Power with battery dead

[Trthomp2p]

I just got the adventure last night. When I got it home I plugged it in to my house outlet. I got the power to the wall outlets and microwave nothing else. He told me the battery's need charged If not replaced. I went to charge them and noticed one of the 3 is not connected to anything.

Questions are
Do you have to have the battery's to power everything in the RV?
How does this 3rd battery connect. (It's the battery on the far left).
I am new to this. Any advice would be great.

[creativepart]

Hi and welcome!

Sounds like you haven’t turned on the House battery’s disconnect switch. But it’s pretty difficult to tell based on your description of the issue.

What year and model Adventurer do you have? That kind of basic info is needed for us to help you. There are lots of different Adventurers with lots of different battery setups. Helps us by telling us which one you have.

FYI… it’s Adventurer

[BobC]

You drove it home so your starting battery works. I suspect that the seller's comment that the batteries needed recharging or replacement means that they need replacement.

In addition to identifying your year and model, we need to know what the battery types and voltage are for each battery and it's location. You'll have a 12V, starting battery, likely located on the far right and not connected to any of the other two batteries. You probably have two house batteries, one in the middle and the other on the far left. Knowing your year and model will confirm if this is the case.

This is where it gets complicated. In its stock configuration, both house batteries would be 12V batteries, originally connected to each other in parallel (+ to +, - to -) in order to provide 12V. A prior owner might have replaced these with two 6V batteries connected to each other in series (+ to -, - to +).

We don't want you to start reconnecting anything until this is sorted out so, before we go any further, we need to know what voltage these are and how they're wired or not wired.

Knowing your year and model won't tell us this, due to the possibility of a modification. You'll need to read the info off the batteries (including the date code, if visible). A photo showing all three batteries would be invaluable to us.

If you have a multimeter, take voltage readings of each of the three batteries. If you don't have one, a cheap one from Harbor Freight will suffice. You'll use it often in the future:

https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html


While you're at it, you might want to create a signature block similar to mine and creativepart's so we'll always know the specifics of your MH. You can do this via the User CP in the toolbar. It's also nice to include at least a general location in your profile since the answers to some of your future questions may be dependent on your weather conditions, etc.

[powercat_ras]

You should have a panel with a coach battery and chassis battery disconnect switch right inside the door above the entry steps. You want to see green led glowing on both switches this indicates you have battery voltage present on coach battery and/or chassis battery systems.

When you have the RV plugged into shore power or running on generator there is a unit called converter-charger that takes AC power and makes DC power. This will put 12 volt power on the coach 12 volt system even if the door coach switch is OFF. The door coach switch must be ON for the converter-charger to charge the coach batteries. The door coach switch must be ON for the chassis alternator to charge the coach batteries when you are driving the RV.

Try pushing the coach rocker to ON and then after a few hours unplug the RV from AC power and see if you still get the green LED on the coach rocker switch. You should also be able to use the battery check switch on the OnePlace control panel to roughly see the current battery condition. If the kind with 4 LED you should see 3 LED with coach unplugged and 4 LED with coach plugged in or generator running.

You can read DC voltage on the accessory 12 volt outlet by the dinette or in front of the passenger seat beneath the desk to get a more detailed reading. Fully charged batteries will read 12.6 volts, with coach plugged in you should read 13 or more volts indicating the converter charger is charging. Once charged to 12.6 you can leave coach unplugged for a day and read the voltage again you should still have 12.3 or 12.4 if the batteries are in at least fair condition.

You will want to go thru the entire coach including basement compartments to make sure all lights and fans are off to do the "unplugged for a day" test. This is less critical if yours is a newer unit with LED lighting.

[BobC]

Even if it works after activating the coach (or house) battery disconnect switch, there are still problems. On my 2002 Itasca (same as 2002 Adventurer), there's only one disconnect switch, the coach/house disconnect switch, which is confusingly labeled "Aux Battery".

[Trthomp2p]

There are 3 batteries. 2 house batteries on center and left both on 12.75 volt meter.these are new from advanced auto to day. The other is the crank battery 13.47 volts on meter. It's old but still cranks.
All of the batteries are 12 volts.
Crank is wired alone. House batteries are wired positive to positive and negative to negative. One house battery has short wires connected to second house batter.
My VIN Number is. 1GBL3P7J8V3310125.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Trthomp2p

There are 3 batteries. 2 house batteries on center and left both on 12.75 volt meter.these are new from advanced auto to day. The other is the crank battery 13.47 volts on meter. It's old but still cranks.
All of the batteries are 12 volts.
Crank is wired alone. House batteries are wired positive to positive and negative to negative. One house battery has short wires connected to second house batter.
My VIN Number is. 1GBL3P7J8V3310125.

You're in good shape battery-wise. You've confirmed that the two 12V house batteries are connected in parallel - great. Now, the black and red cables from your MH should be connected to either the + and - terminals of one battery, or, better yet, to the + of one and the - of the other:

https://thecampingnerd.com/how-to-wi...-batteries-rv/

That should feed 12V to your rig, operating your lights, etc. if the Aux Battery switch (house disconnect switch) mentioned by Randy is "on". Your operators manual should detail this, most likely in the Driving Your Motorhome section. You should hear an audible click as you turn it on and off since it activates a relay. If you don't hear anything, the switch or relay may be defective or it might be disconnected. If you don't have an operators manual, you can view/download it at:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...erator-manuals

Your VIN number relates to the chassis your MH is built on and doesn't give us info on the year/model of your MH. It would tell us if it's a Ford, Workhorse etc., but not whether it's an Adventurer or another model. It also could be dated a year or so earlier than your MH. Winnebago buys the chassis from the chassis manufacturer and then builds different models on the same type chassis. Depending on the timing of Winnebago's build and inventory, a 2010 Adventurer might have a 2009 chassis.

We need you ID your MH like I identified mine with the year, model, including the floor plan, and your chassis info. The chassis info isn't pertinent to your current issue but it might be for others that crop up.

[creativepart]

Bob, I ran the vin number on a vin decoder and got a number of errors, but it was enough to see the chassis was a 1997 Chevy vin.

Still need year, model and floor plan for the motorhome. But it's likely a '97 or '98 Adventurer. Guessing it's a 1998 there were 7 different models that year but only 4 on the Workhorse Chevy chassis: 30WQ, 32WQ. 34WA, 35WP. So, it could be any one of those four versions.

[Trthomp2p]

1997 winnibago adventurer chevrolet light duty P model chassis

[BobC]

Originally Posted by Trthomp2p

1997 winnibago adventurer chevrolet light duty P model chassis

You're getting close but there are 9 floor plans several chassis, none of which obviously match up to your description. I was thinking the P may indicate a 34WK-P, but that has a Freightliner Diesel chassis, not a Chevrolet. You'll see that, for the floor plans that potentially have a Chevrolet chassis, there are two basic options, and one "Engine Exchange" option.



The entire brochure can be found here. You can page through it for diagrams of the various floor plans:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Imag...nturer-bro.pdf

I know this is confusing, especially to new owners, but you only have to figure it out once. Hopefully you have an owners manual for your chassis/engine. Otherwise someone more knowledgeable than me can point you in the right direction.

[Trthomp2p]

457 7.4 lt Model. wcg32wq vortex 7400 v8 sfi 290 hp. L29. I have the owners manual but this is all it said. We have turned this thing inside out and can not find the disconnect switch anywhere. All the outlets work but no ac, fridge or lights at all. There has to be something we have missed.

[powercat_ras]

Look on the wall next to the driver's seat. There should be 2 nameplates there, one for the chassis and another for the RV. The year and model should be on the RV.

FYI sharing your VIN online can lead to identity theft, depending on your state someone may be able to look you up from your vehicle VIN. It is low risk but in the future I suggest you change the last 5 digits of your VIN to something like 00999.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by powercat_ras

Look on the wall next to the driver's seat. There should be 2 nameplates there, one for the chassis and another for the RV. The year and model should be on the RV.

FYI sharing your VIN online can lead to identity theft, depending on your state someone may be able to look you up from your vehicle VIN. It is low risk but in the future I suggest you change the last 5 digits of your VIN to something like 00999.

Except in very specific circumstances, the VIN isn't necessary for us but can be valuable in the case of some specific issues involving the drive train, etc.

The 1997 operator manual describes the function of the Aux Battery switch but not its location. The earliest manual I could find showing the location is the 2000 manual on pages 2-13 and 2-14. It shows it on the left side of the footwell, which is the most common and convenient location:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...Adventurer.pdf

If it's not there, the next logical location is somewhere on the dash. If nothing else, there's a photo of what to look for on page 2-14 of the 2000 manual.

[creativepart]

Ok, now we know… it’s a 1997 Winnebago Adventurer 32WQ on a Workhorse chassis with the 7.4L Chevy V8.

With that info I found this diagram in the Operator’s Manual.

Number 3 in this diagram is the Auxiliary Battery Switch. It needs to be on.

[BobC]

Good find. I'd just done a word search but it didn't pick up the diagram label. I knew it had to be on the dash if it wasn't in the footwell. Hopefully turning it on will fix everything. The footwell is a much better location as Winnebago figured out by the 2000 model year.

Now the OP can set up his signature block with the information on his MH.

[tderonne]

The converter should power all the 12 volt systems even with the battery disconnect off. The batteries just won't charge from the converter.

Need to check the converter output and work from there.

1997 Adventurer/Suncruiser G32WQ Body Wiring Diagram

[tim myers]

Originally Posted by tderonne

The converter should power all the 12 volt systems even with the battery disconnect off. The batteries just won't charge from the converter.

Need to check the converter output and work from there.

1997 Adventurer/Suncruiser G32WQ Body Wiring Diagram

True This, at least that works on mine as well.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by tim myers

True This, at least that works on mine as well.

Keep in mind that a 1997 can be drastically different from newer models. So far I haven't found anything definitive in the operator manual.

The converter most likely has its own fuse and it could be either internal, inside its case, or external, on the outside of the case.

In any case, if it hasn't been upgraded by a prior owner, it should be replaced with a modern converter with multi-stage charger to avoid battery damage. Now's the time to do it while your batteries are new. It's a pretty straight forward job but you need to be careful to make sure that all the wires are properly connected. In my 2000, some were faded so badly I had to use a multimeter to sort them out. It's best to remove the old converter from its mounting with the wiring intact and move one wire at a time to the new one, double checking the terminal names. Alternatively you could remove one wire at a time, carefully labeling it as to its designation. I made a mistake and switched the DC output +/- wires and blew the onboard fuse. Fortunately the only other damage was the AC/Heater thermostat fuse.

Here's what I used to replace mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Page 2 of the wiring installation diagram shows the receptacle for the converter under the stove. The converter will be a close by metal box:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...997/122306.pdf

[tim myers]

That also is true, mine is a 2007.

[tderonne]

Originally Posted by BobC

Keep in mind that a 1997 can be drastically different from newer models. So far I haven't found anything definitive in the operator manual.

The diagram I posted the link to confirms the converter is wired directly to the power distribution center. And that the battery cutoff only isolates the battery.