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Old 06-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #1
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Freshwater fill valve leaking & allowing water into tank

I just noticed that the freshwater tank on my 06 Meridian is full to the top and leaking out of the overflow. We are traveling and I usually keep about 1/3 tank of water when going down the road. Apparently, when I connect to a faucet at night, the valve that allows you to either fill the tank or go directly into the coach is leaking and allowing water to fill the tank. I noticed some water on the ground and when I checked the level of the freshwater tank, it was filled to overflowing. This has happened more than once on this trip. Has anyone else had this problem? How do you fix it? Replace the valve?
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:05 AM   #2
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Second possibility , back flow valve in the 12 volt pump can get a little dirt in the valve there and allow the same thing to happen. Valve kits available so you don't have to buy the whole pump.
To check , drain the fresh tank if necessary, take the supply ( from the tank ) hose off the pump, with city pressure hooked up, to see if this is your back feed to the fresh tank.
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Old 06-29-2013, 05:34 AM   #3
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The first thing I would try is to apply pressure to the system by connecting the hose and turning water on. Open a facuet in the coach. Rapidly cycle the fill valve on and off assuring that each time you cycle it it reaches the home position for city water and tank fill. Worked for me while in Alaska.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:38 AM   #4
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I had to replace my fill valve when the water tank was getting filled to overflowing.

If you want to keep your fill valve in good condition, DO NOT turn it on/off when you have city water pressure feeding the coach. If you want to fill the tank, shut off the city supply, then drain the pressure with the Outside Shower faucet.

I have about 75-85 psi at my house hose bibs and that kind of pressure will blow out the valve real fast. When you take apart a leaky valve, you'll see how the rubber gets distorted with pressure and turning it will shear off the dome. My guess is that the valve is only rated at 25 psi for adjusting under pressure.
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #5
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It is usually the rubber seal or 4 pronged seal holder which goes bad. When I need to replace, I buy a straight thru valve and replace just the insides. That way I don't need to mess with the main pipe system. I believe all the different styles use the same insides.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:12 AM   #6
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Here is the link to those valves.

osCommerce

I thought my valve was leaking at one time so I contacted the company to see if just the ball valve can be replaced instead of the entire unit. They said YES even though it is not listed on their web site. I don't know what the cost is to replace just the ball valve from them.

I have done some research for ball valves that would work in the same place moving in the same direction. It's a three-way ball valve, nothing complicated.

I have attached a photo of their old valve size versus the new valve size. It seems due to regulations and cost, they had to reduce the size of the valve used in their unit.

The water system inside most RV's I believe is certified for up to 80 psi or it may be 100 psi according to RVIA ANSI/NFPA 1192 Standard for RVs. I don't remember exactly but you can find out by purchasing your own copy of the standards.

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Old 06-29-2013, 12:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DancinCampers View Post
It is usually the rubber seal or 4 pronged seal holder which goes bad. When I need to replace, I buy a straight thru valve and replace just the insides. That way I don't need to mess with the main pipe system. I believe all the different styles use the same insides.
Spot on!!!

I forgot to add that little nugget which makes the repair real easy.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Here is the link to those valves.

osCommerce

I thought my valve was leaking at one time so I contacted the company to see if just the ball valve can be replaced instead of the entire unit. They said YES even though it is not listed on their web site. I don't know what the cost is to replace just the ball valve from them.

I have done some research for ball valves that would work in the same place moving in the same direction. It's a three-way ball valve, nothing complicated.

I have attached a photo of their old valve size versus the new valve size. It seems due to regulations and cost, they had to reduce the size of the valve used in their unit.

The water system inside most RV's I believe is certified for up to 80 psi or it may be 100 psi according to RVIA ANSI/NFPA 1192 Standard for RVs. I don't remember exactly but you can find out by purchasing your own copy of the standards.

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Winnebago does not use a brass ball valve, which would probably last all of us a lifetme. They use a lower quality plastic/rubber valve that looks something like this:
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:47 PM   #9
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Thanks for the clarification.

Sorry to hear about having one of those little plastic thingy's.

I guess I need to look at the top of the forum first before jumping in.

Normally, I sometimes pickup these threads from the "recent discussions" column to the right.

Sorry about the confusion!

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Old 06-29-2013, 07:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duner View Post
Winnebago does not use a brass ball valve, which would probably last all of us a lifetme. They use a lower quality plastic/rubber valve that looks something like this:
You got it, Duner...that's it exactly! Is that available only thru Winnebago or can you get it at a local parts house?
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #11
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You got it, Duner...that's it exactly! Is that available only thru Winnebago or can you get it at a local parts house?
They're readily available at the rv parts stores.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:01 AM   #12
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My '06 Sightseer had that plastic valve. When it leaked, it was an easy fix: pop the handle off, unscrew the bonnet (nut), pull out the stem and replace an o-ring with a new one. I had an assortment of o-rings for my pressure washer. Whole process took about 10 minutes.
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Old 06-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #13
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Had same problem on 2005 Itasca Horizon. Called Winny service they said the diversion valve was bad, so I replaced it (no simple feat) and the tank still filled up. Another call to Winny said the check valve in the pump was bad and I had to replace the whole pump because it was not servicable...!?? So I went to buy a new pump and the Phoenix area RV parts guy said why don't you just put a check valve on the output line of the pump. He gave me a $15 solution where Winnebago service rep was telling me to replace the pump at $200+ ! So the RV parts guy saved me almost $200.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffro View Post
Had same problem on 2005 Itasca Horizon. Called Winny service they said the diversion valve was bad, so I replaced it (no simple feat) and the tank still filled up. Another call to Winny said the check valve in the pump was bad and I had to replace the whole pump because it was not servicable...!?? So I went to buy a new pump and the Phoenix area RV parts guy said why don't you just put a check valve on the output line of the pump. He gave me a $15 solution where Winnebago service rep was telling me to replace the pump at $200+ ! So the RV parts guy saved me almost $200.
The other easy (and low cost) fix is to pull the pump head off and soak the valve assembly and diaphram in vinegar for a couple of hours or over night. That will dissolve the calcium deposits that builds up over the years of service.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:23 PM   #15
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If it's not one thing it's another.

I was surprised to read that thread because I had just finished replacing my 3 way water valve just like the one shown in thread # 6.
I have to say that it was no pick neck.
My water tank was filling up by it self when the valve was turned on just for city water.
The only way I was able to dismiss the pump as the problem was to turn the city water on and looked with a flash light where the water enters the tank and if my valve was working right water would not be entering the tank (which it was coming in).
I could see water entering the tank when the valve was turned to inside city water. ( not a whole lot but enough to fill the tank over a couple of week if connect to city water)
After I removed the valve I took it to a parts deportment and order another one after the sales man showed me where the valve was letting water bypass into the tank.
It took me two days to disconnect all the different PVC. connections and put them back together again with the new valve.
Wish you luck.
Just a thought.
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:58 AM   #16
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The one question I have is: why would I even suspect the pump as being the culprit when it only fills up when I'm connected to city water...?
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:08 AM   #17
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The output side of the pump is pressurized by city water just like a faucet is. If the internal check valve is leaking, the pump will act like a leaky faucet, and water will get into the tank thru the suction line.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:00 AM   #18
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About 7 weeks ago I replaced the our original Shurflo water pump with a Shurflo Revolution 4008 pump. Old pump was leaking all around head, rebuild kit was a bit pricey, so for extra bucks went with new pump. New pump same footprint as old. Last week we started having the problem stated in this thread. We are watering the gravel under the coach with the water running out the overflo line of the fresh water tank.

We have two inline whole house water filters in series as the city water line enters the coach.

It may be coincidence that the diversion valve now has bad seals, but after reading this thread I suspect the check valve in the new pump has dirt, shavings, etc holding it open. So, methinks I will check my plumbing parts collection for a check valve to add at the output of the pump. If that works, then I will get a new pump under warranty.

Thoughts and analysis appreciated.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:51 AM   #19
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About 7 weeks ago I replaced the our original Shurflo water pump with a Shurflo Revolution 4008 pump. Old pump was leaking all around head, rebuild kit was a bit pricey, so for extra bucks went with new pump. New pump same footprint as old. Last week we started having the problem stated in this thread. We are watering the gravel under the coach with the water running out the overflo line of the fresh water tank.

We have two inline whole house water filters in series as the city water line enters the coach.

It may be coincidence that the diversion valve now has bad seals, but after reading this thread I suspect the check valve in the new pump has dirt, shavings, etc holding it open. So, methinks I will check my plumbing parts collection for a check valve to add at the output of the pump. If that works, then I will get a new pump under warranty.

Thoughts and analysis appreciated.
What is the city water pressure at the coach? If you have a pressure reducer/regulator, maybe it leaks higher pressure when there's no water flow. Anyway, if the pressure is high and you move the City Fill/Water Tank Fill valve you can tear it up real fast and it'll start filling up the water tank.

If you always run filtered water into your fresh water tank, I wouldn't expect debris to cause a 7 wk old pump to leak thru the check valve.
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:04 PM   #20
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What is the city water pressure at the coach? If you have a pressure reducer/regulator, maybe it leaks higher pressure when there's no water flow. Anyway, if the pressure is high and you move the City Fill/Water Tank Fill valve you can tear it up real fast and it'll start filling up the water tank.
Duner, we have a whole house residential water pressure regulator attached at the hydrant or water connection using factory setting, 50 PSI.

Problem fixed. Inserted check valve in series with water pump output. Fresh water tank did not fill. Exchanged bad pump (bad check valve inside) for new pump. Instaled new pump. works fine, Fresh water tank does not fill when on city water. External check valve back in parts drawer.
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