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Old 01-14-2024, 04:36 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2023
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Sunstar 27 Ideas for AV hatch above entrance

Howdy

We have a 20' Sunstar 27PE. Above the door is a hatch/cabinet thats only function seems to be to hide AV wires.

This cabinet squeeks like crazy when driving, so much so we jam t-shirts in it and then close it. The door is held up by a really poor latch that pops open easily.

I would like to use it for shoe storage, am hoping someone on the forum has already tackled this poor design.

Thanks!

BQ
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Old 01-14-2024, 05:11 PM   #2
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It is a location for a Sat TV receiver or DVD Player, there is a HDMI cable run there from the main TV and Coaxes run there. There is a 120V outlet there, too. If I remember right the plate with the power on button to send power to the TV antenna's amplifier is in there too.

My experience with things that squeak or make noise on my Winnebago is that you can figure out what is moving and or hitting and use some felt pads to eliminate the movement / touching to stop it.

Don't know what to say about the latch, Mine is a 2015 and Winnebago had not yet started doing that wacky hatch above the door yet in 2015.
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Old 01-15-2024, 01:43 AM   #3
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I haven't had any noise issues from mine but I can not get it to latch anymore. All that holds it up is the extra safety to the right side. Any advice would be appreciated...

Regarding noise in that area I did have some from the battery cover on the steps right in that area but nothing from the A/V cabinet.
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Old 01-15-2024, 11:09 AM   #4
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Regarding the latch, I have a 2017 29ve; you can reach up in there and adjust it. If I recall, two Philips screws are holding onto the "latching" mechanism where the cable release is, you have to adjust in or out to get a tighter close.

Not easy, and I have to use my phone's flashlight to reach in there to find the screws.

I, too, would like to use that area if anyone figures it out.
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Old 01-15-2024, 12:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLUSoCal View Post
Regarding the latch, I have a 2017 29ve; you can reach up in there and adjust it. If I recall, two Philips screws are holding onto the "latching" mechanism where the cable release is, you have to adjust in or out to get a tighter close.

Not easy, and I have to use my phone's flashlight to reach in there to find the screws.

I, too, would like to use that area if anyone figures it out.
Could you use some velcro and glue it and staple it to stay there?
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Old 01-15-2024, 02:07 PM   #6
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Helped squeaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quandt View Post
Howdy

We have a 20' Sunstar 27PE. Above the door is a hatch/cabinet thats only function seems to be to hide AV wires.

This cabinet squeeks like crazy when driving, so much so we jam t-shirts in it and then close it. The door is held up by a really poor latch that pops open easily.

I would like to use it for shoe storage, am hoping someone on the forum has already tackled this poor design.

Thanks!

BQ
I've got the 29VE with a similar cabinet above the door. I found on my unit that the squeaks were coming from the option blank covers where the DVD or Sat units would go. I took them off and put foam rubber weather stripping on the edges and reinstalled them. That helped a lot. I also put some towels between the metal covers on the screen door and the main door to quiet that rattle. I still have some squeaks, but it's better.

I'm not having any problems with the latch, sorry, no help there.

Ed
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Old 01-15-2024, 04:41 PM   #7
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In my Vista 27N a lot of the creaking noise comes from the screen door / main door boundary, upper corner area and I have placed stacked felt pads between the screen and main door and a felt pad between the screen door and the door frame. That helped a lot. I wrap a piece of black electric tape around the latch post as some of the noise seemed to be from the door latch moving metal to metal on that door frame latch post. The black tape does not last long I have to replace it pretty much before every driving trip.

I also got some noise from the long slideout next to the door, the slideout would creep out slightly in particular on rough pavement (the Lippert motor "locks" would not hold solidly).
The noise would start after the slide had creeped out slightly.

I made slide lock blocks out of 2x4 material that I put right above the bottom slide rail and and right below the top slide rail, they are held in place with large squares of velcro on the slide box wall and on the back side of the 2x4 blocks.
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