2005 Winnebago Journey dash ac/heat not working properly

rlb9585 · 06-23-2023, 05:52 AM

Hello everyone,

I'm new to the forum and to the diesel pusher world. We recently bought a 2005 Winnebago Journey 39F and the dash ac/heat only blows out of the defrost and floor vents, it also blows harder on the third blower setting than it does on the fourth. I'm wondering if I'm chasing multiple problems. I believe the defrost/floor issue is a vacuum problem, but any direction from this group would be much appreciated. I'm a little confused on the fan speed, could the control head be bad causing this issue or both issues possibly? Again any direction from the group is appreciated.

Ranger Smith · 06-23-2023, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlb9585

Hello everyone,

I'm new to the forum and to the diesel pusher world. We recently bought a 2005 Winnebago Journey 39F and the dash ac/heat only blows out of the defrost and floor vents, it also blows harder on the third blower setting than it does on the fourth. I'm wondering if I'm chasing multiple problems. I believe the defrost/floor issue is a vacuum problem, but any direction from this group would be much appreciated. I'm a little confused on the fan speed, could the control head be bad causing this issue or both issues possibly? Again any direction from the group is appreciated.

There is a vacuum pump mounted on the front firewall under the hood. Those go bad. It could also be that one of the vacuum lines cracked and not supplying proper vacuum. Had that problem with our 2006 Journey when we had it.

rlb9585 · 06-23-2023, 05:58 AM

Thanks Ranger Smith, I will check that vacuum pump.

Ray,IN · 06-23-2023, 09:16 PM

With my MH, when I turn on the key I can hear the vacuum pump start running unless the air pressure is low and the alarm is sounding. I have a black round vacuum storage reservoir beside the pump. Those are known to develop leaks as well as the hoses.

rlb9585 · 06-24-2023, 06:46 AM

That's exactly what I discovered yesterday, it had power going to it with the key on, but the pump would not run.

Thanks to both you guys for the help.

Morich · 06-24-2023, 08:18 AM

As a way to sort it down to different causes, there may be enough access to spot a few things to test.
For vacuum testing, finding a common point where a bunch of the lines come together may be a start. If you can spot which lines go to the levers and flaps on the heater, pulling different lines off and holding a finger over the hole on the fitting, can let you tell where you have vacuum and not.
While doing this, it may help to have a helper try different setttings on the heater. If you have a tube which has split, taking it off the system and stopping the leak with a finger, may let the rest start to work as they should.
Much depends on luck?? Can you find them and can you reach them?

For the fan speeds, it is sounding more like a defect in the electrical part of the controls, either at the control body or at a resister pack that is often mounted on the heater body where the air flows. The air is used to cool the resister coils.
If you are not familiar with these, it may be worthwhile to do a search for "resister pack" for the chassis your RV is on to get a look at a picture to ease spotting it?
This is the type I normally thing of but know little about the pusher group:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HVAC-Blo...CunFdkzxYGzwLM

Idea is that the switch changes the route of the power to the blower, making it run through different levels of resistance to get to the motor. That changes the speed of the fan, but if one of those routes through different coils goes open or changes, the fan speeds will not all work!
The route going bad CAN happen in the controls or at the pack but it is semi-common at the pack. Simple wire springs that heat and cool to eventually break kind of like a filiment in light bulbs ?

Where do they put it on the pusher group? On front end gas, it is often just hung right on the big plastic "cover" which carries the air over the heater,etc and to the different vents. One big central point where all the vents come together and spotted by the wires going to the pack, it is often only mounted with a couple screws.

EverettO · 07-19-2023, 10:50 PM

I just chased this problem down on my 2008 Itasca gasser. Although yours is a pusher, I suspect it is the same problem. I found that the green and blue vacuum lines were cracked in front of the firewall. I replace these with oversized vacuum hoses Bought at the car parts store, and I joined them with heat shrink. I also discovered that the vacuum actuator to the blend door had about a tablespoon of sand in it, and the mechanism was rusted. If that doesn’t move, it leaves you on defrost when you move to max air. So in the number three position on the fan, AC, it works well. But the second you go to Max AC, it tries to go to interior recirculating air, but can’t move the blend door. Then it defaults to pushing air out the defroster instead. feel free to message me if you want more details. But honestly what you’re experiencing sounds Exactly like what I was experiencing. I found the solution deep in the forums.

buckeye · 08-08-2023, 06:21 AM

I have a 2004 Itasca with the same problem. Can you tell me where the
vacuum actuator is located? I can hear the fan blowing on A/C and A?C Max but no air coming from the dash vents.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Good day

EverettO · 08-08-2023, 10:02 AM

As you were looking at your engine from the front of your vehicle, you will likely see a large black box to the left. Just to the left of that, in fact, attached to it on a bracket, is a bell shaped item. That is the actuator.. If your vacuum lines have not been changed out or covered, you will probably see a blue small line going to that actuator.

cbeierl · 08-08-2023, 10:16 AM

Take a look at this thread--it may have some useful info: Vacuum Pump Failure

Morich · 08-08-2023, 10:45 AM

Looking under the "hood" on RV, you are likely to find a bunch of tubing that come together at some central point. If you take one line off and feel the suction on that tube while the engine is running it may tell you the story?
There should be enough vacuum to feel it suck on your finger. IF not begin to look at any tube attached to the central point for leaks! Some favor just replacing any of the tubing that looks brittle as it is likely to be some point where you have a hard time spotting the leak!!
If not leaking today, it may be tomorrow so fix it before it goes bad when you really want to use it?
It CAN be an actually hardware part but heat works on the tube so often that it is a really common problem.

buckeye · 08-09-2023, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EverettO

As you were looking at your engine from the front of your vehicle, you will likely see a large black box to the left. Just to the left of that, in fact, attached to it on a bracket, is a bell shaped item. That is the actuator.. If your vacuum lines have not been changed out or covered, you will probably see a blue small line going to that actuator.

Thanks for your help. I did locate it, and have got the
air flow going. Not as strong as I think it should be,
at least I'm getting cold air in the cabin now.