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Old 08-08-2013, 03:07 PM   #21
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What is Geo Method?
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:44 PM   #22
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What is Geo Method?
https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/

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Old 08-10-2013, 06:21 AM   #23
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I can see that this thread is going nowhere. See yea around!

Rick
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:48 PM   #24
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All, so far I have tried dawny fabric softner (per recommendation of a Winnebagotechnician). Have used baking soda.have used gray tank treatment from Walmart and RV place. Have left the gray to fill before dumping. The only thing i haven't used is water softener (recommended by geo method). Nothing has worked. We have also started to wipe all dishes clean before washing them. We use lots of detergent when washing dishes to make sure all is clean. Nothing has worked. Gray still shows 2/3 full. I have an appointment on Sept 3 to take the MH for some work. I will have them to check this and will update.
Our coach is new and we have only started camping a month or so. We only use olive oil for cooking.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #25
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Malfunctioning black and grey tank gauges are a common problem.
Even though I keep my tanks clean my black tank gauge often reads 1/3rd when the tank is empty, (my gray not do much).
IMO, far more tank gauges do not work accurately "all the time".. than do.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:56 PM   #26
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My grey read 2/3rds, even with the wires disconnected from the tank sensors. I found a bad IC on the display board. Don't know where I got it, but I replaced it with one I had in my spare IC bin.
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:52 AM   #27
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My grey read 2/3rds, even with the wires disconnected from the tank sensors. I found a bad IC on the display board. Don't know where I got it, but I replaced it with one I had in my spare IC bin.
That's interesting. .....what is an IC ?
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:51 AM   #28
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Integrated Circuit. In my case it was a 14 pin. Sorry, meant to explain that, but it slipped my mind at the time.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:54 PM   #29
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I know it's over a month since you posted this problem. Wondering if it has been rectified? Our new fifth wheel is in for warranty work right now. Our kitchen grey tank has the exact issue as yours, and it is one of the matters being addressed. After we pick it up (hopefully tomorrow) we will share what was done to correct it.
We have been traveling in it full time since June 12; on an extended adventure since my husband retired in March!! I do a lot cooking but I'm also very careful about wiping cookware and dishes before washing with Dawn. So, we shall see....
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:01 PM   #30
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If your coach is still under warranty let the dealer check it out before you try your own remidies
Best advice yet! My '11 Meridian 40U system is working like a charm. Yours should be too. If the dealer can't fix the problem make an appointment with Forest City and get there ASAP. If they can't fix it it ain't broke.
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Old 11-19-2013, 10:52 AM   #31
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Hi all, after all this time...and finally the problem was fixed. I was running out of Warranty but Winnebago covered it. I thin the dealer changed the sensors. They had to call Winnebago to fix the issue.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:35 AM   #32
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Hi all, after all this time...and finally the problem was fixed. I was running out of Warranty but Winnebago covered it. I thin the dealer changed the sensors. They had to call Winnebago to fix the issue.
If it is made it WILL break. When is the question. Glad to hear that your problem is solved.

I have been finding quality issues within my coach. We just got it in May so we are still discovering. Most of them I have fixed on my own. What I have been doing is writing Winnebago with the problem and the fix. I also tell them about the many great features and how satisfied we are with them. I have received a couple of calls from them inquiring for clarity and more detail on the problems. I feel that they are telling me that they are concerned about quality and improving upon quality control.

If you have any issues or questions call the factory support folks. If you have not joined WIT do so now, then plan a trip to the factory and take the tour. Do the same with chassis manufacture. We just toured Freightliner Custom Chassis in Gaffney, SC. We belong to the Freightliner club also. The club memberships often gives you discounts. The WIT Grand National Rally is supposed to be very informative and fun. We have not had a chance to get to one yet.

irv2 is a great forum because we each truly want to help one another. Thanks for sharing your problem and fix with us.

Happy and many long and lovely trails.
Rick
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:22 AM   #33
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I read the article on GEO, firstly let me say the product Calgon is used in dishwashers,and for bathing and an alternative to also make water soft is washing soda OR Borax, they are both the same, one is made by Arm and Hammer and the other by Borax co. I use this in my washing all the time as you need less detergent and it works more efficiently. Now I ALWAYS rinse with vinegar in the rinse, it removes all leftover soap in the wash and you NEVER have to use fabric softeners, (they make the towels slick and they do not 'dry' you because they 'coat' the fibers and they no longer absorb. Your clothes will NOT smell like vinegar!
they will be easier to care for and last longer.

My intention is to use washing soda or Borax to keep odours down and vinegar to keep the sidewalls clean, (vinegar being a mild acid will make things 'squeaky clean' I will be more inclined to use the vinegar (1 or 2 cups) to keep it clear, it will do no harm to add a cup of the softener, but may be redundent as the vinegar will keep all systems go .. I also use vinegar for all drains followed by hot water after letting it sit for about 1/2 hour in the drains at the S&B I have never had a drain problem, sometimes when I think of it I add a cup of vinegar to the toilet tank at night and it helps keep that clean too!
Just my 2 cent worth.
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Old 11-20-2013, 10:31 AM   #34
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If it is made it WILL break. When is the question. Glad to hear that your problem is solved. I have been finding quality issues within my coach. We just got it in May so we are still discovering. Most of them I have fixed on my own. What I have been doing is writing Winnebago with the problem and the fix. I also tell them about the many great features and how satisfied we are with them. I have received a couple of calls from them inquiring for clarity and more detail on the problems. I feel that they are telling me that they are concerned about quality and improving upon quality control. If you have any issues or questions call the factory support folks. If you have not joined WIT do so now, then plan a trip to the factory and take the tour. Do the same with chassis manufacture. We just toured Freightliner Custom Chassis in Gaffney, SC. We belong to the Freightliner club also. The club memberships often gives you discounts. The WIT Grand National Rally is supposed to be very informative and fun. We have not had a chance to get to one yet. irv2 is a great forum because we each truly want to help one another. Thanks for sharing your problem and fix with us. Happy and many long and lovely trails. Rick
The two issues i have not addressed is excess noise when turning on the electric heat and also the intermittent leveling jack not retracting and i have to reset the system. Have you had any issues with these. Thanks for your input.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:42 AM   #35
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The two issues i have not addressed is excess noise when turning on the electric heat and also the intermittent leveling jack not retracting and i have to reset the system. Have you had any issues with these. Thanks for your input.
Good questions and of much discussion on irv2.

I wrote to the heat pump folks about the noise. Their reply summed up is that Winnebago has caused the noise by the way the ceiling ducts are designed. If I can get sufficient heating or cooling from the back unit only, I will run it alone. The 2 front units sound like being in the tail of a jet next to the engines!

The jacks will be no great issue if you will follow the instructions in the manual. Let me summarize: Leave your air ride full when doing this procedure. Your jacks will extend further and you can get to them easier.

Have ready WD40 and a soft rag. Extend the jacks. Spray each one with the WD40 and spray the area where the jack comes out of the housing. Wipe the jacks down with the cloth to clean them. You should be good to go.

DO NOT SPRAY THE JACK WITH SILICON LUBRICANTS. This is per HWH.

I use 2 4x4 pieces about 16 or 18 inches long, side by side under each pad. This stabilizes the ground and helps the jacks extend correctly if the ground is un-level beyond the jack range. You many need a step to get out of the coach but there is no harm having the front wheels off the ground. (A great debate my start with this statement) I put screw eyes in the ends of the blocks and paired them with rope. They are easier to retrieve. I store them in the compartment next to the door where the fresh water tank is located. The step goes there too.

Hope all this helps. Happy trails.

Rick
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:14 PM   #36
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Good questions and of much discussion on irv2. I wrote to the heat pump folks about the noise. Their reply summed up is that Winnebago has caused the noise by the way the ceiling ducts are designed. If I can get sufficient heating or cooling from the back unit only, I will run it alone. The 2 front units sound like being in the tail of a jet next to the engines! The jacks will be no great issue if you will follow the instructions in the manual. Let me summarize: Leave your air ride full when doing this procedure. Your jacks will extend further and you can get to them easier. Have ready WD40 and a soft rag. Extend the jacks. Spray each one with the WD40 and spray the area where the jack comes out of the housing. Wipe the jacks down with the cloth to clean them. You should be good to go. DO NOT SPRAY THE JACK WITH SILICON LUBRICANTS. This is per HWH. I use 2 4x4 pieces about 16 or 18 inches long, side by side under each pad. This stabilizes the ground and helps the jacks extend correctly if the ground is un-level beyond the jack range. You many need a step to get out of the coach but there is no harm having the front wheels off the ground. (A great debate my start with this statement) I put screw eyes in the ends of the blocks and paired them with rope. They are easier to retrieve. I store them in the compartment next to the door where the fresh water tank is located. The step goes there too. Hope all this helps. Happy trails. Rick
Great info...thanks
Winnebago told us that the installation of the air conditioner has something to do with noise. They said Coleman is fixing some units with better installation. We took our unit in and took about a month (we were not using our unit then so it wasnt too inconvenient). Final word was the installation was correct on our unit. Some of the early 2013 models needed reinstalation. The final word is the noise is part of this and your approach is the best..use the unit in the back while infront and use front while in the back to be away from noise. In winter my approach is also using the gas instead of electric (heat pump). In summer previous approach is the only solution. Saga continues.....living in a car has its issues...
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:45 AM   #37
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Great info...thanks
Winnebago told us that the installation of the air conditioner has something to do with noise. They said Coleman is fixing some units with better installation. We took our unit in and took about a month (we were not using our unit then so it wasnt too inconvenient). Final word was the installation was correct on our unit. Some of the early 2013 models needed reinstalation. The final word is the noise is part of this and your approach is the best..use the unit in the back while infront and use front while in the back to be away from noise. In winter my approach is also using the gas instead of electric (heat pump). In summer previous approach is the only solution. Saga continues.....living in a car has its issues...
The problem is not Coleman. They have improved the fan and insulation. The insulation is for outside noise mostly.

Winnebago has a design problem and has not found a way around it. So, they don't have a problem(?). Blaming someone else for your mistakes is politically correct these days.

The air from the front AC units hits the ceiling at full force, two units at the same time. The back AC unit has walls under it to stiffen the roof and dissipate the wind and vibration noise better. I think some sort of baffling or airflow deflectors need to be designed. I think we are stuck with what we have.
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Old 11-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #38
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This was never explained to me this clearly...please let me know if you discover an improved approach to using this with less noise.

Is there any way that I can improve the shower pressure. I have changed and uaed many shower heads. Ut still low pressure. Can I remove the vacume breaker? Is it affecting the pressure?

Thanks for allt he good info.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:11 PM   #39
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The two issues i have not addressed is excess noise when turning on the electric heat and also the intermittent leveling jack not retracting and i have to reset the system. Have you had any issues with these. Thanks for your input.
There is a service bullitin on the leveling jacks if they fail to retract completely in the "Auto Retract" position. The problem is they time out & due to the rear jacks being larger than the front or standard jacks they need a longer time to retract. Check with your dealer & if they don't help you call the help line for the jack system listed in your manuals. I had mine replaced on the first trip the day after I left the dealership.
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:24 PM   #40
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Good questions and of much discussion on irv2.


Have ready WD40 and a soft rag. Extend the jacks. Spray each one with the WD40 and spray the area where the jack comes out of the housing. Wipe the jacks down with the cloth to clean them. You should be good to go.

DO NOT SPRAY THE JACK WITH SILICON LUBRICANTS. This is per HWH.



Rick
Our jacks are Power Gear and they say to use only silicon and not WD40.....
Ours also have grease fittings..
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