings. Also purchased enough dark colored screen material and new screen retainer gasket. You'll need the screening tool as well. Build the frame large enough to fit the existing recessed opening on the OUTSIDE of the screen door.

Now, you'll have two door hinge bolts that will be in the way of the new frame setting flush with the door. What I did was cut out about 4 or 5 inches of frame at the bolt section. I manufactured an offset (think shape of drawer pull) from a piece of aluminum flat stock the same width as the new frame and 1/8" thick. I used rivets to fasten the offset to the new frame.

Fastening - I bought six (6) rare earth magnets with holes to fasten with a small screw. I screwed two to the top of the door frame and one to the bottom of the door frame. Then I installed the remaining three magnets to the new frame at the appropriate locations. You need to keep in mind the polarity of the magnets when aligning them.

Installing and removing the screen is very simple. Such a relief to have a clear view while driving. I stored the screen on the back wall of the bedroom closet when not in use. I installed two small swivel latches on the wall to hold away from the clothing and against the back closet wall.

Hope that helps you. It's really not a tough job, just a little time consuming. Worth the effort

PS - the new coach has a different screen door frame and I'll have to get time to figure out a different approach, but I plan to do the same.

cheers,
Joopy
Thanks. I think I will give it a try If I get it done, I will post some pictures

Craig
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:23 PM   #192
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My wife and I are not big lovers of the legless dinette setups, so I removed the table from the buffet, filled the space with matching maple faux door and installed a matching mini table for snacks and games next to the couch.

I used the sequoia table legs and the "foot-friendly" floor mounts. We let the kids design the table shape and we think it works great because there are not sharp corners to grab hips.

The plus side is - it really opened up the walkway in our 34B when the slides are in. We stored the fixed chairs in the house and carry the folding chairs in the back closet so 4 people can sit at the table when needed.

Adam
We have the same coach and the same complaint. We have been ok with the levels, but the chairs are too short. I am a tall guy and the chairs are still too low

So how did you mount the table legs and floor mounts on the tile? I am thinking of doing this to ours

Craig
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Old 02-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #193
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My wife hates the screen door set up in our 2013 Merdian 34B. Can you post some pictures of what you did and tell us more about how you did it
I will when I do it. Have been procrastinating with the project. I replaced the original screening with a light grey color. The material is thinner which makes it less serviceable. I recently noticed that it is tearing where it meets the frame down low in the "traffic" area. The light color is great for traveling but looks more obvious than the dark when looking at it from an angle.

I think Joppy has the better idea with the magnets. I didn't see how he sealed the gap between the new frame and the door caused by the magnets. I guess a roll of foam insulation would work.

I need to get on the stick and get this project going.

A side note. I just registered for this years GNR. I have wanted to go but could never work it in. I am using the need to replace the drivers side slide shoe, that long brown cloth covered thing that slides on the floor, because the ends broke off and the floor is getting scratched. I just don't trust a dealer to do this correctly.

Happy trails. Hope to see yea at the GNR.

Rick Y
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:51 AM   #194
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Update on Screen Door project

So thanks to you all, and a lot of phone calls, I have learned more towards a solution for the screen door on my 2013 Meridian. First, older Winnebago product doors were made by Atwood. Many of these featured a sliding screen in the door. However, our models no longer use the Atwood door, and Atwood's sliding screen would not fit, even if they had any. After a very helpful and productive visit with the folks at T-3's RV products (a place a got from this discussion) they told me the same. They said one of there units on site had them and would go look. She mentioned that MCD makes a new roll-down screen for doors. Screen Door Pull-up Shade. She went out and looked and took pictures for me. Turns out that these are very nice and easy to custom order, however they are sun shades and not bug screens. She then told me that doors on newer Winnebago products were made by Lippert Screen Doors. After talking with the folks at Lippert I learned that they do not make a rolling or removable screen for their doors.

I bought my coach used, and the previous owner had cut Plexiglas to the exact size of both the top and bottom halfs of the door and put velcro continuously along the outside of the screen door frame, so it is removable. This is how I am going to solve the problem. Make a custom screen frame from a hardware store and put velcro continuously along it. It will be a month or more before i do it as it is still too cold to work outside, but I will try and post pictures when I do it.
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Old 02-16-2016, 04:57 PM   #195
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Rick, the magnets actually connect end-to-end (polarity) and not flat against each other. So, this creates only about an 1/8" gap between the frame and the door. I was wondering how to address the gap but as it turned out with the 3/4" wide frame setting in the even wider door recess I found out that insects really don't find there way by the screen. So, I didn't apply any filler and it worked just fine without.

Magnum - You've refreshed my memory of when we had an 05' Journey. I did in fact purchase the T-3 RV screen and it worked great! Unfortunately, as you stated the doors have changed and they no longer have a screen mod that works. Our new coach has a pull down night shade but no obvious way to mount a pull down screen. I'll likely go back to the magnetic screen frame this summer.

cheers,
Joopy
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Old 03-28-2016, 04:59 PM   #196
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Successful Removable door screen

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Rick, the magnets actually connect end-to-end (polarity) and not flat against each other. So, this creates only about an 1/8" gap between the frame and the door. I was wondering how to address the gap but as it turned out with the 3/4" wide frame setting in the even wider door recess I found out that insects really don't find there way by the screen. So, I didn't apply any filler and it worked just fine without.

Magnum - You've refreshed my memory of when we had an 05' Journey. I did in fact purchase the T-3 RV screen and it worked great! Unfortunately, as you stated the doors have changed and they no longer have a screen mod that works. Our new coach has a pull down night shade but no obvious way to mount a pull down screen. I'll likely go back to the magnetic screen frame this summer.

cheers,
Joopy

So, I finally did it. I went to the Lowes and bought one of their custom screen kits. Then I bought some bulk screen. In my case, I bought solar screen. I then measured the outer frame of the upper half of the screen door. I put velcro all along each of the sides of the window, on the outside of the door. I measured the outer dimensions of the upper half of the door and made a square screen. I put the other side of the velcro on the new screen frame I made. then I put the solar screen in and attached with the bead. Took the original screen out. Now when we are stopped, I simply velcro the square screen in. When we drive, I take it out and can see out the window great. And, my wife is happy, because now she can see out the window. I highly recommend this mod.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:22 PM   #197
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dengraham, I was reading your post about lighting up the entry handle and was wondering how did you get the ends off? I've soaked them in hot water and I even used a heat gun till it was too hot to handle and it still won't come loose. Is there a trick to it? Any help is appreciated. I want to put lights in both ends to really light it up.
Thanks for any info you have,
Raydar
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:40 PM   #198
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dengraham, I was reading your post about lighting up the entry handle and was wondering how did you get the ends off? I've soaked them in hot water and I even used a heat gun till it was too hot to handle and it still won't come loose. Is there a trick to it? Any help is appreciated. I want to put lights in both ends to really light it up.
Thanks for any info you have,
Raydar
Raydar, I did this back when this coach was new to me. Did it on the previous one also. All I did was remove the screws, top and bottom, of the handle mount. The lamp goes in the bottom of the handle and just slips in. Make a water tight mounting when putting things back together.

Rick Y
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:48 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by Magnum108 View Post
So, I finally did it. I went to the Lowes and bought one of their custom screen kits. Then I bought some bulk screen. In my case, I bought solar screen. I then measured the outer frame of the upper half of the screen door. I put velcro all along each of the sides of the window, on the outside of the door. I measured the outer dimensions of the upper half of the door and made a square screen. I put the other side of the velcro on the new screen frame I made. then I put the solar screen in and attached with the bead. Took the original screen out. Now when we are stopped, I simply velcro the square screen in. When we drive, I take it out and can see out the window great. And, my wife is happy, because now she can see out the window. I highly recommend this mod.
Pictures to follow?

Rick Y
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:01 PM   #200
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Had mulled the idea of pulling out the "J" couch ever since we bought it. Well this year while down in the RGV ON SPI, we did it.local repair person and I pulled it out and bought two Lazy boy recliners and set them on the slide. Small table between for drinks and we are all set. Sit back and relax. Even naps well! Love it.
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