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Old 01-29-2021, 05:39 PM   #1
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Itasca horizon no AC in coach

Ok well I moved my 2003 39qd Itasca horizon the other day and since then I have no AC.
I immediately went to the breakers and none were tripped. So I trouble shot the transfer switch thinking it was bad as itís a 17 year old class A.
No bueno.
All is good there and traced it next to the main panel inside the rear bedroom and found power was at that panel.
I then went to the sub panel next to it and itís dead as a door nail.
I cannot see where the wires from the main panel go into the sub panel as it goes first under the floor and then who knows where.
I could really use forum knowledge and support on this one.
Anyone had a similar problem?
First pic is the main panel and second is the sub that has no power.
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Old 01-29-2021, 06:35 PM   #2
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Check the CB on the inverter.

Do you have the wiring diagram?
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:18 PM   #3
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Yes cb on inverter is good, and yes I have the wiring schematic but it does not show exactly how the wires are run from the main to the sub panel.
The wire from the main disappears under the floor of the bed and I canít trace from there
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Old 01-29-2021, 07:29 PM   #4
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Last month, with the help of others on this forum, I was able to construct several 12V and 120V power grids for my 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD.

These should help you know where to look next.

Suggestions:

* Do you have power running the generator?

* Do you have 120V to both sides of your Main Breaker panel.

* Your Inteletec 620 should not be the problem unless you are looking for power on the appliances it "sheds". (On my RV these are the gas-refrigerator outlet, water heater, and vacuum.)

* Dimensions Inverters are very solid, but I hear people find the charger side goes out from time-to-time, but I think they just don't know were to get it repaired... mostly because everyone wants to "upsell" them into a new inverter, and a lot of owner are looking for an excuse (for whatever reason) to spend big bucks and upgrade to a PSW inverter. ...Personally, I think the Dimensions Quasi-sine Inverter is just fine and gets the job done without hurting your AC loads (including residential refrigerator or
TV or computer or CPAP.)

==> Last summer a TV repair shop also fixed my inverter Charger by replacing blown Thermistors... caused by connecting to park power supply with a neutral problem.

==> And at the same time I replaced my Dimensions Temperature sensor. Note: This lead gets connected to the "negative" battery post, not the positive!!!

...but I digress.

==> First be sure both L1 and L2 are receiving power. ...Try the 50A first... then 30A dog-bone... then run the generator. If you don't have power on both legs out of the transfer switch, then I would bet your problem is in your Transfer Switch relays.

==> For some reason, if you have power to your Main Panel, but not to your Inverter-Subpanel, then your bottle neck is in your 30A circuit breaker, the inverter transfer switch, or maybe your inverter is not working because that 300A fuse next to your house battery bank (right sidewall) is bad/rusty?

Looking forward to knowing what fix works for you!
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:05 PM   #5
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Thanks for the insight, I’ll check tomorrow
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:26 PM   #6
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Let's make sure we are speaking the same and there is no AC power found on the inverter panel? Not peaking there is not Air Conditioner?
If it is no power to anything after main load center, I suggest checking first that power is actually getting through the breakers at that load center by putting the probe on the wire itself if there is a bit of metal showing where it is tied to the breaker. There should be 110 AC on all the wires at the bottom of each breaker. If not getting power to the wire itself leaving the panel, check the breaker is actually not tripped by flipping off and on and then also look for any loose wires. I suggest probe on the wire itself to avoid things like corroded or open connections on the breaker as well as defective breakers.

Looking at the picture, I may be getting a slanted view but the red main is actually on the 50 amp there, not as it might seem in the picture? Red to a 50 and black to another 50, right?

I would not suspect a wire open as it is large wire and goes pretty direct from load center to inverter panel to feed most of your RV, with the exception of a few like air cond., water heater, washer, etc.

If there is power leaving the load center on the ten gauge at the 30 amp at the load center but not finding it on the thirty amp at the inverter panel, I would suspect the switch on the inverter.

click this drawing snip for a better view!
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:29 PM   #7
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Using the print above.

That "switch" are relay contacts of the ATS in the inverter. They do fail, there may be fuses in the inverter.

A work around is to wire nut the #10 in/out wire at the inverter.

Do you have 120V AC power from the inverter with shore power disconnected?
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Old 01-29-2021, 08:34 PM   #8
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I’m thinking the inverter at this point. Will confirm tomorrow and get back to this thread.
Thank you everyone
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Old 01-29-2021, 10:58 PM   #9
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...And don't forget to check the 30A breaker located on the front face of the Dimensions Inverter?

I also attached a manual to my Dimensions 2000W Iverter/Charger (Model# 12X20B3R4T with 100A Charger). I'm betting you have the same inverter. TBD?
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:43 PM   #10
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Ok, here is what I know.
I did have a 300amp breaker in the battery area that was broken and no continuity.
I also had a mouse living under the inverter but no visible damage seen in wires at the inverter.
I bypassed the breaker and still no AC( alternating current) not to be confused with air conditioning.
I have 120 volts coming into the inverter but no AC coming out.
Will check to make sure I have 12 volts going into inverter.
That’s it for now.
Was really hoping the CB was the problem but appears it’s not. Ordered new one on Amazon and will be here tomorrow.
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:59 PM   #11
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More info

So can I jumper the inverter to determine if the inverter is bad?
Or how can I diagnose the inverter?
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:19 PM   #12
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Ok fellas, I bypassed the inverter and I now have ac in the coach.
Looks like a bad inverter....or could the control panel be bad?
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinBlueLine View Post
Ok fellas, I bypassed the inverter and I now have ac in the coach.
Looks like a bad inverter....or could the control panel be bad?
There is a switch in the top left hand corner of the inverter that I mention in the drawing back on post 6. I would certainly want to know that switch was good before changing the whole inverter as it does control the AC going into the inverter.
Certainly not assured this switch is the problem as mice can do weird things and something big enough to blow a 300 amp fuse is likely to be a big charge!

But if there were a mouse trekking across a hot spot in the inverter and made good enough contact to draw 300 amp through that switch, I'm sure it is NOT rated for that much current, so there may be a few obvious things wrong once the cover is pulled.
Ants are semi-famous for doing the dirty work on things!
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:46 PM   #14
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So now you suspect your relay transfer switch that senses AC present to the inverter is not working; or your control module may a problem.

Next you know your 300A fuse blew and the only thing that would do that is a short inside the inverter. (Anyone else know different?)

So take the inverter apart and see what has burned and/or smells! Thermistors stink when the burn up and can be replaced, but I would guess you blew some MOSETS.

If you bypassed your 300A fuse, and your battery cable does not start getting hot, I suppose you can spend some time checking to see if your inverter is putting out AC? ...Or if your charger is working?

* Is this Xantrex an Inverter-Charger or just an inverter?

* Didn't your coach come with a Dimensions Inverter?

* How long have you owned this RV?
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:59 PM   #15
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I have had this coach for 10 years and it is the original inverter and yes it is also a charger..only thing left to do to isolate a issue with the inverter/ charger is to make sure there is 12 volts coming into the unit. If there is then I will check the on off switch.
I removed the cover and all looks well inside and no smells or burnt areas.
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Old 01-31-2021, 10:45 PM   #16
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Good to know nothing smells inside your inverter.

I would guess your inverter control panel "on/off" switch is normally closed, so if it's bad then you can add a jumper to the control wire. However, if you display is working (showing LCD information) then I wouldn't worry about it until you check everything else first.

If you don't want to wait for those fuses to arrive, why not just bypass your 300A fuse by just connecting your positive battery cables together? Then turn on the inverter for 10 seconds...and monitor the cable heat for 1 minute; so you can see if something is shorted.

* A small current short to ground will take time to burnout that 300A fuse, but a high current sort will blow that fuse pretty quick. Still I would think you would feel the battery cable heating up before the fuse will blow. IDK?

==> Waiting for your fuse to arrive is a safer bet.

I ordered a 300A fuse about 1 month about to keep as a back-up. However, I have never lost a AN-300A fuse for no good reason. So even if you install a new fuse, treat those battery welding cables with respect.
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Old 02-01-2021, 09:01 AM   #17
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When in doubt----TEST first!
If there is a serious short somewhere it will show up by testing for a short! It may have been something as simple as mice chewing the insulation off the cable, so adding to the damage by connecting power back is not the way I would go. Grommets wear through and there may be a place where a cable is rubbed bare in an opening that you can't see, so a quick test is easy compared to any other plan.

I believe this is the correct manual for your unit and it does seem to have a troubleshooting section on page 27, so that would be my next step once I checked thw input wiring:
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Dis...ner_manual.pdf
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