Lithium Install Questions 2017 View 24G

YTDave · 10-26-2023, 02:34 AM

I realize and appreciate that this subject has been battered around extensively, but...
I have a 2017 Winnebago View 24G. It has a 100 watt solar panel and a Zamp ZS-30A charge controller. There’s a PD9245C Converter/Charger that apparently looks after a couple of 6 Volt deep cycle batteries. I want to ditch the deep cycle 6 volt batteries and install a couple of LiFePO4 batteries. I do not want to have these two Lithium batteries being charged by the vehicle’s alternator because I don’t have the skills or knowledge needed to wire in a DC-DC charger. Between having a PD9145ALV Converter/Charger to charge the Lithium batteries when I’m on shore power (which is most of the time) and the solar panel, I suspect I’ll be fine without having to spend time, money and a great deal of frustration trying to do the DC-DC project. With that in mind, I simply want to disconnect whatever it is that causes my alternator to charge the house batteries that are living under the stairs. Anyone out there want to take a stab at trying to explain what it is that I’m supposed to do in order to make that happen? The idea of setting my RV on fire is just not all that appealing to me at this time. Thank you in advance for your guidance and wisdom…

**creativepart** · 10-26-2023, 08:17 AM

If you don’t have the diy experience to install a DC2DC charger I’m not sure how you can handle the work necessary to remove the alternator charging. But essentially, you have a battery isolator/ latching solenoid. It controls when the house and chassis batteries are connected together and it does so when the engine is running to charge both batteries at the same time.

On my motorhome I was able to remove the solenoid entirely to keep the alternator from charging the house batteries but still charge the chassis battery.

The View’s electrical system is different from mine, so I can’t provide any specific detail on the process you need to follow, but I’d guess plenty of other View owners have tackled this process. Hopefully, one of them will come along and chime in.

YTDave · 10-26-2023, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

If you don’t have the diy experience to install a DC2DC charger I’m not sure how you can handle the work necessary to remove the alternator charging. But essentially, you have a battery isolator/ latching solenoid. It controls when the house and chassis batteries are connected together and it does so when the engine is running to charge both batteries at the same time.

On my motorhome I was able to remove the solenoid entirely to keep the alternator from charging the house batteries but still charge the chassis battery.

The View’s electrical system is different from mine, so I can’t provide any specific detail on the process you need to follow, but I’d guess plenty of other View owners have tackled this process. Hopefully, one of them will come along and chime in.

In my message I provided specifics about my RV with the assumption that someone with a similar unit would reply by suggesting something like....

Under the stair (in the battery box) there's a bus bar and a connector between two terminals. Remove the connector and that'll take care of that".

I just don't want to get involved in a wiring diagram that looks like a road map to Vietnam. A photo, a hand drawn diagram, a detailed explanation...anybody?

Thanks Creativepart, I appreciate the speedy response, opinion and story!

**creativepart** · 10-26-2023, 09:50 AM

Here's a link to a member that recently installed Lithium batteries in his Navion. And he has a couple of YouTube videos, aslo.

https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...um-367327.html

I've watched the videos a little while ago and don't recall if he covers this alternator connections. If you you could ask him for more details in that thread.

**creativepart** · 10-26-2023, 10:05 AM

I did a search around YouTube for Lithium installs on View/Navion. There are lots but not much on the latching solenoid.

I did find that it's under the driver's seat, just lift the seat vinyl panel hanging down on the side of the seat and you'll see the location of the battery issolator.

Here's a video of a guy that did this but in a pretty unique way. It may not be what you want to do, but it will show you some of the mechanisms involved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA0MhIod4_Y

electric · 10-26-2023, 03:46 PM

His next video explains that stock alternator charging is not a problem with Lithium batteries as many people believe. You can keep your alternator charging as is.

YTDave · 10-26-2023, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by electric

His next video explains that stock alternator charging is not a problem with Lithium batteries as many people believe. You can keep your alternator charging as is.

Do you have a link to his next video? I can't seem to find the video that you're referring to... Thanks.

electric · 10-26-2023, 04:58 PM

https://youtu.be/KXG7-EegNV0?si=1d2AwItrmdGFja1d

bigb · 10-26-2023, 06:45 PM

If you wanted to stop the alternator from charging the house batteries all you need to do is remove and insulate a single wire. the one that triggers the isolation solenoid while the engine is running. There are 2 small wires on the same terminal of the solenoid, one is to close the relay while the engine is running and the other is to close it with the boost switch, just remove the one from the engine so you still have your boost switch function. However, as mentioned, with the 220 amp alternator in the Sprinter you may not need to do anything.
I am going thru the same change as you right now and I was planning on one of the large 200ah LiFePO4 batteries because it fits my battery tray under the steps, check your dimensions before ordering 2 100ah units as your tray might be the same as mine being a Winnebago on a Sprinter, 22" if I recall.
I am considering a DC-DC charger just to have the increased voltage to charge the Li since the voltage should remain higher than for standard lead charging. The DC-DC charger simply goes in line with your charge wire along with a chassis ground, and some have a trigger wire that powers up the charger when you start the engine. But as you mentioned you should be fine as you already have 2 ways to top them off.

My last idea was to simply get a single 100ah battery as we don't camp off grid and I don't think we'd re-coup the investment of 200ah bank, it would age out long before we got the cycles out of it to pay for it. There are LiFePO4 100ah batteries out there for $229 now. Of course if you camp and charge/discharge in temperature extremes you'll want units with heat and cool cutoffs to protect the batteries.

OK I'm off to watch those videos CP and electric just posted.

bigb · 10-26-2023, 07:27 PM

Good stuff in those videos. Here's another one with a View/Navion install without a DC-DC charger and using the single 200ah battery

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viK8a9Nd2KI&t=1085s

bigb · 10-26-2023, 07:28 PM

And this is the brand I'm considering:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e--zPavv2z0

YTDave · 10-26-2023, 09:32 PM

Thanks very much, that's a very interesting video.

YTDave · 10-26-2023, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigb

If you wanted to stop the alternator from charging the house batteries all you need to do is remove and insulate a single wire. the one that triggers the isolation solenoid while the engine is running. There are 2 small wires on the same terminal of the solenoid, one is to close the relay while the engine is running and the other is to close it with the boost switch, just remove the one from the engine so you still have your boost switch function. However, as mentioned, with the 220 amp alternator in the Sprinter you may not need to do anything.
I am going thru the same change as you right now and I was planning on one of the large 200ah LiFePO4 batteries because it fits my battery tray under the steps, check your dimensions before ordering 2 100ah units as your tray might be the same as mine being a Winnebago on a Sprinter, 22" if I recall.
I am considering a DC-DC charger just to have the increased voltage to charge the Li since the voltage should remain higher than for standard lead charging. The DC-DC charger simply goes in line with your charge wire along with a chassis ground, and some have a trigger wire that powers up the charger when you start the engine. But as you mentioned you should be fine as you already have 2 ways to top them off.

My last idea was to simply get a single 100ah battery as we don't camp off grid and I don't think we'd re-coup the investment of 200ah bank, it would age out long before we got the cycles out of it to pay for it. There are LiFePO4 100ah batteries out there for $229 now. Of course if you camp and charge/discharge in temperature extremes you'll want units with heat and cool cutoffs to protect the batteries.

OK I'm off to watch those videos CP and electric just posted.

Boost switch? What does that do for a living? Ron's video was very interesting. He's a pretty observant guy with respect to the Citroen alternator etc. When I look at that solenoid under the passenger seat, it seems to me that I should be able to simply disconnect a wire from that thing to keep current from passing through to the house batteries from the alternator. But, the Coach Battery switch is also in there and I don't know how that factors in the equation.

Thanks bigb!

YTDave · 10-27-2023, 02:26 PM

Anyone have an opinion or a comment on this? These wires are connected to the back of the PD9245C converter/charger. I always thought that ground would be a black wire and red would be the positive side...

disregard....I can't get the photo to load.

**creativepart** · 10-27-2023, 03:03 PM

No... positive isn't always red and negative always black, except on your battery cables.

Winnebago wires are Yellow for positive and white for negative.

But who knows what color Mercedes uses or other vendors.

Photos are needed. Do you know how to upload photos to your post?

Here's a link to the instructions:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3773760

YTDave · 10-27-2023, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by creativepart

No... positive isn't always red and negative always black, except on your battery cables.

Winnebago wires are Yellow for positive and white for negative.

But who knows what color Mercedes uses or other vendors.

Photos are needed. Do you know how to upload photos to your post?

Here's a link to the instructions:
https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...ml#post3773760

Yeah well, adding a photo was a different problem. When I selected that from the icon above and did as I was directed, nothing happened. But, now that you've sent instructions, I'll try that. Thanks very kindly...

YTDave · 10-27-2023, 04:51 PM

Here's a picture of the PD9245C...

YTDave · 10-27-2023, 05:00 PM

I was told by the seller that there were two 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in parallel under the step. Given that the motorhome is a 2018, I suspected that they were probably due to be changed. Not to mention that I couldn't see what kind of batteries they were. Today, I had a peek at there's two 12 volt Napa (original) batteries in there. Wired in series of course... Here's what that mess of wires looks like.

bigb · 10-27-2023, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YTDave

I was told by the seller that there were two 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in parallel under the step. Given that the motorhome is a 2018, I suspected that they were probably due to be changed. Not to mention that I couldn't see what kind of batteries they were. Today, I had a peek at there's two 12 volt Napa (original) batteries in there. Wired in series of course... Here's what that mess of wires looks like.

Those are actually wired in parallel and it's good that they are or else you would get 24 volts!

bigb · 10-27-2023, 06:34 PM

The boost switch is on the dash and it allows you to temporarily connect the house batteries to the starter battery for a "boost" if your starter battery goes dead. If your RV is not equipped then you will only have one of the small wires in the positive coil terminal of your battery isolation solenoid instead of two.

There is no need to do anything with the coach battery disconnect switch or it's latching relay.