1984 Winni Warrior Electrical question.

[stevep]

We bought a 1984 Winnebago Warrior last summer. I have not done a lot of camping, other than tents. The man I bought it from was very helpful, but a lot of information in a short time doesn't always get retained well.

My first question. When you stop and have an electrical hookup, is there some place inside you switch from DC to AC, so you can operate the outlets, refrigerator and air conditioner, etc? I see some switches on the walls by the door and in the back bedroom. I want to be careful I don't mess things up. There is not generator. I believe it was removed many years ago.

There will probably be more questions, but lets start with this one.

Thanks.
Steve

[Goodspike]

If you can edit your title, putting 1984 Warrior might help get better responses.

[Morich]

No, there will be AC powered and DC powered and each will have a specific plug to avoid plugging a 12VDc item into a 110AC outlet.
A little "basic training" may help.
Many RV have three electrical systems with some thing tying "some" of those three systems together at specific times. I find it much easier to thing of only one system at a times, rather than the total which can blow your mind!
Let's start with what you make find used to seeing, the chassis system like a car or truck has. One or more batteries which start the engine, get charged off the engine and run horn, wipers, lights that a car has. Fuses, often under the hood, just like a car.
Second is a 12VDC system with batteries that are used to power 12 VDC items mostly inside like like, furnace, water pump but can run things like outside radios, etc. This system gets charged off the generator when you start it or when you are plugged in. But where it begins to get messy is that there are times when these are connected together so that both sets of batteries charge when driving and this is automatic using solenoids and relays, but it can also be done like if your start battery is run down, there is often an Aux or boost switch on the dash that ties the two batteries together to give you a form of "jumper cable" to get going. This one only works while you are holding the button!
Three is the 110AC system that comes from the cord plugged in to run the Air conditioner, microwave, and the plugs for hair driers, etc. This system often has a converter (charger?) which does charge the coach batteries while we are plugged in.
Where it can get more confusing is that you may also have an inverter, which is a gizmo using 12VDC battery power to "make" 110 AC so that some of the 110 outlets will work while not plugged in or running the generator. Usually not the high power like Air conditioner or microwave but small stuff like cell phone chargers plugged into regular outlets?
Most of this is automatic and does any needed switching or just doesn't work. Think of it as high power stuff needs plugged in cord, while lower power may have some outlets like near the bed that will charge a cell phone but it is going to use some coach battery to do it and things like the lights are almost always 12VDC off the coach battery. Pump to run water, furnace for heat, lights and things are "portable" for on the road but will eventually go dead when you stop. A_C is more only when plugged in.

[Morich]

For things likely to get messed up for new users, I might guess the batterioes are among the most likely for us to let them go down and that may ruin a pretty good batery. So try to figure out what you need to do when storing the RV or ot used for several months as there are always small "parasitic drains" that use battery even when we thing we have everything turned off. Things like CO detectors, propane detector, can gradually run the coach battery down while clocks, radio and small stuff can run the start battery down. There is likely to be one or more switches to turn offf/disconnect those batteries but do some checking before trusting those to get everything dead. Sometimes folks have added wiring that was not original so be aware and also keep in mind that plugging the RV in may charge the coach bat but not the start if there is not some added item to charge both.
Parts catalog here may be a help to sort out what to call some things:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm Exact model info is often on a label under the drivers side window???
Good luck and enjoy.

[Goodspike]

Originally Posted by Morich

For things likely to get messed up for new users, I might guess the batterioes are among the most likely for us to let them go down and that may ruin a pretty good batery. So try to figure out what you need to do when storing the RV or ot used for several months as there are always small "parasitic drains" that use battery even when we thing we have everything turned off.

My travel trailer might make this easier, but I've taken to just removing the batteries and storing them inside if it's going to be very long between trips (like right now). That way I can keep them charged and charge them again right before a trip. That's really necessary since I store the trailer where there's no power and like to start the refrigerator up late the day before. Basically my trailer overnights before I do.

[BobC]

If you don't have it, here's a link to an owners manual:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/m...ago-Itasca.pdf

This page has some useful links as well:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/owner-tools/service

Note that the wiring and plumbing diagrams only go back to 1990, but they may be of help in sorting things out if your model still exists in 1990.

Also, if you set up a signature with your model/year, etc. similar to mine, you won't have to mention it every time you post. This is done via the User Control Panel (CP) on the menu bar.

Aside from figuring our your systems, your number one priority is making sure your roof is properly sealed to prevent leaks, which can cause catastrophic damage. There are numerous threads on this topic.