RV 2 Way Main Water Pump Switch?

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

Glad to hear you've gotten a handle on the lingo and the design!

I'll finish up the diagrams for wiring and switches for Option B. That will allow me to put together a list of materials. Some I already have. If you could confirm for me the approximate distance between the monitor panel and the location the pump switch will go in the bath I'd appreciate knowing that.

The switch you ordered appears to be a Carling look-alike. Authentic Carling switches allow you to pop off the "cover," or actuator, or rocker, or whatever-its-known-by and to put a different cover on it its place. It may be possible to transfer the cover of the switch you have ordered to a new Carling switch of the ON1/ON2 type. We'll see!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

Glad to hear you've gotten a handle on the lingo and the design!

I'll finish up the diagrams for wiring and switches for Option B. That will allow me to put together a list of materials. Some I already have. If you could confirm for me the approximate distance between the monitor panel and the location the pump switch will go in the bath I'd appreciate knowing that.

The switch you ordered appears to be a Carling look-alike. Authentic Carling switches allow you to pop off the "cover," or actuator, or rocker, or whatever-its-known-by and to put a different cover on it its place. It may be possible to transfer the cover of the switch you have ordered to a new Carling switch of the ON1/ON2 type. We'll see!

It is about 3 1/2' straight line , but I would estimate 5' end to end for a wire that is connected to back of panel and to the switch. This would allow for slack to pull switch out about 6" and to pull the Panel out about 12" which is about how far out I have Panel out now while it is still apart.

I have looked but not seen any of the Water Pump label ON-None-On with Water Pump but I have seen a few that are similar. I could ask the seller if they have one available. Or I may ask another seller that has similar looking switch for ON-NONE-ON that is label for other things if it is possible they have one that says Water pump.

FWIW, I like ON1/ON2 better, but since I have the learn what the way of the industry, I will get there in understanding.

[blifsey]

I just holler out, "Hey honey, would you switch on the water pump?!?" 😀

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by blifsey

I just holler out, "Hey honey, would you switch on the water pump?!?" 😀

That and me running out Naked to flip the switch I am surprised WBGO doesn't incorporate this feature for that reason alone. If I wind up being sued in court, I will blame WBGO for negligence of Switch Placement

But seriously after 4 years I really love our coach. I have made a number of changes akin to this, but this one has turned into a real learning experience and if successful, every time I press that button, it will be with a smile

[Four Seasons]

I understand the question, and appreciate all the suggestions however I am left wondering, why not just leave the water pump switch on?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Four Seasons

I understand the question, and appreciate all the suggestions however I am left wondering, why not just leave the water pump switch on?

Or you could say, why not just remember to turn it ON before going to the bathroom. I do mostly and I do leave it ON some times.

But, I turn if off, because I don't have use for it and habit, No particular reason. I turn off the hot water heater as well. Unless it is really cold outside, we run our hot water heater about 30 minutes in the morning and will have hot water all day while hot water heater is off.

I turn the water pump off and on mostly when traveling. When driving I have it off and then when I stop to pump gas, I may go to the bathroom and realize it is off Not the biggest problem in the world, but if I could put a simple switch in the bathroom without making major changes to my OEM setup I would.

FWIW, if I have to keep just one switch, where it is makes sense. I just thought it was a simple mod to add a 2nd $11 switch.

I added dimmer switches for similar reasons, connected our Norcold Fridge to the MBR TV ( that we never use) 120vac circuit so it can run off Inverter, but I only use it when driving to keep food & drinks Ice Cold without having to use Generator or Propane.

[dkoldman]

I did some research on Amazon & ebay last night. I even talked to a few that sell the switches. The closest I could find was https://www.ebay.com/itm/325616767750?var=514641737480 but it is ON-OFF-ON

So I think that is 3 position switch and have a true OFF and just add a little more complexity.

I was asked twice why NOT use a ON/OFF I was actually able to tell them because I trying to find a switch that will match the wiring in my coach. It still confused one dealer because he knows I bought the Bluelit ON/OFF from him.

Based on Option B I know the Blue Light ON/OFF switch does not work in one of the 4 scenarios, I may have to look at that harder. I think I can find a true ON-NONE-ON switch with LED, but it will not show that it is for Water Pump or a picture of water faucet.

Or as what was stated before, if my cover from my bluelit will fit on a lighted Carling ON-NONE-ON switch.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

You've been busy! I've been looking at switch/LED options, too.I have found reasonably-priced and in-stock parts to make each of the options listed below.

Please ignore the "CODE" boxes in this message. I added them because the text inside the boxes was not formatted as I liked.

1) Build a panel that matches the light switch with dimmer that you installed in the bath. It will be black, with a ON1/ON2 switch on the left and a red LED indicator on the right. The indicator would light when the water pump is on.

Pros: Looks like the light switch with dimmer (factory look)
Cons: No label for water pump

2) Build a panel that uses the same (or similar) switch as on the monitor panel. It will be black, with a ON1/ON2 switch on the left and a red LED indicator on the right. The indicator would light when the water pump is on.

Pros: Switch is now a common part with monitor panel
Cons: No label for water pump

3) Some posts ago, you linked to a panel like the one in option 2), but it was horizontal and had "WATER PUMP" printed between the switch and indicator.

Pros: Switch is now a common part with monitor panel
      Labeled for water pump
Cons: Horizontal, not vertical
      Must confirm the switch is ON1/ON2, or replace it with
         a switch that is ON1/ON2

4) Order Winnebago's part number 108357-15-000, which supposedly is Carling VDD1160B-0.

Pros: Winnebago part; should have less problem sourcing a
         replacement
      If your switch's cover fits, would light up the upper
         icon (looks like a water faucet)
      Has second set of contacts (of no use at the moment,
         but could be useful if you added a third switch.
         I found out how that could be done today.)
Cons: Lamp, not LED
      Doesn't have a second lamp/LED to light the words
                  "WATER PUMP"

5) Order a different Carling switch, one with illumination on both top and bottom. Could be lamps or LEDs. You get to choose color (white, amber, red, green. blue). Assumes the switch cover you bought could be used on this new switch, or could order a custom cover that works and looks the same for not that much money. The words "WATER PUMP" could be lit all the time or just when the pump is on. I suspect you'd want the "water faucet" icon to be lit only when the pump is on.

Pros: Full use of the water faucet icon and
         the "WATER PUMP" words
Cons: Not a Winnebago part
      May or may not have second set of contacts
         for future use
      "WATER PUMP" illumination all the time would draw
         from house battery (small draw, though)

Perhaps you could rank these options in order of preference?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

You've been busy! I've been looking at switch/LED options, too.I have found reasonably-priced and in-stock parts to make each of the options listed below.

Please ignore the "CODE" boxes in this message. I added them because the text inside the boxes was not formatted as I liked.

1) Build a panel that matches the light switch with dimmer that you installed in the bath. It will be black, with a ON1/ON2 switch on the left and a red LED indicator on the right. The indicator would light when the water pump is on.

Pros: Looks like the light switch with dimmer (factory look)
Cons: No label for water pump

I don't want to try to build a new panel. It may prove to be too much trouble to find a plate that fits existing dimmer switch and the new switch. My space on wall is also vertical not horizontal.
2) Build a panel that uses the same (or similar) switch as on the monitor panel. It will be black, with a ON1/ON2 switch on the left and a red LED indicator on the right. The indicator would light when the water pump is on.

Pros: Switch is now a common part with monitor panel
Cons: No label for water pump

I would prefer #1 over this, but I am sure I don't want separate LED with no label. Also I don't want to try to build a new panel. It may prove to be too much trouble to find a plate that fits existing dimmer switch and the new switch. My space on wall is also vertical not horizontal.
3) Some posts ago, you linked to a panel like the one in option 2), but it was horizontal and had "WATER PUMP" printed between the switch and indicator.

Pros: Switch is now a common part with monitor panel
      Labeled for water pump
Cons: Horizontal, not vertical
      Must confirm the switch is ON1/ON2, or replace it with
         a switch that is ON1/ON2

I would accept this but the switch is confirmed to be ON/OFF. I discount because if I go ON/OFF I have the Blue Lit Switch on order.
4) Order Winnebago's part number 108357-15-000, which supposedly is Carling VDD1160B-0.

Pros: Winnebago part; should have less problem sourcing a
         replacement
      If your switch's cover fits, would light up the upper
         icon (looks like a water faucet)
      Has second set of contacts (of no use at the moment,
         but could be useful if you added a third switch.
         I found out how that could be done today.)
Cons: Lamp, not LED
      Doesn't have a second lamp/LED to light the words
                  "WATER PUMP"

I can't find a picture of this part, it remains an option but if I saw it may be akin to any ON-NONE-ON switch with LED built in with no Water Pump designation? I just need more research here.
5) Order a different Carling switch, one with illumination on both top and bottom. Could be lamps or LEDs. You get to choose color (white, amber, red, green. blue). Assumes the switch cover you bought could be used on this new switch, or could order a custom cover that works and looks the same for not that much money. The words "WATER PUMP" could be lit all the time or just when the pump is on. I suspect you'd want the "water faucet" icon to be lit only when the pump is on.

Pros: Full use of the water faucet icon and
         the "WATER PUMP" words
Cons: Not a Winnebago part
      May or may not have second set of contacts
         for future use
      "WATER PUMP" illumination all the time would draw
         from house battery (small draw, though)

Perhaps you could rank these options in order of preference?



The Switch I have on order now allows me to jumper the LED so that it is NOT lit all the time, only when pump is on and both will light up the words water pump and the faucet icon at the same time. For sure if my blue lit cover would work this would be an option but not if one if one light ( water pump) has to stay lit all the time.

The only option I see as viable is #5. The others I would rule out as you have pointed out the cons, but I have added a few more above that applies.

I will keep digging tonight on more ON-NONE-ON options.

There are two other options

6) What happens if you wire the ON/OFF switch to use the same ON contact in your Option B?

7) What happens with all 4 combinations if wiring is wired in Parallel using a ON/OFF?

[dkoldman]

There are three other options

6) What happens if you wire the ON/OFF switch to use the same ON contact in your Option B?

7) What happens with all 4 combinations if wiring is wired in Parallel using a ON/OFF?

8) What happens if you use a ON-OFF-ON?

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

Re: Options 6 and 7. Using an ON-OFF switch in parallel with the existing monitor panel switch will work, after a fashion. See the first diagram from my post #74, which I've copied below. The biggest drawback is that to truly turn the pump on and off using the switch in the bath the switch in the existing monitor panel switch must be in the off position. Similarly, to truly turn the pump off with the existing monitor panel switch the switch in the bath must be in the off position. You are better off using the ON1/ON2 type switch, as Winnebago intended.




Re: Option 8. An ON-OFF-ON can work in place of an ON1/ON2 (ON-NONE-ON). It has a switch position (OFF) where nothing happens. A couple ON1/ON2 switches are available (in-stock), so you don't gain much by selecting an ON-OFF-ON switch.

If you'd like me to finish the design and gather the materials, I'll do that, using option 4 and/or option 5. I'm also happy to hold off for more discussion/clarification/options/etc.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

Re: Options 6 and 7. Using an ON-OFF switch in parallel with the existing monitor panel switch will work, after a fashion. See the first diagram from my post #74, which I've copied below. The biggest drawback is that to truly turn the pump on and off using the switch in the bath the switch in the existing monitor panel switch must be in the off position. Similarly, to truly turn the pump off with the existing monitor panel switch the switch in the bath must be in the off position. You are better off using the ON1/ON2 type switch, as Winnebago intended.

I will break my responses up so I don't confuse myself.

First, I realize the ON1/ON2 is better and what WBGO intended, I just have not found or seen one that I like. I am still looking but I have learned they are very hard to find. Must not be very common. We use to have a Electronic shop around the corner that had everything, I could walk in; tell what I was doing and $1 later I had everything I needed. The closest I have seen with ON-NONE-ON had Amber light no words no graphics. I am still looking.

2. What does it means when you say Using an ON-OFF switch in parallel with the existing monitor panel switch will work, after a fashion. I don't follow after a fashion?

3. Your diagram pictured with ON/OFF and ON-NONE-ON actually fulfills my requirement. It simply says if any switch is ON or in ON position of the ON-NONE-ON my pump will be ON and all LEDs on both Switches will be lit.

The fact that both have to OFF for pump to be OFF is okay, because going back to my requirement, my main goal is to be able to turn Pump ON in Bath when other switch is OFF. In a way, it keeps the the main switch acting as ON / OFF so it stays simple.

FWIW, when leaving I always go back to the bath to ensure the Light Dimmer Switch is OFF so we can also ensure the Water Pump switch in Bath is OFF, if Not we will see the old faith Red light in the hallway to turn it off.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

Re: Option 8. An ON-OFF-ON can work in place of an ON1/ON2 (ON-NONE-ON). It has a switch position (OFF) where nothing happens. A couple ON1/ON2 switches are available (in-stock), so you don't gain much by selecting an ON-OFF-ON switch.

If you'd like me to finish the design and gather the materials, I'll do that, using option 4 and/or option 5. I'm also happy to hold off for more discussion/clarification/options/etc.

On Option 8, I have a lot more shopping options with ON-OFF-ON with bluelit and water pump label. Not saying I want to do, but that it was an option.

Here is a ON-OFF-ON that is very close to what I have ordered. Maybe the covers fit it and I have to deal with the nuisance of the OFF position?

https://www.amazon.com/HOKAAER-Water...99X49C3L&psc=1

So far this is the only ON-NONE-ON switch that I have seen that is close, but It is Carling. I don't like it, so I am still looking around for other ON-NONE-ON or hoping that my cover can replace one? They are just not widely available from what I can tell.

https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/e...hoCcOEQAvD_BwE

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

Perhaps you missed me saying so, but I have found suitable switches. You can stop looking.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

Perhaps you missed me saying so, but I have found suitable switches. You can stop looking.

Yes I must have missed. Has it been that long... I have been searching everywhere, on phone with a few electronic shops etc. I found this one on Amazon, but it does not have Water Pump or Blue light, but it is ON-ON

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...HFZHO49U&psc=1

FWIW, the new switch just arrived. It is of good quality and the wiring gauge is a lot thicker than what I would have thought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L6TBJ56...roduct_details

[dkoldman]

Update:

We travel tomorrow so with getting the new blue lit switch last night; I was determined to at least try the v4 model I had in Post #69.

Note: I wired such such that I did not cut, splice, or T tap into any of WBGO's OEM wiring; so it is very easy to remove. All of the diagrams are still valid and sound options.

I am pleased to say that the Blue Lit switch is working as expected

If either switch or both switches are turned On, both LEDs light up. The bath switch lights up 2 LEDs to show the words Water Pump and the icon of the Faucet. Both switches Must be OFF in order for LEDs / Pump to shut off. This is what we were seeking to turn the pump ON/OFF from bathroom. Note: If Master Switch (Main) was ON, thus far we have never had a need to turn it OFF while in the Bath.

Next steps:

I have not cut any holes in the wall so I have time to wait on any other viable options, but we love that switch. It will be next week ( Mon) when we return.

If we stay this course, I will label all of the wiring. I cleverly use the T Tap splices on my wiring and my OEM like Dimmer light switch. So all of the OEM wiring and males spade ends simply plugged into my T taps

Then I will need to cut a hole to mount the new bath switch on the wall. I ordered a plate off Amazon, but it is too tight for the new switch to fit through. I am thinking about taking one of my original OEM switch/plate sets from light switches that I removed two years ago and to try to cut one of those out, if it works; I will have a wall plate for the new bath switch that is identical to existing Bath light switch.

Thanks all for the help especially L1v3 aka Mark

With all of the above being said, I am not done, and still open on all options. I wanted to share why I will have limited access starting tomorrow through next week. But for now, I have some peace to know that it can be done and it works.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

dkoldman-

I almost can see the shine from your smile from my house!

I'm happy the switch is working well. If it is sized the same as a Carling V-series switch it should fit in a Carling VMS-01 mounting plate. Here's a link to a place where you can buy one in black. There are other sellers on the Web.

I hope you have smooth traveling on your trip.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

dkoldman-

I almost can see the shine from your smile from my house!

I'm happy the switch is working well. If it is sized the same as a Carling V-series switch it should fit in a Carling VMS-01 mounting plate. Here's a link to a place where you can buy one in black. There are other sellers on the Web.

I hope you have smooth traveling on your trip.

You sir are an Enabler

The new switch is the sized the same as a Carling series switch. When I said it was too tight earlier that was due to operator error or more like a training curve for me.

Last night when I was showing the blue light switch to my wife; we talked about the Drain Switch that is in the Outdoor Kitchen. We have always hated that momentary switch because if you want to do something as simple as wash your hands, or plates you have to hold it for it to drain out the sink elsewise it fills with dirty water Gosh WBGO needs to hire me.

Anyway, I pulled out the Drain switch because I have become embolden It may have what you called an Adapter? Only two yellow WBGO wires so it looks to be 12v+ in and 12v+ out. My point.... it was in a smaller panel plate very similar to the one that I had purchased for Blue Light switch. When I figured out how to get the Carling Drain switch out of the Carling Panel plate, I realized that I simply was not pressing the new BlueLight Switch into the New panel plate hard enough. I was afraid of breaking the switch tabs, but I got it now.

I can't wait to get back with more time because I think I will have another project to replace that momentary switch. I am thinking one with Red Lights so it is is easier to see if it is on. While I may have to run a ground to the switch to make it ON/OFF with the red lights, it should fit into same Carling plate.

For now a BILGE PUMP switch is the best I can find because I do not see anything with similar Red lights that say DRAIN PUMP or even just DRAIN.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LQFQSY9?ref=myi_title_dp

[Ray,IN]

Sounds like a neat job!
FWIW, this is how Winnebago wires the MPX latching relay, but lighted switch must be used.

[Dallasrules]

My 2011 Vista 36D came with a second switch in the bathroom.