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Old 05-03-2023, 10:08 AM   #1
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Cold air from A/C when furnace is on

I turned the furnace on to 71, outside temp was 40. Electric heat and lp heat coming from the floor vents, but cold air was coming from the ceiling vents.

Any suggestions on what the problem might be?
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Old 05-03-2023, 10:20 AM   #2
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In order to help, please provide the year, make, and model of your RV plus the manufacturer and the model number of your furnaces, air conditioners, and heat pumps if any. This is good info to add to your signature as well.
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Old 05-03-2023, 11:55 AM   #3
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2008 Itasca Latitude

It has basement air, Make and model unknown. It has a True Air thermostat. This rig is new to us.
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Old 05-03-2023, 02:01 PM   #4
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On my trailer (completely different set up), the AC Fan will blow even if set to heat if the fan is set to High or Low. Setting it to Auto, only the heater fan runs in heat mode.
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Old 05-03-2023, 02:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimBlu View Post
It has basement air, Make and model unknown. It has a True Air thermostat. This rig is new to us.
No problem with being a new owner of the RV but it is what we might call "new owner syndrome" !
We've all been there but it leaves us not knowing what we don't know!

The problem is that there may be way too many RV made by Winnebago and to get down to looking at the drawings or knowing specifics, we need to know lots of stuff that seems really picky to ask!

From your info we know it is a 2008 Itaska Latitude and in your profile you list as 38 foot. Good so far but then when we look at the drawings, we find there are 37 and 39 foot models and that is the crunch on getting the right ideas of where the ductwork fits and how it might have come loose to leak air from the cold side or outside air into the heated air channels?

Trying not to be picky but it's a common problem and we need some more help if you know it off the top of your head??
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If not known at this point, there should be a label near the driver's seat left side with lots of info you will need over time if not now.
Parts drawings here:
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

There should be a manual with all kinds of info on how to read this label and it will give you tons of help if a time comes when you need parts like brakes, etc as the chassis may not be the same year as the RV part.
Operators manual here, if not on hand:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...08Latitude.pdf

Down on page 1-3 is the whole story on how to sort this info but item 13 is what we are looking for right now as the model number?
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Not trying to make life hard on you, but all of us have gone through the "new" stuff!
Lots of times we can't even find the bathroom for the first few nights!
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
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Old 05-04-2023, 07:31 PM   #6
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Jim, you have the thermostat set to electric heat. With that setting the basement heat pump will try to reach/maintain thermostat set temperature. When the thermostat logic decides the heat pump cannot reach or maintain set temperature, it automatically turns on the LP furnace for assistance.
The solution to this is manually select furnace/gas heat.
The thermostat installation instructions explain what happens and why: https://www.airxcel.com/DesktopModul...thermostat.pdf
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Old 05-04-2023, 08:28 PM   #7
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Sounds like it is on Elec Heat and it is too cold for the Heat Pump to keep up, When the HP is trying to heat and lags behind by 4 degrees the propane furnace comes on with the heat pump, so warm air from the floor vents and cool, not cold air from the ceiling vents.
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Old 05-06-2023, 08:38 PM   #8
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37G
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Old 05-07-2023, 08:15 AM   #9
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Okay, thanks for the info. With that we can look more closely at what you have.

Much of the suggestions above sound correct but it may depend on what options your RV has as not all have the same options, much like when we buy a car. It depends on what the dealer felt would sell best at the time on his lot!

So whether you have a heat pump or not is one thing to question as it may change the way you set the thermostat! There may be a big bag of RV info that we hope they pass along and in that bag there may be something like a single page or two listing specific options on your RV. That is a handy thing to keep and read over to know what we've bought!

If you did not get the owners manual in the bag, we can access that online here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...08Latitude.pdf

For clearing some questions it can help to know where they put things. The parts drawings for your specific RV (without knowing options) is here:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...08/8ipm37g.pdf

It can be a great place to get to know a newer RV as it shows lots of hidden things like where the tanks and plumbing run. That can help on a cold winter day when we wonder about which side may freeze first!
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...08/8ipm37g.pdf

So if we drop down to page 132, we get a look at the LP furnace as it is a stand alone item with totally different ductwork.
That leans toward the cold air coming from the ceiling as being things the above mentioned.
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But then we get into whether you have the heat pump option?
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It is a different set of ducts that feed into the ceiling and either push only cooled air from air condionter or with the heat pump, it can also do some heating. Somewhat limited for really cold weather but it will save propane in more moderate temps.

So if you have the option, maybe a check of how to set up the thermostat is needed, if it seems you are getting it on instead of only the LP furnace???
Or it is possible the controls are not working just as they should??

Best of luck to you! Being new in any place can be a trek!!
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Old 05-08-2023, 06:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimBlu View Post
It has basement air, Make and model unknown. It has a True Air thermostat. This rig is new to us.
My first guess is the compressors may not be running. This is a common problem.



Try this: Set the t-stat 3 degs above the room temperature in the heat mode. When the system comes on watch how much current it pulls at your PCS monitor. When the fan starts it will show about 3 to 5 amps (if I recall correctly for basement air). When the compressor(s) start you will see a spike in current and then a run current of 14 to 26 amps. This is the key. If you don't see these conditions your starter capacitors should be replaced as a starting point. There are several threads on how to do this. It's not that hard but you must be careful because it could be dangerous IF not done correctly.
Hope this helps.
Rick
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