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Old 02-16-2023, 05:02 PM   #21
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It's quite possible that the converter is defective, especially if it's the original @ 26 years old.
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Old 02-16-2023, 05:15 PM   #22
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GM P-chassis service manuals are found in this unsorted manuals and ads library. Yes you must read every line on every page to find P-manuals..

Ads, Documentation, Brochures/Schematics - Forum
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Old 02-16-2023, 06:13 PM   #23
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Model number for the 1997 winnebago adventurer light duty is WCG32WQ. The switch is on the fuse box under the dash panel. Lol. I got the DC power going.
Everything is working so far.
I am trying to get the water pump primed and water running. I have filled the tank up and found the switch on the control board .
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Old 02-16-2023, 07:01 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Trthomp2p View Post
Model number for the 1997 winnebago adventurer light duty is WCG32WQ. The switch is on the fuse box under the dash panel. Lol. I got the DC power going.
Everything is working so far.
I am trying to get the water pump primed and water running. I have filled the tank up and found the switch on the control board .
So this brings up a question? If the switch is under the dash and hard to find, what is on the third switch from the top on the left side of the dash where all the info and drawings say to find it?

Life is much harder to figure if we don't read the directions!
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Old 02-16-2023, 07:10 PM   #25
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The switch on the left 3rd down is the switch to turn on dc power but if it does not work open the dash and on the right back of the fuse box is a white button push it and the 3rd switch will work. Lol
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Old 02-16-2023, 08:11 PM   #26
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Now that the switch is fixed, you need to make sure the batteries are getting a charging voltage from your converter. It should be getting something close to 13.8V measured at the battery. If not:

1. The 110V AC breaker protecting its outlet may be tripped.

2. It's onboard fuse may be blown.

3. It may not be connected to your batteries.

Note that, if it's a breaker or fuse, it might trip or blow again if there's an ongoing issue.

https://www.cruiseamerica.com/rv-adv...nverter-is-bad
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Old 02-16-2023, 08:21 PM   #27
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Now that the switch is fixed, you need to make sure the batteries are getting a charging voltage from your converter. It should be getting something close to 13.8V measured at the battery. If not:

1. The 110V AC breaker protecting its outlet may be tripped.

2. It's onboard fuse may be blown.

3. It may not be connected to your batteries.

Note that, if it's a breaker or fuse, it might trip or blow again if there's an ongoing issue.

https://www.cruiseamerica.com/rv-adv...nverter-is-bad


Do I check it on the battery terminals or on a wire?
Do you know how to prime the water pump?
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Old 02-16-2023, 10:09 PM   #28
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Do you know how to prime the water pump?
The water pump is usually self-priming. However, what water pump is on your 1997 motorhome is kind of unknown. On things like this the best thing to do is to find the model number and manufacturer of the pump and research that particular pump, how it works, any rebuild kits/parts, etc.
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Old 02-16-2023, 10:30 PM   #29
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Do I check it on the battery terminals or on a wire?
Check it at the battery terminals. It looks like I was mistaken by quoting 13.8V. This article quotes many older converters as operating at 13.2V:

https://www.rv.com/archive/power-up/

The purpose of this test isn't to see if your converter is working to any specified spec, just to see if it's supplying a charging voltage at all. Unless it's a new unit, you're going to want to replace it in any case.

If there's no increase in voltage, you'll want to take a reading at the converter's DC output terminals. If there's none, it's either dead or not operating due to a breaker of fuse. If there is a charging voltage at it's terminals but not at the battery you'll need to trace the wires from the output terminals. Wires rarely fail in the middle of a run so, in the absence of a mid-run connector, the failure i likely at the battery end. I'm not sure if the - output terminal is connected to a negative battery terminal or to another ground connection, either direct to the MH's frame or to a negative bus bar. Likewise, the + output terminal could be connected either to a + battery terminal or a positive bus bar. If you can decipher the wiring diagram, you should be able to sort this out.
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Old 02-17-2023, 08:12 AM   #30
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One of the big things about workling with electricity is to know what is dangerous. It sounds really bad to direct you to touch anything when you do not know a switch from a breaker!
Again I would offer the suggestion to read the book for hints on how not to kill yourself!
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Old 02-17-2023, 03:31 PM   #31
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I ha e a leak out side in the service compartment. There is a blue tank round and about 10 inches long. On top is a black round part that has water lines coming into and out the other side. Between the top and bottom of the blue and black lid(maybe) it is poring water out. Do any of you know what this is for. There is a part in the sink that looks like a hot water facet with a bar to open and close the line. I don't know if this go's with it or not.
Thanks
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Old 02-17-2023, 07:30 PM   #32
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The water pump is usually self-priming. However, what water pump is on your 1997 motorhome is kind of unknown. On things like this the best thing to do is to find the model number and manufacturer of the pump and research that particular pump, how it works, any rebuild kits/parts, etc.

What many new owners do not know is, the water pump is self-priming only if a faucet is opened to allow air to escape. Water pumps are not air compressors.
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Old 02-18-2023, 09:28 AM   #33
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With water pouring out, the pump priming is not a big factor yet!

Does the mystery item look like this?

Sounds like bad gasket or freeze damage???

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Old 02-18-2023, 09:57 AM   #34
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I ha e a leak out side in the service compartment. There is a blue tank round and about 10 inches long. On top is a black round part that has water lines coming into and out the other side. Between the top and bottom of the blue and black lid(maybe) it is poring water out. Do any of you know what this is for. There is a part in the sink that looks like a hot water facet with a bar to open and close the line. I don't know if this go's with it or not.
Thanks
A photo is worth a thousand words.
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Old 02-18-2023, 10:25 AM   #35
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Water filter?
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Old 02-18-2023, 12:09 PM   #36
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Water filter?
This seems like a better guess than what I suggested. Depending on options ordered for the RV, there is a "purifier" listed!
If the color matches and location matches, I would go with being a filter!

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Top view first with faucet at left and small spout for purified water at center.
Then looking from side, it looks like they turned the drawing upside down with the faucets at bottom instead of top as we might think of them?

Maybe this is what they have? But it also shows under the sink instead of in a wet bay, so maybe something added over the years that doesn't show on OEM??
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Old 02-18-2023, 12:59 PM   #37
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If it's a filter, it might be an easy fix. It's easy to get things cross threaded, not tight enough, or have the gasket fail. It's also time to change the filter cartridge. You'll have several cartridge options ranging from taste and odor to taste, odor and particulates to higher cost filters that filter out microbes and contaminants.

A trick I learned from an Air Force aircraft mechanic to make sure something isn't cross threaded (including nuts and bolts, oil filters and pretty much anything with threads) is to turn the part being "screwed on" counter-clockwise until you feel it "sit in" before turning it clockwise to tighten. Of course, if it has left-hand threads (uncommon), things will be reversed.

An inexpensive filter wrench is a great help, but make sure the top of the unit is securely mounted. You may need to hold on to the top to make sure it isn't over-torqued which can cause leaks by messing with the gasket. I tighten mine a bit, pressurize it, look for leaks and, if it's leaking tighten it a bit more until it stops leaking. If it doesn't stop, depressurize it and try again, making sure the gasket is OK. The threads are pretty large and robust so they rarely get damaged. Here's one, hopefully it's the right size:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-1-in-...RNCH/202801222

If you can't find the right size, a strap wrench should work:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...wrench%7D%3Aqr
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