Ticking sound Triton V10 2016 Itasca Sunstar XL 36Y

[RV Sweden]

Hi
I am Winnebago Itasca Sunstar 36Y XL 2016 owner. Located in Sweden Stockhom.
My RV motor start ticking on passenger side.
Is there any one can give mi a advice??
email :
Whatsapp : [personal information removed - contact via Private Message]

[Eagle5]

Greetings RV Sweden,
I would recommend that you isolate from where the ticking is precisely; either with a mechanics stethoscope or a long-handle screwdriver (which is a poor-man's stethoscope.) We would be looking for the following:

1. A low-octane ping in a single combustion chamber due to a build-up of carbon creating a hot-spot (remedy: Higher octane fuel)
2. A leaking or broken spark plug
3. A exhaust manifold leak (could be a broken manifold from cold water being sprayed onto a hot manifold)
4. A bad Cam or Follower (a slightly higher viscosity oil may alleviate the problem for a brief time). These engines should never be run on 5W-20. Use at least 5W-30, or better yet 0W-40. Also, do not let them stay above 4,000 RPM for any extended period of time.
5. A bad ignition coil that is leaking to ground.

Welcome to the forum.
Eagle5

[Decuct CoCo]

my first suspect would be broken exhaust manifold stud/studs causing somewhat of a tapping sound as exhaust escapes between the manifold and head..
very common V10 problem all years

[RV Sweden]

Dear gentleman
Thank you very much for all recomamdation . Now is mines -4C in Sweden I will check and do all your advise and report tou near future .
Thank you very much one more time.
If you come one day Sweden you have my contact info welcome to be my gest.
All the best.

[creativepart]

Just to reconfirm- most common for this engine is an exhaust leak.

If doing some DIY trouble shooting you can remove the engine cover (called the “dog house”) between the driver’s and passenger’s seat to access that part of the engine.

It can be just a leaking gasket issue or worse, broken exhaust studs.

I removed your email and cell number, it’s not safe to post personal info like that on a public forum. The forum has a Private Message system and that should be utilized for personal contact.

[Ray,IN]

In the old days I'd say the heat riser is the cause, but Ford hasn't used heat risers for decades.

[TexasDon]

valves = tick tick tick tick
electrical = snap snap snap ... and you'll prob see light flashes under hood at night

exhaust = puffing sound and you'll see black smudge spots
plug = an obvious miss fire when engine running



Old garden hose makes a fine listening device. Long screwdriver with insulated handle can be used by placing handle in your ear. The short section of garden hose would be my choice.

[Four Seasons]

My vote goes to exhaust manifold leak. If that's the source of the ticking sound, you should address it as soon as possible, before you suffer real damage.

[capnqball]

If you don’t find an exhaust leak you would do well to remove the valve covers to check valve train.

[Bobn1957]

Originally Posted by Four Seasons

My vote goes to exhaust manifold leak. If that's the source of the ticking sound, you should address it as soon as possible, before you suffer real damage.

If you find an exhaust leak it would be a good time to put headers on the vehicle, it provides a power boost and minimizes future problems!

[1237dmctlc]

So saw this and thought it could be helpful at least what could be the problem although this could be worst case. Same year...




https://www.winnieowners.com/forums/...mpaign_9347029

[Americanrascal]

Great info offered here in this thread. As noted earlier I posted a thread about my recent experience. I just went through the dreaded V-10 ticking sound on my 2016 Adventurer 38Q. Immediatly suspected a valve train issue or an exhaust manifold /bolt break issue. It happened during a scheduled trip with a tight time frame when we drove 2500 miles each way coast to coast. I took it to a truck shop in California who said to drive it back home to Georgia (2500 miles) to get it fixed. It was Christmas and that getting someone there to work on it would be difficult and very expensive. Reluctantly I followed his advice.

We made it to Arizona with the ticking sound, then one morning I started the engine and it sounded like the engine was falling apart with loud metal clanging sounds. That lasted 20 seconds or so then all the sounds including the ticking dissapeared and we drove the remaining 2000 miles without any noise or engine problems. I foolishly thought my engine had healed itself.

I pulled the right valve cover myself when I got home and an intake valve cam follower fell out of the engine as soon as I lifted the valve cover off. The lifter for that valve was also missing. Not wanting to see any further damage I had the motorhome towed 100 miles to a Ford commecrial truck center. They confirmed much more damage (the cam was destroyed), but said they could rebuild the valves system on the engine. The service contract folks said no!!! - the engine needed to be replaced if there was any metal in the oil or filter in the lower part of the engine. Sure enough the filter and oil was full of larger metal shavings.

Thus a new engine was installed. Thankfully Ford remanufactured V-10's were in stock and the actual installation only took 2 days. The new engine seems to be doing well.

I sure hope the OP doesn't go through this experience but best to pull the valve cover to make sure. Best of luck!!!

[Eagle5]

When I broke #6 exhaust spring on the 460 in3 in my 1988 F-350, I opted to replace the engine with a re-manufactured Long Block. The re-manufactured 460s are fairly inexpensive (I paid just $2,500 with core) and with installation was about $5,000 total. I am a believer that when something breaks inside the engine, replacing with a new Long Block is the most reliable repair, and in the end, the least expensive option.
Eagle5

[Americanrascal]

I agree. I had an intake spring break on the passenger side valve train a year before . Hindsite is I wish I had changed the entire engine out then, but the service contract folks would only pay for the $7 spring. This year they gave up and decided it was wise to replace the entire engine, especially since both valve trains had failures, the latest version with so much damage.

As I said earlier the V-10 engines spook me. Many folks run them for years without a hiccup but I guess I got a winner with mine. I am a fanatic about oil changes and mainteneance using 5w-30 synthetic every 6 months or 5000 miles. Ford insists I should use 5w20 in the new remanufactured engine, but being in a southern hot state I'm going with 5w-30, a listed option in the manual.

My costs were quite a bit higher, about $7500 for the long block and $10,000 for the labor and supplies.


Fingers crossed on the new engine.