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Old 06-21-2022, 09:12 AM   #1
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Exclamation 2003 Journey DL need help with rear slide

We are at a loss to figure out why the rear slide won't retract. We have checked the switch against the front slide (which does work, as well as the jacks, HWH) When we press the switch, nothing. We have replaced the hydraulic relay switch and ground wires. Checked the fuses under the dash and all are good. I'm not sure where else to look. We can push the front switch and the rear switch at the same time and the slide will come in so we know it is getting power. HELP! I hope someone knows what else we can try. by the way we have brand new engine batteries. Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:54 PM   #2
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You wrote: "We can push the front switch and the rear switch at the same time and the slide will come in so we know it is getting power."

In order for a slide to operate, the switching system needs to activate the hydraulic pump and also activate the solenoid valves on the pump specific to the slide it operates. Each slide has two, an extend solenoid and a retract solenoid. My guess is when you only use the rear switch, the pump isn't being activated and you don't hear the pump running. When you press both switches, the slide works, which tells me the rear switch is activating the rear solenoid valves while the front switch is activating the pump (along with its solenoid valves.

What I don't know is how much of this dual activation function happens at the switch or on the control board.

You might want to pull the switch out of the wall and see if it connects to the wiring via a plug of some sort rather than individual, soldered connections. If so, you could interchange the front and rear switches and see if the problem moves with the switch. If so, you need a new switch. It's a good idea to gently connect and disconnect the plug a few times to make sure there's not a corrosion problem.

If the problem is at the control board, there's likely to be a plug associated with the rear switch. It could have a corrosion issue as well.

These wiring diagrams are hard to read but they may help you sort things out. I took a look at the "Body 12V Wiring Diagram for a two 2003 Journey models and both showed a connector at the bottom of page 8 that is noted as "Connects to Rear Slide Out Switch". Whether this connector is located at the switch or not isn't clear. If it is, interchanging the two switches should be simple.

Here's a link to the 2003 wiring diagrams from Winnebago, you'll have to select the diagram applicable to your particular model:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ram/Wiring.htm

Also, here's a link to some info from HWH:

https://www.hwhcorp.com/winnebago2003_diagrams.html

Tech Support, Manuals, Online Schools – General Information – HWH® Corporation

I hope this helps.
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Old 06-21-2022, 02:32 PM   #3
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Hi Bob, I'm new here, but thanks for your info. We did change out the back switch to the front slide and it worked fine, so we know it is not a switch issue. It's just not getting power. I was wondering if there is a fuse panel that I'm not aware of. LOL
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Old 06-21-2022, 04:07 PM   #4
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Can you identify your exact model code for us? These are your choices for the 2003 Journey/Journey DL.

WKP32T
WKP34H
WKP36C
WKP36L
WKP32TD
WKP34HD
WKP36GD
WKP36LD
WKP39QD
WKP39WD

This should be on the plate inside your drivers door:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...r's%20door.
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Old 06-21-2022, 05:33 PM   #5
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Bob has done an excellent start on getting the correct info from the drawings , so I might throw in some more. Finding the switch can be the first trek to get past on finding info for this!

But I might ask a question first as I'm not looking at the RV??
Does rear slideout switch say you have a switch for a slide in the rear or does it mean you have a front and back switch?
I think you have switches at one point, one for front slide and one for rear slide? Check me to be sure I'm getting the right idea!

But some info to help sort the wiring will get you started,maybe.
When pulling the switches, look along the sides of the wiring for a code stamped as this example.


if you find that code, trying using this chart to tell the "from" and "to" of each wire.

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ical_guide.pdf

Got to go for now but will get more info to you in a bit?? Sorry!
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:15 PM   #6
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Just a comment until we get more information. I doubt it's a fuse. The HWH diagrams I've seen only show one master fuse for the pump located in an HWH fuse box, which makes sense. Since the front slide works, that fuse has to be OK.

Your motorhome has a 12V breaker panel which is likely located under your refrigerator. I don't know what breakers it has, but, if it has any for your slides, it, too, is likely to be a single breaker.

I think, given the info we have, that the most likely fault is a bad, corroded or loose connector, of which there could be several. One is at the switch, and one is at the control board plus at least one in between. We need your coach's model # to determine how many and where they are. Hopefully they're easily accessible. Do you have and do you know how to use a multimeter (or do you know someone who does)?
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Old 06-21-2022, 06:36 PM   #7
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As I understand the switch question, I "believe" this will be the info to check that the wiring at that switch is correct.

Step one to follow the drawings is to get the right sheet or page numbering down. When you look at the drawings on a computer, there will be a page number at the top which is assigned by the computer. This is handy for us speaking of where to look but once you get into the drawing and want to follow a wire from one sheet of the drawings to the next sheet, it uses a different system which is what Winnebago used when building the drawings.

Click these snips to get a better view of what I have marked?

Since drawings are too big to fit on any single sheet, they build them as if you were laying out pages side by side and assign sheet and frame numbers. On those sheet and frames, they place number and letters along the edges, something like older paper maps used. Sheet 1 frame 2 lays next to S1F3!

When a wire runs off the frame at the edge, we have to pick up the line on the frame which lies next inline? Or it may show a plug as this first snip that tells you the mating plug is on a different sheet and frame (like sheet 1 where A and 12 would cross! )

Note that the drawing gives you not only the wire id and which pin on that plug, but also the guage (16) and color of the wires ( yel)

Using the list to decode the wire ID, we can find the wires which work the slide as well as a brief idea of what that wire does and where it goes?
I marked the five wires which seem to fit for the slide movement.
It also tells us where that plug might be found (below lavatory!)

Sorry about the size of that info to swallow but it gives you a brief idea of where and what to look for in the search.
Hope that gets you going in the right direction!

BBM--extend
BBN --retract

CCY---bat.positive
CCZ switched bat pos.

DDA pump relay control
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobC View Post
Can you identify your exact model code for us? These are your choices for the 2003 Journey/Journey DL.

WKP32T
WKP34H
WKP36C
WKP36L
WKP32TD
WKP34HD
WKP36GD
WKP36LD
WKP39QD
WKP39WD

This should be on the plate inside your drivers door:

https://www.winnebago.com/owners/own...r's%20door.
Mine is the WKP39WD
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:28 PM   #9
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Wink Thanks for your help

Mine is the WKP39WD, thanks for all your help
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:35 PM   #10
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I'm not doing this work myself, I have a group of Navy young men helping me, so now we are just looking for some answers. I will show them this thread and hopefully they can make sense of it. I know that I was told there was a 12v fuse panel in the bedroom, which I can NOT find. We did check all the fuses that are under the dash and all are good. This is like looking for a needle in a haystack, but as they say with all RV's "It's always something", should be the slogan for the industry. Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 06-21-2022, 09:28 PM   #11
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I've looked at the drawings for your model and can point you in the right direction but won't have time to write a more complete response until tomorrow.
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Old 06-22-2022, 07:37 AM   #12
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With the new info, I also need to change the info I had given as it looks like one plug is under the frig instead of where I first thought!

Some guessing here that needs to be tested but this is what I think happens at the switch. This needs testing.

Pulling the plug off the back of the switch and looking at it from the end, you need to find which way to turn it by the shape of the plug or sometimes they put numbers on it to help.

Pins 1 and 2, I expect to find 12volt DC battery.
When the switch is pushed to extend, I think that battery is connected to pin 4 to move a solenoid and let the fluid flow to extend OR to pin 6 to do the same for the solenoid which retracts the slide.

But at the same time, I expect battery on pin 2 and it gets connected to 1 or 3 to power a relay. Both pin 1 and 3 are the same wire to the relay and it gets powered on retract or extend.

Since you have the switch out, I might suggest first making sure there is power on pin 5 without the switch pushed either way, then push the switch to extend just for a second and see if that power shows on 4 and pin 6 to tetract test my thinking.

If you find it shows on pin4 to extend and that works but doesn't show on 6 when you want to retract, you have the problem in your hand and need to check connections for corrosion or bad switch.

The problem is that they will need tofind a way to connect the meter on the connections from the back while the switch is plugged into these holes!
One way to do that is to use a small metal item like a wire on the end of the meter leads, pushed down into the insulation around the connections.

Point to keep in mind is if you do find power where expected, no need to look for the fuse or breaker!! But if not, defintely look for the breaker, but the power does also go through several other plugs on the way to the switch and those might be bad instead of right at the switch..

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Old 06-22-2022, 09:36 AM   #13
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Richard has a good suggestion. I'd add that it would be a good idea to measure all the voltages at the front slide out switch for reference, the pin numbers will be the same. In terms of checking all the connectors, you find them as follows:

OK, now that we have your model #, here's the link to the correct wiring diagram and the electrical guide with the wire codes:

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_142838.pdf

https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...ire_142838.pdf

In general, wires don't go bad in the middle of a run. The problem generally occurs at a connection or connector.

Start on page 7 of the wiring diagram. At the bottom, on the left side (at A30), there's a connector labeled "CONNECTS TO REAR SLIDE OUT SWITCH". This is where to start. You can ID the wire codes using the electrical guide. Note wire code DDA, this is listed as:

DDA / 16 YEL From: HWH WIRING (PUMP RELAY CONTROL) To:SLIDEOUT ROOM SWITCH (POSITIVE)

There are two of them, one on socket 1 and one on socket 2. They're paired with sockets 4 and 6, BBM and BBN:

BBM / 16 YEL From: SLIDEOUT ROOM SWITCH (ROOM TWO EXTEND) To: HWH WIRING (ROOM TWO EXTEND)

BBN / 16 YEL From: SLIDEOUT ROOM SWITCH (ROOM TWO RETRACT) To: HWH WIRING (ROOM TWO RETRACT)

There's one pair of sockets left with wires, sockets 2 and 5, containing wires CCY and CCZ.

CCY / 16 YEL From: HWH WIRING (BATTERY POWER) To: SLIDEOUT ROOM SWITCH (POSITIVE)
CCZ / 16 YEL From: HWH WIRING (SWITCHED BATTERY POWER) To: SLIDEOUT ROOM #1 SWITCH (POSITIVE)

Now, look just to the right (at A29), you'll see a larger socket labeled CONNECTS TO WIRE ASM CHASSIS. It's noted as being located below the refrigerator. It's also noted as being displayed on sheet 1, location A12.

You'll need to locate and make sure this socket is firmly connected. I read in another thread that a poster found this to be the problem. I'd connect and disconnect it a couple of times to make sure there's no corrosion. If the slide works now, you've found the problem. If not, go to sheet 1, A12 which is on page 3. This shows the next connector in line as being located below the lavatory. Again, make sure it's solidly connected, etc.

It's a matter of following the trail checking each connector in line.
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Old 06-26-2022, 05:34 PM   #14
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Just for curiosity have you checked the solinods on the pump? Every time part of my HWH system didn't work I was able to trace it to the solinods. The HWH system powers your jacks as well as the slide outs.

John
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Old 06-26-2022, 06:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyk View Post
Just for curiosity have you checked the solinods on the pump? Every time part of my HWH system didn't work I was able to trace it to the solinods. The HWH system powers your jacks as well as the slide outs.

John
The solenoids have been eliminated as the problem. The slide works when both the front and rear switches are activated but not via the rear switch alone. This means that, when both are activated, the rear the rear solenoids are being activated by the rear switch, while the pump is activated due to the front switch being activated. If the rear solenoids were bad, this wouldn't work.

Additionally, both switches operate properly in the front location, eliminating the rear switch as the issue. The problem clearly lies in the circuitry between the rear switch and the pump.
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Old 06-26-2022, 07:17 PM   #16
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These conversations always get into all sorts of intense electrical troubleshooting, and replacing various components, only to result in the discovery that there was a bad ground somewhere..... Just sayin......
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Old 06-26-2022, 07:19 PM   #17
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12v panel

I have the 39QD and my 12V panel is behind an upholstered panel at foot of the bed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailorgal View Post
I'm not doing this work myself, I have a group of Navy young men helping me, so now we are just looking for some answers. I will show them this thread and hopefully they can make sense of it. I know that I was told there was a 12v fuse panel in the bedroom, which I can NOT find. We did check all the fuses that are under the dash and all are good. This is like looking for a needle in a haystack, but as they say with all RV's "It's always something", should be the slogan for the industry. Thanks again for all your help.
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Old 06-27-2022, 04:14 AM   #18
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I have an issue with my rear slide on my 36gd, when the engine battery is a little low from sitting for a duration of time, it dont want to work. I turn the key on and it will extend-retract.
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:54 AM   #19
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I have a 2003 Journey that had the same problem. Found out the ground goes thru the parking brake switch. Brakes have to be set for the slides to work. My front slide would work as yours does. I cleaned the terminals & replaced the solenoid ( broke old one removing wires - rusted. ). No problems since. I added a separate toggle switch to ground just in case but haven't had to use it. Try activating the parking brake a few times. That may do it.
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Old 06-27-2022, 10:41 AM   #20
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I have a 2003 Journey that had the same problem. Found out the ground goes thru the parking brake switch. Brakes have to be set for the slides to work. My front slide would work as yours does. I cleaned the terminals & replaced the solenoid ( broke old one removing wires - rusted. ). No problems since. I added a separate toggle switch to ground just in case but haven't had to use it. Try activating the parking brake a few times. That may do it.
It's strange that this would only affect the front slide.
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